Where is the last 8000m virgin peak?

1964 In the spring, China mountaineers who had climbed Mount Everest from the northern slope took the lead in teaming up at the foot of Mashan Mountain in Xixia State, determined to conquer this mountain, which was unfamiliar to people all over the world.

China climbers made very strict safety protection measures before climbing Mashan Mountain in Xisha State. The goal of China mountaineers is not only to conquer the last Mount Everest, but also to create a safe model for world mountaineering.

Xixiabangma Peak is a giant peak covered with snow and ice. Almost three-quarters of the routes are in snow and ice areas, and about half of them are steep slopes. In view of this situation, the mountaineering community in China has organized mountaineers from all over the country to carry out systematic training in Tianshan Mountain, a snowy mountain.

This is an extremely hard training. To practice protection techniques, we must first set some dangers: the players who are marching on the ice slope suddenly fall down; The player who is crossing the crack suddenly falls into the bottomless pit ... these situations are unpredictable by all protectors except the danger maker. After a day's practice, some people fell black and blue, and some people got blood on their hands by climbing ropes.

Another feature of Mount Xixiabang is its long climbing route, with a total length of 36 kilometers, which is much longer than the route of Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world. Coupled with strong winds and cold, it is impossible to adapt without enough physical strength. In order to better combine the special events and gain time, the China mountaineering team went to the mountain city of Chongqing in September, 1963, and began a four-month intensive quality training. The key point is to improve the load-bearing strength of athletes' shoulders, back and waist, and enhance the endurance of lower limbs and the tension and grip strength of upper limbs. In actual mountaineering, the athletes' negative weight is 15 ~ 24 kg, but in training, they often carry 3 1 kg stones and March for six or seven days and six hours every day. In order to adapt to the plateau hypoxia environment, underwater breath-holding and snorkeling have been added to the training program. The practice of finger strength has also developed from holding a small ball and doing pull-ups at any time to hanging the weight of the body and backpack on the brick seam of the building with your fingers and competing for a long time.

forge ahead

If you want to find the way to climb Mashan in Xisha State from data and maps, it's in vain, because people knew nothing about Mashan in Xisha State at that time. Where is the safe way to the summit between the vast ice eaves and snow ridges and in front of the towering cliffs? Before the large-scale team of China mountaineering team entered Mashan in Shabang, the hard struggle to find the climbing route had already begun. It was in the cold winter on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, and the first reconnaissance team of the first mountaineering reconnaissance team in China, led by mountaineer Liu Lianman, set out for Mount Ma in Xixiabang. They visited many herders and hunters in mountainous areas, traveled all over the southeast and northwest of Giant Peak, and made a preliminary observation on the mountain situation and topographic characteristics.

Then, the second reconnaissance team climbed a bald mountain with an altitude of 6000 meters opposite Xifeng. Looking west from here, it found a glacier with a length of 15 km in its valley, which is probably a natural climbing route. Then go up along this glacier and reach the ice tower area at an altitude of 5800 meters. They climbed the ice and snow platform in the northwest of Mashan, Xixia state, crossed a wide crack, stepped on more than a foot of snow and reached the ice and snow platform at an altitude of 6500 meters. This time, they found a possible summit route from the giant telescope.

Subsequently, the third reconnaissance team headed by climber Yan conducted reconnaissance and finally determined the mountaineering route. This time, however, they encountered a very bad climate, with a cold wind blowing from early morning until late at night. Bursts of snow, like a sharp sword cutting. Roads are dangerous and unpredictable. Sometimes the ice is hard and sometimes the snow is loose. After many hardships, the team members finally crossed the ice gallery and climbed the steep ice slope, and finally climbed to an altitude of 7 160 meters. It's only more than 800 meters from here to the top of the mountain.

In this way, a possible climbing route connecting Mabeipo in Xisha State appears on the planning map of the base camp.

After the route is roughly determined, the next task is transportation and camp building.

According to the plan in advance, the mountaineer Shi Jing first led a transport team to move upwards. Their task is to complete the construction and material transportation of the camp below 6900 meters above sea level in two marches to prepare for the general attack in the future.

Shi Jing and other climbers first set up camp 1 at an altitude of 5300 meters. The next day, they continued to climb a mountain bend and reached the lateral moraine (a substance composed of gravel and soil on both sides of the glacier) of Ye Bo Kangjiale Glacier. After that, the road suddenly became extremely dangerous. On the left is a valley dozens of feet deep, with strange peaks and rocks and towering snow towers, like a forest of ice and snow. If anything goes wrong, you will sneak into this "forest" and be shattered; On the right is a steep rock slope, and the boulders left by glacier movement are uneven, which makes climbers have to make a detour.

The first step of the mountaineering mission was successfully completed, but it was only the beginning of all actions to conquer Mashan in Xishabang.

At the base camp, Xu Jing, the captain of the mountaineering team and a famous mountaineer, sat in front of a huge weather map, recording the main points one by one in his notebook, lost in thought.

It's already April 14. According to the plan, an alpine material transport team is on standby at Camp 2 at an altitude of 5,800 meters. As soon as the weather is fine, they immediately climbed to the area above 7000 meters above sea level, and set up the fifth mountain camp and the last "assault camp" at 7500 meters and 7700 meters above sea level respectively to create conditions for the final victory. At present, all the symbols and marks on the weather map clearly show that there will be good weather suitable for mountain climbing in two days.

Many mountain climbing experiences tell Xu Jing that we must make good use of the weather when we are active in areas above 7000 meters above sea level. Therefore, according to the weather forecast, the transport team must set out immediately and board the No.4 mountain camp at an altitude of 6900 meters to stand by and watch. Unfortunately, at this critical moment, the wireless telegraph contact with the convoy was interrupted.

We can't wait any longer For the smooth progress of the whole mountaineering, we must send someone to convey the order to the transport team in Camp 2 as soon as possible.

13: 03, Tibetan players Lausanne Qing and Basangjiabu were ordered to start climbing to Camp 2. The journey is tortuous and the road is bumpy. Their heads began to swell and their legs became sore and numb. However, in order to send the order to Ding in time, they raced against time and completed the command task in only 4 hours.

On the rocky slope in front of Camp No.2, Feng Wang, deputy political commissar of the mountaineering team, immediately held a meeting to convey the marching orders and make careful arrangements. 18, 15, this 40-person transport team set out for the world of ice and snow. It is snowing heavily, and the visibility is getting lower and lower as dusk approaches. Soon, the players couldn't even see their footprints clearly. When the team climbed the steep slope at an altitude of 6000 meters, the wind gradually stopped, but it snowed even harder. There is no moonlight, no starlight, and only a little light from the climber's flashlight in the dense night. Direction, slope and terrain features are all hidden in the endless darkness that flashlights can't shoot. Forty warriors tied knots, one by one, step by step, and moved forward carefully under the touch of ice picks and feet.

Suddenly, a light flashed from people's feet. Then, the steel tip of the ice cone spewed a dazzling flame. Every time you stroke your hand, your fingers will show color, your mouth will open, and even your breathing will turn white with terror. Strange light flashes in the night sky, unpredictable and dizzy. This is a common electrostatic phenomenon on high mountains. Although it is dangerous, fear is useless.

At 0: 00 on April 15, Beijing time, the motorcade reached the top of the snow slope. Topographically, this is the third mountain camp at an altitude of 6300 meters. Due to the interference of darkness and heavy snow, the team members could not find the tent in Camp Three. At this time, the whirlwind began to hit, and the temperature dropped to MINUS 20℃. Wang Fengtong believes that if we camp here, casualties are likely to occur. So, he decided to return to Camp No.2 overnight and go out after dawn.

On April 20, the hard-working team members finally crossed the narrow ice and snow corridor and climbed the northeast ridge above 7000 meters above sea level. They caught a rare sunny day, but the road here is more difficult than any other section. On their right, there is a dangerous ridge, on the left is a snow slope tens of feet high leading to the foothills, and in the middle is a "turtle back" with a slope of 40. The steep rocks are covered with little snow, rolling stones and loose snow, which makes them in danger of slipping every step.

At an altitude of 7400 meters, a huge dangerous rock blocked their way. Yan, an excellent mountaineer, tried to climb to the top of the rock and fixed a nylon rope for the brigade to pass through. He reached into the crack in the rock and stepped on the edge of the rock to move up bit by bit. However, he climbed four times in a row and fell down, making his limbs weak and sore all over. Yan Liang Dong looked at the companion behind him, gritted his teeth and climbed for the fifth time. This time, the stubborn dangerous rock was finally trampled by him. They succeeded in overcoming difficulties and won.

After 12 hours of fighting, all 40 team members reached an altitude of 7500 meters and established the No.5 mountain camp.

On April 2 1 day, 30 team members set out from the newly established No.5 alpine camp and continued to carry forward with heavy loads. In front of them, the huge ice collapse area sparkled, and the continuous pointed cone icicles became an unattainable "knife mountain". With a slope of more than 50 degrees, the difficult road forced the team members to divide into two groups and take turns to dig out the ice steps ahead. In this process, mountaineer Liu Dayi led his team to show superhuman perseverance and ability. In many extremely difficult areas, they have paved the way with solid basic skills. Five hours later, all 30 players arrived near the ochre pagoda at an altitude of 7700 meters. After two hours of intense fighting, an assault battalion was finally established, which was the last "bridgehead" to attack Ma Feng in Hishabang.

Victory in the First World War

1at dawn on April 25, 964, an unpredictable dawn appeared in the eastern sky. In the light blue morning fog, people in China mountaineering base camp set up a high "out door" with pine and cypress branches.

In the morning 10, a commando team consisting of 6 Han climbers and 7 Tibetan climbers came to the alpine grassland outside the tent of the base camp. Under the leadership of captain Xu Jing, vice captain Zhang Junyan and deputy political commissar Wang Fuzhou, they solemnly swore in the face of the five-star red flag: "Cliffs and cliffs can't stop our progress, and snow can only make us March forward more courageously. For the honor of the party and for the motherland, we swear to put the five-star red flag on the peak! "

The commandos are still greeted by heavy snow and biting cold wind. The team members trudged nonstop for three days, crossed the Kangjiale Glacier in Ye Bo, broke through the steep "ice tower defense line" under the Xixiabangma Peak, and reached the No.3 mountain camp at an altitude of 6,300 meters. Then, they spent a terrible snowstorm night in a tent buried by ice and snow.

On may 1 day, the commando team finally reached the "assault camp" at an altitude of 7700 meters. This time, they met with good luck. The news from the base camp said: Tomorrow, that is, on the morning of May 2, it will be sunny and fine, which can give the peak a surprise.

Captain Xu Jing immediately convened an enlarged meeting of the branch committee. The meeting decided that on May 2, all commandos would get up at 4 o'clock and start a general attack on the summit at 6 o'clock.

It's almost time to start, and the team members walked out of the tent. They couldn't help shivering when the cold wind came at them. At this time, the sky is brighter and the route is clear. Everybody fasten your crampons, put on your backpacks and fasten your ropes. In the cold of MINUS 30℃, quietly wait for the captain's departure order.

At 6 o'clock, Xu Jing issued an order: "Now, let's brave the cold and March to the peak of 80 12 meters above sea level!"

The commando team consists of three rope groups, with excellent mountaineer Wu Zongyue as the pioneer. It was dark again, and the road was flickering, so everyone had to turn on the flashlight from time to time to light the road. On the steep and hard snow slope, the world of ice and snow is extremely quiet. Everyone supports each other and moves forward slowly.

When the team members reached an altitude of 7800 meters, a fish-belly white began to appear in the east. It's even colder, and everyone is shivering despite wearing high-quality down jackets. In the morning fog, shiny ice appeared under your feet, and the crampons made a harsh click. Gradually, a huge ice slope stopped in front of them. Above the ice slope, it was the edge of a ridge, and below it was a canyon dozens of feet deep. The inclination of the ice slope is above 50. Commandos must cross the ice slope.

Due to the large number of people passing by, the temporary ice steps are gradually defective. Wang Fuzhou, deputy political commissar, walked halfway, suddenly slipped and fell.

"protection!" Experienced Wang Fuzhou did not panic because of unexpected events, but sent a signal very calmly and immediately began to save himself. When Wang Fuzhou was rolling for about 20 meters, he suddenly felt that the climbing rope tied to him suddenly shook and he was pulled. Wang Fuzhou rested for a while and began to climb again.

The marching team is getting slower and slower, and with the increase of height, every step becomes more difficult. The strong sunshine and the snow and ice complement each other. Although the climbers are wearing sunglasses, they still feel the dazzling golden light. They were sweating and panting, as if they had exhausted all their strength. The team members passed through a huge ice waterfall area and began to climb a hard and smooth ice slope. Severe hypoxia has become the team members' number one enemy. Their weak bodies are undergoing unprecedented tests under harsh terrain conditions. When they finally climbed the ice slope and entered the waist-deep snow ridge, they could hardly move.

"the peak! Peak! "

Captain Xu Jing's shouts of surprise came from the ridge, which was tantamount to a stimulant for the players behind him. Everyone suddenly felt energetic and stepped up. This "spire" that attracted their attention dozens of miles away disappeared. Now, what appears in front of them is only a slightly protruding snow bag.

The sun has risen, and the high-altitude wind speed has increased to more than 25 meters per second, which makes people breathless and unstable. However, the players encouraged each other and moved on. They bypassed a mushroom-shaped cornice and walked over a snowy ridge. The area under your feet is getting smaller and smaller, but the world in front of you is getting wider and wider. 10 The climbers filed up and reached the top of a flat and slightly raised triangular snow slope. Here, it is the top of Xixiabangma Peak at an altitude of 80 12 meters.

Captain Xu unexpectedly took out his walkie-talkie against the fierce high-altitude wind and reported to the base camp: "10 team members successfully climbed to the top of Mafeng in Xixia State on May 2, Beijing time 10: 20, 1964." The climbers were ecstatic. They unfurled a bright five-star red flag and let this flag representing the great China dance in the cold wind. ...

China, China, won the last 8000m! This news, together with the winners' names of 10-Xu Jing, Zhang Junyan, Wang Fuzhou, Wu Zongyue, Chen San, Duo Ji, Mima Tashi, Cheng and Duo Ji, crossed Qian Shan and spread all over the world.

With careful investigation and high teamwork, the China mountaineering team successfully climbed Mount Xixiabang, setting a safety model for mountaineering in the world and drawing a beautiful end to the "golden age" of Himalaya.

Not only that, China filmmakers also filmed a complete documentary "Exploring the Mystery of Mashan Mountain in Xishabang", which vividly and intuitively showed the people of the world the 8000m peak of the Himalayas.

Through field survey, surveyors accurately calculated that the elevation of Mashan Mountain in Xixiabang is 8012m, instead of 8013m, which was used internationally in the past. The difference of one meter is obtained by Chinese scientists through hardships and is an important achievement of surveying and mapping work in China.

The victory of climbing Mount Xishabang and the achievements of a large number of scientific investigations have made China people occupy an important position in the world mountaineering history.

Accurate determination of the height of Mount Everest for the first time

After the 1960s, the level of mountaineering in the world has been greatly improved. More and more mountaineering teams take Mount Everest as their biggest goal, and the foothills of Mount Everest have not been ignored, but have become more lively.

After the success of the older generation of mountaineers, the younger generation of explorers are eager to prove that they are "shine on you is better than blue".

In order to March to the highest peak in the world again, the China mountaineering team has made preparations for one year, including reconnaissance routes, selection and training of team members, and production of a series of food and equipment.

This time, the route taken by the China mountaineering team is still the northeast ridge route. 1975 at the end of February, members of the China Everest mountaineering team left Beijing in batches with all kinds of equipment and food and came to the foot of the northern slope of Mount Everest.

After investigation, it is found that the situation of Mount Qomolangma has changed greatly compared with that of 15 years ago-the original Rongbu Temple is now in ruins. Wild horses and sheep used to haunt here, but now they are almost extinct. The most surprising thing is that the natural barrier north depression has also changed its scenery, which is steeper than before. Nature used ice and snow to transform the depression in the north into a crystal clear steep slope of ice and snow. At an altitude of 6800 meters, there are huge ice cubes that collapsed not long ago. In the area of 6900 meters, an ice wall and criss-crossing ice cracks reach the top of the northern depression.

In view of these new situations, the headquarters of the China Mountaineering Team decided to send a reconnaissance road-building team composed of more than a dozen coaches and young players for the first adaptive March, and went to North for reconnaissance road-building.

At noon on March 2 1, the reconnaissance road construction team camped in the vast ice and snow at the foot of Aobei at an altitude of 6600 meters. The next day, the team members set out, chiseling steps on the ice slope step by step in the cold of MINUS 20℃. Halfway through the project, everyone found that it was not suitable for the brigade to March, so they resolutely gave up the road that had been basically opened and found another breakthrough.

Due to continuous high-intensity work under the condition of hypoxia at high altitude, the players' physical strength is extremely consumed. A few hours later, when they finally reached the zigzag road with a height of 6800 meters, a Tibetan player named Basang Tsering fell into a bottomless ice crack. However, the alert and calm Basang Tsering did not panic. He calmly pressed his back and feet against the two walls of the crack and firmly grasped the rope, which gave his companions time to come to the rescue and avoided a vicious accident.

Reconnaissance and road construction teams set up metal ladders, inserted road signs, and climbed almost vertical ice walls in the cold wind and heavy snow at MINUS 30℃. They finally reached the northern depression.

In late April, the mountaineering team decided to take advantage of the fine weather at the end of April to March for the fourth time and assault the peak. This time, the China mountaineering team sent two commandos, starting from the base camp on 24th and 26th respectively.

On the 28th, when the first commando team climbed to the 7400-meter tuyere of Obey, it suddenly encountered heavy snow and strong wind above 10. In order to avoid casualties, the base camp ordered two commandos to stop the assault immediately and evacuate to the 6500-meter camp for standby.

Three days later, the weather improved and the two commandos began to push up again. On May 4th and 5th, 33 male players and 7 female players arrived at the camp at an altitude of 8200m. During the March, 42-year-old Wu Zongyue, deputy political commissar of China mountaineering team and a famous mountaineer, was obviously exhausted. As the leader of the commando team, this mountaineering hero who once made great achievements in Mount Everest and Everest brought a movie camera, a camera and a flare gun more than others. In order to make an action plan, he stayed up all night in the camp at an altitude of 6000 meters. In the gale of 7 or 8, he often got up, and the severe mountain reaction exhausted him. However, he insisted. He kept holding a camera and filmed the climbing of the team members.

After arriving at the 8,200-meter camp, Wu Zongyue, regardless of rest, lit the gas stove and made soup for the team members, while encouraging the female team members to persevere and strive to create a world women's mountaineering record. On May 5th, Wu Zongyue's heart beat more than 200 times per minute, but he still insisted on walking at the front of the team. Wu Zongyue left the knot group to take photos at the back of the team in order to shoot the climbing shots of the female players. Just then, he suddenly fell down and fell into a deep valley.

A few hours later, the companions found backpacks, ice cones, oxygen bottles and cameras at an altitude of 8,500 meters. There were traces of falling objects on the cliff next to the backpack. ...

Wu Zongyue disappeared from sight. He is dead.

With great sadness, the team members spent a silent night in the 8600-meter camp.

On May 6th, a gale of magnitude 10 was blown in the area over 8000m of Mount Everest. The commandos couldn't move, so they had to stay in the camp. The whirlwind in the mountains is becoming more and more fierce. The team members lived in the assault camp for 13 days, and their physical strength was very high, and oxygen and food were almost used up. In the case of helplessness, the base camp gave the order to evacuate to the foot of the mountain. The first assault failed like this.

China mountaineers didn't lose heart because of failure. They will reach the peak again before the rainy season comes in late May. In order to gain time, the headquarters decided to raise the 8200-meter mountain camp and the 8600-meter assault camp to 8300 meters and 8680 meters respectively.

On May 17 and 18, 15 male players and 3 female players who had been out of the base camp for less than a week set off again, hitting the peak.

At this moment, news came that Junko Tanabe, vice captain of Japanese women's mountaineering team, created the first time for women to climb Mount Everest through the south slope. This news is both an encouragement and a challenge for China mountaineers on the North Slope.

On May 25th, the commandos arrived at 8680m assault camp and 8300m alpine camp respectively. Due to physical reasons, two female players and one male player quit during the March. The base camp decided to divide nine athletes into two groups and take turns to attack the peak. The first group was led by Sonan Rob, and the only woman in the commando team, Pando, led the second group, and reached the summit on the 27th.

On the 26th, the ten-level gale stopped the action of two commandos again. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, the base camp held a meeting and decided that the two groups must overcome all difficulties, complete the task that night and reach the summit on the 27th.

When the base camp gave the order, it also specially said to Pando on the walkie-talkie: "Although you are only a lesbian, you represent hundreds of millions of women in New China. You must try your best!" Panduoxin accepted her entrustment. She said that she would never fail to live up to the expectations of the motherland and must win glory for the women of new China.

Two commandos set out at exactly 3: 30 p.m. The team members marched bravely against the strong wind of 10. After five and a half hours of hard work, they completed the tasks of reconnaissance, road construction and forced March. 2 1, the two regiments joined forces in the 8680m assault battalion.

At 8 o'clock the next morning, nine climbers set out from the assault camp and started the final battle.

At 4: 30 Beijing time 14: 30, nine mountaineers, namely Sonan Rob, Pando, Luo Ze, Sangzhu, Dapingcuo, Seyiduoji, Gongga Basang, Hou Fu Sheng and Abqin, finally reached the summit of Mount Everest, which is one meter wide and more than ten meters long.

After the extreme joy, the nine China climbers felt extremely tired, but they still stood up firmly, laid the ice cone, pulled the rope, and firmly set up a 3-meter-high metal beacon tower. Then, they treasured the bright five-star red flag, made movies and took photos. They also collected rock samples, ice and snow samples and measured the depth of ice and snow. Finally, Pandora, a female mountaineer, lay quietly on the ice and snow on the summit and sent ECG signals to the base camp more than 20 kilometers away with a radio telemeter. They stayed on the roof of the world known as the "dead zone" for 90 minutes and completed a lot of valuable scientific experiments and important historical research.

1975, China people successfully climbed Mount Everest again, and two new world records were set in the history of human mountaineering, namely, the record that women successfully climbed the summit from the northern slope for the first time and the record that they stayed at the highest peak in the world for the longest time. More importantly, China's mountain warriors worked closely with surveyors to accurately determine the height of Mount Everest at 8848 meters for the first time.

This metal lighthouse is a historical testimony that China people are still at the forefront of mountaineering in the world. Its significance and value far exceed the function of surveying and mapping elevation, and it has been playing a far-reaching international influence for many years to come.

1975 In September, British mountaineers Heston and Scott climbed Mount Everest from the southwest wall and said, "We overcame extreme fatigue and reached the peak. We looked up and saw the tripod erected by China on the highest mountain in the world in spring. We endured all the pain and finally succeeded. The tripod is a testimony that we have climbed the highest mountain in the world. "

Mesner, a famous Italian mountaineer, said, "This is the symbol of the highest mountain in the world, which was set here by the people of China after a survey in 1975. It is a witness for mountain climbers all over the world to reach the top of the earth and my most loyal friend. "