Whose photographer is it and how to take pictures is better? What technology is used?

"More shooting" means more practice and more experience. Specifically, we might as well try more shots to win more, choose the best from many, or carefully re-shoot a scene after exploring the best scheme. This is a stupid trick, but it is really a trick to give full play to the advantages of digital cameras. Optical photographers have no laws. You see, optical cameras shoot with film, so you can't know whether you are satisfied or not on the spot. We won't know until we develop it. Winning with more is bound to waste a lot of film and the cost is too high. So optical photographers often cherish the "mirror" and don't press the shutter easily. When they grab the camera carefully and take the next photo, they have to go back and develop it before they know the result. If they are not satisfied, it will be difficult and it will be too late to make up for it. Therefore, old friends often lament that optical photography is an art full of regrets.

Digital photography is different. The image is now stored on the magnetic carrier of the machine, and can now be played back and observed. If you are not satisfied, get rid of them and start over. This is a great advantage of digital photography. So now I usually choose a topic first and choose several scenes around it. First, each scene revolves around it several times, and the shooting scheme under different angles and different lighting conditions (backlight, shun-light, photometry, fill-light, etc.) is drawn up. ), and then I did not hesitate to shoot. Sometimes I shoot the same project from the same angle several times, then stop to play back, and the dissatisfied shots are deleted on the spot, often ten to seven or eight, only one. Then shoot a scene and brew it until a special topic is completed. Generally speaking, two or three hundred or even four or five hundred shots were taken, leaving only seventy or eighty figures. After you come back, save it on the hard disk, then use ACDSee to enlarge and play it back, and delete a part. Then use the editing function of ACDSee to play back and do preliminary image processing. Generally, one is to correct the skew, the other is to cut it when necessary to improve the composition, and the third is to correct and make up for the lack of exposure of individual photos with the function of "automatic leveling". After this process, the photo can be considered as a preliminary finished product, and then it can be taken back to ACDSee for amplification and playback. If it is too mediocre, you can delete it again, so that there are only twenty or thirty or even a dozen photos left in each topic.

2. Don't underestimate the basic operations of focusing and metering settings.

Focusing is the most basic operation of photography. It can be said that everyone can't help it. However, when I check the reasons why some photos are not taken well, sometimes the problem only appears in focus. If you are using automatic photography, please do a good job of half-way focus lock, otherwise, if you are using a kind of semi-automatic photography with normal procedures, the theme may be blurred due to out of focus. Its characteristic is that the aperture and exposure time are automatically selected by the camera, while the metering mode, focusing mode and white balance condition can be manually selected. Things are different. Digital photography is a unique way and function that optical cameras do not have. If you don't make good use of its characteristics and treat it like automatic photography, you may be self-defeating and dragged down by it.

There are usually several focusing methods in program control mode, such as area focusing, focus focusing, remote focusing, close-range macro focusing and so on. When focusing, some can also change the focus to a specific position off the center (different cameras have different functions), so you can't simply treat complex functions, but be good at applying different functions according to different situations. Generally speaking, the default focusing method is to focus on flowers. I went to the flower market to shoot flowers years ago, because the dance orchid was very close, but how to shoot it was not clear enough, and even it was out of focus. I learned later that it was because I didn't shift my focus from the default mode to the closing mode. For example, if you shoot people in the shade, you must pay attention to the key metering and single-point focusing, and also pay attention to the half-distance focusing of the shooting theme, otherwise it will be difficult for you to shoot satisfactory works.

3. Try to keep the camera stable during exposure.

For novice and old photographers, sometimes the blurred image is not due to inaccurate focus, but because the camera is unstable. Generally speaking, for a novice, when the exposure speed is lower than1/60s, the imaging clarity may be affected. For an old hand, if the exposure time exceeds 1/30 seconds and there is no one to rely on, there may be a problem. To keep the camera stable, it is necessary to hold the camera correctly and press the shutter button correctly. The cultivation of this basic skill seems simple, but it is not a day's work. It is more likely that people will never practice it when they are old. So what should we do? I have several stupid ways: the simplest one is to find a support for my body or hands; Secondly, hang the camera belt around your neck and push the camera forward until the belt is tightened to form a three-point support, which greatly improves the stability of the handheld camera. With the exposure speed as long as 1/8 seconds, I took quite a few clear photos by this method. it wont hurt you to try it The third way is to add cable release (wire-controlled shutter trigger) on tripod, but some cameras don't have cable release interface, and cable release is quite expensive, so the corresponding effective alternative is to use delay function. It would be best if your camera has a 2-second delay function. "Tripod +2-second delay" is the most stable and convenient way. It doesn't matter if you don't have the 2-second delay function. Just use 10 second to delay, just waste some time, and the effect is just as good.

Speaking of angle frames, my lesson is that I must buy a better one. In order not to spend more money on it, I bought two cheaper tripods. As a result, the first leg tube is too thin, it shakes when touched, and it is easy to retract. The other is that the lateral rotation is not flexible after a long time. I had no choice but to buy a third one, and finally I spent enough money to buy a top brand. This is ridiculous.

4. Don't use the flash in a friendly way

There is an article saying that American photographers use flash when they want to use it. It seems that the flash is indispensable, and it is an indispensable condition for taking good photos. However, I often lose my cool when I shoot cats and tigers. Think about it. Maybe I swallowed it all at once. Maybe people use an external high-power auxiliary flash. ! As far as the built-in flash is concerned, the power is so limited, and the lighting distance and range are so small that it is impossible to illuminate all the scenery in a large range and the lighting is balanced, so it is only suitable for use when a specific theme needs to be highlighted. This is my first experience. Second, taking pictures of indoor people with flash, often the images are flat and lack of layering, or because the light source is single and the contrast is stiff, sometimes red eyes will be taken, which is even more difficult for a friend with glasses. His eyes are often "silvery" and expressionless, which annoys both him and me.

So I am incompetent, and I have tried to avoid using the built-in flash since the era of optical photography. I prefer to use the night vision function to improve the light sensitivity in the case of insufficient indoor light. Now, with a 4-megapixel digital camera, the photosensitive performance has been greatly improved, and good photos can be taken under general light conditions, which is even worse. "Forced non-flashing" takes priority as the basic means of indoor and outdoor photography. But this doesn't mean that the flash is useless (of course, you have to use it when the light is too bad), just put the use of the flash in the second place as an important means of light supplement. For example, when shooting people in backlight or shadow, using flash can greatly improve the picture quality, and sometimes it is even indispensable. In indoor photography, if the light source is too single, resulting in abnormal light and shadow, you need to use flash to fill the light. There are many other uses.

Of course, I am not a master photographer, let alone an expert in using flash. I may have gone too far in this respect. If there is anything wrong, please feel free to advise.

5. We should also pay attention to foster strengths and avoid weaknesses.

The photographic response of digital cameras is slow, and the time from pressing the shutter to starting photography is obviously much longer than that of optical photography, so it is often impossible to accurately grasp or grasp the lens when shooting moving objects. Film friends who have the camera continuous shooting function may wish to use this function to make up for its shortcomings.

6. Inject some aesthetic factors into the photos.

The two photos are equally clear, but some works make people feel beautiful, while others are plain. Why? The difference in aesthetic accomplishment and skill application is an important reason. Just like painting, some people draw very carefully, but they are full of craftsmanship and have no artistic conception. They can only call it a painting without entering the temple. Some people splash it casually, but the gas field is flying and eye-catching and difficult to move. Therefore, kung fu is not only in the mirror, but also outside the mirror. Photographers need to constantly improve their aesthetic cultivation.

To take a good photo, you must first make a good composition. There have been many articles teaching us how to use the principles of golden section and tic-tac-toe focusing. There is no need for someone like me to talk nonsense. I just want to add that there is a principle in painting Chinese painting: pay attention to "blank space", that is, don't fill the picture too full, which is as useful as photography.

For composition, some friends like to take photos with strong symmetry. For me, unless I want to highlight the symmetry of the subject, I would rather shoot from a small angle, because being too symmetrical is easy to give people a "rigid" feeling.

The lines are too horizontal and vertical and not rigid enough, so we should learn to use another set of lines to break the control of the main line.

The use of color is very important, but I think the brightness and contrast of light are the more important factors that affect the artistic conception.

These views should have been demonstrated with some concrete images, not as abstract as Zen, but they had to be communicated later because they occupied too much space.

7. Make good use of photo processing technology

No matter how well a photo is taken, there will always be flaws. Never mind, image processing software can help you. Modern photography technology includes three basic links: data acquisition, data (image) processing and data storage and output. Unprocessed images are only semi-finished products, and mature final products are processed, stored or output (such as printing or printing) images. I have seen some photo competitions, emphasizing the use of original photos and not allowing image processing. I feel very confused. You know, this is very unfair to film photographers who use entry-level cameras. In essence, this kind of competition will become a disguised camera competition and become a salesman of high-end cameras intentionally or unintentionally. The level of photographic works should be comprehensively manifested in two aspects: the level of outdoor photography and the level of indoor image processing. The primary purpose of image processing is to improve the restoration degree of photographic effect, and then improve the artistic expression ability of the theme, so it should not be ruled out. For example, a well-received film competition in March this year showed hazy beauty. I don't know whether this work 100% truly reproduces the shooting scene, but even if the shooting subject is clear, the author performs it as a hazy beauty by blurring (softening the lens), so I don't think anyone will deny its success. Similarly, indoor image processing can also blur or soften the subject of photography. For example, you can easily achieve the same effect by applying the Blur or Softening function in the Filter. What is the essential difference, and you are not allowed to choose?

The most famous image processing software is PHOTOSHOP and ACDSEE. ACDSEE is simple in function, but easy to learn and use. I use it to macro-process photos. PHOTOSHOP is very powerful, but it is very complicated to use (you don't expect to learn it all). I usually only use some of its basic functions to supplement the details of individual photos.

In general, after the results of external photography are input into the computer, I will "read" all the photos with ACDSEE. Including:

Correct the deviation. Originally, the photo was a little skewed, which did not affect the overall situation, and even had another interest. However, unless it is deliberately put in a certain angle, I will generally correct the unintentional deviation, because it is not in line with our visual habits and makes people look "not pleasing to the eye". When correcting, it is usually based on the linear scenery such as the horizon or buildings. When shooting up or down, the parallel lines will be inclined and concentrated to a certain point due to the perspective principle, and then the center line of the photo will prevail.

Cut the picture and cut it into a satisfactory composition. Generally speaking, 1600x 1200 pixels can meet the needs of home applications, but for pictures that may need to be cropped, I will use the specification of 2240x 1680 to improve the shooting, and still adjust it to the specification of 4:3 after cropping, so as to ensure that the imaging is not lower than1600x/as far as possible.

Adjust brightness and contrast. ACDSEE's "automatic leveling" function is an effective means to correct brightness and contrast, especially the photos taken by low-grade cameras are often underexposed, and the use effect is more obvious. Friends in need may wish to try. The disadvantage of "automatic leveling" is that it sometimes has a slight color cast after use. At this time, including the original result of color deviation, you can use the "Red/Green/Blue" function in the "Adjustment" item to adjust and improve the color reproduction of the photo.

8. Buy a camera

All the above are methods and skills, which can be classified as "software". However, material is the guarantee of success. No matter how high the technology is, without a good camera, it will still be "a clever woman can't cook without rice" (conversely, the two parts of "soft" and "hard" complement each other and cannot be neglected), so as long as the economic conditions permit, we must make up our minds to upgrade a high-end camera after completing the introductory exercise.