Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - A detailed introduction of "Issey Miyake"
A detailed introduction of "Issey Miyake"
Issey Miyake was born in Japan on 1935. His mother was injured in the atomic bombing of 1945 and died several years after the war. In his childhood, Japan was still a poor and devastated country. The western-style fashions brought to Japan by the American occupation, such as Marilyn Monroe, Mickey Mouse, TV and frozen food, left a deep impression on him when he was a child. Does this also leave traces of the combination of Chinese and western styles in his memory?
From 1959, Issey Miyake studied painting in Tokyo, but his real dream was to become a fashion designer. 1965, he arrived in Paris, the fashion capital, which seems not too far from his ideal. While in Paris, he continued his studies and began to work for Kira Roche. He cooperated with Givenchy at 1968, and soon he worked for Gouffrebien in new york, the designer is a master of elegance. 1970, he really started to set up his own studio. 197 1 year, he released his first fashion show, which was held in new york and Tokyo at the same time, and it was a great success, so he entered the design career of fashion masters.
Compared with Issey Miyake's fame, his economic benefits are always a mystery, because similar news is always mysterious. What we can know is that during the period from1March 1993 to1March 1997, only the brand line "I want to wrinkle" sold 680,000 coats, and about 2 10000 other series of clothes were sold all over the world every year. In just 1997, he opened 13 stores, bringing the total number of his stores to 109. In addition to fashion, his business scope also includes luggage, household items and bicycles. His most important business places are Paris, Tokyo, new york and London.
Issey Miyake's deepest impression is obviously the Oriental: unhurried pace, dedicated work attitude, accurate grasp of time, hoping to become the master of time. Educated, humorous and pragmatic, for example, he wants his clothes to be light and comfortable, instead of sitting at the table and having a formal dinner for four people. Issey Miyake is fluent in English and French. He looks a bit like a wealthy businessman in Egypt, with a calm face, slightly curly black hair, a back comb and a moustache. Silver-gray Daimler British cars with drivers often appear on the streets of Japan, while there is his white hull-like villa by the Seine. However, for him, enjoying the holiday is a luxury. He spent more time being famous as a "flight designer".
Issey Miyake likes beautiful girls, because he said that the beautiful girls he saw in the street are his inexhaustible source of inspiration, and his taste is simple and elegant. This also influenced his design.
Issey Miyake used to be an art student and later a fashion designer. He faced two important confrontations: the confrontation between pure art and commercial behavior (whether to be a successful photographer or a fashion designer) and the confrontation between fashion (Parisian Haute Couture and popular ready-to-wear represented by the United States). He carefully found a balance between the two, and it should be said that he established his unique position. The charming parts of his personality: childlike laughter, being good at creating a relaxed environment, close contact with contemporary artists, harmonious relationship with collaborators, etc. All these provided some guarantees for him to establish his own fashion empire. In his studio, the typical working state is: 10, an assistant with an average age of 25, who reflects his ideas on the spot in time. No music, no cigarettes, everything is in good order, but it is elegant and has no sense of urgency. Everyone does their job, and what they see is the scene of clothes being displayed or circulated. On the wall, there are a series of pictures, which provide detailed hints for the upcoming press conference. Perhaps it is the oil paintings of China and Tibetan herders. The master is working, and every gesture can be understood in time. In his view, work is a very happy thing. He still has a lot of things to do.
Issey Miyake's clothing is called the product of "East meets West". His purpose is to liberate the people who wear his clothes from the bondage of clothing structure, but at the same time, he shows unique physical beauty. As a result, he created a kind of clothing full of oriental characteristics, which is easy to move and has been well received by many consumers. His clothes always pursue charming colors and perfect fabrics. Tender and considerate is also his response to the feelings needed by the human body. The best combination of style, fabric weight and human body is one of his unique skills. If we go to his store, we can see clothes weighing only a few ounces, blue as jewels from the deep sea, perhaps like huge shells, and like rough waves, which are extremely delicate. In his early works, there is a strong impression of Japanese national costumes. He adopted the cloth processing technology used by Japanese farmers in the 5th century, which made the appearance of clothes have a very special feeling. His clothes have the shadow of Japanese samurai and the embodiment of mysterious oriental character. He also creatively used the knitted fabric of oilcloth and polyester fiber, combined with the unique cutting method, and formed what he called the "second skin" clothing characteristics. His clothes do not rule out practicality. While insisting on some characteristics of his own nation, he was influenced by the style of VIONNET, a famous designer in Paris. Now he transcends the boundaries of time and nation and becomes a master with his avant-garde and particularity.
Issey Miyake's own explanation of fashion is: I try to create a dress that belongs to neither the East nor the West. His pursuit is obviously successful. T-shirts, trousers, jackets, pullovers and coats as light as feathers are all popular all over the world with Issey Miyake's trademark, but it is worth mentioning that the practicality of his clothes has been greatly emphasized. His evening dress can be washed, dried and twisted and folded like a bathing suit in a few hours. In the modern women with faster and faster pace of life, these characteristics have fatal attraction.
If the details of clothes can explain the characteristics of a fashion designer, no one can ignore Issey Miyake when it comes to wrinkles. Although Issey Miyake can't be said to be the founder of folds, his folds are certainly the most unique and famous. From 1989, when his pleated clothes were formally introduced to customers, Issey Miyake's name was associated with the pleats on his clothes. Expressing his personality with folds is one of his starting points. "In Paris, I don't want to imitate anyone, I just want to be myself." In the style of VIONNET, a senior designer whose design features folds, he found the design language and carried it forward. Another starting point is that he wants his clothes to be as comfortable and docile as the second skin of the human body, and wrinkles can also accomplish this task well. It can give the wearer enough room to move and give them a chance to fully show their posture. Here, Issey Miyake solved the problem of coordination between the oriental dress which pays attention to leaving space for people and the strict structure of western style. In the seemingly incomplete clothing, customers have found the perfect solution for themselves. Therefore, Issey Miyake's pleated clothing finally completes the modeling task through the customer's wearing behavior. His folding scheme is permanent, and the shape of the fold is completed by high-tech treatment in the finishing stage and will not be deformed. At the same time, he also gave his clothes a trademark appearance with perfect color feeling. When talking about the style he created himself, Issey Miyake said, "This is an experiment and an adventure." Fortunately, after his success, he founded the series "I want to get rid of wrinkles" and led his career to a new level. On the premise of trying constantly, he invited artists from other industries to make a new brand series, including a specially customized combination for his pleated clothes. It seems that his signature style will last for a long time.
As a Japanese-born designer, Issey Miyake's unique aesthetic taste makes him feel beyond the western style, but his choice of models is different from the mainstream. He likes to choose models from his own country, but the model's boyish temperament and special requirements of not pursuing beauty are international. The black model is also his favorite. Perhaps it is this strong exoticism that attracts him.
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