Beginner photographers ask for help.

Only answer your question: (from my experience, I have been a teacher, so I speak easily. )

You wrote this photo wrong. Yes 18-200. This shot is only entry-level, also known as the "tourist head", and is known as "walking the world with one head". Don't get me wrong, just say that with this lens, you can handle most scenes, people and scenery shooting around the world. Its effect is average. Because this lens, from wide-angle close-range to medium-range, can be easily shot. Compared with special wide-angle lens, telephoto lens and fixed-focus lens, there is a big gap. It is only useful for novices, but it can't meet the requirements of senior people. The dog head and the cow head are not for this shot. )

18-200 represents the focal length, that is, the distance from which the scene can be photographed. 18 means the scene is close to you, and 200 means far away. Figuratively speaking, if you adjust it to 18mm, you can shoot the whole face of people who are less than half a meter away from you, and 200mm can shoot the whole face of people who are about 20 meters away from you. So you know what focal length means. When you want to shoot an oriole in a tree a few meters away from 10, you can shoot it at the lens 200 mm. On the other hand, when you walk on the ridge and see a stone tablet next to the stone steps, it is very interesting. It is impossible to take a step back. You can shoot at the end of 18mm or shoot all of it.

1:3.5-5.6, maximum aperture, 18 end 3.5, 200 end 5.6. Aperture is meaningful, equivalent to the size of the curtains you open. A small number means a large opening, 3.5 is larger than 5.6, so more light enters the camera, and the brighter the photo, the darker it is. When you are cloudy, you must adjust the aperture slightly to get bright photos. On the contrary, when the sun is strong on a sunny day, you should adjust the aperture slightly. Generally, f8 and f9 are a dividing line. F8-f 1 has a large aperture and a large amount of light. F8-f64 has small aperture and less light. The aperture and shutter are combined into one. When the shutter is fast, it is faster than 1 sec to 1 sec, and slower than 1 sec, just like the speed at which you open the curtains. For the fast shutter, you need to increase the aperture to ensure that the amount of light entering will not be too small, and for the slow shutter, you need to adjust the aperture to ensure that the amount of light entering will not be too much. I have talked too much, all from my experience, simple words, not the terminology and written language in the book. )

Depth of field:

The range of the scene is very clear, the front and back range, not the left and right range. Because people in China like to chew words, the front and back space is called depth of field, so it is called depth of field. (Bad words, right? Haha) Generally speaking, the shutter does not affect the depth of field, only the aperture will. When the aperture is large, because the incident light ratio is large, the scene can only be clear at a certain level, and the depth of the scene, that is, the clear range of the scene is relatively small (the distance between the front and rear is small), while the small aperture is deep, that is, the clear range of the front and rear scenes is large. When you try to open your eyes wide (wide aperture), is there only one place where your eyes gather? When you squint, are most areas clear? This is what we see in the distance, especially in the sun. People habitually narrow their eyes. All kinds of cameras are set by imitating eyes. It's easy to understand if you think about it more. As for the "large depth of field", it means that the scenery in the photo appears, and everything is basically clear from the close shot to the distant view.

Two rings: the first ring is usually to adjust the focal length, which means zoom in and out 18-200. The latter is usually focusing (point), that is, adjusting the clarity of the scene. Only manual ones are useful. ) Generally, everything in the camera is set to autofocus, because the eyes may not see clearly when it is too far away, but the automatic is more reliable.

Filter: uv mirror only protects the lens. The polarizer has a certain filtering function (stray light). Generally, taking pictures is enough, and you don't need to buy too many filters. A better one costs several hundred yuan. If you like shooting scenery, you can buy a natural medium gray density filter, which can balance the light contrast between the sky and the ground.

P: Program automatic mode, similar to automatic mode, is a built-in parameter of manufacturers, and it is mostly a combination of shutter and aperture developed by various manufacturers according to good photographing effect. Other parameters that can be adjusted, such as iso, exposure compensation and flash, should be adjusted by yourself. It is equivalent to various scene modes on the card machine, and the principle of the two is the same.

B: some cameras don't have this. That is, manual mode, which is also the meaning of general camera M mode. You have to adjust the aperture and shutter at the same time, iso (that is, how much light you feel, the value is 100- 1600 and so on. , 100 small, 1600 big, 1600 like a cat's eye, you can see things at night. )

You can add me to Baidu. Hi. .

Seek points. I called for more than half an hour. . . . . . .