Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - Clothing characteristics of Yao nationality
Clothing characteristics of Yao nationality
There are many specific characteristics of Yao costumes, and the costumes of various branches are not the same. Therefore, in the past, Yao people were called by different nationalities because of their different clothes colors, trousers styles and headdresses. Yao men in Nandan, Guangxi are called "Bai Ku Yao" because they wear collared shirts and knee-length shorts, and their crotch is large and white. Longsheng Yao people are called "Red Yao" because they wear red embroidered clothes, which reflects the richness of colors and styles of Yao costumes from one side. Yao nationality is a typical mountain nationality in southern China. They live in the mountainous areas of Guangxi, Hunan, Yunnan, Guangdong, Jiangxi and Hainan provinces. The ancestors of Yao nationality are generally considered to be a part of Wu Lingren in Changsha in Qin and Han Dynasties, or originated from "Wuxi people". From the 3rd century BC to the 2nd century AD, his pre-democratic life was in northern Hunan. Moving northward in the 5th and 6th centuries; 13-17th century, they moved south in large numbers, and Guangdong and Guangxi became their main residential areas. /kloc-in the 0/7th century, some Yao people migrated from Guangdong and Guangxi to the mountainous areas in southern Guizhou and Yunnan, forming today's distribution. There are now more than 2134,000 Yao people. Yao people call themselves Mian, Men and People. 63 species, he said there are 390 species, such as Pan Yao, Indigo Yao and Hongtouyao. After the founding of People's Republic of China (PRC), it was called Yao nationality. Yao people have complex religious beliefs, worship their ancestors "Pan Hu" and abstain from dog meat. In the primitive religion of Yao people, they mainly worship Chloe Wang, Fengbo and Yu Shi, as well as the natural gods such as grain gods, mountain gods, river gods, tree gods, beast gods and ox kings. Among the gods, Pan Hu and Miroto are supreme. Yao has its own language, which belongs to the Yao branch of the Sino-Tibetan language family, but the situation is more complicated. More than half of the people speak Burmese, which belongs to the Yao branch of Miao language family. Two fifths of the people speak Bunu, which belongs to the branch of Miao language; Some people in Guangxi speak "Lajia" language, which belongs to Zhuang and Dong language family. He is proficient in Chinese and Zhuang language and has no mother tongue. Generally speaking, Chinese is widely used. Oral literature is extremely rich. Yao people's places are rich in industrial rainfall, dense forests and natural resources, and have unique resources such as plants, animals and minerals. For example, Dayaoshan, Jianghua Yao Autonomous County, Hunan Province, which is known as the "green treasure house"; Jinxiu Dayao Mountain, known as the largest natural plant kingdom in Guangxi, is the hometown of Chinese fir. Yao folk houses are good at adapting to local conditions and can be divided into "half-story", "whole-story" and "quadrangle". A "half-story building" is generally five columns and three rooms, with a mansion at both ends, or a mansion at one end or a wing extending forward at the other end. Most of these buildings were built by Yao Hong. "The whole building" is called "half building"; Generally built on a flat foundation along the river or halfway up the mountain. The scale and ancillary buildings are the same as the "half building". Huayao and Pan Yao live in the whole building. "Siheyuan" is called "Siheyuan" because it connects four "whole building" houses with a small square yard in the middle. This kind of building is only inhabited by wealthy families along the river in Yao Hong.
What are the elements of Yao costume? What are the traditional characteristics of Yao costumes? Yao men's and women's clothing is mainly blue and blue homespun. Yao women are good at embroidery, embroidering exquisite patterns on skirts, cuffs and trouser legs. Hair is braided around the top of the head, surrounded by colorful beads, and the neck of the skirt is embroidered with colorful patterns all the way to the chest. Men like to have a pair of cardigans, oblique cardigans, pipa cardigans and robes.
Yao women are good at embroidery, and there are exquisite patterns on skirts, cuffs and trouser legs. Hair is braided around the top of the head, surrounded by colorful beads, and the neck of the skirt is embroidered with colorful patterns all the way to the chest. Men, on the other hand, like to tie their hair in a bun, wrap it in red cloth or green cloth, and wear a long-sleeved dress with no collar and double-breasted buttons, with a white cloth "vest" slung diagonally over it, and trousers with large underpants. Yao men's and women's clothing is mainly blue earth cloth. Men like to wear collarless tops and trousers or knee-length shorts. Men in Yaozhai Village, Nandan County, Guangxi, happily wear embroidered white pants; Yao men in Liannan, Guangdong like to keep a bun, decorated with pheasant hair and wrapped in red cloth. Women like collarless tops, trousers, short skirts or pleated skirts. The neckline, cuffs, chest, belt and skirt are decorated with colorful embroidery, which is dazzling. There are many styles of headdresses for Yao women, and they like to use ribbons such as silver hairpin, silver flower, silver bead and curved silver plate as headdresses, which have unique styles. Girls, unmarried or married women can be distinguished by their headdresses. Hongtouyao: Women wear red cloth on their heads, colorful patterns embroidered on sleeves and trouser legs, silver buttons hanging on their chests, silver earrings and silver collars. Call yourself "Meng" or "Dong Ban Heiyou". Baitouyao: Women wear blue cloth, handkerchiefs with red edges, red and white threads, blue trousers and red and white lace. Self-proclaimed "Black League of Friends". Indigo Yao: It is named after planting indigo (blue plant dye). Banana leaves are made into flat-top hats, blue cloth covers, blue trousers and red beads on the chest, calling themselves "repairing doors" and "auspicious doors". Shayao: Women's clothing is similar to Busha, a branch of Zhuang nationality, with a black handkerchief wrapped around her head, a blue-blue coat with diagonal buttons and striped lace on her underwear. I like mountains and rivers, living on both sides of the red river, and deeply influenced by "cloth sand". Also known as "Black League of Friends". Yao people are mainly distributed in Guangxi, Hunan, Yunnan, Guangdong, Guizhou and Jiangxi provinces. Yao costumes are rich and colorful, and there are also differences between different self-proclaimed Yao ministries. As early as the Book of the Later Han Dynasty, there were records of Yao ancestors wearing colorful clothes. Yao men's wear is mainly blue and blue. It can be divided into double-breasted, oblique-breasted, pipa-breasted tops and gowns. Yao men in Qujiang, Guangdong "dress with colorful embroidery lace", while Yao men in Wenshan, Yunnan, wear long gowns with large collars, lapels embroidered with a small amount of patterns and decorated with red velvet flowers. Pants vary in length, from the feet of the elderly to the knees. The man in Dayaozhai, Nandan County, Guangxi, is wearing white knickerbockers, knee-length, and near the knee, six red straight patterns with different lengths are embroidered. People call them "White Pants Demons". Yao women's clothing can be divided into three types: those wearing long-breasted tops and trousers, and the length of clothes and trousers varies from place to place. Some people wear collarless coats, belts around their waists, pleated skirts and leggings of different lengths. The "Bai Yao" woman wears a sleeveless top-down coat with no seams on both sides and only the bottom edge. Others wear knee-length trousers or unbuttoned clothes, long belts and trousers or shorts. In some areas, long clothes are short at the front and long at the back. Women's clothes are rich in color, decorated with large-area patterns such as lapels, back, chest, cuffs, trouser legs and skirts. Patterns are geometric patterns, which are quite different from the curve patterns commonly used in Miao and Yi embroidery. The headdresses of Yao women are colorful. Some Yao women in Dayaoshan, Guangxi, have three big arc-shaped silver hair pins on their heads, both ends of which are upturned and weigh about one catty. Yao women in Shangsi County, Guangxi have curly hair on their heads, wearing silver crowns and small square towels woven with long patterns. Yao women in Xilin County, Guangxi, tie a bun on their heads, cover them with white cloth, embroider them with red and black silk thread, and then surround them with a piece of blue cloth with white stamens. The two ends are tied into a number of hair balls with red lines, and they are tightly tied to their heads with small beads of various colors. The hair ball is concentrated on the back neck, and a square shoulder cloth is put around the neck. Women of Yao nationality in Du 'an, Guangxi use black cloth to cover their heads. The head of Mubian Yao women is covered with a bowl-sized silver skull, and two bone forks are inserted on the side of the skull. Two small silver chains are hung at both ends of the bone forks, and silk threads are hung at the lower ends of the two silver chains. Yao women in tianlin county, Guangxi, shaved all their hair around them, leaving only a part of the top of their heads, then put braids on their heads and wrapped them in 3-foot-long black cloth, which looked like a straw hat. The headdress of Yao women in Tiandong County, Guangxi Province is a 9-inch-long and 2.5-inch-wide cloth belt sewn with blue cloth, which is inlaid with silver decorative patterns and embroidered with lace around the patterns. Yao women in Hezhou, Guangxi, cut off their hair near their foreheads, put a round bamboo ring on their heads, wrap it with their hair and then wrap it with a square black cloth. Tuyao women used to shave their heads and little girls wore watermelon-shaped hats. When they were fourteen or fifteen, they wore flat round wooden hats. There are as many as 20 towels on the hat, and the silk hat belt weighs about two or three kilograms to seven or eight kilograms. ......& gt& gt
Yao costume legend In Yao legend, Wang Ping and Gao Wang were the leaders of two ancient tribes. Every time there is a conflict between tribes, the weak Wang Ping is always defeated. In desperation, Wang Ping issued a notice betrothing Yincui gorge to anyone who can take the high king's head, but no one dared to expose the imperial list and assassinate the strong enemy. At this time, a dog named "Dragon Dog" beside Wang Ping took down the notice and plunged into the territory of Gaowang. The fur of dragons and dogs is colored. When Gao Wang saw the offering, it was a good sign, and he left the dragon dog with joy. After Gao Wang got drunk at a party, the dragon and dog bit off his head and jumped back to Wang Ping's territory with a fish in his mouth. Wang Ping was both happy and sad, glad that the enemy had been destroyed, and worried that if he kept his promise, his daughter would marry a dog. Just as Wang Ping was about to go back on her word, the omniscient Yincui gorge Huaying promised to get married. To Huaying's delight, Dragon Dog turned into a handsome young man at night. Huaying begged her husband not to turn back into a dog, so the dragon dog told Huaying that the only way was to cover him with a golden bell in the hall and steam him under the fire for seven days and seven nights, so that the dragon dog could become a human. The princess did it as soon as she heard it. On the sixth day, the princess, worried that her husband was steamed to death, couldn't hold back any longer and opened the Admiralty. At this time, the dragon and dog still had ears left, so they wore headscarves to cover them. To this day, Yao men still keep the custom of wearing headscarves. This handsome young man incarnated by a dragon and a dog is Pan Hu, the ancestor worshipped by the Yao people for generations, and his descendants are honored as King Pan. Six men and six women were born with the third princess Huaying, and twelve sons were divided into twelve counties, with twelve main surnames of Yao nationality such as Pan and Zhao. In the embroidery pattern on the headscarf of Yao nationality, twelve arrows represent twelve counties of Yao nationality, which also implies that Yao nationality is a hunting nation. The square pattern surrounded by the arrow is the symbol of Wang Pan's power seal "Wang Pan Seal". Legend has it that the ancestors of Yao nationality evolved from dogs, which reflects the totem worship of dogs by hunting nations.
Characteristics of Yao costume and its relationship with environment and production; Tujia men wear pipa lapels and blue silk on their heads. Women wear left-breasted robes and Tujia costumes.
Roll two or three pieces of lace, the sleeves are wider, and the bottoms are wrapped with trouser legs or eight-point skirts. I like to wear all kinds of gold, silver and jade articles. After Qin and Han Dynasties, the costumes of Tujia ancestors had strong national characteristics. The descriptions of "Wu Lingren", "Wuxi people" and "good five-color clothes" in the Book of the Later Han Dynasty show that Tujia ancestors liked "colorful" clothes. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the brocade industry in the prosperous Tang Dynasty also entered its heyday. At the same time, making clothes with colorful brocade has naturally become the favorite of Tujia people. "Xi Man Cong Xiao" in the Southern Song Dynasty described it this way: "Five colors and lines, gorgeous literary talent. Often used as quilts, clothes or towels, it is also called cloth. " . There are also many records in Ming History and Longshan County Records during Tongzhi period. Tujia people advocated the custom of colorful costumes until the Qing Dynasty. Before that, Tujia people followed an old habit: "Men and women hang down their hair, and short clothes stumble." "Men and women are the same style, with embroidered towels on their heads and embroidered lace on their skirts." (Qing Qianlong's Yongshun Mansion Records). In the twenty years of Qianlong, the image of Tujia people was clearly presented in the Palace Map of Qing Dynasty for the first time in the form of sketches: at this time, some Tujia men in Yongshun, Baojing and other areas began to wear pants, short robes with round necks and thighs, headscarves, belts and leggings; Women, on the other hand, wear a short gown with a standing collar, a double-breasted vest, a knee-length pleated skirt and a piece of cloth wrapped around their legs.
Women's clothing of Yao nationality in China pays attention to embroidery and batik. They usually wear pipa lapels or big-breasted tops, trousers, short pleated skirts, leg wraps and various styles of headscarves, hats and silver ornaments. Men wear cardigan, trousers or knee-length shorts; Guangxi Nandan embroidered with white trousers and trousers; Guangdong Liannan area is wrapped in red cloth and inserted with pheasant tail. Use blue and green homespun.
How do you know that he is a Yao nationality? What's the difference between his clothes and those of other nationalities? Yao men's wear is mainly blue and blue. It can be divided into double-breasted, oblique-breasted, pipa-breasted tops and gowns.
Yao men in Qujiang, Guangdong "dress with colorful embroidery lace", while Yao men in Wenshan, Yunnan, wear long gowns with large collars, lapels embroidered with a small amount of patterns and decorated with red velvet flowers. Pants vary in length, from the feet of the elderly to the knees.
The man in Dayaozhai, Nandan County, Guangxi, is wearing white knickerbockers, knee-length, and near the knee, six red straight patterns with different lengths are embroidered. People call them "White Pants Demons".
What colors are commonly used in Yao costumes? Yao costumes are rich in color, and the main color is black, but most of the costumes are decorated with colorful decorations. Yao costumes have always influenced the national costumes in China.
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