1996 the process of the Everest accident

1in the spring of 996, more than 20 mountaineering teams tried to hit the top of the world from the south slope of Mount Everest. At the beginning of May, more than a dozen teams gathered in Nepal's base camp on the south slope of Mount Everest, ready to use the May window with suitable weather to reach the summit. Among them: Rob Hall, an exploration consultant led by New Zealand mountaineer, and Mountain Madness led by Scott Fisher, an American explorer. Macgillivray Freeman IMAX expedition led by American outdoor photographer David Ritschl, Taiwan Province professional mountaineering group led by Taiwan Province Gaominghe (nicknamed Makaru), Johannesburg Sunday Times led by British Ian Woodall, Alpine Mountaineering International led by American mountaineer Todd Boursin, International business led by Englishman Maldov, Himalayan guide business led by Englishman Henry Todd, Swedish independent mountaineering led by Swede klopp, and Norwegian Solo New Zealand-Malaysian Pumori represented by Norwegian Peter Naypyidaw, led by New Zealander Gail Courter; American business, led by American Dan Masour; Nepal's Everest cleaning team is composed of Nepalese. At the same time, some teams are also preparing to launch an attack on the northern slope of Mount Qomolangma at the Rongbu Temple in Tibet, China. These include the Indian-Tibetan border police led by Habujian in India and Fukuoka in Japan led by Yoji Yata in Japan.

According to the forecast, May 10 is the suitable day to reach the summit, and the adaptability training of each team has been completed. Early that morning, the wind speed was not strong. Many teams began to climb up. The first group to set out was an expedition consulting mountaineering group led by rob hall. After dawn, they set out from camp 4 and headed for the balcony from the south pass. Followed by Scott Fischer's Crazy Mountain Mountaineering Group and Gaoming and Taiwan Province Professional Mountaineering Group. Their plan is to go through the path of South Cole-Balconi-South Summit-Hillary steps, finally complete the summit, then start to retreat before 2 pm and return to Camp 4 at night. Among them, Anatoli Boukreev, the deputy leader of the Crazy Mountain Climbing Group and a professional climber of the former Soviet Union, has climbed the 8000m peak without oxygen for many times, so he insisted that he did not bring an oxygen bottle. Later, his action became a controversial point afterwards.

However, the travel plan soon changed. Sherpas, as pioneers, failed to complete the assembly and maintenance of bridges and ladders across ice cracks within the planned time. Because of this, three mountaineering teams were forced to stay near the balcony for more than an hour. The elevation of the balcony has exceeded 8000 meters, and it is extremely short of oxygen. This extra hour consumed a lot of oxygen, which laid a hidden danger for the subsequent disaster. When they reached the steep Hillary steps, they found that the rope ladder on the steep slope should have been laid by Sherpas, but it could not be used. So at an altitude of 8700 meters, they were forced to wait for another hour.

While waiting, Lou Kasischke, an experienced American member of the expedition consulting mountaineering team, had climbed the highest peaks on six other continents. He felt that the situation was not good, so he applied to return to Camp 4. Two of his teammates, Stuart hutcheson and John tasker, returned to Camp 4 with him. Stuart hutcheson is a Canadian who has climbed Gregory Peak and the north slope of Mount Everest, and John tasker is the oldest Australian.

After the rope ladder was repaired, the third team continued to climb. In the afternoon 1:07, Anatoly Pocliffe, a Russian who climbed without oxygen, was the first to reach the top. After him, there are Rob Hal, Yasuko Nambok (the second Japanese female mountaineer to complete the Seven Peaks Challenge), Beck Weathers, Andrew Harris, Jon Kolekall (reporter of outdoor magazine), Martin Adams (who has climbed Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kilimanjaro).

However, due to the previous delay, the time for the remaining players to reach the summit has exceeded 2 pm. By 2: 30, the rest of the crazy mountain climbing group had reached the peak. At this time, the base camp received a report that the strong thunderstorm in the south suddenly turned and approached Mount Everest. After consulting with rob hall, Anatoly, the deputy team leader, decided to go down the mountain immediately. However, the downhill process was not smooth, which delayed a lot of time. After 3 o'clock in the afternoon, suddenly it was dark. Sherpas waiting along the way also began to retreat. Ange, a retreating Sherpa guide, met Doug Hansen, an American who was still climbing up the Hillary steps. Ange persuaded Doug to give up climbing, but Doug insisted on climbing because he was forced to give up when he was about to reach the top the year before last and failed to reach the top. Because of family reasons, this is his last chance, and he doesn't want to give up halfway again. Scott Fisher, the leader of Crazy Mountain, finally reached the top of the mountain, and it was already 3: 45. Experienced, he actually suffered from severe altitude sickness.

Anatoly returned to Camp 4 at 5: 00pm without oxygen, followed by Martin and jon krakauer. Everyone else is slowly falling. At this time, the weather is already quite bad, and the storm and blizzard hit, and the wind speed was as high as 70 miles per hour (about per hour 102 km). Scott Fisher dived hard with the help of Sherpas and met Gao Minghe, the injured leader of Taiwan Province Province. Two men retreated with the help of Sherpas. But soon, the snowstorm became more serious. The Sherpas couldn't drive the injured Scott Fisher and Gao Ming, so they had to stay where they were and withdraw first.

Snow-covered roads, Including Nambok Kangzi, Creveux, NealBeidleman, Sandy Pittman (who completed six of the Seven Peaks Challenge), Charlotte Fox (a famous mountaineer who has climbed Mount Zhuooyu and Mount Gashur Bloom II), Baker, Tim Madson, Lene Gammelgaard (the first Scandinavian woman to climb the south slope of Mount Qomolangma) and Mike Groom (the deputy leader of exploration consultation, who has climbed Luozi Peak, Gancheng Zhangjiafeng and Jogory Peak) all got lost near South Col, not far from Camp 4.

Meanwhile, Doug Hansen was trapped at the top of Hillary steps, unconscious. With him was rob hall, the captain of the mountaineering team, who tried to stay and help him with his expedition. Rob Hal radioed for help from Andrew Harris, the deputy head who had gone down to the south summit. Andrew Harris got the water and oxygen stored in the path at the south summit, then turned to the mountain and moved closer to rob hall. Andrew Harris successfully joined Rob Hal and Doug Hansen, but the weather was so bad that they were both trapped above 8,000 meters of Mount Everest. As it gets dark and the temperature drops, rob hall and others gradually lose their body temperature. Doug Hansen died soon after.

Near midnight, the snowstorm weakened, and the team lost in Nan 'ao was finally stationed in Camp 4. Lerner, Neil, Mike and Krevor returned to the camp by themselves. Anatoly, who is recuperating and maintaining his physical strength, sent out to save people and successfully brought back Tim, Sandy and Charlotte. However, due to limited physical fitness, Anatoly failed to rescue Nanpu Kangzi and Baker who were seriously injured.

On May 1 1, around 4 am, Rob Hal called the base camp and said that Gerhard Hansen had passed away. Soon after, Andrew Harris also fell off the cliff. He moved down the hill alone. However, due to severe frostbite, he failed to reach South Cole. At around 9 am, he made the last call with his wife, Jan Arnold, by radio and satellite phone, and then he lost contact. More than ten days later, the IMAX mountaineering team who came to search found his body, but according to Jane's wishes, the IMAX mountaineering team left Rob Hal's body on Mount Everest.

Stuart, a Canadian who turned back on the way to the summit the day before, set out from Camp 4 and began to search for Nanpu Kangzi and Baker who had not returned yet. He found two people. At this time, both of them are still breathing, but the injury is too heavy and they are unconscious. Stuart can't save them by himself, so he must go back to the camp first. However, in the afternoon, the storm subsided and the temperature warmed up. Baker, who regained consciousness, walked back to Camp 4 alone. And Nanpu Kangzi was killed. Baker, who returned to Camp 4, was seriously injured. His teammates thought he was hopeless and had to give him painkillers and stimulants. However, after taking stimulants, Baker and his teammates actually retreated from Camp 4 to Camp 2, which can be reached by helicopter.

At the same time, Anatoly and several Sherpas went up the mountain to look for Scott Fisher and Gao Ming. They found two people, but by this time Scott Fisher was too injured to be rescued. Sherpas can only save Gao Ming and his minor injuries and take him back to Camp No.2. At this moment, the helicopter came and took Baker, Gao Ming and He to the hospital. Baker was badly injured and lost his hands and nose, but both of them survived. Subsequently, several other groups, including the IMAX mountaineering team, began to go up the mountain to participate in the search and rescue, but no other survivors were found.

While the southern slope was in distress, the team climbing the northern slope from China side also encountered a snowstorm. On the northeast ridge of Mount Everest at an altitude of 8,600 meters, three people were killed in the Indian border police mountaineering team. The body of one of them, because it has a pair of green hiking shoes and is located in a place where snow is not easy to accumulate, looks very conspicuous in the distance and has been seen many times by later climbers. In this way, on this day, eight people died on Mount Everest (three Indian policemen, Scott Fisher, rob hall, Andrew Harris, Doug Hansen and Nanpu Kangzi), which was the most fatal mountaineering accident on Mount Everest at that time.

Anatoly Pocliffe was once accused by the media because he didn't carry oxygen as a team leader and went down the mountain alone before the team members went down. Although three people were successfully saved, they still failed to escape condemnation. These charges include John kracauer's later book Into Thin Air. Sadly, shortly after the accident, in order to forget the pain and respect for the dead teammates, he climbed Luozi Mountain alone (the fourth highest mountain in the world), and unexpectedly broke the fastest record of human climbing Luozi Mountain. Later, in order to respond to the social doubts about him, he found someone to publish "Climbing" and recorded the accident from another angle. A year later, he was awarded the highest honor medal-David A. Solles Memorial Award by the American Mountain Club in recognition of his contribution to saving three people in the mountain disaster. Three weeks after winning the prize, he was killed by an avalanche while climbing Anna Poorna Mountain.