Tuao visual photography studio

(Zhu Dihua) Hua Juan

Independent fashion designer, founder of JUDYHUA Studio. Won the "China Designer of the Year Award" in ELLE Fashion Festival and the "Most Style Award" in Shanghai Fashion Week for two consecutive years. He has cooperated with many cross-industry head brands such as Zhou Chunya, Zheng Zaidong, Wang Yuping, Zhou Wei and top artists and architects in China.

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Hua Juan is used to writing down things that touched her. Over time, the notebook became the inspiration for her new fashion creation. There are books I have read, art exhibitions I have seen and landscapes I have encountered in my notebook. Some of these inspirations have been integrated into the past design, while others are waiting for the right time. For example, the scenery encountered on the way to Dunhuang two years ago.

"There are very few people in that place, and the desert and the distant mountains are as far as the eye can see. At sunset, the weathered stone blends with the color of the desert. Our car was driving on the road, and at the end of the road, the sunset suddenly disappeared, and the skyline seemed to jump with it, and then disappeared. For a native of Shanghai like me, the impact of that scene of light and shadow is great. But I'm not ready to present it with fashion design. "

Simple Pioneer, a high-end fashion brand founded by Hua Juan, aims to show the flexible inner strength of contemporary women with fashion as the carrier. As early as 20 1 1, she won the "China Designer of the Year Award" in ELLE Fashion Festival. Before becoming a fashion designer, Hua Juan worked as a director and assistant to the president for more than half a year. The former let her know what the behind-the-scenes creative team should be, and the latter let her see what qualities the team operators should have. Subsequently, Hua Juan founded JUDYHUA, a personal haute couture brand, as the design director.

"I once thought about what kind of work I can do to express my thoughts on art and serve people's daily lives. And fashion designers happen to be like this. "

Art plays a very important role in Hua Juan's life and career, just as art was the initial motivation for her decision to become a fashion designer. At the beginning of her business, she liked contemporary art and opened a studio and flagship store in M50, a gathering place for artists in Shanghai.

"For example, Mr. Zhang, from his early works to the present, is changing at every stage. When his heart tends to be calm, his works make me feel more. I think this has changed a lot. Last year, his exhibition opened. I went to see it and told him that it was really great. He told me: this is necessary, because audiences and collectors all over the world have seen too many things, and they will become different from the past, so they must be better every year. "

Some time ago, Hua Juan saw an exhibition by American female artist Loie Hollowell at the Dragon Art Museum, and she was deeply touched: "At different stages of life, such as pregnancy and becoming a mother, all influenced her creation and promoted changes. For example, the change of painting tools, from brushes to fingers and even the use of sponges … Her works bring not only visual feelings, but also experiences. Seeing her works, I will think, what if I try to incorporate some different elements into the fashion design? There will be changes in the process of integration, just like the spiral changes in artists' works. The process of this change fascinates me. Sometimes it's only 1 cm or 0.2 cm, but the visual effect is different. I will continue to disassemble them until my legs are numb and I realize that it has been four hours. "

Colleagues in the company's product department once asked Hua Juan: Why does it take so long to print a dress? Why does a pocket have to be disassembled repeatedly? In this regard, Hua Juan's answer is very practical: "First, the printing time has no effect on your income, and this is not piecework; Second, we are not a commercial brand, but a designer brand. What we have to do, as yves saint roland said, is that women's clothing is not a beautiful building, but a house, which makes people living in the house feel comfortable and beautiful. Our constant dismantling and redoing is not a waste, but a constant improvement of proportions and adjustment of details according to the wearer's feelings. Let the clothes obey the wearer and let the wearer feel free. "

Jennifer craik, the author of Face of Fashion, wrote: "With the improvement of women's spending power, their choices and discrimination have obviously increased, and then they are required to make their own voice in the ultimate judgment field of women's performance." Hua Juan said that what she is trying to do is to convey her design concept, so that people wearing JUDY HUA can feel some spiritual strength from it, and hope that they can feel the beauty and texture of life through fashion.

Although influenced by artists, although art and fashion design are both part of creative industries, Hua Juan has never confused her position: "Fashion designers are not artists. We only express our observation and attitude towards life through fashion design. At the same time, as the clothing of our works, it should first serve people's lives and be worn by people to feel. It will be in contact with the skin and needs functionality and durability. "

Hua Juan's idea coincides with that of architect Shuhei Aoyama, who believes that good design can not only improve people's lives at the functional level, but also impress people at the emotional level. It is precisely because of the combination of brand style and design concept that Shuhei Aoyama has become Huajuan's latest cross-border partner: "Whether it is indoor space design or clothing design, we express our understanding of people and the essence of people's life through design, and at the same time pay attention to material texture and detail control. So I think our design philosophy is common. "

Last month, the exclusive store designed by Shuhei Aoyama for JUDYHUA officially opened in Chengdu International Financial Center. The main decoration in the store is a variety of natural stone and metal materials imported from Italy, which restore the natural beauty of raw materials through simple and delicate manual work. The concave-convex texture of marble echoes the delicate texture of JUDYHUA's fashion selection, which brings a wonderful atmosphere with both artistic atmosphere and advanced texture to the whole space against the soft light.

Hua Juan once wrote a sentence in her column: "Only a few people are artists of life, and the art of life is the most outstanding and rare art", and her life, design and brand are all witnesses of all this.

Portrait photography: Wu Ming

Author: Gu Chenxi