Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - Tangchao clothes

Tangchao clothes

Tangchao men's wear

The men's robes and men's clothes in Shantou in Tang Dynasty have added new styles on the basis of continuing the traditional Hanfu with cross-neck and double-breasted buttons. One is a hoe and the other is a round neck and narrow sleeve robe.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was the first dress based on the towel of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right.

Following the lapel of the round robe, the main dress of officials in the Tang Dynasty was a round neck and narrow sleeve robe. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time.

Judging from many pictures handed down from ancient times, this kind of T-shirt is popular in informal occasions: it is not attached to the chest below the neck, so that the front layer of the robe naturally hangs loosely and forms a lapel. This is also close to Khufu's lapel, which really achieves a similar effect to Khufu's. In today's words, it is probably called looking foreign.

However, the round neck robe is not a common dress for people in the field, nor is it a dress for major sacrifices and major political activities.

Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty

By the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes were more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's dress in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and blouse. Compared with other dynasties, women's clothing in Tang Dynasty has strong self-confidence and fashion consciousness, and pursues elegance and splendor.

Skirts-basic overview

Skirt (cross-neck version) Skirt is a very basic style of Han women's wear, that is, women wear short skirts and long skirts (commonly known as tops and skirts). Under the influence of the prosperous times, Tang Nv's Yan costume has been fully developed, with half arm and silk, so Yan costume has become the most exciting supporting costume in the Tang Dynasty and even in the whole history of China costume. ① strict:

That is, the coat usually only grows to the waist, which is very short, and the waist is usually tied under the skirt line. You can add a set of "half arm", "vest" or even a longer "raccoon" outside.

Tang Nv's coat, such as clothes and clothes, is the uniform of all classes. Yuan Zhen's poem "Lotus Silk Shirt and Lotus Silk Skirt", Zhang You's poem "Where to Take Yuanyang Embroidery, Who Will Pay for Peacock Sweater", and Ouyang Jiong's poem "Tea Girl Leads Her". Judging from these poems, it is very common for women in the Tang Dynasty to wear clothes and shirts, and they like red, light red or light ochre, light green and other colors, and the appearance is even more beautiful with the gold and silver embroidery of "Luoshan embroidered leaves and Jinfeng embroidered geese".

The neckline is divided into "cross collar" and "double lapel". The neckline of the cross lapel is Y-shaped, with the right lapel inside, the left lapel outside and the left lapel tightened at the right waist. On the other hand, double-breasted clothes are symmetrical left and right, tucked in the middle of the waist, and collar underwear or terminalia chebula (that is, tube top) is exposed in the middle gap. The half-arm neckline and lapel of the coat are mostly double-breasted

The cuffs of shovel are divided into "narrow sleeves" and "wide sleeves". Most of the lower-class women in the folk have narrow sleeves, which is no different from modern times; The upper class aristocrats have convenient narrow sleeves and gorgeous and elegant wide sleeves.

(2) skirt:

Women wear skirts. Skirt fabrics are mostly silk fabrics, but there are many differences in materials, usually one more piece is better. The material, color and style of skirts in the Tang Dynasty are much higher than the previous generation, which can be described as gorgeous and colorful. For example, there are many skirt styles involved in Tang poetry, such as "Fairy first wears a blue skirt", "Lotus leaf skirt with the same color", "Two-person hidden flower skirt", "Bamboo leaf skirt", "Blue gauze skirt" and "New neon moonlit skirt". The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful and can be compared with people, mostly crimson, apricot, crimson, moon green and turquoise. Among them, pomegranate color has the longest popularity. Li Baiyou "deceives willow leaves with eyebrows and envies pomegranate flowers with skirts." Wan Chu has "Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers." Its popularity can be seen from the "Yanjing May Song", "Pomegranate flowers are burned all over the street, and the branches are all falling, and thousands of households can't buy them, leaving their daughters in red skirts." The biggest feature of pomegranate skirt is its high skirt and short coat, which is in sharp contrast with the width and length of the two. "Luoshan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Yinyan has its own traces." Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for each other, especially the red skirt. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not the patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed red by pomegranate flowers everywhere.

Perhaps influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Yang Guifei likes the yellow skirt best, which is a symbol of status.

The style of this coat and skirt is the inheritance, development and perfection of the previous generation of clothing. From the overall effect, the coat is short, the skirt is long, and it looks slim and slender.