"The Original" Red Star over China (5) Millennium Mogao Grottoes, a thrilling treasure on earth (1)

Dunhuang, the story that Silk Road can't get around for thousands of years; Dunhuang, a small town in the west of China, is an oasis in the desert, but it formed a large-scale cave group more than 1000 years ago, and the Mogao grottoes, a wonderful art in full bloom, shined for 1650 years, dazzling the world.

Because of a promise and a roll of film, I began to watch and pursue this distant place for 30 years. I often stare at the distant horizon in the lazy afternoon sunshine, drinking coffee alone, replaying the scenery in my mind and telling myself that I will go there again one day to find my dream.

In fact, the dream of going to Dunhuang again has been done for 30 years. I used to face the map, plan the walking route and imagine the walking way. But unexpectedly, in June of 5438+00 this year, I got an opportunity to get close to Dunhuang.

In 20 16 AD, the Mogao Grottoes, which are famous for their splendid murals and colorful colored sculptures, have passed 1650 years.

1650, the years are long, and the Mogao Grottoes stand quietly in the depths of the Gobi Desert in the northwest. It seems to be leisurely "watching" the clouds and clouds, but in fact it interprets the vicissitudes of time with the ups and downs of life.

Now, after 30 years, I can finally meet you again and set off for Dunhuang, the place I dream of!

I went to Dunhuang to see a historical legend. Formerly known as Shazhou, it is an important place on the Silk Road and a place where eastern and western cultures blend and collide. That legendary history has become vivid and touching because of the existence of the Mogao Grottoes.

Dunhuang is undoubtedly called Dunhuang because of Mogao Grottoes. There are too many cultural accumulations, too many historical scrolls and too many human ideological and artistic essences.

skill

At present, the number of caves that are normally open to the outside world in Mogao Grottoes has remained above 40 all the year round, and will be properly rested. Generally, 15 holes are opened on weekends, and 10 holes are opened at other times.

As the supreme treasure of human civilization, management is very strict. It is forbidden to take pictures in the cave. Please take the initiative to deposit your bags and photographic equipment. There is a free storage point at the entrance.

In order to limit passenger flow, it is necessary to make an appointment in advance.

Visit Mogao Grottoes

"Mogao Grottoes" means "high in the desert", so it was renamed "Mogao Grottoes" because "desert" and "Mo" are common.

The Mogao Grottoes, commonly known as the Thousand-Buddha Cave, is one of the three major grottoes in China. It is known as the most valuable cultural discovery in the 20th century and the "Louvre in the East". Founded in the pre-Qin period of sixteen countries, it has been through sixteen dynasties, including Northern Dynasty, Sui Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Five Dynasties, Xixia and Yuan Dynasty, and has formed a huge scale, with 735 caves, 45,000 square meters of murals and 244 clay sculptures.

In order to visit the Mogao grottoes early, we arrived at the tourist center at 7: 30.

Because it was an emergency ticket reserved in advance, and I submitted my ID card last night, I went straight to the queue to take the bus early in the morning. Even so, at that time, our bus lines had already lined up, but fortunately, there were staff everywhere to supervise and be orderly.

At 8 o'clock, the first bus in the scenic spot was officially issued. At this time, I looked back at the long queue at the ticket office, which seemed to be longer than the bus queue, and I was secretly pleased.

After about 20 minutes' drive, the tourists filed down. At this time, it was completely bright, and Xiaoyao Gongzi found that the Mogao Grottoes were located at the waist of an inconspicuous khaki mountain range. There are caves hidden in the sparse Woods, and a dry river bed stands at the foot, which is extremely desolate, bleak and mysterious.

Outside the gate of the Mogao Grottoes, there is a river, and there is a clearing by the river. There are several pagodas, which are built at random. This tower is round and looks like a gourd.

Judging from the collapse of several towers, a wooden stake stands in the center of the tower, surrounded by yellow mud, and the base is made of blue bricks. Monks and abbots in Mogao Grottoes have never been rich, which can also be proved from here.

In the distance, three steep mountains are littered with vaguely silent towers. This is the tower of the yogi, and sleeping here is also a kind of luck.

One of the towers is relatively well preserved because it was built recently. There is an inscription on the tower. When I read it, I was suddenly surprised to find that its owner turned out to be the sinner king of Mogao Grottoes. Stop at his grave, sigh and merit, and everything will return to dust.

After crossing the No.1 Bridge of Daquanhe River, the first thing you see is the "Great Archway", and the four powerful characters "Stone Chamber Treasure" on the forehead of the square were inscribed by Mr. Yu Youren.

On the back of the arch is the title of "Three Risks Range Rover"

Although the archway of this ancient building with eaves and walls, red columns and green tiles is not tall and majestic, its image is solemn and generous.

Not far away, we arrived at the wooden archway of Mogao Grottoes. From here, we will begin the exploration tour of the Mogao Grottoes.

The caves in Mogao Grottoes are all built on the cliffs of Mingsha Mountain, with different sizes and patchwork. This is an abandoned grotto with no development value.

Cave 96 of the Mogao Grottoes, which people used to call "the ninth floor", is the symbol of the Mogao Grottoes. The building is 45 meters high, only seven floors can be seen from below, and only two small towers can be seen from above.

Cave 96 of the Mogao Grottoes, which people used to call "the ninth floor", is the symbol of the Mogao Grottoes. The building is 45 meters high, only seven floors can be seen from below, and only two small towers can be seen from above.

The eaves of the nine-story grottoes stand on the mountain, and the wings of wild geese and iron horses jingle, which is magnificent and magnificent. It is the landmark building of the Mogao Grottoes.

In the center of Shangsi Grottoes in Mogao Grottoes, the red lacquer wood structure and rock mass are skillfully integrated. The wood structure is earthy red, the eaves are high and pecked, the appearance outline is patchy, and the eaves ring with the wind.

This cave was excavated in the early Tang Dynasty. The giant Buddha in the cave is 35.5m high and12m wide between knees. It is the largest Buddha statue in Mogao Grottoes, the third largest Buddha statue in China and the "largest indoor Buddha statue" in the world. The Buddha has a round face, Shu Lang eyes and curly hair, which is typical of the early Tang Dynasty. According to this, it can be inferred that only the main hall itself was rebuilt in the past dynasties, and the statue may not be greatly changed, but only repainted at most. It is said that his feet are original works of the Tang Dynasty (net map).

Cave 96 is the landmark of Mogao Grottoes. There is a Maitreya Buddha in the cave, also known as the "North Elephant", which was built in the year when Wu Zetian ascended the throne.

This Buddha statue is completely different from the ordinary Maitreya Buddha. Its legs droop and tilt. Look down with your eyes, one hand is raised and the other hand is stretched horizontally. Its body is full and round, and its manners are solemn and sacred. Looking closely, I feel that there is a feeling that the mother instrument is the world, which is completely the embodiment of Wu Zetian.

The murals left on the cliff next to Cave 96 are still colorful despite years of erosion. The north and south walls of the main room are painted with giant bodhisattvas, about 15 meters high (net map).

talk to oneself

In this world, if there are some places that are destined to make you regret for life, Dunhuang should be one of them.

Dunhuang is a world-famous civilized city, a sacred place in the hearts of countless people, and a meeting place of four major civilizations in the world (in the words of Mr. Ji Xianlin). In my opinion, the profoundness of Dunhuang is beyond words.

Someone once said: Dunhuang scholars are also the sad history of Chinese academics. On the day of going to the Mogao Grottoes, Xiaoyao Gongzi saw her bathed in the sun.

The Mogao Grottoes can't be understood at a glance. Only when you are quiet can you walk into its heart and feel surprised and amazed! This shows that I will come to Mogao Grottoes again!

Looking at the Mogao Grottoes is not about specimens that have been dead for a thousand years, but about life that has lived for a thousand years. What a magnificent life it is to live to be a thousand years old, with smooth blood flow and even breathing!

After a spiritual baptism, the vehicle left the cave wearily and headed for the return journey. The deserted desert is even more desolate in the midday sun.

If your soul feels nothingness, life feels pale and life is monotonous, please go to Dunhuang. There, in the desert, Gobi, oasis and Sanskrit flowing for thousands of years, you will wash away the lead, get rid of your troubles and fully enjoy the fullness and freedom of your soul.

Leaving Dunhuang, I was in a trance. The trip to Dunhuang is as unreal as a dream. Dunhuang is a mystery, a wisdom that can never be reached.

To be continued, please look forward to "Red Star Shining on the Millennium Mogao Grottoes in China (VI), a thrilling human treasure (II)"

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