Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - The genius designer was completely blocked after his scandalous information was exposed, and he became famous with the "Corpse Bride" series
The genius designer was completely blocked after his scandalous information was exposed, and he became famous with the "Corpse Bride" series
As darkness falls, a wedding comes quietly.
The guests are gathered, and the groom in white is waiting for his lover.
The strange thing is that the joy that should be seen when getting married cannot be seen on everyone's face, and they are lifeless.
The bride is here, and she is pacing with her hand-held skirt, but no matter how delicate and elegant she is, she can't resist the mysterious and eerie feeling that hits her face.
Weirdness and depression are the themes of this wedding. In other words, is it a wedding or a funeral?
In an instant, the water surface surged up, and everyone present fell into the deep sea together.
The bride and the white gauze are entangled together, and there is only boundless suffocation.
Large swathes of scarlet criss-crossed the water, following the groom closely, never ending.
Even if everyone is saved, the pain will not disappear. Only the deep kiss of the bride and groom will be engraved in eternity.
Broken, but romantic, like an illusory dream.
This is a fragment of the fashion brand Maison Margiela's 2021 spring and summer series. The full name of the series is Sealed With A Loving Kiss, sealed with a kiss of love. Some netizens also called it the "zombie bride".
The creative director is one of the legendary masters in the modern fashion circle - "Pirate Lord" John Galliano
You can see why he has the nickname "Pirate Lord" just by looking at his attire. He is unique. With his mustache and long hair, coupled with his cool and arrogant temperament, he really looks like a Pirates of the Caribbean heading to the sea for adventure.
No one would argue that the Pirate is a fashion genius. His entire collection was purchased just after graduation. During his 15 years at Dior, he created one classic after another, single-handedly creating the golden age of Dior.
His style is bold and avant-garde, full of uniqueness, and vividly displays his imagination. At the same time, he likes to incorporate oriental elements into the design. His dignified and classic designs present another unique look.
But in addition to his brilliant achievements, he has also made many mistakes and controversies against him.
The pirate's life is as gorgeous and absurd as his design.
The Pirate Lord was born in Gibraltar in 1960. His father was a local plumber and his mother was a dance teacher from Spain, dancing passionate flamenco.
His mother always likes to dress him in the best clothes and dress him up carefully no matter what the occasion.
Because of this, the pirate master was often laughed at by others when he was a child, but his mother's habit also subtly cultivated his sense of fashion.
When he was six years old, his family moved to London and attended an elite boys' school. Unfortunately, he did not excel academically.
However, under the influence and encouragement of his mother, Pirate discovered his talent and passion for design very early and began studying textile design at the age of 16.
He also lived up to the expectations of his family. At the age of 20, he was directly admitted to Central Saint Martins, one of the top art and design schools in the UK.
In 1984, he graduated with a first-class honors degree in fashion design, completing the life script of an ordinary worker's child making a counterattack into the art world.
His graduation design was inspired by the French Revolution, and it can already be seen that he has a wild and unruly style.
More importantly, the pirate master not only graduated from a top university with this costume, but also made a name for himself in the fashion circle for the first time. His works were spotted by the owner of a high-end fashion store in London, and he bought them all for display. Display in the window.
For a newly graduated college student to be so favored shows how extraordinary the pirate's talent and aesthetics are.
Not long after, he started his own brand. But after all, this is business. Even if the pirate master has great design skills, he can't compete with the trivialities of running a business.
Soon, he went bankrupt due to his lack of business acumen and his usual extravagant spending.
His career path to this point has been a lot of hardships, but he did not sink for too long, and then moved to Paris to seek opportunities and want to revive his own brand.
But things were unsatisfactory. In Paris, although he had held fashion exhibitions and was somewhat famous, financial problems had always been a big problem. To put it simply, the clothes were too "artistic" and couldn't be sold, so they were in trouble again.
It also led him to meet a bunch of social celebrities. These operations played a crucial role in the pirate master's subsequent career.
After alleviating the money problem, he penetrated into the upper class society, and coupled with the pirate's outstanding ability, he quickly attracted the attention of the LVMH group boss, and was appointed as the creative director of Givenchy in 1995. Director.
Six months later, his first couture collection was exhibited at the Stade de France and received unanimous praise from the outside world.
Falling from high places to the bottom, then getting up again to welcome warm applause. In the past few years, the pirate master has experienced a dramatic life transition.
However, his cooperative relationship with Givenchy did not last long. After Dior's chief designer Gianfranco Ferre retired in 1996, LVMH people immediately transferred the pirate to Dior, and a brilliant era of brilliance began.
During his tenure at Dior, the pirate's reputation continued to skyrocket and he became the most popular figure in the world. Dior also made a fortune and doubled its sales several times.
He is Dior’s breath of fresh air and the “life-saving straw” that helps Dior change its old stereotypes. His wild imagination has attracted the attention of countless young people.
The first work he designed after coming to Dior was a blue silk dress, and the person wearing it was Princess Diana.
Every haute couture show since then has been even more stunning, exaggerated and luxurious, and also full of elegance and romance.
In Dior’s first show in 1997, the autumn and winter exhibition "Flowers of the Sea", a series of unique cheongsam designs were eye-opening.
In the 1998 spring and summer haute couture, the pirate master led the audience to watch a grand and magnificent banquet, and the vigorous splendor was displayed at this moment.
It seems that we have truly entered the era of luxury and wealth among nobles and celebrities.
I experienced the "wild flowers gradually become charming to the eyes".
The ultimate prosperity of the metropolis is taking place on the show floor.
The swaying skirt highlights Dior's elegant ladylike style, but the pirate's unique wild absurdity can be seen in the makeup, matching and other details.
The supermodels on the catwalk also have their own merits. They may be gorgeous and coquettish.
Or flattering.
Or domineering.
Or ghostly and evil nature.
The following is the 2009 Autumn and Winter show of Mr. Pirate's personal brand
The ghost brides came with exquisite makeup and walked through the snow.
Leave an enchanting aura in the world.
Everywhere is a display of Pirate Master's unique rebellious style, which has fascinated tens of thousands of fans and even celebrities.
Nicole Kidman, Celine Dion, Charlize Theron, Cate Blanchett and other big-name stars have worn his designs.
Supermodels such as Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss became his close friends.
It can be said that the Pirate Lord revolutionized the entire Dior at that time and shocked the fashion circle.
As the saying goes, everything that rises must fall. Falling from the heights of the altar only requires one reason.
In 2011, a video of the pirate being drunk and causing trouble was exposed. He attacked others with racial slurs in a Paris cafe: "I love Hitler, people like you will die today. Your mother, you All their ancestors will be gassed to death."
When the news came out, it shocked the whole of France. Only then did people suddenly realize that the talented designer turned out to be a racist. They continued to dig deeper and found out. He had long been unable to withstand the huge pressure of life and work, and became an addict of alcohol and drugs.
In France, it is illegal to express such thoughts, so the pirate was arrested and found guilty by the authorities and fined 6,000 euros.
Dior fired him almost immediately after learning about this incident. The fashion circle quickly banned the pirate master, and he fell to the bottom again.
His explanation for this is: "At that moment in my life, I had become an alcoholic with amnesia. I can't remember what happened."
After the incident broke out In his first interview, the pirate also expressed his shameful attitude: "This is the worst thing I have ever said in my life, but I didn't mean it..." and said that he is trying to understand history and is learning every day. How many people were hurt.
However, people always have to be responsible for what they have said, and some prices must be paid.
But not everyone gave up on him. Condé Nast Chairman Newhouse sent him emails every day while he was in the rehabilitation hospital, hoping that he could overcome this difficulty and learn from it.
Supermodel Kate Moss still asked him to help design her wedding dress after he was banned. The pirate was very grateful for this and said bluntly: Kate Moss saved me.
Anna Wintour also helped introduce him to other brands to work at Oscar de la Renta.
Nearly two years after the incident, Pirate Master came back and held his first show, but it was not popular with everyone. Some media headlines wrote "Designer who insulted Jews" in capital letters. It became a lifelong mark on him.
Later, the president of the international fashion group OTB was unwilling to waste his talents, so he asked him to work under Maison Margiela, where he continues to this day.
At Maison Margiela, Mr. Pirate still creates many excellent works, but they seem to be less arrogant and more simple than before.
In other words, it is more "mature" and puts the edge into the sheath.
But the idea is immortal, and the works of Pirate Master can still reflect his psychedelic themes, just like the bride and groom sinking into the sea in "Corpse Bride", which is endlessly memorable.
All the way up and down all the way, the pirate, who will turn 62 this year, has experienced several ups and downs. After being banned, he once again returned to the public eye with his excellent artistic ability.
He may not be able to come back from the Dior era, but there are still many people who are still looking forward to the future, as before, that he will continue to use his unbridled imagination to create romantic and luxurious clothes that are unique to him. , a work full of connotation.
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