Old house photography

Qingshan ancient town is shrouded in misty rain.

Traveling at this time must be very different from the scenery under clear skies.

Jingdezhen in the rain is quieter and simpler.

It's like crossing back to an ancient village.

Today, we will take you to explore Jingdezhen in the rain.

Appreciate the unique beauty of Jiangnan rainy season

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Sanbao taoyi village

If you have a chance to visit slowly, it will be another story worth telling. After all, the most touching thing about a place is never just the scenery here, but the people here.

Walking in the downtown area of Jingdezhen is as ordinary as an ordinary city, but more than ten miles southeast of the city is the magical Sanbao Ceramic Village.

△ Every studio in the pottery village seems to have endless stories.

Ceramic artist Li built his dream residence at the foot of the mountain more than 20 years ago. At first, there was only an old farmhouse and ceramic workshop here.

Seemingly ordinary farmhouse, there is a hole in the door, brown tile wall, old wood, and various porcelain bottles and pots are embedded in the wall.

△ Earth wall, clay pot, a simple and fashionable Sambo village.

There is a stream introduced from outside in the yard, and the water is crystal clear. Some lying bowls and tiles were buried in the mud. The ancient wooden farm tools were quietly put aside, and the faded red Spring Festival couplets were stuck on the door. The vegetation is deep and the moss marks are silent. As long as time flows as usual, everything is casual, simple and unorganized, but it is natural. Now it is called "Xanadu", where you can live and eat delicious food.

Opposite is Sanbao International Ceramic Village Art Museum. In the most primitive houses, you can often see the most contemporary works of art.

Walking up the mountain, clouds accompany Qingxi, and the creative bases of various ceramists' studios and ceramic brands are scattered among the green hills along the way.

This is an extension of Sanbao Ceramic Village-Sanbao International Porcelain Valley. The whole Sambo should be a living museum, and almost everyone living here is related to ceramics.

Opening an old magazine in the pottery cafe, I saw this sentence: "There is a place where the ordinary youth is called Jingdezhen, the literary youth is called Changnan Ancient Town, and the second-rate youth said that they came here to travel and touch porcelain ... In addition to making life better, Jingdezhen has been refreshed in addition to its long history. There are new and old, small and beautiful, especially cool. "

△ The stream flows through the workshops in the valley, and the banks are dyed green.

I think Sambo Village, which is deeply involved, is such a unique place in the process of integration and collision. It not only has a quiet atmosphere like a paradise, but also breeds a ceramic art with a strong sense of modernity.

It is hidden in the deep mountains and valleys of the town, and there are often international exchange activities. Everything is so incredible and natural.

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The hometown of celadon

This hometown of blue and white porcelain is so peaceful that you can hardly see the traces of thousands of years. There are always children and people enjoying the cool under the big camphor tree at the entrance of the village, and a group of ducks swing from the field.

Want to go further, the next day my friend took me to the pit. Pit is not a pit but a village.

Only a few kilometers out of the city, in the suburbs, I realized that the word "Qinghe" in the sentence "Early summer is still peaceful and wheatgrass is not resting" is well used. There are no other words to describe seasons and climate now. The morning glow is faint through the flowers and leaves, and the soft wind blows through the ear. Everything in the sky is getting clearer and clearer, but there is no summer heat, green warmth but no desire.

△ Under the big camphor tree at the entrance of the village, I listened to my grandfather talking about my childhood.

Surrounded by mountains on three sides, the terrain is long and narrow. Xiaonanhe, a tributary of the Yangtze River, slowly passes around the village. Jiang Qi's "Ji Tao" in the Southern Song Dynasty records: "into the pit's stone and mud are exquisitely made, and the production of lakes, ridges and boundary fields is second to none."

△ In Jinkeng Village in early summer, lotus flowers are dotted in the fields.

There are some early blooming flowers in the wetland. A few faint red flowers are light and soft. Fortunately, they are far away, otherwise they will overflow and spread into the transparency of the air.

Egrets rise and fall from time to time in the dark blue background, and the slightly dull green is inexplicably lively.

Several old houses in Tanabe are "Dong Jiao School", a non-profit organization for ceramic cultural exchange. I heard a burst of laughter when I walked in. "Come on, drink tea and eat apricots. It's a little sour, but it relieves the heat." Miss Huang is busy greeting a group of guests. They are from archaeology, and they "farm when they are busy, and do archaeology when they are free" in the village. Rather, they changed their lives like a peach blossom garden. Not long ago, Jingdezhen was hit by a rainstorm. They heard from friends that the street was like crossing a river and entering a pit village.

Along the wooden plank road, you can walk to the restored ancient water pheasant and follow the path. Deep in the forest, several Song Dynasty kiln sites and kilns were buried by mud and weeds. They are silent, hiding traces of history.

△ The little girl selling cucumbers has a pure smile.

Green is a young color, and it is the color of the East. The ancient book says that "everything is like color".

Don't look at the "Qing" strokes, but it is the weight of mountains and rivers. It falls at the beginning of the growth of heaven and earth, and it adds lightness to life. It needs no explanation, it is everywhere.

The high-quality porcelain stone in the pit created Jingdezhen blue-and-white porcelain in the Song Dynasty, which is "white and flawless, so it is called Rao Yu". The shadow of Hutian kiln in Jingdezhen combines the pure fetal quality of white porcelain and the moist enamel of celadon, and it is also a fresh beauty with white in the green. For example, a shower at this time almost dyed the whole south with a thin layer of light blue.

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Yao riverside ancient town

A dragon boat flooded the old walls and tiles on both sides of the Yaohe River, which belongs to Fuliang County of Jingdezhen and was once the birthplace of Jingdezhen ceramic industry.

△ Sky Blue and other misty rain, Yaoli is waiting for you.

When it rained, I said goodbye to a friend and went to live in the ancient town by the Yao River.

In the early Song Dynasty, there were many porcelain kilns, commonly known as "Kiln Plum". In the late Qing Dynasty, after the decline of porcelain industry, it was renamed as "Yaoli".

The ancient town can also be regarded as a pan-Huizhou circle. Both the scenery of the Lion Mountain, which combines Chinese and Western styles, and the typical Hui-style Cheng ancestral hall can describe the prosperity of the past.

The rain in the ancient town will not spoil the fun. The tall and deep old house just put a table card, and the spectators seem to be more energetic than the players. My mother-in-law took advantage of the light rain and carried a bundle of firewood on the mountain. If it doesn't stop raining tomorrow morning, it will be a problem to make a stove.

"What's there to shoot?" I'm holding a camera, and that's the most I get. Maybe it's just poetry for us, but it's nothing more than day after day for them.

The night rain filled the Yaohe River, the morning mist erased the outline of the distant mountains, the forest breathed the blue breath, and the air was filled with the smell of grass.

I walked back and forth by the river with an umbrella for a long time, and I didn't care about the rain. The rain between heaven and earth falls in the silence between heaven and earth, and all the hesitation will be washed away, melting into the joy of the mountain stream, and singing every splash is certain.

△ The bustling pier in the past is now lonely.

Look at the landscape carefully in the rain, and so should the village. With the dense water vapor, turquoise is moist and quiet.

After the heavy rain, the distant mountains and Muqiaoxi near the village were not caught in the fog and rain, like a wet turquoise landscape. Those azurite, stone green and flower green are intertwined and become subtle colors with different shades.

Obviously there is no one to wait for, and I don't like singing, but I can't help humming "misty rain is like sky blue, I'm waiting for you …". Who told me that I love mountains, the temperature of the wind and the sound of rain falling?

Everything is so clean, leaving no trace, as if there should be no worries. Until they got back to the inn soaked, a group of northern uncles next door were still watching the rain outside while playing cards, muttering, "It's been raining, and I won't tell them what they missed."

Yaoli is not far from the north, but near the south. Lishutan deposit is the most representative kiln site found at present, and its firing time is between the middle Tang Dynasty and the middle and late Ming Dynasty. To the south is Gaoling, where the high-quality porcelain clay-kaolin is produced.

△ blanking and trimming ... this is a process of dialogue between people and mud and knives.

On the way to Gaoling, you must cross the East River. There is an ancient pier on the river bank to transport porcelain stones, which has naturally become a market over time. The wharf made of stone in the past has long been a place for women to wash clothes. Perhaps only the dent on the stone road that was run over by a wheelbarrow will remind me of the busy days of transporting ore to and from Gaoling.

△ After the hibiscus flower, the ancient town ushered in the rainy season.

Some old houses facing the street have been painted white, and brand-new shop names are painted on the walls, as if flashing the desire for rebirth of old streets due to tourism. Can't even the water of the East River, which has been flowing for thousands of years, be satisfied?

In any case, those who walk across the stone bridge every day, though in a hurry, never hesitate.

But after all, we are passers-by, and the day we left has cleared up. In the clear and almost transparent season, some Chinese parasol trees have grown leaves, and the sour taste of the first plum has not overflowed their cheeks.

During the rainy season, there will be sunshine falling, and every inch of sunshine is worth cherishing. This is a dream, a hope and an expectation. Make an appointment with a friend next time. Next time, I will try to make a porcelain by myself, refining mud, making blanks, glazing and firing. ...

Pour beauty and calmness into the sagger, all the burning and scars are the chords of life, and a pair of ordinary hands hold out a celadon, which can touch the original business of heaven and earth. I would like to spend more time getting to know this purest and most attractive ceramic city.

★ voyage recommendation ★

How to get there

Self-driving: It takes about 6-7 hours to take the expressway from Shanghai to Jingdezhen.

High-speed rail: Shanghai has a direct high-speed rail to Jingdezhen, but there are fewer flights, twice a day. You can also take the high-speed train to Wuyuan and transfer, which is more flexible. Starting from Beijing, you need to change trains in Shangrao or Hangzhou, and the whole journey takes more than eight hours.

Plane: Shanghai has direct flights to Jingdezhen airport every day; There are about two direct flights from Beijing to Jingdezhen every week.

stay in

Jingdezhen Taoxichuan International Trade Hotel

Located in Taoxichuan Ceramic Culture Creative Park, it is a high-end boutique hotel with the theme of ceramic culture. It was transformed from Cosmic Porcelain Factory, one of the former top ten state-owned porcelain factories, and it has a sense of industrial design. The atrium has water features, solid wood furniture, paintings of Jingdezhen old porcelain factory hanging on the wall, and the artistic atmosphere of ceramics is everywhere. When you go out, you can visit Taoxichuan, and there are ceramic night market stalls on weekends, which is very convenient for shopping and eating.

Address: Xinchang West Road 150 Taoxichuan Creative Park.

sensitive

Hangyixian space yixi restaurant

The owner of the restaurant is also a designer. The whole restaurant embodies the light and shadow in detail, and has a good aesthetic space design. The dishes are also amazing, belonging to creative dishes, and lime perch and sour soup beef are worth recommending.

Address:No. Sanbao Road 1 10

Shiwai taoyuan restaurant

The restaurant is located in the old house of Sanbao Ceramic Village, with a unique environment, simple and quiet, and a strong rural atmosphere. The restaurant is a local flavor of Jingdezhen, belonging to farm dishes. It's worth a try because the ingredients are fresh, but some dishes are spicy.

Address: Silijia, Sanbao Village

Xun Wei sanbao

Located in Sanbao International Porcelain Valley, a small farmhouse facing the countryside and style, with a hole in it. The dishes are mainly local farm dishes, and the taste is very authentic.

Address: No.260 Sanbao Road, Jingcheng Town

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Text/green note

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New Media Editor/Strawberry Girl