What's the difference between mobile phone photography and SLR photography?

A camera is basically a box with a hole in its body and a light sensor in it. If the right light can be projected onto the photoreceptor through the hole, you will get a correctly exposed photo. If there is too much or too little light, then you get a piece of garbage. In the program mode, you already know that you can control the sensitivity of the photoreceptor by adjusting the sensitivity (ISO), but in the manual program, you can also control it by adjusting the total light input, which requires the shutter and aperture.

-shutter:

The shutter determines the opening time of the hole in your camera. If you drive for a long time, more light will enter; If it is turned on for a short time, the light will be less. It's that simple.

It's not just that. High-speed shutter means that you can capture fast movements, such as athletes' movements, splashing water droplets and so on. The disadvantage is that there is too little light entering the camera, so your photos will become very dark. Instead, you can use a slow shutter to compensate for the lack of light. The longer that hole is opened, the more light will enter, right? But there is also a disadvantage here, that is, when using a slow shutter, if you or your subject moves, your photo will appear dynamic blur.

In automatic mode and program mode, the camera itself will determine the shutter speed. Sometimes the result is exactly what you want, and sometimes it is not. For example, the camera won't know that you want to capture a fast moving target. He only knows whether there is enough light to enter the camera to complete the exposure. When the camera is in manual mode, you control the shutter speed to get the photos you want.

You just need to turn the dial and pay attention to the numbers displayed on the LCD, and then you can adjust your shutter speed.

-Aperture:

When the shutter speed is equal to the opening time of the hole in the camera, the aperture represents the opening size of the hole.

The larger the aperture, the more light; The smaller the aperture, the less light. The size of the aperture is indicated by "f". Confusingly, a large F value represents the opening of a small hole, while a small F value represents a large hole. So f/4 is a large aperture but f/ 1 1 is a small aperture.

When the camera is in manual mode, press and hold the aperture button to adjust the aperture size, rotate the command dial, and observe the value displayed on the LCD.

You may want to use a large aperture in dark conditions, such as f/3.5, but this will have a negative impact: depth of field (DOF). The opening of a large hole (small F value) will give you a shallow depth of field, and a small hole (large F value) will give you a deep depth of field.

-Depth of field:

So what exactly does depth of field mean? Simply put, it is the clear visual range of the imaging picture. If the imaging range of the picture is large, this is what we call a large depth of field. If the range of clarity is very small, such as bust, the subject of the character is very clear, and the background is intentionally blurred (the background is blurred), which is shallow depth of field. A wonderful portrait often highlights the theme with a shallow depth of field, but when shooting scenery, you still want everything in the lens, so you often use a large depth of field.

So how do you get different depth of field effects? This is mainly through the relationship between aperture, focal length and shooting distance to obtain different depth of field:

The larger the aperture, the smaller the depth of field; The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field. (Note: The smaller the aperture value on the camera, the larger the aperture. For example, F 1.8 is greater than F5.6).

The shorter the focal length, the greater the depth of field; The longer the focal length, the smaller the depth of field;

The farther the shooting distance, the greater the depth of field; The closer the shooting distance, the smaller the depth of field.

By mastering these relationships, we can obtain the desired depth of field by flexibly changing the aperture, focal length and shooting distance.

-Comprehensive application of shutter aperture

Now you know these two parameters-shutter speed and aperture size, which have essentially the same function: to control the total amount of light entering the camera. You get as much light with a large aperture and a slow shutter as with a small aperture and a high speed shutter. You got it? A big hole with a short opening time is basically the same as a small hole with a long opening time. The result is almost the same amount of light entering the camera, or the same exposure.

So what's the difference? In fact, they are all among the side effects I mentioned. Sometimes you need a high-speed shutter to freeze an action, sometimes you need a large aperture to get a shallow depth of field, and so on. You need a certain amount of light to enter your camera, but in manual mode, you must decide the amount from other effects you want. In automatic mode and program mode, the camera usually chooses a moderate aperture and shutter for proper exposure, but this will not have any extreme parameters and will lose the opportunity of creation.

-Sensitivity

Remember, sensitivity (ISO) is also a factor. If you want to take a moving picture indoors, like this brave soldier in the air, you know you need to use a high-speed shutter. But you also know that you have to use this speed at the risk of not having enough exposure light. What should I do? Open your ISO! If you shoot in a dark indoor environment with high sensitivity, such as ISO800, your camera will no longer need much light. You should also set the aperture value to the maximum value: f3.5, or even f2.8 if the lens allows. If you do this as above, you can get accurate exposure photos while the high-speed shutter freezes the picture. Your photo may have some dry spots, and shallow depth of field will blur what is behind the athletes, but what about this? Talk is better than nothing. Photography is nothing more than a process of choice.

Another example. Suppose you want to take a picture of an outdoor portrait during the day. Shallow depth of field is exactly what we need at this time. Blur everything in the background to highlight the subject, so use a large aperture, at least f/4. In such a large open state, you may also put too much light into the camera, so that the photos are overexposed and even almost white. What should you do at this time? First, make sure you shoot with the lowest ISO. Secondly, use a high-speed shutter-try11000 per second. These parameters allow you to make correct exposure in large aperture and bright sunlight.

Don't worry about making mistakes! Try to take a picture, and then adjust it properly on the LCD behind the camera. Experienced photographers can estimate the basic accurate parameters of shooting in a specific environment, but even they will confirm it by looking at the photos.

-Shortcuts: priority mode

There are too many parameters to remember, especially for beginners. When preparing to take pictures, the F value, shutter speed and ISO value are too complicated. Maybe you even want to give up all this, just shoot in program mode and never study your camera again.

Never give up! Here are two shortcuts to reduce the parameters you need to consider and still get the photos you want. You may want to beat me up because I didn't introduce them to you earlier. These two shortcut keys are aperture priority mode ("A" or "Av") and shutter priority mode ("S" or "TV"-"Time" value).

For example, now you are filming basketball players. What do you care about most? Shutter speed. It is this parameter that can help you freeze him in the air. The only reason you care about the other two parameters is to compensate for the high-speed shutter. Using shutter priority mode, you can let your camera do these things for you. Turn the dial to "S" and tell your camera: I set the shutter speed and you adjust the aperture. Of course, you still need an appropriate ISO value, but your camera will calculate it-depending on the indoor light and the shutter speed you choose, at what aperture you can make the correct exposure. A piece of cake

The method of adjusting the shutter is the same as manual mode: turn the instruction dial and observe the digital changes on the LCD.

Aperture priority mode is basically the same. What do you care about taking a portrait in the bright sunshine? Aperture. This is a parameter that enables you to achieve a shallow depth of field effect. The only reason you adjust the shutter speed is for accurate exposure. Similarly, your camera can do some work for you. Turn the dial to "A" and tell your camera: I have chosen f/4 aperture, so you, Mr. Camera, will calculate the shutter speed I need. It's too simple. You still need to choose a suitable ISO, but the camera has calculated the correct shutter speed for you.

As far as aperture priority mode is concerned, aperture is the most important parameter, so you don't need to press the aperture key, just turn the command dial to see the numerical changes on the LCD.