Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - Why did the ancient people's pants split?
Why did the ancient people's pants split?
In modern spoken language, there is a brotherhood.
It's called "growing up with a pair of pants"
How did the ancients describe this friendship?
Around the eighth century BC.
The state of Qin has a military song with the following lyrics:
Have I nothing to wear? Jade boy newspaper
Have I nothing to wear? Zi zi tong ze
Have I nothing to wear? Zizi Shang Tong
-"The Book of Songs, National Style, Qin Feng and No Clothes"
Who said we had no clothes to wear?
I wear that shirt, underwear and petticoat with you.
This is exactly the same as "wearing a pair of pants"
However, comrades-in-arms can share robes, hats and dresses.
Why don't we wear a pair of pants?
Are comrades unwilling?
Fei Ye
Comrades said:
In this day and age, I don't have pants!
All right.
So, when did pants begin to appear?
The origin of pants
China's trousers originated in the northwest.
Archaeological materials show that as early as 3000 years ago,
In Xinjiang, there is almost no difference between crotch pants now.
The three Tang figurines in the picture below are either unearthed in Xinjiang or black.
The image of Kunlun slaves (some Kunlun slaves come from Southeast Asia and some from the Western Regions)
They are all wearing pants.
Painted pottery black dancing figurines in Tang Dynasty. Photography/arterial shadows
Male clay figurines on horseback in Tang Dynasty (unearthed in Xinjiang)
Painted pottery figurines of Kunlun slaves in Tang Dynasty. Photo courtesy/micrograph
Just don't wear pants.
The habit of not wearing pants can be traced back to the Neolithic Age.
Typical clothes at that time
Probably a whole piece of cloth wrapped around the body, not cut.
There are no sleeves, let alone pants.
Strangely, this simple and ventilated "vacuum packaging"
It's been around for thousands of years.
Until the era of the Book of Songs, it was generally "clothes under skirts"
Wearing a short jacket with narrow sleeves and a flowing skirt.
The above picture shows the bronze lamp in the Warring States Period (photo courtesy/micrograph). The humanoid lantern slave is wearing a short coat and trousers.
Portraits of Qi Huangong and Yan Zhuanggong in robes and sleeves. At that time, it was the privilege of the upper class to wear long clothes, and slaves and laborers put on elastic pants.
As we all know, there has been a "ritual and music system" since the Duke of Zhou.
The Zhou royal family has official clothes, oral administration and other official positions.
In order to adhere to the dress ceremony, the nobles
I can bear the pain of "old cold legs"
What about ordinary workers?
They don't have to bend down and walk in small steps.
But strut, even run and jump.
Pants are obviously more suitable.
This is also the case.
According to Mr Shen Congwen's textual research
Wearing a long skirt is the privilege of the upper class.
In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, "the ceremony collapsed and the music was bad"
Hunters, slaves and other low-level figures have put on primitive pants.
There are still differences between these pants and today's pants:
There is a waist in front and a crotch in the back.
Yes, they are open-backed pants.
The picture shows the "knife-swallowing picture" in the export painting People from All walks of life in the Street in the19th century, which shows the image of a street performer in the late Qing Dynasty. What is more conspicuous than his ability to swallow a knife is his "open-backed pants".
Embroidered butterfly pants, Su Qin began to write on his legs. Obviously, it can only be done by wearing open-backed pants barefoot. Photo courtesy/micrograph
Challenge and contempt from pants
The story of Jing Ke stabbing Qin is familiar to everyone:
Jing Ke first staged a "desperate situation" in Xianyang Palace of Qin State.
Then he had a thrilling hand-to-hand fight with the king of Qin in the hall.
Finally, the king of Qin cut off his left leg and injured eight places.
Jing Ke knew that great things could not be accomplished.
Then he sat on the edge of the pillar and laughed, "stand upside down and scold."
Then the guards rushed forward and killed Jing Ke.
"Sitting on a dustpan" means sitting on the ground with your legs crossed like a dustpan.
In the eyes of modern people, this is just an ordinary sitting posture.
But at that time, it was serious-
Because they are wearing open-backed pants.
When you sit in a basket, spring is easy to blow.
Therefore, this is a very impolite and impolite sitting posture.
Jing Ke and the King of Qin completed a life-and-death duel between men.
Knowing that he would die, he spread his legs.
Open your crotch and express your final contempt to the king of Qin.
In order to cover open-backed pants, ancient people sat in a polite way, which is "taste".
That is, kneeling-landing on both knees.
Legs on the ground, hips sitting on the legs to keep up, upper body straight.
This sitting posture is beautiful but uncomfortable.
Sedentary is tantamount to a cruel test of perseverance.
The ancients also used "calf nose?" D b kn handling risks
This is a kind of shorts with crotch.
Two round trouser legs, just like a cow's nose.
This is also the minimum for men to wear clothes
If a person wears a calf nose? swagger through the streets
If it weren't for extreme poverty
Is an eclectic rebellious youth.
As a kind of underwear, the calf nose is a mockery and resistance to the complicated clothing system.
Leg nose? As an exposed and vulgar underwear.
It is a mockery and resistance to the complicated clothing system.
Therefore, some romantic celebrities
I am used to using it as a prop to express my personality and protest against reality.
A perfect interpretation of dismissing powerful people.
Fashion in pants
Wide and fat pants, like bell bottoms now.
Comfortable and flexible, personable.
Very popular in the south, both men and women can.
Wearing a pair of trousers and boots is very fashionable.
This trend even spread to the army.
The soldiers also put on bell bottoms.
When you meet a task, tie up your trouser legs with a long belt.
You can move freely, which is called "tying pants"
Musicians wearing trousers in portrait bricks in the Southern Dynasties tied wide-mouth trousers at their knees with belts to facilitate exercise.
Tao Yong, a painted military attache in the Western Wei Dynasty, wore trousers, while soldiers wore trousers, so running and riding were not a problem.
Pottery figurines wearing wide-mouth trousers in the Northern Qi Dynasty were similar to "bell-bottoms" and were popular in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties.
Wide-mouth pants in Wei and Jin Dynasties were not only fashionable.
There may be another practical function.
Among some celebrities at that time, a kind of "drug" was popular.
-Wushi powder, which originated from the fairy medicine of seeking immortality in the Han Dynasty.
Nobles in Wei and Jin dynasties took it in succession, which was popular for a while.
Its medicinal properties are hot and dry, which makes people rosy and warm after taking it.
Even temporary hallucinations-actually chronic poisoning.
Some people have been paralyzed to death because of the untimely heat dissipation.
How to dissipate heat? One method is "dispersion"
That is, stick to walking in a cool and ventilated place.
Make the heat in the body dissipate.
The era when pants really shine is the Tang Dynasty.
From the powerful to the common people, regardless of gender, age and age.
The number of people wearing pants is everywhere.
In the Song Dynasty, open-backed pants "reappeared"
Open-crotch pants are worn outside closed-crotch pants.
This way of wearing, although it won't run out.
But the look and feel is worse than ordinary pants or skirts.
Why are people so obsessed with open-backed pants?
We can only make some guesses by comparing today's pants.
First, two pairs of open-backed pants overlap.
Uncomfortable, it also limits the activities of the lower body.
In addition, the front of modern trousers has a zipper.
It's very convenient to use, but the ancients didn't have a zipper, so they had to leave their crotch open.
The picture shows the unique Hezhe fish leather pants. There are many woolen trousers for nomadic people in the northwest, and most of them are cotton trousers in the Central Plains. In ancient times, when agriculture was dominant, Han people wore open-backed pants for a long time, and sometimes a pair of pants could reflect a nation's living habits. Photo courtesy/vision china
pants
Connection from crotch opening to crotch
Then go to the retro crotch.
The shape only changes between sizes.
Evolution has gone through thousands of years.
Think of the 80 s, the early days of reform and opening up.
Some city youths boldly put on fashionable bell bottoms.
In fact, compared with ordinary pants,
Bell bottoms are just a little wider.
But this small change has been criticized by countless people.
Even regarded as a local ruffian.
The teacher has scissors.
It is not uncommon to cut students' trouser legs at the school gate.
thus it can be seen that
A pair of trousers will cause an uproar.
This article comes from China Heritage (20 17 1 1).
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Editor in Charge/Chen Weifeng Photo Editor/Chen Jingzhe
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