How to prune grapes in spring

Question 1: How to prune and manage the vines in spring? (1) Spring is the season of grape germination, leaf spreading, vine elongation, heading, flowering and fruiting. From March to the middle and late April, grapes should be budded, fixed branches, flowered and protected from insects.

Bud retention: from March to the middle and late April, 70% ~ 80% of winter buds on fruiting branches generally germinate, so pay attention to bud retention at this time. Too many buds are left, which is easy to waste nutrients and the tree is weak, which is not conducive to fruit setting; However, if there are too few buds, it is easy to promote the vigorous growth of branches and vines, and it is easy to cause serious flower drop and fruit drop.

Bud smearing: Usually, when multiple buds are sprouted on one bearing branch, one bud is left every 15-20cm, 2-5 new shoots are left on each bearing branch, and the rest are erased from the base. When wiping buds, generally wipe off the non-spikelet buds or weak buds in the double buds, leaving only one tip in each bud eye. In order to ensure the yield, when the new shoots grow to 4-5 leaves, it can also be decided whether the first round of silk has spikes, but this will waste more nutrients.

Fixing branches and tying vines: Before the new branches bloom, leave 5 leaves on the spike for coring, and 8 leaves on the branches that have not blossomed for coring. After coring, the plant will sprout a large number of secondary branches, leaving only 1-2 top secondary branches and 2 leaves for repeated coring, and all other secondary branches will be erased. At the same time, it should be tied according to the growth of vines.

Ear treatment of flowers and fruits: In order to ensure the fruit-setting rate, the ear tip of flower ear15 is usually removed, and 0.3% boron fertilizer and 0.5% urea are sprayed at flowering stage. Five days after flowering, the ears with more fruits were artificially thinned and then bagged for protection.

Disease prevention: When grapes germinate 3-5 leaves, it is necessary to do a good job of disease prevention and spray them every 7- 10 days, especially after rain, to strengthen the protection of spraying drugs and pay attention to intertillage weeding. In this period, grape black pox and gray mold should be controlled. Black pox can be controlled by Dubang Fuxing 8000 times solution, and gray mold can be controlled by Su 1500 times solution. In addition, common drugs can also prevent diseases, such as carbendazim 800 times solution, mancozeb 800 times solution, zineb 800 times solution, etc.

Question 2: How to prune grapes in spring After grapes are unearthed in spring, you can prune branches and vines as needed. There are usually two situations:

(1) When pruning in winter, due to technical, manual or other reasons, the pruning is not carried out completely as required, and there are still problems in the pruning quality. So it needs to be cut again after it is unearthed in spring. (2) In the areas prone to freezing injury in winter, only the grapes are pre-cut in different degrees after autumn pruning, and more branches and vines are left for cold protection. After unearthed in the second year, according to the survival status of branches and buds after wintering, the plants were finally cut.

Before re-cutting, it is necessary to check the overwintering situation of grape bud eyes, judge the overwintering situation of plants buried in soil according to the survival percentage of bud eyes, and determine the load of bud eyes that should be reserved accordingly. Many varieties of European grapes often have a dead bud rate of 20% ~ 50% after overwintering. Replanting according to the specific conditions of plants after winter can better ensure the yield.

When re-pruning, in addition to the requirements of winter pruning, we should also pay attention to cutting off the unearthed bruised branches, removing dry and dead branches, and removing the residual branches and tendrils on the shelf.

Question 3: How to prune 1 grapes in spring can be divided into two aspects, that is, planting them in a large area and selling them as commercial grapes, or cultivating them in the courtyard for their own consumption.

To grow grapes in a large area and sell them as commercial grapes, it is necessary to buy some books or CDs, systematically study grape cultivation techniques, select varieties through market research, then try planting in small batches, accumulate practical experience, and then plant in large quantities.

Garden cultivation is relatively easy to eat by yourself, and the management technology is not so strict.

Grapes like light, high temperature, big water and big fertilizer, but it is easy to cause grape diseases if high temperature and high humidity are avoided.

Grapes are cold-tolerant, and can normally overwinter. When the lowest temperature is lower than-16℃, it is necessary to bury the soil for cold protection.

Grape cultivation, like flower cultivation and fruit tree planting, needs routine management, such as bud wiping, branch fixing, flower thinning, coring, harrowing, watering and fertilizing, insect catching and disease prevention, and then grape picking, winter cutting and planting for cold protection.

Sunshine is the most important thing. It must be planted in a sunny place, otherwise it will not grow normally, let alone blossom and bear fruit.

Water is also indispensable. Long-term drought will make vines mature and sleep prematurely.

Question 4: Grapes are not pruned in autumn, but can they be pruned in spring? You need to let the leaves grow before pruning. Pruning must be carried out from winter to March every year, and lignified vines must be pruned into the required shape according to different pruning systems. Vines that die in the middle of the year must also be replanted in winter. Pruning method: The most important job of pruning is winter pruning. Because the vines can't be harvested until at least the third year after planting, the pruning work in previous years mainly focused on cutting out the shape of the pruning system, and the pruning of grape production began after the third year. Because of the complexity of pruning, it can only be done manually. There are hundreds of bracts on vines before pruning every year. Grape growers prune according to the pruning system and the number of bracts that each vine must keep to control the yield. Because if some bracts are not removed, not only the quality of the grapes produced is not good, but also the aging speed of the vines will be accelerated. The essence of grape planting is to balance the growth of grape branches and leaves and the growth of grape fruits. On the one hand, there should be enough leaves for photosynthesis to make nutrients, on the other hand, the leaves should not be too lush to consume the nutrients needed for grape growth. Pruning and pruning vines is an important way to maintain this balance. In order to match different grape varieties and natural environment, the pruning system has developed many different styles to meet the needs. Each pruning system has its own unique pruning method, branch and vine binding method and various suitable planting techniques.

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Question 6: How to prune the vines? 1. Choose a main vine in the first year of fan-shaped potted grape planting, and when it grows to a height of 30 cm -40 cm, leave 5-6 leaves for coring; According to this method, the extended branches are repeatedly cored; Secondary branches within the range of 10 cm from the base of the main vine should be smoothed in time, 3-5 robust secondary branches should be selected from the middle and upper parts, and 4-5 leaves should be left for repeated coring; The remaining secondary branches can be re-cored with 1 leaf -2 leaves. Prune the grapes when they are taken off the shelf in winter, and cut off the main vine for about 1 m; As a result, the secondary branch of the mother branch was pruned by 2-3 short branches; Sparse the remaining secondary tips. In the second year, 6-8 new shoots with fruit ears were selected and tied on a fan-shaped frame. Leave 6-8 leaves on the ear for coring; Leaves 1 leaves are repeatedly cored at the secondary tip -2 leaves. 2. In the first year of potted grapes in funnel frame, 3-4 new shoots are selected as main vines, which are tied vertically upwards and evenly distributed on the frame surface, and the tips are picked at about 1 m.. Can be used as the secondary branch of fruiting mother branch culture, leaving 4-5 leaves for repeated coring; Cut off the sub-tips that are too dense and weak. Prune the grapes when they are taken off the shelves in winter. If the main vine is strong and mature, it can be kept long, but the total length is lower than the frame surface. Pruning the secondary branches on the main vine that can be used as bearing mother branches; Secondary branches that cannot be used as fruiting mother branches should be cut off. If the main vine is not strong enough and there are no secondary branches that can be used as fruiting mother branches, it should be appropriately cut short and the fruiting mother branches should be cultivated in the second year. In the second year, if there are fruiting mother branches on the main vine, 5-8 leaves are left above the new shoot for coring, and 1-2 leaves are left on the secondary shoot for repeated coring. If there is no fruiting mother branch on the main vine, extend the branch and pick the core in time, and choose strong new shoots and leave 4-5 leaves for repeated picking. Leaves 1 leaves are repeatedly cored at the secondary tip -2 leaves. The winter cutting method is the same as before. In the spring of the third year, the branches should be thinned as early as possible, and the new shoots bearing 10- 12 should be kept, and the rest are the same as before.

Question 7: Grapes are not pruned in winter. Spring pruning needs to grow leaves before pruning.

Pruning must be carried out from winter to March every year, and lignified vines must be pruned into the required shape according to different pruning systems. Vines that die in the middle of the year must also be replanted in winter.

Pruning method:

The most important job of pruning is winter pruning. Because the vines can't be harvested until at least the third year after planting, the pruning work in previous years mainly focused on cutting out the shape of the pruning system, and the pruning of grape production began after the third year. Because of the complexity of pruning, it can only be done manually. There are hundreds of bracts on vines before pruning every year. Grape growers prune according to the pruning system and the number of bracts that each vine must keep to control the yield. Because if some bracts are not removed, not only the quality of the grapes produced is not good, but also the aging speed of the vines will be accelerated.

The essence of grape planting is to balance the growth of grape branches and leaves and the growth of grape fruits. On the one hand, there should be enough leaves for photosynthesis to make nutrients, on the other hand, the leaves should not be too lush to consume the nutrients needed for grape growth. Pruning and pruning vines is an important way to maintain this balance. In order to match different grape varieties and natural environment, the pruning system has developed many different styles to meet the needs. Each pruning system has its own unique pruning method, branch and vine binding method and various suitable planting techniques.

Question 8: How to prune grapes in winter? Grapes are usually cut in spring, but a lot of grape branches are pruned in winter. Therefore, if you want to cut grapes, you must spend the winter. Can I cut it in winter? After several years of experiments, the effect of cutting grapes in greenhouse in winter is good, the survival rate is high, the root system is strong, and the growth period in Miao Zhuang is long in the second year. 1. First, put rich soil on the lower part of the flowerpot (half the height of the flowerpot) (the size depends on the number of cuttings), and then fill it with plain soil. 2. Cut the grape into cuttings of about 10 cm, leaving 3 ~ 4 buds on it, and cut them into horseshoes at the lower part of 0.5 cm buds. 3. Insert the cuttings into the soil with a spacing of 4 cm, and it is best not to fall down after watering. After inserting it, spray it with a watering can and put it in a greenhouse at 17℃. 4. Spray it with a watering can when it is dry. 5. When the upper bud begins to sprout, it means that the lower incision has healed and is ready to take root; When the leaves are released, it means that the lower part has taken root. After a winter, the roots are full, and the next spring you can go to the fields or go directly to the basin. Because of the long growth period, vines can grow to more than 2 meters if the grape seedlings in the field are well managed.

Question 9: How to transplant grape cutting seedlings in spring to observe the changes of cutting branches: After cutting, the buds will be exposed to the sand bed for growth about 10 days; In about 20 days, adventitious roots are born on the nodes where buds grow; After 35 days, the buds grow into leaves. According to these characteristics, it is known that cutting glucose is successful.

In view of the above cutting methods, it should be noted that the key to successful cutting is to bury the newly germinated buds shallowly (about 1cm under the sand bed) in moist fine sand. If buried deeply, it will make it difficult for buds to break through the sand bed and eventually fail to grow.

Question 10: Kneel for help! I planted several vines and I don't know how to prune them! There are too many branches and vines reserved in 50 minutes, which grow badly and need to be pruned again.

Leave 2-3 main vines on the first tree, each with a new bud, and cut off the upper part; The second tree keeps the sprouted main vine and cuts off the upper part in front of the bud. Cut off all the other branches.