Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - The significance of Huian's daughter

The significance of Huian's daughter

Hui 'an Women's Basic Introduction Hui 'an Women are a special ethnic group on the seaside of Huidong Peninsula in Hui 'an County, Quanzhou, Fujian Province. They are famous at home and abroad for their peculiar costumes and wedding customs. Hui 'an women, in a narrow sense, are actually Huidong women, mainly distributed in the suburbs of Chongwu Town in the east of Hui 'an, Fujian Province, as well as Shanxia, Jingfeng and Xiaoyan townships, and are authentic Han people. According to the local people, they moved here from the Central Plains hundreds of years ago. Because of the windproof life by the sea, they wore colorful headscarves and orange hats. There are colorful ornaments woven with Kobanawa on the flower towel. Wearing tight and short clothes, revealing the stomach; The lower body wears particularly loose and fat pants, and the belt is tied under the navel. Nowadays, whether in the bustling streets of Putian, on the charming island of Dongshan, or in the noisy market of Zhangpu, they can often be seen wearing strange clothes. Some people say it's a minority, others say it's Han nationality. There are only tens of thousands of people in seven villages around here. Although they only account for a small part of the population of Hui 'an County, they have attracted extensive attention from many scholars at home and abroad. Their images have entered the screen, books, newspapers and staff with the photographer's camera lens, poetry and music, and have been moving from China to the world. [Edit this paragraph] The special costumes of Hui 'an women's clothing A careful observation of the historical evolution of Hui 'an women's clothing shows that the colors and styles of Hui 'an women's clothing are similar to those of many ethnic minorities in China. For example, they wear hats, which are a bit like Li and Jing. Their jackets are especially like Dai costumes in Xishuangbanna, Yunnan. Huian women like to wear blue tops and black pants. From the color point of view, it is similar to the clothes of Yunnan aquarium. On holidays, women wear butterfly-shaped hairstyles, because butterflies are the totem worshipped by ancient Baiyue people. What is the relationship between Huian women and ancient Baiyue people? People have different opinions. Some people do say this for two main reasons. One is that in the ten years after 195 1 in this area, traces of the life of a few ancient Baiyue ethnic groups were discovered, and so-called Neolithic sites were also found on the mountain of Dashanza Village where Hui 'an women lived. According to archaeological analysis, more than two thousand years ago, there were ancient Baiyue people living here in Fujian, mainly Fujian people and Vietnamese people. Hui 'an women's clothing culture has a long history, and its formation and development process has always been a topic of concern for anthropologists and folklore experts at home and abroad. There are various legends about its origin, but there is no conclusion at present. According to historical records, in the middle and late Qing Dynasty, women in Huidong wore black or purple long-sleeved cardigans and black trousers. The length, chest, waist and back are wide, and the lower edge is slightly arched, similar to the popular "doctor's shirt" in Qing Dynasty. The difference is that the cuffs are narrow and the sleeves are lengthened, so the name "sleeve shirt", also called "rolled sleeve shirt", is very interesting, in order to let the bride lift her long sleeves when she enters the bridal chamber to hide her blushing face; After 3 days, it was turned over and fixed at half of the long sleeve. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, all parts of the "sleeve jumpsuit" were slightly contracted, the radian of the body was lengthened, the width of the arm circumference was widened and bent outward, and the new climbing of the waist China was reduced. The two were connected together, and the cuffs were wrapped around the blue cloth edge. The embroidery pattern on the collar changed from simple to complex, and the colored cloth under the collar root changed to triangle. Embroidered two square black and dark brown silk fabrics on both sides of the middle line of the chest and back, and each side was inlaid with a tricolor cloth, which was renamed as "embroidered shirt". Pants are "big folded pants", also called "big tube pants", commonly known as "Chinese pants". Pants are usually made of black cloth, but blue ones are also useful. The width of the trouser leg is about 1.2 feet, the trouser head is about 2 feet, and the edge of the trousers is sewn with 5 inches of blue cloth. Its style has not changed much since the middle and late Qing Dynasty, but the material has changed from coarse cloth in the old days to universal black silk today. Huidong women's clothing has always attached importance to the part above the waist, especially the headdress, which is the most prominent and varied, and there are obvious differences in headdresses of different occasions and ages. A hundred years ago, from the late Qing Dynasty to the 1920s, women in Hui 'an wore a coat with a wide waist and chest, with a knee-length hem and a pleated skirt at the waist. This kind of clothing is nothing unusual in ancient times. At that time, the trouser legs were very spacious, which was similar to the trousers now. Men and women in rural areas all over China wear pants that Han people often wear. At that time, women wore headdresses weighing 65,438+00 kilograms instead of hats and headscarves. Even newly married and barren women wear black veil when they go out, in order to avoid meeting strangers and their husbands. This black veil is only taken off when sleeping, even when couples turn off the lights when sleeping. It makes some couples meet on the road, and the husband doesn't recognize each other as his wife. By the 1940s and the Republic of China, great changes had taken place in the style of women's wear in Huian. The original knee-length coat hem is gradually shortened to the arm, but it is not short enough to show the navel. At this time, women's headdresses have become wrapped in black cloth, without wearing flower headscarves or hats. The change of women's wear in Huian is obvious, that is, after 1949, the tops are getting shorter and shorter. Who invented this? It is said that this change came from the Great Leap Forward of 1958. At that time, young and middle-aged women in the county gathered to build Niaotan Reservoir. It is in hard work that women in Hui 'an have to learn from women in other areas and wear headscarves and hats in order to keep out the wind and rain. Unexpectedly, this dress never took off again and became a striking landscape. Nowadays, with the progress of the times and the influence of foreign culture, the dress of women in Huian has quietly changed. Young Huian women's tops are no longer short enough to show their navel, and their trousers are no longer wide lanterns, but their golden hats and colorful headscarves remain the same, still a unique landscape. Most of the new generation of Huian women have gone to school, accepted new ideas and new things, and freed themselves from the backward and conservative lifestyle. Many young women moved from fishing villages to cities, engaged in commerce, transportation, going out to work, and embarked on their own new lives.