Powershot sx230 hs asking for shooting tips, settings such as sensitivity and focal length, aperture and shutter

Various environmental shooting parameter settings

1. Take close-ups of static small things, such as flowers, birds, and insects:

Use Av file, the best aperture At f5.6 or below, the focal length is preferably above 50, and try to shoot within 1m to blur the background!

If the light is good, ISO100, if the light is bad, ISO is preferably within 400.

2. Photographing people:

Basically, use a larger aperture (within f5.6) and a focal length of more than 50mm. The shooting distance depends on the whole body, half body, and headshot. , blur the background, use Av file!

If the light is good, iso100, if the light is bad, it should be within iso400.

Use tracking shots of people in motion to reflect the sense of movement (see the shooting of moving objects below for details)!

3. Scenery shooting:

Av mode, use appropriate aperture, f8 or above, the focal length is arbitrary, but generally there is distortion at the wide-angle end, use it as appropriate.

4. Shooting night scenes:

Use a tripod, Av setting, custom white balance or incandescent light, an aperture above f8, a small aperture can make the light appear like stars, and use reflectors Use the plate pre-up function to reduce camera shake caused by the lift of the reflector after pressing the shutter; and use the square cover on the strap to cover the viewfinder to prevent stray light from entering from behind and affecting the image quality; within ISO200, try to lengthen the exposure time , this can make some people who walked by accidentally disappear from the screen, leaving no traces and purifying the scene!

For example, if you are taking a picture of a square with people coming and going, you can use a very small aperture of about f20 and iso100. In this way, the exposure time will be very long, so the moving figures will not remain in the photo! The square will be clean!

5. Shooting fireworks:

Use the shutter release cable and B shutter to create the effect of multiple overlapping fireworks!

6. Shoot moving things:

When the light is good: Av mode, the aperture size should be adjusted accordingly; use an aperture above f8 to get a large depth of field effect, use a small aperture to get a shallow depth of field effect effect;

If you want to take a very dynamic effect, you can use Tv mode, the shutter speed is about 1/30, focus and press the shutter at the same time, the lens will chase the subject at a suitable speed, and it will produce a very dynamic effect. Effect!

In the case of poor lighting: you can only deal with it as appropriate, plus use tracking shots!

7. Take pictures of flowing water or fountains:

Use Tv mode and a shutter speed of about 1/50 to get a satin effect. If you use a shutter speed that is too fast, the fountain will look like it. They are all discontinuous water droplets!

8. Night portrait photography:

Put on a tripod, adjust white balance, automatic or custom white balance; iso100-400; Av mode, aperture around f8, use slow sync flash , rear-curtain flash mode; at this time, the flash will flash twice, once when the shutter is pressed, and again before the exposure ends, so people should not leave before it flashes twice.

When photographed in this way, the characters can be clearly seen, and the background neon is also very beautiful, so that the background will not be underexposed and too dark.

Av aperture priority tips:

1. No matter what you shoot, unless you want to maintain a safe shutter, don’t shoot at the maximum aperture.

2. When shooting landscapes, please try to use an aperture of F8~F11.

3. When taking close-ups of people and still life, you can use the maximum aperture to stop down by 1 to 2 stops.

4. Please try to control the safety shutter to be above the reciprocal of the focal length. The wide-angle end shutter should also be above 1/30 second for safety. If the shutter speed is insufficient, please increase the aperture or ISO.

During the shooting process of a digital camera, if you press the shutter halfway, a picture similar to the final rendering will be displayed on the LCD screen, and the focus and exposure will start. The exposure at this time is exactly the exposure of the final image. If the picture is obviously brighter or darker, it means that the accuracy of the camera's automatic metering is greatly deviated, and exposure compensation must be forced. However, sometimes, the brightness displayed during shooting is different from the actual shooting result. Digital cameras can browse the picture immediately after shooting. At this time, you can more accurately see the brightness and darkness of the picture taken, and there will be no more discrepancies. If the shooting result is obviously brighter or darker, you need to reshoot and force exposure compensation. When the shooting environment is dark and the brightness needs to be increased, but the flash cannot work, the exposure can be compensated and the exposure appropriately increased. When performing exposure compensation, if the photo is too dark, increase the EV value. Each increase in EV value by 1.0 is equivalent to doubling the amount of light taken in. If the photo is too bright, decrease the EV value. Each time the EV value decreases by 1.0 , which is equivalent to doubling the amount of light taken in. The compensation interval can be adjusted in units of 1/2 (0.5) or 1/3 (0.3) according to different cameras.

When the white object being photographed looks gray or not white enough in the photo, you need to increase the exposure. Simply put, "the whiter, the more." This seems to run counter to the basic principles and habits of exposure, but it is not. This is because the camera's metering often focuses on the subject in the center. The white subject will make the camera mistakenly think that the environment is very bright, so it will be underexposed. This is also a common mistake that most beginners make. Since the shutter time or aperture size of the camera is limited, it is not always possible to reach the 2EV adjustment range. Therefore, exposure compensation is not omnipotent. It may still be underexposed in an environment that is too dark. At this time, you should consider using a flash or adding more The ISO sensitivity of the camera increases the brightness of the picture.

Generally speaking, the smaller the brightness contrast of the scene, the more accurate the exposure will be, and vice versa, the deviation will increase. There are high and low grades of cameras. If the camera is of a higher grade, the metering will be more accurate. If the camera is of a lower grade, the metering will be more accurate. If it is a traditional camera, the latitude of the film is relatively large, and exposure deviation will not be a big problem within a certain range. However, the CCD latitude of a digital camera is relatively small, and slight exposure deviation may affect the overall effect. All in all, the adjustment of exposure compensation is determined by experience and color sensitivity. Users must compare the picture quality, clarity, restoration and noise size under different exposure compensations in order to take the best pictures.

Note:

Generally speaking, aperture refers to the aperture, which is inversely proportional to the F number. The larger the aperture (aperture), the smaller the depth of field.

Av--Aperture priority automatic exposure.

Tv--Shutter priority automatic exposure

AE-Automatic exposure

AF-Autofocus

AF-S--and SAF It should be the same, it's single-shot autofocus. The opposite is continuous autofocus.

MAF-Monitored AF, this mode can shorten the time required to focus. The camera adjusts focus before the shutter button is pressed halfway, allowing you to compose your shot with the adjusted focus. When the shutter button is pressed halfway and af lock is completed, the focus is locked.

EV-exposure value, this term is usually used when performing exposure compensation.

ISO-sensitivity, each one-stop difference in sensitivity is equivalent to one-stop exposure value corresponding to aperture or shutter.

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