Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography and portraiture - ? Return to the retro makeup craze on the runway in the 20 th century

? Return to the retro makeup craze on the runway in the 20 th century

Slender eyebrows, big and round eyes like deer, bright blush and dark lipstick ... These once represented the special makeup in different periods of the 20th century, and they shined brilliantly on the runway this season, showing the unique combination of retro and modern.

' 1930s '

Slender arched eyebrows

Then: Photographer cecil beaton once described actor marlene dietrich's eyebrows like this: "They don't look like eyebrows, but like the tentacles of a butterfly resting on his forehead. "This sentence vividly summarizes the characteristics of eyebrow makeup in the 1930 s. At that time, women pulled out their eyebrows very thin, or simply shaved them off, and then drew slender arc lines with dark eyebrows, extending to the temples. Finally, they even put a little olive oil on the painted eyebrows to add luster.

Now: in today's advocating natural thick eyebrows, you don't have to sacrifice your eyebrows. Naeem Khan 2065 438+03 spring and summer backstage, makeup artist James Bemmer designed a natural eyebrow makeup with 1930s style. On the basis of the original eyebrow shape of the model, he used a dark brown eyebrow pencil to slightly round the eyebrow peak and extend it at the end of the eyebrow, which is naturally not abrupt, playing with retro fine eyebrows and having a sense of fashion.

Update Tip: If you want to try a purer 1930 makeup, you can try to cover your eyebrows with soap. Wet the soap first, scrape a proper amount of soap with an eyebrow comb to cover the eyebrows and brush them flat. When the soap dries, a flat soap film will form on the eyebrow surface. At this time, the eyebrows can be easily covered with concealer.

' 1950s '

Alice Olivia from Stacey Bendet.

Exquisite cat eye makeup

Then: Everything in the 1950s was inseparable from the keyword "feminization". After experiencing the shortage of materials in wartime, women are eager to regain cosmetics and return to the elegant and charming female image. Cat eye makeup is the most classic part of fashion makeup in that era. The slender eyeliner shows the elegance of women to the fullest. In order to strengthen such charming eyes, mascara is only applied to the second half of the upper eyelashes, and finally a layer of soft eye shadow such as aqua blue and grass green is gently applied to the eyelids to make the eyes more elegant and bright.

Now: Alice Olivia by Stacey Bendet uses traditional black for cat eye makeup, and draws an upward eyeliner with aqua blue above the black eyeliner to make the color more saturated. but

Kate Spade's retro cat eye makeup is more playful. Neil Sibelli, a makeup artist, used white as the eyeliner color, blue eye shadow to spread on the eyelids in a wing shape, and used a whole row of false eyelashes to turn the models into elegant and lovely retro sweethearts.

' 1960s '

Moschino.

Feather fan long eyelashes

Then: 1960 s, youth culture reached an unprecedented dominant position, and women's faces also showed a more youthful and lively style. The big and round "Bambi" eye shape was the most popular at that time, and the long and deep-rooted false eyelashes like feathers became the only magic weapon to create bright almond eyes. Twiggy, as the style benchmark of "modern girl", sometimes even sticks two or three pairs of false eyelashes together, and draws a few clusters of long eyelashes on the lower eyelid skin with eyeliner. Interestingly, at that time, many girls rushed to imitate her eye makeup, brushing mascara layer after layer, and even carrying the notoriety of "spider leg eyelashes".

Now: Moschino's makeup this season is undoubtedly deeply influenced by the long eyelashes of11960s. Tom Pachecks, a famous makeup artist, pasted a pair of tufted long-term eyelashes on the upper and lower eyes of the model, and pasted the lower eyelashes slightly below the lower eye socket to enlarge the eyes. Then just apply a little layer of mascara to make the false eyelashes fit the model's own eyelashes better and avoid the embarrassing situation of eyelash agglomeration.

Update Tip: In daily makeup, just stick a few bunches of single-cluster false eyelashes on the center of the upper eyelashes and the outer side of the lower eyelashes, which is enough to create cute round eyes.

Marc jacobs.

Double eyeliner

Then: At the time of then: 1960, the girls with active minds kept thinking of strange tricks. In addition to the regular eyeliner close to the root of eyelashes, they also drew an eyeliner at the eye socket with matte black eye shadow. This double-layer eyeliner immediately became the key to the "modern girl" style in the 1960s. Similarly, in order to make the eye shape look big and round, when drawing eyeliner, they would omit the eye head part, start from the third part of the root of eyelashes, and do not emphasize the eye tail part, but extend slightly straight at the eye tail. The eyeliner at the eye socket part needs to be extended.

Now: Double eye makeup, popular in the 1960s, is very popular in this season's show. The makeup made by Fran ois Nars for marc jacobs almost completely reproduces edie sedgwick's "factory girl" style, but compared with the conventional circular eyeliner drawn close to the eye socket in 1960s, he reduced the radian of lines, extended and smudged the end of eyes, and gave up false eyelashes, making eyes look longer and more deductive.

Update Tip: If you want to try a more relaxed and lively 60' s eyeliner makeup, you may wish to refer to Mike Kos's show makeup and change the second thick black eyeliner placed in the middle of the upper eyelid to bright blue or green.

' 1970s '

Ali macgraw.

Soft lip color

Then:1The Bohemian style popular in 1970s showed an artistic and unrestrained lifestyle. It is the key to create a kind of natural and sexy that seems effortless and never seems to be taken care of. So nude lipstick has become the first choice. However, unlike the light beige lipstick in the 1960s, the nude color in the 1970s is more peach color similar to its own lip color. Actress Ali McGraw and rock star Stevie Nicks topped the list.

Now: When the girls wearing black wide-brimmed hats came slowly on the Paris show of Saint Laurent, a pair of pale peach lips became the only focus of facial makeup. Their lips have a slightly rough semi-matte texture, full shape, modern and hippie. On the runway of G ucci, it is also a low-key and fashionable soft peach lip color with strong eye makeup.

Update Tip: If you think peach lipstick is too light and often looks bad, you might as well change it to light rose. They are slightly ruddy, which can subtly improve their color.

1980s '

Ohan.

Buffalo girl

Then: In the middle and late 1980s, stylist Ray Petrie created the "Buffalo" style. Almost contrary to the typical 1980s style, this style, which combines street culture, sports sense and Indian culture, is very simple, casual and full of strength.

As the "Buffalo Girl" at that time, actress Talisa Soto represented the handsome and cool girl image in the 1980s. Her chiseled and exotic face and heavy eyebrows show heroic and neutral beauty.

Now: This season, makeup artist Lisa Eldridge created a minimalist makeup for O *** an, which is very consistent with the image of "Buffalo Girl". She made a lot of cosmetic repairs to the model's cheekbones and temples, which made the facial contour clearer, and at the same time added highlights to the girl's cheekbones to create healthy summer skin. Then she filled the gap with an eyebrow pencil along the direction of the eyebrows, depicting a natural thick eyebrow shape. In the eye makeup part, only the black inner eyeliner is depicted to emphasize the firmness of the eyes.

' 1990s '

Francesco Scogna Miglio.

Charming deep lips

Then: When browsing the old photos from 1990, you will find that the most striking thing is the dark lipstick that is almost black. In the 1990s, almost all women had a dark lipstick, and the typical colors were black cherry, burgundy and dark brownish red. In addition, they meticulously drew a deeper and richer lip line than lipstick.

Now: Dark lipstick, which was popular in 1990s, has returned to people's sight in recent years. In order to avoid looking too heavy or old-fashioned, it is necessary to smudge the lip line or simply discard it.

Jonathan saunders's makeup in spring and summer is worth learning. Moisturizing dark lipstick is one of the secrets to make deep lip makeup lighter and more fashionable. Francesco Scognamiglio's dark lip-biting makeup is also eye-catching. Just apply dark lipstick to the center of your lips, and then lick your lips to make your lips faint naturally.

Update Tip: Dark lipstick tends to highlight the texture of lips. Before putting on lip makeup, you need to exfoliate your lips and apply lip balm as a base.

Dsquared2 .

Supermodel smoking

Then: 1990 witnessed the birth of the new word "supermodel". Before this, models have never received public attention like stars, and supermodels such as cindy crawford and linda evangelista have become the new fashion of beauty. This kind of eye makeup uses different shades of matte brown eye shadow. By deepening the color from the eye head to the eye tail in turn, an upward airfoil is drawn at the eye tail, thus shaping the depth and contour of the eye.

Now: both DSquared 2 and Versace have gorgeous and charming brown eye makeup this season. Nowadays, products with different textures make eye makeup more layered. Charlotte Tilbury used eyeliner and pearlescent brown eye shadow in DSquared2 eye makeup, while Pat McGrath added some bronze glitter powder to the dark brown eye shadow of Versace model, which added a bright feeling to eyes.