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How not to damage the projector screen hanging on the wall

As a person who loves to toss, I'm always busy recently.

-A CD table with a vinyl turntable was assembled by hand hammering.

-Tear down Gundam and build a plane.

-The black card is broken, and a Canon T6 is added.

-Mavic updated the firmware and Sikcox became a no-fly zone.

Then go back. . It's a long story to provoke a skunk.

Let's get down to business. Something like this happened to me recently.

Last week, I bought a 1080p projector at a discount, Epson 2150,2500 lumens, and put it in the bedroom. When it was used as a home theater, both watching videos and playing games exploded. I am very happy.

Then I thought that since I bought such an expensive machine, it would be a bit shabby to throw it on the white wall, and the screen wondered if I would get one.

So I started a 1 10 inch giant electric lifting screen ($99).

I found the problem when I got it. It's too heavy, close to 25 kg, and the wall of the bedroom is uneven. I thought the hook couldn't bear the weight at all, and the first suspension failed.

What should I do? The normal idea is to return the goods or change the bracket. However, this is not in line with my style of learning and tossing. So refuse.

So, the question is, how to hang this damn screen without destroying the wall (no nails, no holes, no wall damage).

Try 1:

I bought a hook with a bigger load, and Amazon placed an order that it is said that it can hold a strong hook up to 30lb. This method looks beautiful, but the hook is a chemical reagent after all, and it is difficult to maintain high-strength adhesion all the time. I tried to hang it for about 5 minutes for the first time, and then it collapsed, which scared me.

Try 2:

Rethinking the problem of sticking hooks is that the walls are uneven. Because it is a repainted new house, the problem of rough surface is more serious. It's not smooth and flat tiles like bathrooms and kitchens, and its sealing is not good. Every time I take it off with tape, I bring a lot of powder.

What should I do? I racked my brains to come up with a way to tape wide. In this way, before sticking the hook, stick a wide transparent glue on the wall. Then put a hook on its surface to solve the problem that the epidermis is easy to fall off. However, the life of the hook and the smoothness of the surface have not been well improved. In addition, if it is not handled properly, it is easy to remove all the adhesive tapes and the wall skin will disappear. So it is not a long-term choice.

Try 3:

This attempt, on the basis of the above, uses a vacuum adsorption hook. The problem with sticking hooks is that with the passage of time, chemical components are easy to loosen and fall off after air drying and aging. If the vacuum adsorption hook is used, not only the position can be flexibly adjusted for many times, but also it is more environmentally friendly. However, the problem comes back. After trying it, it is found that the bearing capacity is insufficient and it is easily affected by environmental factors such as temperature and air pressure. It is not completely reliable, and it is extremely necessary that the adsorption surface is flat and smooth.

Try 4:

When it comes to load-bearing performance, among all kinds of adhesive hooks, magnetic adhesive hooks have the highest strength, and even can bear the weight of 100lb at most, but they are generally used for magnetic surfaces, such as refrigerators or walls with two surfaces that can be adsorbed. This allows the magnet to be placed on the other side. And our bedroom wall is obviously not suitable for = =. If you really want it, you can only use magnetic paint, which is a kind of paint with iron. Now many literary youth brigades or cafes are using it. You can hang some postcards, photos and post-it notes directly on the wall.

Try 5:

This time, regardless of the wall, the curve saves the country. Since you can't weigh, you don't need to bear the weight on the wall. After thinking for a long time, I think we should use two taller bookshelves to stand up, put them on the left and right sides, and put the screen in the middle. It's done. I tried it with a coat rack. It looks ok, but it's a little too frustrating. Besides occupying space, where can I find two tall bookshelves?

Try 6:

This is similar to the above idea, bracket, studio light frame, or camera tripod. These props look good, but the problem is: 1. Expensive (go and see how much the tripod costs) 2. There is nothing particularly suitable for this screen. You need to customize it yourself or manually adapt both sides. If the bracket fails, it will be troublesome and impractical.

Try 7:

This time, I thought of an invincible and wonderful method. Laughed in the office. That is. . . . . Put this thing on the ground.

Because this is an electric lifting screen, the weight is mainly concentrated on the metal beam above, and this bracket covers the whole roller blind. Under normal circumstances, the button is pressed from top to bottom, and then the curtain will slowly loosen.

Ah, mentality. I didn't expect that. It can be reversed. That is, the heavy end is placed on the ground, because it is electric, so even if the screen is erected in reverse, it is no problem. Then because the heavy end is placed on the ground, the upper end only needs to hold the edge sealing tube of the screen with a simple hook. This only supports the weight of one curtain, not the whole bracket.

Then, besides looking a little strange, it seems that it doesn't take up space, and the projection angle of the projector is adjustable. I use two books to cushion the height, which is not too short. Subjective initiative is invincible, long live Marxism-Leninism.

Problem solved.

Still have to work hard and think positively!