There is a "tripe" in Houhai.

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It is said that tripe in Beijing was recorded during the Qianlong period. The most famous tripes in Beijing are Feng, Man, Zhang and Wang. The tripe chicken is in the doorframe alley outside the front door (there is a branch at Caishikou now); After 1983, it reopened at Hufang Bridge and moved to niujie (there are also many branches); It turns out that the one next to Yinding Bridge in Shichahai is tripe. The tripe king is located at the north gate of Ditan. Several time-honored tripe shops in Beijing actually taste the same, and the difference is mainly in the formula and cutting method of seasoning.

Since the evaluation of intangible cultural heritage projects was carried out in 2006 in China, all of them have been selected as representative intangible cultural heritage projects in this region. Sandufeng was also selected as a representative project of intangible cultural heritage in Beijing. There are a lot of media introductions about tripe feng and tripe man. Today, I will talk about the "bursting belly" next to Houhai Yinding Bridge.

Whether you are a Beijinger or a foreigner, when you visit Shichahai Scenic Area in Beijing, you must try the famous old Beijing tripe, that is "tripe tripe". The address of Tripe Zhang is at No.7/KLOC-0 in front of Shichahai, and there is a bronze statue of the founder Cai.

Speaking of the topic of "tripe", we have to start with 2011122. Although the wind reached level 5 that afternoon, people from all directions enthusiastically participated in the grand unveiling ceremony of the bronze statue of Cai, the founder of Houhaiqian 128 years ago.

This restaurant, which has been operating near YinDing Qiao for nearly 40 years, has always been a symbol of old Beijing cuisine in Houhai area. Its historical heritage is 128 years. "Fried belly Zhang" is not only fried belly, but also famous for dried fruit, kidney bean cake and snowballing. After the unveiling ceremony of the bronze statue, the "firecrackers sound" officially became a district-level intangible cultural heritage project in Beijing, under the influence of Luo Zhang.

The person in charge of the Intangible Cultural Heritage Center in Chaoyang District who attended the unveiling ceremony of Cai bronze statue said with emotion: "Most of our intangible cultural heritage projects in Chaoyang District are art, medicine, sports and folk customs. Although this restaurant is in Xicheng, it is said that people live in Chaoyang. According to the relevant regulations, it is allowed to apply for World Heritage. We conducted an expert group demonstration on Mrs. Wang's project, and finally concluded that the production technique of' Fried Belly Zhang' meets the application conditions of district-level intangible projects. This is also the only time-honored brand in the non-legacy projects in Chaoyang District. " Zhang Fengying also solemnly told the interviewer: "Next, Chaoyang District will also set up a district-level inheritor. Among the first batch of 32 people, there is an overwhelming fourth-generation inheritor Zhang Zian. "

Under the flash of the camera, 77-year-old Zhang Yaoxing, the third-generation inheritor, leaned against the bronze statue, holding "Zhang's hand" and said, "I have to hug Grandpa." In front of many media cameras, three generations of Zhang Zusun took photos with bronze statues. Faced with these many flashlights, I can't help but fall into memories of the past. ......

19 at the end of 1970s, Zhang, the founder of "tripe Zhang" who was only 16 years old, fled Shandong and came to Beijing. He met a couple who set up a stall to sell fried tripe at Yinding Bridge. For the sake of Zhang Quan's honesty, the old couple taught him how to fry his stomach. Since 1883, Zhang Quan has been pushing the tripe to stand on the bridge of YinDing Qiao for sale. His tripe is mainly made of fine materials and tastes good, so he got the title of "tripe tripe".

After graduating from primary school, Zhang Dianzeng, the second generation descendant of "tripe Zhang", followed his father to set up a stall at Yinding Bridge to sell tripe. After his father died, he took over the tripe stall and continued to stand in the "stall era" at Yinding Bridge. Neighbors all call Zhang Dianzeng "Little Tripe".

In the 1930s, the deep-fried belly at Yinding Bridge was well known, and famous Peking Opera actors such as Ma, Yue and Yang were frequent visitors here. Yan Huizhu's stomach is not very good. Every day, he eats a piece of "mushroom" at the stall of "tripe" (a part of lamb's belly looks like "mushroom", hence its name). It's hard to chew, but it helps digestion and nourish the stomach. Yan Huizhu eats mushrooms and drinks a bowl of original soup every day. A few months later, his stomach trouble was cured. At that time, the legendary story of "explosive belly" curing famous children's stomach problems spread like wildfire and became a story of Beijing's old-fashioned diet.

Zhang Yaoxing, the third generation descendant of "Tripping Bells", is the eldest son of his family. After graduating from junior high school, he and his father set up a stall to sell tripe, nicknamed "calf tripe". 1956 after the public-private partnership, "Fried Belly Zhang" was merged into Di 'anmen Snack Bar. From Xing to Peony TV Factory as a chef. However, the Zhang family still lives in the former Haidong 17 courtyard and has not left the Yinding Bridge, which is closely related to their generations.

Until 1990, the old neighbor of Houhai found Zhang Yaoxing, the third generation descendant of the Zhang family, and said, "Old man, we still want to eat your tripe. Let's open a shop quickly. " Even the professor of folklore in Tsinghua University made a special trip to visit Lao Zhangman and said that "this old shop is an important one on the list of old brands". At everyone's urging, Mr. Zhang took a word from his own name and his son's fine print Donghong, added the word "Shun" smoothly, registered it as "Dongxing Shun Fried Belly Zhang", and reopened the store. 17. Now, Zhang Zian, the son of Xiao Du, has become a chef.

The 74-year-old applied for intangible heritage for an old shop. At the age of 22, she married Yiu Sing Cheung, the third generation descendant of the Zhang family. Everyone affectionately calls her Aunt Zhang. She has never left Shichahai for more than 50 years. Her snacks such as pea yellow, kidney bean cake and snowballing are deeply loved by diners. "Take a bite and immediately know if the old lady did it herself." The diners who often come here said. Diners ask the old lady to take a photo every day. Zhang Zian, the fourth generation descendant of "tripe tripe", said: "Some people come here to eat tripe tripe, but most of them are repeat customers!"

At the end of 2007, a notice of renovation of dilapidated buildings of Xicheng District Housing Authority was posted on the bank of Yindingqiao. It is found that the original Haidongyan 17, where the old brand "Dongxing Shun Fried Belly Zhang" is located, is also on the transformation list. I remember that the house was being demolished in those days, and all the people who came to "explode" ate their stomachs. In addition to grabbing the last bowl of fried belly, they have one more thing-taking pictures of the old shop. People always ask, "When will we reopen here?"

On June 23rd, 2008,165438+1October 23rd, Gala Xinghe's wife Li Shuqin, who lived in Shichahai for most of her life and was over 70 years old, reopened the "Fried Belly Zhang" at Yinding Bridge! Zhang Yaoxing's long-cherished wish has come true. For a time, all the major newspapers in Beijing reported with eye-catching headlines such as "Starting from Yinding Bridge to set up a stall and create a signboard", "Becoming famous to cure stomach diseases", "Inheriting the name of three generations" and "Reopening the old site, the food will not last long".

In the cold wind, I was faced with the bronze statue of Zhang Quan, the founder of "Fried Belly Zhang", and I thought more about why today's "Fried Belly Zhang" is still full of customers and diners are full of praise. I summed up a truth: "character is greater than food!" " "

This kind of tripe, whether it is tripe or lamb tripe, is slaughtered within 24 hours. The beef venetian blinds should be washed repeatedly one by one, and the mutton tripe should be washed until the water is clear, and then the proportion of each part should be mastered according to the traditional process, and carefully cut one knife at a time; The parts of mutton belly should be distinguished and the materials should be strictly selected, such as belly plate, belly gourd, belly powder, belly mushroom and belly kernel. Tripe should be distinguished from tripe collar. Be sure to choose according to the customer's requirements, different parts use different temperatures. Kung Fu is all about the word "explosion". The seasoning that "fried belly" is the secret ingredient of our ancestors. With carefully selected ingredients, for example, Wang Zhihe does not use tofu pudding, and the proportion of other seasonings is also strictly required.

In addition, Dongxingshun's "Fried Belly" cookies also have a unique production method. Dongxing Shun's biscuits are baked with Fuqiang powder. The raw materials are pure peanut oil, pepper, fennel, sesame paste and sugar color ... All kinds of raw materials are properly proportioned, baked first and then baked, and the heat is suitable. Freshly baked sesame cakes are not only crispy and delicious, but also layered. It takes at least 20 layers to meet the requirements, and it must be brittle outside and soft inside. In addition to regular customers, many foreign friends come here to buy sesame cakes.

In the words of Mrs. Zhang: "We old Beijingers are sincere in doing business and never cut corners. The things we make are full of weight and delicious." In Zhang Yaoxing's words, the old man said, "The things of the older generation are gone, and the younger generation still treats me as a treasure. Now I eat about 300 Jin every morning, and it is usually sold out at eight or nine in the evening. In case it can't be sold, we will return it to ensure that all the slaughtered fresh cattle and sheep bellies are within 24 hours. I don't have an overnight tripe here. I'm sorry for the word' old brand'. " Now, in the shop, Zhang Zian, the fourth-generation inheritor, cooked a spoonful of still shivering lamb tripe and copied it into the water. Pour a layer of secret sauce when it is crispy and steamed. Suddenly, the small restaurant was filled with sesame paste.

The story is over. But for young people, it is really necessary to popularize the knowledge of tripe.

As everyone in Beijing knows, except for the fresh raw materials, the kung fu of bursting belly lies in the word "bursting". The water is big, get out, and the firepower is extremely strong. The soup will be cooked in a few seconds. Like belly powder for 5 seconds, belly dish for 7 seconds, belly gourd, belly collar and belly mushroom for 8 seconds ... If it is overdone, it will be old and hard. "Explosive" is very technical. To eat fried tripe, you need to dip in seasonings, such as soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame sauce, sesame oil, tofu, shrimp oil and so on. Add chopped green onion, coriander, garlic juice and Chili oil. When eating fried tripe, you usually only take one bite, wipe the bottom of the bowl, and dip coriander and leek into the seasoning entrance. At the same time, pay attention to the "tooth feeling" when eating tripe. If the person next to you thinks you are chewing a tender cucumber, then the "tooth feeling" is authentic. In the Qing Dynasty, someone chanted: "The soup will be slightly warm in an instant, the ingredients are complete, and the wine is a bottle. Blunt teeth can't be chewed, and the fruit is swallowed raw. " This is the most vivid metaphor for eating tripe.