A famous sommelier

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Keywords: robert parker robert parker Wen advocated

Robert parker Jr. is the most influential wine critic. He runs a publication, Wine Advocate, which specializes in his scoring reports on wines from all over the world. Some of these scoring reports have been collected into books, which have become the reference standards for many wine merchants and lovers to sell and buy wine. Parker is an American. He used to drink Coca-Cola instead of wine. But one year he went to France with his girlfriend and couldn't drink the expensive Coca-Cola in France, so he was forced to drink wine instead. As Americans say, the rest is history, and we all know the rest. When the' 82 French Bordeaux wine was not packed in oak barrels, Parker gambled on the reputation of his life, claiming that it was one of the best years of this century. This year's wine is full of fruit aroma and weak tannins, and it is full of youthful vitality in the early stage of oak barrels, which is very attractive. In other words, it's too much like California wine. This is definitely not a compliment. Some experts warn that this may not be a year that can be stored for a long time. After the fruity taste fades, there may not be enough tannins as a skeleton to support the further development of wine in the bottle. At that time, the dollar was strong, but Wine Observer, the largest wine magazine in America, still warned her readers that the price was too expensive, so many people were watching. But people who believe in Parker start buying wine futures (it is much cheaper to book and pay for wine one or two years before it is bottled and listed). 1982 Bordeaux was listed, and it was determined that it was very slow to mature and had unlimited potential. There is no doubt that it can be listed as one of the best years of this century. After the bad weather in the early 1990s, 1982' s drinking capacity has increased several times, and now it is sky-high. So Bordeaux established Parker's reputation in 1982, and his followers became more and more influential.

According to the experience of professional wine merchants who often taste wine with him, Parker has a strong resistance to tannins, and he can still maintain a keen taste with 100 bottles of wine a day.

This summer, he was interviewed by a French TV program. The host temporarily asked him to taste some familiar Bordeaux wines, that is, tasting, scoring and guessing the winery and year without knowing the name. He had no reason to refuse, so he had to bite the bullet and accept it. He was taken away from the studio, drank 1 1 glass of wine and came in. Under the gaze of the camera and the audience, he guessed nine of them correctly, and seven of them scored exactly the same as those given in his book. He even pointed out that one of the bottles was not Bordeaux, and one of them guessed wrong something he had never drunk. Parker said afterwards that he had aged two or three years in these fifteen minutes. He admits that he is very lucky this time, because more than half of the wines are first-class wines, which he is very familiar with, and he has been defeated on other occasions.

Parker's influence has reached the point where wine merchants love and hate him. A wine merchant in new york said half-jokingly and half-seriously that if Parker gave him less than 90 cents, he could not sell wine, and if Parker gave him more than 90 cents, he could not get wine. Some students from business school did a special study and found that the value-added rate of good wine in the auction market was influenced by many factors, such as year, word of mouth, output and so on, but the most important factor was the score given by Parker. A famous example is the three single vineyards Cote Rotie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque produced by Guigal of Beilonghe Winery, which often get full marks or close to full marks in Parker's score. For a time, the prices of these three wines soared to almost the most expensive wines in the world. Although the temperature has dropped now, it is still the most expensive wine in Longhe District. Wine merchants enter wine according to Parker's score, and many consumers buy wine completely according to Parker's score, which is both satisfactory and disappointing. Therefore, there is a website dedicated to grading Parker on the Internet, and his average score now is 86.

Parker's controversy and popularity are related to the way he comments on wine. Before him, wine critics used words to describe wine, metaphors and adjectives to describe color, aroma and taste, and some people used several stars to rank wine. Parker did all this, but he gave each wine another score, full score 100. This is the most straightforward scoring method and the most familiar method in school. 90 points is obviously higher than 89 points, so 90 points of wine is obviously better than 89 points of wine. There is no more convenient reference standard for wine sellers and wine buyers.

But is 90 points really different from 89 points? The scoring system developed by the wine department of the University of California, Davis is 20 points, because according to the research results, people's taste can't distinguish the difference of 1%, so the difference of one or two points in 100% is completely meaningless. Of course, the sensitivity of the senses varies from person to person, and with acquired training, it is obvious that some people have a particularly keen sense of taste. But we still have to go back to the most fundamental problem. How valuable is this score? Can apples and oranges compare scores? That is, Apple was the same from the beginning. Can different varieties such as snake fruit and golden delicious be compared by scores?

It is generally believed that Parker's judgment on Bordeaux and Longhe wines is reliable. He is familiar with these two fields. Outside these two fields, his judgment is often controversial. In his book Wine Snobbish, andrew barr, a British writer, thought that his evaluation of Burgundy was unreliable and caused an uproar. He also said that he didn't know much about German wine. Although Parker published a thousand pages book Burgundy in' 90, many experts did not respect his judgment on Burgundy. Parker rated Joseph Favelle as a five-star winery and praised that not many wineries can be compared with Favelle. Andrew Barr and Matt Kramer, the authors of Pinot Noir Nuo and Making Sense of Burgundy, both think that Fayewelle's wines are not excellent.

In the wine buyer's guide published in 1995, Parker finally downgraded Faiveley to Samsung and admitted that he was wrong. He also clashed with another Burgundy expert, Anthony Hansen, the author of the 800-page masterpiece Burgundy. He gave Hubert Lionel five stars and George Leigh Neil three and a half stars. Hansen said the latter is better; Parker said that because Hansen once represented George Leigh Lignier's wine in the UK; Hansen said Parker knew nothing about Burgundy.

There is a very basic difference between British and American wine critics.

Parker prides himself on being an independent and objective wine critic. He spent money on wine, refused to entertain, and tried to avoid conflicts of interest. He invested in Beaux Freres, his brother-in-law's winery in Oregon, so he never commented on this winery. Most other wine critics work in the media and are very sensitive to conflicts of interest. But in Britain, the situation is very different. Few British wine critics have no direct or indirect relationship with the wine sales industry. Some are consultants, some are agents, and some simply sell their own wine. Decanter, a famous British magazine, is often criticized for reporting that the author of the article is often entertained and influenced too much by advertising companies. The American magazine "Wine Observer" has received different criticisms. Most of them are intentionally or unintentionally creating the image of high-end wine, indirectly advocating investment in collection, which deviates from the right track.

In addition to the identity of wine critics, of course, there are differences in personal tastes. People from different regions and different food cultures have different taste preferences. There are obvious differences among writers in the English-speaking world. Besides Parker, the most common author of wine tasting report is Michael broadbent, who is in charge of wine auction at Christie's auction company. Broadbent is the best drinker in the world. His three books are all classics in this field, and the great vintage wine book is the bible for auctioning and collecting wine. Broadbent is British and Parker is American. Just look through their books and compare them, and you can see that their tastes and standards are quite different. Parker spoke highly of Bordeaux. Clive Coates, an English writer, wrote a book about Bordeaux, The Great Yi Zheng. He is also recognized as an expert on Bordeaux. Even in a relatively simple area like Bordeaux, their opinions are often inconsistent.

So many different wine critics have different opinions, which is actually a good thing for lovers. You can choose the report that best suits your taste from your own experience as a reference. Parker's super influence is actually a big worry in the international wine industry. Everyone has his own taste, and so does Parker. His influence made some wineries try to cater to his taste in order to get high marks in his books. If this trend is encouraged, the characteristics of different regions will gradually disappear. Parker advocates low-yield and high-quality wine-making methods, which certainly has a positive effect, but if one day, different parts of the world begin to produce Parker wine with the same grape variety and style, it will be the loss of all wine lovers.

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