Prose on the Yellow River Phoenix Trail

If the Yellow River is a movie, there are nine things that will make waves to catch the climax-

The source of the tauren monument-five springs as the source, gurgling spring water, why is it yellow when it flows?

The first bay is the most beautiful one next to the Suokezang Temple. Among the nine songs, only this bay island is like a star, and a thousand islands can't keep fairies floating, so the nine songs are scattered. ...

The hukou is spectacular, and the waterfall is dressed in a yellow robe, tearing up the dream of walking slowly.

The incense burner temple in Yulin, Shaanxi, faces the Yellow River in the east and is empty on three sides. Xi Hui projected the solitary pavilion into the Yellow River. I wonder how much I can see clearly.

At the junction of Shanxi and Shaanxi, the Yellow River deducts a "Gankun Bay". Did Yin and Yang originate here and be discovered?

The Yellow River flows south in Shanhaiguan Pass, Tongji Guanshan, and how many amazing scenery are strung together because of the first pass in the world?

How many dreams did Xiaolangdi give people?

In Laoniuwan, two Yellow River Youlong danced hand in hand, fought Jinsuo Pass and lived in a military fortress.

On both sides of the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon, there are natural water erosion wonders and dense "heavenly books" on the cliffs. ...

Is it broken? Did the ancients dislike the perfection of numbers? Just use "nine" to give you more space to fill and imagine? The Yellow River flows into the Bohai Sea, which is also spectacular. It is the most satisfactory period, the end of writing after drawing all the tracks, and the glory of phoenix nirvana! There are too many reasons for beauty, and the romance is too shocking.

I added one for her: Meet in the sea and lay the red carpet. This is "perfection".

Yes, the Yellow River is not far away, and it goes straight to Bohai Bay. Is it necessary to choose a posture and throw it into the sea? This is not a leap, so it is heroic and indomitable; It's not a high platform diving, but a delicate scoring action. It's petty, and you can't climb up and meander thousands of miles. On the south bank of the Bohai Sea, the Yellow River unfolds like a phoenix (proud as a peacock, it seems that people feel that the beauty is discounted, so it is not high-end), and it has not been folded again for 5,000 years. We compare the Yellow River to the mother river, which is her beautiful phoenix tail. She is still an impulsive and unruly man at heart. When she met the blue of the Bohai Sea, she collided instantly and immediately released it to both sides with full movements, thus opening her aestheticism. So people describe her concisely with simple and accurate associations and mathematical symbols, which is the so-called "Delta".

one

Jump into the warm embrace of Phoenix! July 3 1, the temperature is 40, it's okay to take a tour bus with air conditioning on, so as not to disturb all the way down.

The tour guide is a young man and wants us to call him "Director Chen". Not a "director", not a "doctoral tutor", nor a talkative guide.

Starting from Dongying city and entering the suburbs, I feel satisfied and there are almost no vehicles. Director Chen said that people who come here have a feeling that the emperor has personally visited, and there is a sense of "silence" along the way. Especially those who have not been influenced by grand occasions, do they feel that they are the masters of "the whole world is the land of kings" by car? Faced with such a scene, they only have the sense of honor of "great rivers and mountains" in their hearts.

Indeed, every grass and tree here, Dongying people have given five-star guest treatment, uniform, thousands of troops and horses stand, green and mighty. I exclaimed, "The pine and cypress are evergreen!" Director Chen gave me a squint and said, "There are too many people cheated here."

It turns out that nothing grows here, and the saline-alkali land is almost the skeleton of all life, at least the cemetery. Dongying people dug a two-meter pit to survive a tree, and compacted yellow mud at the bottom to prevent saline-alkali overflow; A "sponge" filled with sand and gravel is used to store rainwater on the ground; Spread waterproof paper on the gravel, pull good soil without salt and alkali from other surrounding cities, and then plant the green of life. Rows of trees shook before my eyes. This kind of scenery is not uncommon in my hometown, but it has become a very difficult landscape here. However, there are always fragile green plants withering gradually, and the dry color tells the decline of life, but I don't know why.

People always look for the "best" in the laws of nature. Since you can't transform the soil, change the tree!

When you enter the Yellow River wetland beach, you will find trees with pale pink flowers and finely divided leaves. Director Chen told me that this is "full of red willows". The roadside near the beach was not pine and cypress, so he solved the mystery. I thought he laughed at my ignorance.

It is said that Tamarix is mainly distributed in the desert of Inner Mongolia, which is wind-resistant and cold-resistant, and has the characteristics of salt and alkali tolerance. No wonder salt flats and alkali flats are everywhere. After careful comparison, you really can't tell the difference between willow and pine, just like when you turn to a city, you can't have the right sense of direction anymore. Obviously, it is "loose", and clusters are stacked together, so green that it will drip down; Although the original Tamarix is not a willow branch floating in the wind, it will not make us mistake it for pine and cypress, just like a math problem that locks my thinking, so I am helpless.

Tamarix ramosissima originally bloomed three times a year, but the Tamarix ramosissima cultivated by grafting changed genes has no word "full" and can be as confusing as pine and cypress.

Chen Dao said, there is a third option. What can be changed except changing the soil and then changing the trees? He said, nothing changes, just grow rice!

I have heard the news, but I haven't seen it with my own eyes. Chen Dao said that Academician Yuan Longping planted rice here last year, with an yield of 39 Jin per mu. It is estimated to be 380 kg this year and 500 kg next year. ...

There is nothing in the saline-alkali land, and rice flowers can be smelled in the sea! The rice here is red and as big as a grain of rice, but I don't know how it tastes. ...

As for this rice, I was inspired by what brand to play in the future, and quietly told Director Chen around me that this rice is called "Fenghuang Rice on the Yellow River Ancient Road". Director Chen has no right to name. Tell me, and make suggestions online as soon as you get back.

Dongying, this is the "river-made plain" brought by the Yellow River in 5,000 years. Salinity is just a monster dyed from the cracks in the soil after the silt of the Yellow River covers the beach. The peripheral vegetation conquered the monster. Why are you worried that tens of thousands of square kilometers of sea will turn into fields every year, only weeds will grow, and the figure of 9.6 million square kilometers of land will be rewritten by the Dragon of the Yellow River.

I gave the word "magic" to the Yellow River.

two

I bought a ticket. In fact, Director Chen is holding a piece of pink simple paper with several people written on it and the official seal of the administrative region stamped.

I tentatively asked, there is no iron fence around, so if you go through the forest and avoid the past, won't you miss the ticket?

Director Chen smiled. He knows how to answer my questions.

This piece of Yellow River beach is more than 10,000 mu, 50 kilometers long from east to west and 30 kilometers wide from north to south, with an area of about 1.530 square kilometers. People are like ants inside, walking and walking, and they can't get out for days.

The scorching sun is hanging high overhead, scorching this swamp, and people's endurance is not as good as that of a grass. The reeds in the water near the water are still green, and they don't bow their heads or bend over.

In the wetland area, you can get in close contact with birds everywhere. The car stopped at the entrance of the trestle in the winding water. They must cross the trestle and reach the finish line. Let me see, it's about two miles long. They bent down and sat down again. They regard the trestle and wild ducks as scenery, and I regard people who watch wild ducks as scenery, which is influenced by Bian, a poet of "Crescent School". Who said that poetry is to cultivate sentiment and has no other use! Bian Shi has become a "practical manual" for me to appreciate the scenery.

Those wild ducks are similar to domestic ducks, except that their feathers are clean and have gray variegated colors, while domestic ducks are mostly white and look less wild. People are on the trestle, and wild ducks are looking forward to it. Perhaps some of them are familiar with tourists' footsteps, so they stop looking up and just look down for food in the water.

Director Chen is very conscientious, and with the heat, he took pains to introduce it. I saw him pointing and seemed to be very involved. I got on the bus and untied a bottle of drink as a reward.

He chatted with more interest and pointed to the reeds and said, "The autumn dew of cymbidium is heavy, and there are many reeds at night." Whose poem is this? I dare not sing it rashly. "If you sit on the trestle at night, those wild ducks will get into the reeds almost at the same time and shake the reeds to blow the wind ..."

Oh, he is explaining the sentence "There is wind in the reed at night". The wind didn't come naturally, but the wild ducks "shook the wind".

Director Chen said, don't think that this ancient Yellow River wetland will always be a landscape. By mid-August, it was another scene.

I thought he was trying to attract us to advertise next time.

In mid-August, the wind blew, and the wind urged the reeds to grow another foot. There are white reeds and reeds under your feet, which is the artistic conception of snow all over the sky.

I once read a poem, but I forgot the sentence. It's about reed flowers on the beach of the Yellow River Estuary. First, it is called "inch element", which seems to be a huge piece of white satin, rippling with the wind; Also known as "flying stationery", it flies all over the sky without saying a word, and it is a pure messenger. These descriptions are all about love. You see, ancient letters were written on that silk and on that piece of paper, conveying each other's feelings and greetings. Why not meet?

There are 1523 species of animals in the Yellow River wetland, with as many as 7 million animals. This is the pride of Dongying people. Director Chen is from Lijin, Dongying. He proudly said, "The population of Dongying is 210.3 million, with an average of 3.28 birds per person ..."

Numbers seem to be his forte, and he added, "Look, in the village ahead, there are 28 households with 88 people, with 380 mu of land available and 500 mu of wetlands per capita. Everyone is a landlord, and every household is an old man ... "

The state gives tens of millions of wildlife protection fees every year, and hundreds of millions of kilograms of grain are eaten in winter and dry season. Together with these reeds, it can sell tens of millions.

Every year 165438+ 10, a month's time, that's the reed cutting season. In other months, the silt in the wetland is deep, and there is no danger of being trapped after freezing. The machinery is busy and in full swing. The management area only collects per person 120 yuan every day, and the villagers put the income from cutting more reeds into their own pockets. Reed can make paper and generate electricity at a price of 9 cents per catty. It is no problem for a person to earn tens of thousands a season.

The Yellow River turned into a muddy alluvial plain, which also gave birth to fertile soil and brought people hope for survival. Perhaps the meaning of "mother river" should also have the feeling of breastfeeding to provide people with adequate food and clothing?

three

All the way to the Yellow River mouth, dare not delay. From time to time, wild rabbits jump out, can't stop the wheels and swish into the reeds. This is to play with tourists. Rabbits are wild and interesting.

There are also surprise projects. The car stopped outside Tsuruya, and we looked around at the wild cranes in the cage.

There are so many kinds of wild cranes that you really can't remember them. You can only choose two kinds of contrast wild cranes to enjoy.

Dare not stretch out your finger to tease the wild crane, her beak is very long, aiming at your finger can quickly attack and even peck off people's fingers in a very short time.

The most beautiful is the red-crowned crane. When the temperature is low, red-crowned cranes are all "golden roosters", which is to prevent heat from emitting. At this time, it is high temperature, and the red-crowned crane pecks a few drops of water from the faucet from time to time to cool down. Facing the red-crowned crane, I suddenly became interested in "Red-crowned Crane".

It is said that eating the blood of "He" is like taking arsenic, and the seven orifices of the human body bleed to death, and all the five internal organs in the stomach ooze blood and die in a short time.

Someone recited a few crooked sentences in classical novels: "A wasp with a needle on its tail and a crane with blood on its head are not poisonous, but they are the most poisonous to a woman's heart."

It's heavier. Look at a few unknown female tourists around, some of whom are squinting. It's no use knowing how to explain. In fact, the poem "Women's Heart" in classical novels refers to "Women's Heart", and there are 300 boards of women everywhere!

I didn't make a mistake, but I don't seem to respect that woman. When the female tourist turned her head, I looked at her with an extremely apologetic look and wondered if she would forgive me.

It is said that in ancient times, people used this red-crowned crane as a metaphor for the dignitaries in the palace. They are all very charming. They also have "red beads" on their crowns, which look like "red crane crowns". Maybe one day they will die of "Crown Blood". This kind of clothing may be the emperor's warning to the dignitaries to be cautious. ...

It can give us a little deduction of historical images, which is better than simply searching through books.

Turn to "The Feather Crane". Extremely slender, the body feathers are slate gray, and the back feathers are blue-gray withered feathers. There are a bunch of long white feathers on each side of the cheek, fluffy and drooping, like a hermit. The feathers on the front neck and chest are black, and the Kuroha on the chest is slender and lanceolate.

The breeder said that demoiselle cranes are shy by nature, are not good at living in groups with other cranes, and often stay alone and away from other cranes. 1 1 There's a flight here. Let's go and watch it on the flat roof of Tsuruya. My friend and I were standing in the shade of the crane cage, and the breeder said, "She is shy." This is a level. If you don't say it, three words will explain it clearly.

After the keeper opened the door of the crane house, he threw the food on the ground, but the demoiselle crane ate it carefully and flew away. A neat flight formation, like a low-altitude fighter group, forms a V-shaped formation, circling four times, and then consciously returning to the cage. Travel around, because the opportunity to see crane fly is rare. Spread your wings, be as elegant, steady and dignified as Hua Dan on the stage, and do nothing indecent. It is said that her nickname is "boudoir crane" and she is a national second-class protected animal.

I always don't say "pine cranes prolong life", but a friend around me is full of sweat. He was a painter and was still writing his observations before his death. It is said that the life span of cranes is limited to 60 years, and people are much longer than cranes. Ancient times is a hope. Today, if you say that you live as long as a crane, it may be short-lived. The rhyme of China culture is not simply equal to number.

I asked, why do you want to release demoiselle cranes? Is it a project to attract tourists? Director Chen shook his head and said that people wanted to prove that these cranes were free with them, and none of them were released without returning them.

Flying to prove? Prove to us ordinary tourists that it is actually the greatest respect, and we will not ignore you just because you speak easily. Dongying people are close to the people and meticulous enough.

four

Straight to Phoenix Beach.

It can't be said that "jumping into the Yellow River can't be washed clean" and boarding the "Double H Building" (also called "Wangyuan Building"), someone simply told the story of a girl standing in Wangyuan Building and jumping into the Yellow River. Why not say "throw yourself into the mother river"? Very scared. It is said that all the people drowned in the Yellow River died upright, plunged into the mud and made a "death sculpture". There is always a solemn sense of ceremony in the ancient Yellow River Road, in wetlands and on the shore, which is not found in some places I have been to.

The tragic mood in my heart was immediately taken away by the magnificent mind of the Yellow River. The Yellow River flows eastward. The love of water often makes people squat, swallow and integrate themselves into it. Yellow river water can't let you do this. Director Chen said, scoop a bowl of water and one fifth of yellow mud from the Yellow River. Dongying this place, the underground is seawater, the ground is saline, and then there are people's feelings up there. It is awe and gratitude for the pure feelings of the Yellow River, and it is a disappointment for the Yellow River water. Dongying people put many eyes on the Yellow River-lake, which naturally purifies the river. They call those lakes "descendants of the Yellow River".

Needless to preach, those negative things about the Yellow River have been driven away by Her Majesty the Queen, giving us enough visual beauty.

The seemingly mirror-flat river does not make waves, but the river is undercurrent. A kilometer-wide river flows in like a painted brown bay. Maybe the yellow skin is dyed by the Yellow River. I hope so. Looking at the shore, Mr. Rong Hai imitated the ancient rhyme of Cao Mengde's Looking at the Sea and dedicated everything to the Yellow River. Needless to say.

From a distance, the Yellow River water in the fan is scattered like the tail of a phoenix, embracing the blue of the Bohai Sea. It was completely different before, too stingy; I used to watch the blending of the Yangtze River and Poyang Lake on the Shi Zhongshan, which was too presumptuous. Only the Yellow River and the Bohai Sea are the most suitable: the water surface of Huang Chengcheng is slowly merging, never rampaging, the sector is regular, the bright jade color kisses the light yellow, and a person around him says, "Male and female are one!" That makes sense. My hand gave him a thumbs-up unconsciously.

Or overlooking, the vastness on the other side will never give you ambiguity and clutter. This is the most spectacular and poetic "red carpet" on the banks of the Yellow River. Director Chen told me that these deep reds are no less than the reddest lipsticks. They are beautiful carpets paved by Suaeda salsa, which is unique to the banks of the Yellow River. The area is only a few thousand square kilometers in the world. Red and yellow have always been the warmest colors, just like our national flag. Every time I stand below, I have the urge to put my hand on my cheek to warm my face. Delusion, here can be more galloping, as if falling into the red ocean, surfing, rolling and wanton. ...

Director Chen told me that I can't enjoy what I'm watching now. Whenever autumn comes, it is a pure carpet, just like maple leaves, but the maple leaves are too swaying, and the red color of Suaeda salsa is the most practical. It is said that the colorful clouds in the sky will be drunk by the red carpet and linger.

Is it that director Chen still wants to invite me to visit this rare beauty in the world and make mobilization? No, I'll come back in autumn!

Junbo is my friend, a member of China Photographers Association and chairman of Rongcheng Photographers Association. He has released the drone and flew to the red carpet. He said, don't worry, you can watch this grand scene again on the way. Is this to satisfy my desire or to arouse my desire? ...

Before returning to the parking space, I turned to say goodbye and got some understanding of the composition of the "Double H Building". The shape of the two English letters "H" is the pinyin initials of "Yellow River", so there is no need to recite anything else. As if the Yellow River is around us, we are vividly greeting the Yellow River: Hi-four pillars with different colors, one green, representing "Green Dongying"; A warm yellow is the epitome of the color of the Yellow River; A deep blue, for the Bohai Sea; Deep red, symbolizing the red carpet. The most dazzling color is here, and the deepest memory is here. Ah, our yellow river phoenix tail is stingy in any artistic description, but you refuse, just as I walk in your hinterland and write down these fragmentary impressions. You are not too insignificant. I would like to leave this "phoenix tail of the Yellow River" in the tidal flat wetland thousands of miles away from Fiona Fang and write it on your incomparable beautiful image. ...

Written in Zuimotang, 2065 438+08. 8. 2 in the morning.