Some problems on MG- (sword) impulse of gundam model

I feel that the questions asked by the landlord are a bit like novices. The first problem that a novice has to solve is how to deal with the nozzle! This is also the biggest enemy of the Sioux Party. Tools involved: pencil sharpener, scissors (preferably gold medal pliers ... 150) ... First cut the plate with scissors (the quality of scissors will affect the nozzle effect, and even damage the plate directly with scissors) ... Leave a nozzle of more than one millimeter. Then smooth it with a pencil sharpener ... Finally, scraping the nozzle print with nails can effectively reduce whitening (some novices don't know how to scrape it with nails), but the print is still a little ... As for the complementary color between the mark and the nozzle to cover up the mark ... This is not recommended, and it will be a tragedy if you spray it out ... After extinction, the complementary color will have obvious color difference with the plate ... Of course, there are also perfect methods to deal with the nozzle. The advantage is that the nozzle marks can disappear completely, but the disadvantage is that the steps are quite troublesome and time-consuming ... The method of grinding the nozzle is more suitable for the spraying side ... which is unnecessary for the element group.

In addition, it also introduces a method to improve the tightness of model connection ... Everyone who has done the model basically knows it, but it is necessary to talk about it for the first time. People often ask what to do in the post bar. When making a model, you will inevitably encounter some loose places, such as the arm can't support the weight of the weapon or the parts are easy to fall off ... or it is too tight, which will affect the maneuverability or assembly (all generations are fine, which is basically a common fault of domestic products) ... Just paint 502 less on the parts (less paint, more may not be inserted back) ... Then insert them back after drying (502 is equivalent to increasing the thickness of the tenon after drying). If it's too tight, make a circle in the jack with scissors or something ... that is, enlarge the jack and try to turn it a few times before installing it. Don't enlarge the hole too much ... using scissors may be a little violent, and it will also have a little influence on the appearance of the model, but it is all on the skeleton ... you can't see it from the outside ... If you want to be perfect, wrap a circle of sandpaper with the back end of a wooden stick or pencil sharpener ... insert it into the hole and rotate it ... that is, by grinding.

Beginners don't recommend seamless and spray painting as soon as they start ... It's better to read more tutorials and practice with low-priced HG, because it can't be done overnight after reading the tutorial, and it needs to be practiced slowly ... especially when it comes to spray painting, it's more troublesome. The first job is likely to fail ... MG's seamless operation will not affect any effect, but it is necessary for painting.

Infiltration and line drawing are two different things ... Line drawing is to draw the lines of the model with Gou Xianbi, and then wipe off the excess oil stains. The saturation line is made of paint (the type and color are not fixed) and thinner (Tamiya X20 or Zippo oil, commonly known as thief oil ... is engine oil, which can also be called kerosene, but you must buy genuine thief oil, and different pirated ingredients will corrode the plate). Diluent is harmful to plastics, so the proportion is very important. Click on the scribing line with a fine brush (as long as it can drip ink) ... the ink will automatically flow along the scribing line. It seems that Tamiya also has a mixed osmotic solution, so you can try it.

Gundam model coloring, mainly spray painting or marker complementary color ... marker pen is only suitable for small-scale details complementary color ... Don't use that kind of large-scale coloring ... Pen marks are disgusting ... Of course, the color separation of MG is usually detailed enough, and it doesn't need much complementary color work.

Any model can be aged (except electroplating), but to get good aging effect ... it needs more technology than painting. After painting, try to make it old.

In terms of protective paint, it is also recommended to use low-priced HG to practice the feel first. If this thing is sprayed, the model will be destroyed ... Generally, models spray more extinction ratio, which can eliminate the plastic feeling. The dark part has obvious effect, while the white part is not effective. The spraying method is to find a sunny day (air humidity is lower than 60%) and not to spray on cloudy days. Spray evenly before spraying (the tank bottom can be heated with warm water if the tank temperature is too low), and the spraying distance is 10 ~ 15cm. Sweep from left to right (don't spray back and forth from left to right) and spray a thin water film. If it is too thick, it will turn white. If it is too thin, it will have no effect. As for semi-light, the effect is not obvious, and the reflection of plastic itself is similar to that of semi-light. Light oil is suitable for red physique ... the overall effect is to throw the model into the oil and take it out.

... finally ... it costs a lot of money to practice model skills at home. Even if you don't practice the skills and just play with the models, the investment is not small ... Behind the glamorous works of the masters, countless models have been destroyed ... It is impossible to beat them, and the spraying equipment is cheaper ... Be mentally prepared and practice the element group effect under the limited economic conditions. ..

Go to gundam model when you are free. Some experts or experienced people will occasionally send some tutorials and works ... friendly reminder: read the rules before entering the bar.