Shaanxi cuisine failed to be selected into the eight major cuisines. What did it do wrong? Earth knowledge bureau

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Earth knowledge bureau-Shaanxi cuisine cries for you.

No. 1 126-Shaanxi cuisine cries for you

Author: Makawa

Shaanxi cuisine is a homesickness that every Shaanxi person can't give up. Bacon meat buns, cold rice noodles, oil-sprinkled noodles, gourd heads, great meat, soup beef and mutton ... These well-known specialties are the best things that Shaanxi wanderers want to eat, and they are also all over the country with high popularity.

Hungry? Hungry?

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

Historically, there are many colorful places in Shaanxi's food history. For example, there are many records about cooking in the documents unearthed in Shaanxi, such as Zhou Li Tianguan and Lu Chunqiu's Ben Wei Pian. At the same time, Xi 'an, Shaanxi Province, as the ancient capital of the 13th Dynasty, is rich in cultural heritage, and has also formed a rich food culture in thousands of years of historical development.

But Shaanxi people also have unspeakable pain. Why doesn't the so-called "eight major cuisines" in China have the long-standing name of "Shaanxi Cuisine"?

Xinjiang cuisine also has something to say that the eight major cuisines in the northwest are absent!

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

Cuisine from all over the world meet in Shaanxi.

Shaanxi cuisine, referred to as "Shaanxi cuisine" for short, is one of the important local cuisines in China, among which the "Shaanxi cuisine" in xi 'an, a thousand-year-old ancient capital and historical city, is the most famous.

Although Shaanxi is big,

When it comes to eating, it depends on Guanzhong and Xi 'an.

As early as 3000 years ago, Shaanxi was the capital of the Western Zhou Dynasty, which set off the first wave of catering development. The original taste of Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals in the Qin and Han Dynasties comprehensively summarized the cooking achievements in the pre-Qin period, so it can be regarded as the second peak of the development of "Shaanxi cuisine"; By the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Chang 'an had developed into one of the largest cities in the world because of the prosperity of the dynasty, and "Shaanxi cuisine" had reached an unprecedented height.

Lv Buwei has never eaten anything so delicious.

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

Because of the special location at the foot of the Emperor, "Shaanxi cuisine" absorbs the essence of local cuisine, covering a wide range, including palace cuisine, official cuisine, merchant cuisine, temple fair cuisine, market cuisine, folk cuisine and ethnic minority cuisine. But it is precisely because of the eclectic characteristics of its capital that Shaanxi cuisine lost the opportunity to form an independent school in ancient times.

In the era of the prosperity of the Silk Road on land

A large number of ingredients (especially fruits and spices) from the western regions and the Middle East poured in.

Xi Chang 'an has become a melting pot of different food cultures.

This mixed situation is really different from the Shaanxi cuisine in my impression now.

(Date from the West, picture? Tuchong creativity)

After the Republic of China, China's food culture has also made great progress. Huaiyang cuisine is divided into Jiangsu cuisine, Zhejiang cuisine and Anhui cuisine, Guangdong cuisine is divided into Fujian cuisine, and Sichuan cuisine is divided into Hunan cuisine, forming the "eight major cuisines" prevailing in China today.

The eight major cuisines are basically in the south, and there is only one Shandong cuisine in the north.

Ancient Chang 'an gathered all kinds of people from all corners of the country with diverse tastes. Cultural background and population mobility make it difficult for people to adapt. It may be that the western food in Chang 'an was highly respected for a while, but after a while, Koguryo's taste led the trend again, which made the Shaanxi cuisine in history too rich and did not form its own system.

At that time, the whole north and west of Asia

It can be said that they are all sources of ingredients in Chang' an.

Not to mention southern China (litchi is shipped from Sichuan).

Three talents in water and soil

In addition to historical and political factors, geographical factors are also an important reason why "Shaanxi cuisine" is difficult to form.

Shaanxi Province, located on the second step of China, is divided into three natural geographical regions by the northern plateau and the southern Qinling Mountains, spanning three climatic zones. Three climatic zones create three different products, so Shaanxi cuisine is divided into three vertical local flavors: northern Shaanxi, Guanzhong and southern Shaanxi. These three local flavors have their own characteristics and strengths.

The regional differences between north and south are still obvious.

Northern Shaanxi is the Loess Plateau, with mild climate, less rainfall, sufficient sunlight and dry and barren soil. It belongs to semi-arid area and is rich in root crops and various coarse grains, especially potatoes, millet, red dates, licorice and apples. In addition, because northern Shaanxi is close to Gansu, Inner Mongolia, Shanxi and other provinces, the taste of northern Shaanxi is similar to that of northwest China. It likes mutton and vinegar. It tastes salty and heavy.

After thousands of years of continuous development, the junction of agriculture and animal husbandry

It seems that animal husbandry lasts longer. ...

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

The flavor of northern Shaanxi mainly includes dishes from Yulin and Yan 'an, and the representative dishes include mutton stewed in iron pot, mutton frozen tofu, mutton offal, three fresh vegetables, potato wipe, buckwheat stew and pork liver dishes.

Shanbei mountain sheep

Its mutton stew in iron pot must be tasted.

Central Shaanxi is the Guanzhong Plain and Weihe River Basin, which is known as "800 Li Qinchuan". This place is a warm temperate zone, with mild climate, moderate rainfall, convenient irrigation, developed agriculture and rich products. The famous Qinchuan cattle, Guanzhong donkey, Weihe fish and Yellow River carp all come from here. At the same time, Guanzhong is rich in high-quality onions, ginger, garlic and peppers. These colorful products have laid a solid material foundation for the development of Guanzhong cuisine.

The land of abundance first refers to Guanzhong.

(Image from Google Maps)

Guanzhong cuisine centered on Xi 'an, including Weinan, Tongchuan, Baoji and Xianyang, is also a typical representative of Shaanxi cuisine. The main representative dishes are Cucurbit Chicken, Chicken Rice with Sea Cucumber, Warm Shredded Waist, Fish in Milk Soup Pot, Golden Thread Oil Tower, Sticky Meat, Bonsai with Three Skin Slices, Braised Belly with Red Oil, Lotus Seeds in Red Robe and Roasted Fish and Sheep.

Gourd chicken, just taste it.

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

Southern Shaanxi is the Qinling-Bashan Mountains and the upper reaches of the Han River. This place has a subtropical climate with abundant rainfall. Hanzhong basin is criss-crossed with rivers and canals, which is a scene in the south of the Yangtze River. There are abundant resources of poultry, livestock, aquatic products and wild animals and plants, walnuts, chestnuts, persimmons, auricularia auricula, Hericium erinaceus, ginger, Ganoderma lucidum, Osmunda japonica, konjac, pepper, mandarin fish, etc., and rare dictyophora.

Hanzhong basin is surrounded by mountains and waters.

In addition to agricultural products, mountain areas and forest areas are also particularly rich in ingredients.

(Image from Google Maps)

Southern Shaanxi flavor is a dish including Hanzhong, Shangluo and Ankang. The main representative dishes are Blood Sea Cucumber, Hanjiang Turtle, Qinba Sizhen Chicken, Grilled Plum, Shangzhi Meat, Alfalfa Pot Sticker and Shredded Osmunda. Because Hanzhong and Ankang are close to Sichuan, the dishes in southern Shaanxi are deeply influenced by Sichuan cuisine, and most of them are spicy.

Although there are many delicious foods in southern Shaanxi, Hanzhong people

Our day begins with a bowl of steaming rice skin.

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

The vertical distribution of geography makes the whole concept of "Shaanxi cuisine" span a lot. Even if the Guanzhong cuisine represented by Xi 'an is dominant, it cannot fully represent all the flavors of Shaanxi, and it is difficult for outsiders to find an accurate definition of "Shaanxi cuisine", which affects the competitiveness with other provinces' cuisines.

Compared with Shaanxi cuisine with a long span,

Cantonese cuisine is often neat at a glance. ...

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

It is also the end of the world.

However, among many local cuisines in China, Shaanxi Cuisine is not the only one that failed to make the list of "Eight Major Cuisine". The following regional cuisines have a similar historical track with Shaanxi cuisines in the development process.

"Beijing cuisine", under the root of the imperial city, is rich in exotic materials, compatible with all directions, with complex varieties and many famous dishes, but it is difficult to classify and it is not convenient to concentrate on publicity. In modern times, Shandong cuisine has the greatest influence on Beijing's taste, so some Beijing cuisines are sometimes called "Lu Jing Cuisine". However, Manchu, Mongolian, Hui and other ethnic flavors also influenced the taste of Beijing in the Qing Dynasty, so it is difficult to find the context of Beijing cuisine.

I prefer to eat here with my friends.

(picture? Great green)

"Northeast Cuisine" refers to the cooking cuisines in Heilongjiang, Jilin, Liaoning and eastern Inner Mongolia, which are characterized by low price, large quantity, extensive materials and rich flavor, mainly stewed dishes. Representative dishes are "white meat and blood sausage", "pot-wrapped meat", "northeast stew", "stewed chicken with hazelnut and mushroom", "sauce bone", "three delicacies" and "Northeast big thin face".

Not very standard, but there is no standard at all. ...

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

However, because it is a modern immigrant area, there is no long-term inheritance and accumulation of Northeast cuisine. Today's "Northeast Cuisine" is often a mixed dish made by immigrants from all over the world in combination with local products and cooking methods in their hometown, including slightly spicy Sichuan cuisine, improved Shandong cuisine and Hebei cuisine. It is not easy to summarize the exclusive characteristics, which is relatively unfavorable in publicity.

In fact, with the strength and characteristics of Shaanxi cuisine, Su cuisine in the eight major cuisines may provide some reference ideas. Jiangsu is also a province with obvious vertical distribution. The so-called Su cuisine actually includes local flavors such as Subang, Huaiyang, Jinling and Xu Hai, which is very similar to the pattern of Shaanxi cuisine.

Compared with northern Shaanxi and southern Shaanxi, Jiangsu is more complicated.

Back to the theme of "Shaanxi cuisine" itself, at the beginning of 20 18, the CCTV documentary "China 3 on the tip of the tongue" started with a little-known Shaanxi cuisine "Phnom Penh Cabbage", and the famous chefs of Shaanxi cuisine vividly demonstrated the traditional stunt of "flowers crashing into four doors", which made "Shaanxi cuisine" a hit.

"Four Doors to Play Flowers" originated from China traditional martial arts. It is a kind of boxing that combines rigidity with softness. It pays attention to vigorous and brisk steps. This stunt in Shaanxi cuisine also dazzled Fei Huo.

Shaanxi cuisine, as one of the traditional local cuisines in China, experienced the billowing smoke in Zhou, Qin, Han and Tang Dynasties. Although it is not very famous now, Shaanxi people have vivid memories and endless homesickness because of Shaanxi cuisine.

But in terms of popularity,

Almost all other famous Shaanxi dishes will be defeated by noodles. ..

(picture? Tuchong creativity)

In fact, in the context of the booming catering industry, food and flavor have long been the public's first impression of a piece of land. Therefore, how to push the unique charm of Shaanxi cuisine to a larger market and let more people deepen their knowledge and understanding of Shaanxi cuisine will be one of the most unavoidable and important issues in the future development of Shaanxi.

References:

[1] WangYangQuan. On the formation and development of food culture in Shaanxi [N]. Journal of Shaanxi Institute of Socialism, 20 17(3).

[2] Jiang Yingzhi. Eight Chinese Cuisine Nine Chinese Cuisine [J]. Cultural world, 20 13(5).

[3] Zhu Liting. The spread path of Shaanxi cuisine in history [J]. Food culture, 20 17(3).

[4] Wu Guodong. Shaanxi cooking ceremony [M]. Xi 'an: Shaanxi People's Publishing House, 1999.

[5] Wang Zihui. On the basic characteristics and character of Shaanxi cuisine [N]. Journal of Cuisine, 20 12( 10).

[6] Cao Shuiqun. On the Tourism Development of Food Culture Resources in Shaanxi [J]. Tourism Economy, 20 1 1(3).

* The content of this article is provided by the author and does not represent the position of the Earth Knowledge Bureau.

Cover picture? Tuchong creativity

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