Man Fujian Slow Food? ▏ Qida Village, a touch of salty, leisurely

Walkers Without Borders tj text/photography

(Qida Village Pier)

Qida Village is located on the seaside of Lianjiang River, leaning against the North Peak and facing the east Bihai, whose industries are fishing and breeding. There were villages as early as the Sui Dynasty, the ancient temples of the Song Dynasty, the city walls of the Ming Dynasty, the archways of the Qing Dynasty, the stone houses of the Republic of China, and the leisurely ancient charm lingering in the air.

(Overlooking Qida Village)

The car stops at the entrance of the village. The herringbone path is divided into three places: upper, middle and lower. It reaches the top of the mountain, overlooking the village and the sea; Arriving at the pier, you can hear the waves and see the sailing boats returning home; in the middle, you can enter the village, old streets and alleys, and fireworks in the world.

(At the pier, women are busy with abalone breeding operations)

While raising funds, there is a vague smell of salty sea breeze blowing, as if inspired, I stroll to the seaside unconsciously Go. After making a promise, we have arrived at the pier, which is called "Hui Stove". However, I saw a high bank facing the waves, a shallow path into the sea, and the flat water was full of returning boats. Fishermen in twos and threes returned from work, carrying perhaps fresh catches in their buckets.

(Villagers are twisting the rope)

The landing from the pier is a gentle slope, and the road is covered with shallow mortars. The tide has once overflowed, and the water has receded, so it is a bit slippery when you step on it. . My feet were not fishermen's water boots. Although the sea water was lapping at the shore, I still paid my respects from afar without feeling its coolness or heat.

(Woman walking in the village)

The embankment wall of the pier is very thick, made of cement blocks mixed with shells. The sun and waves have long ravaged it into a dark brown color. , and even chewed out mottled holes. If you look closely, it looks like a weather-beaten face, with the waves washing away the lead of the years. Touching it, it seems far less frivolous than Yang Shuo's "Snow Waves" said "it's bitten by the waves".

(Corner of the old house)

Old women nearby are busy, sorting out the line bait for abalone breeding, their fingers are brisk and they are humming fishing songs. I no longer dress like a fisherman with wide clothes and long sleeves. When I occasionally greet guests, the "bird singing" makes me feel confused, oh, this is southern Fujian.

(Anti-Japanese Gate Tower in Qida Village)

Climbing up the steps, you will see a standing city gate, which is said to be a relic of the Ming Dynasty’s anti-Japanese campaign. Go through the gate and enter the street. Rows of ancient houses. "Cuo" refers to a house in Fujian, and "gucuo" means an old house in northern dialect. Picking up an ancient yet majestic courtyard and taking a look, it looks like a big house in the north. In the main room, all the gods, ancestors, family photos and certificates gather on the wall of the desk to pray for blessings and connect with the clan. The old man said It has a history of fifteen generations and three hundred years.

(Woman in the main room)

In the adjacent aisle, someone was using a hand-cranked machine to twist the cable. Strands of nylon were stretched out for more than ten meters and a pair of brackets were hung. , shake it with your hands here, the silk threads rotate and twist together, which is a rope used to make a living in the sea. Doesn’t the maintenance of a family also require this kind of cohesion to have a long and lasting legacy?

(Dazzling nave)

Another house, with colorful decorations on the lintel, lights in the hall, festive decorations all around, a group of women sitting around the table folding paper foil, the uncle Said it was to please the old house. Nowadays, life and business are very difficult. It does not mean that you will be successful if you struggle. Human beings also look forward to the blessing of divine power.

(The baby cow in the old house)

Go out the back door and walk towards the flag crown on the mountain. Along the road, there are Taoist temples, chickens and sheep scattered around, and women in the fields are digging. Sweet potato, this ancient village is "alive" with flavor. From the high point, you can have a panoramic view of the vastness. The sky is clear and the sun is clear. The sea water is surprisingly quiet, with no waves or sounds of waves. The mountains and islands are towering, and the fishing boats are passing by, which makes the picture not empty. Perhaps it is this calmness that has given it a unique advantage for farming. Ropes for kelp cultivation and cages for abalone cultivation are laid out vertically and horizontally on the sea, and the blue satin brocade will embroider the scene of a good harvest.

(Farm on the sea)

It was getting late, and when I returned, I looked at the distant villages, leisurely spending time in them, giving me leisurely feelings, and taking away the feelings of southern Fujian. A hint of fishy saltiness also leaves a memory to accompany the ancient house.

(Old lady from southern Fujian)

Strategy:

Take the 383 express line from Fuzhou to Lianjiang, and transfer to the shuttle bus to Qida Village at the passenger terminal. One way ***25 yuan, takes about two and a half hours.

(Embroidery in southern Fujian)

(Island side)

(Busy and pleasing women)

(Fishermen are rowing boats Cooking abalone boxes on a small raft like this)