How to take good photos?

First, multi-lens selection

"More shooting" means more practice and more experience. Specifically, we might as well try more shots to win more, choose the best from many, or carefully re-shoot a scene after exploring the best scheme. This is a stupid trick, but it is really a trick to give full play to the advantages of digital cameras. Optical photographers have no laws. You see, optical cameras shoot with film, so you can't know whether you are satisfied or not on the spot. We won't know until we develop it. Winning with more is bound to waste a lot of film and the cost is too high. So optical photographers often cherish the "mirror" and don't press the shutter easily. When they grab the camera carefully and take the next photo, they have to go back and develop it before they know the result. If they are not satisfied, it will be difficult and it will be too late to make up for it. Therefore, old friends often lament that optical photography is an art full of regrets.

Digital photography is different. The image is now stored on the magnetic carrier of the machine, and can now be played back and observed. If you are not satisfied, get rid of them and start over. This is a great advantage of digital photography. So I usually choose a topic first, and then choose a scene around the topic. Each scene revolves around it a few times, and I draw up a shooting scheme under different angles and different lighting conditions (backlight, forward light, photometry, supplementary light, etc.). ), and then I did not hesitate to shoot. Sometimes I shoot the same project from the same angle several times, then stop to play back, and the dissatisfied shots are deleted on the spot, often ten to seven or eight, only one. Then shoot a scene and brew it until a special topic is completed. Generally speaking, two or three hundred or even four or five hundred shots were taken, leaving only seventy or eighty figures. After you come back, save it on the hard disk, then use ACDSee to enlarge and play it back, and delete a part. Then use the editing function of ACDSee to play back and do preliminary image processing. Generally, one is to correct the skew, the other is to cut it when necessary to improve the composition, and the third is to correct and make up for the lack of exposure of individual photos with the function of "automatic leveling". After this process, the photo can be considered as a preliminary finished product, and then it can be taken back to ACDSee for amplification and playback. If it is too mediocre, you can delete it again, so that there are only twenty or thirty or even a dozen photos left in each topic.

Second, don't underestimate the basic work of focusing and metering settings.

Focusing is the most basic work of photography. It can be said that everyone can't help it, but when I check the reasons why some photos are not taken well, sometimes the problem just appears in focusing. If you are using automatic photography, please do a good job of half-way focus locking, otherwise the title may be blurred due to out-of-focus If you use the program normally, it's a semi-automatic photography. Its characteristic is that the aperture and exposure time are automatically selected by the camera, while the metering mode, focusing mode and white balance condition can be manually selected. Things are different. Digital photography is a unique way and function that optical cameras do not have. If you don't make good use of its characteristics and treat it like automatic photography, you may be self-defeating and dragged down by it.

There are usually several focusing methods in program control mode, such as area focusing, focus focusing, remote focusing, close-range macro focusing and so on. When focusing, some can also change the focus to a specific position off the center (different cameras have different functions), so you can't simply treat complex functions, but be good at applying different functions according to different situations. Generally speaking, the default focusing method is to focus on flowers. I went to the flower market to shoot flowers years ago, because the dance orchid was very close, but how to shoot it was not clear enough, and even it was out of focus. I learned later that it was because I didn't shift my focus from the default mode to the closing mode. For example, if you shoot people in the shade, you must pay attention to the key metering and single-point focusing, and also pay attention to the half-distance focusing of the shooting theme, otherwise it will be difficult for you to shoot satisfactory works.

Third, try to keep the camera stable during exposure.

For novice and old photographers, sometimes the blurred image is not due to inaccurate focus, but because the camera is unstable. Generally speaking, for beginners, when the speed of light on the ground is lower than1/60s, the imaging clarity may be affected. For an old hand, if the exposure time exceeds 1/30 seconds and there is no one to rely on, there may be a problem. To keep the camera stable, one is to hold the camera posture and apply force accurately, and the other is to press the shutter button. It seems simple to practice this basic skill well, but it is not easy to do it. It is more likely that people will never practice it when they are old. So what should we do? I have several stupid ways: the simplest one is to find a support for my body or hands; Secondly, hang the camera belt around your neck and push the camera forward until the belt is tightened to form a three-point support, which greatly improves the stability of the handheld camera. With the exposure speed as long as 1/8 seconds, I took quite a few clear photos by this method. it wont hurt you to try it The third way is to add cable release (wire-controlled shutter trigger) on tripod, but some cameras don't have cable release interface, and cable release is quite expensive, so the corresponding effective alternative is to use delay function. It would be best if your camera has a 2-second delay function. "Tripod +2-second delay" is the most stable and convenient way. It doesn't matter if you don't have the 2-second delay function. Just use 10 second to delay, just waste some time, and the effect is just as good.

Speaking of angle frames, my lesson is that I must buy a better one. In order not to spend more money on it, I bought two cheaper tripods. As a result, the first leg tube is too thin, it shakes when touched, and it is easy to retract. The other is that the lateral rotation is not flexible after a long time. I had no choice but to buy a third one, and finally I spent enough money to buy a top brand. This is ridiculous.

Fourth, don't use the flash kindly.

There is an article saying that American photographers use flash when they want to use it. It seems that the flash is indispensable, and it is an indispensable condition for taking good photos. However, I often lose my cool when I shoot cats and tigers. Think about it. Maybe I swallowed it all at once. Maybe people use an external high-power auxiliary flash. ! As far as the built-in flash is concerned, the power is so limited, and the lighting distance and range are so small that it is impossible to illuminate all the scenery in a large range and the lighting is balanced, so it is only suitable for use when a specific theme needs to be highlighted. This is my first experience. Second, taking pictures of indoor people with flash, often the images are flat and lack of layering, or because the light source is single and the contrast is stiff, sometimes red eyes will be taken, which is even more difficult for a friend with glasses. His eyes are often "silvery" and expressionless, which annoys both him and me.

So I am incompetent, and I have tried to avoid using the built-in flash since the era of optical photography. I prefer to use the night vision function to improve the light sensitivity in the case of insufficient indoor light. Now, with a 4-megapixel digital camera, the photosensitive performance has been greatly improved, and good photos can be taken under general light conditions, which is even worse. "Forced non-flashing" takes priority as the basic means of indoor and outdoor photography. But this does not mean that the flash is useless (of course, it should be used in poor light). Of course, I am not a master photographer, let alone an expert in using flash. I may have gone too far in this respect. If there is anything wrong, please feel free to advise.