How to use Nikon camera?

1, the trick to grasp the sharp scale of imaging in landscape photography (including dark photography)

Nikon camera is famous for its sharpness, but the scale of sharpness is not easy to grasp, especially when shooting landscapes (or dim objects), it is not natural to be too sharp. The trick is to set the sharpness of the optimized calibration to the maximum when shooting raw, and then shoot in real time. For example, the subject contains a large number of objects that need details (such as leaves, grass and other common objects in landscape photography), which is very conducive to the control of details. For example, watching the whole picture in the computer at last is unnatural, and raw can reduce the sharpness.

2, the skill of quickly setting the menu

You can make full use of the "My Menu" function, and put the common options (first or second level options) in the play menu, shooting menu and personal user menu into "My Menu" at one time, with a maximum of 20 items, and the order can be adjusted at will. Because Nikon has set shortcut keys for a large number of commonly used functions, the most commonly set ones are D-Lighting, optimized calibration and shooting menu library in personal user menu.

3. Skills to quickly determine the white balance

When the scene light source is complex, it is not easy to adjust to the most suitable white balance in a short time. This time is often surrounded by white balance. By setting the adjustment series of yellow (a) and blue (b), setting the compensation series (white balance correction range) and setting the number of shots, the white balance that is most suitable for the environment and atmosphere at that time can be selected in the shortest time. It should be noted that the white balance that conforms to the atmosphere is not necessarily the strict gray of 18 degrees, which cannot be solved by the raw format (theoretically, the white balance setting in raw can be adjusted at will later). In actual use, whether it is surrounded by white balance or not depends on personal habits and conditions. Under complex light sources, the usual settings are:

First, the FUNC button is designated as the white balance surround button, and then the white balance that comes with the camera is roughly selected (this should be temporarily set on site, which is roughly accurate and not strictly required, and is mainly used as the benchmark of white balance surround), and then the white balance adjustment level is set to 5, and the number of shots is set to 5. After setting, you only need to press the shutter once, and the camera will automatically take five photos with different levels of white balance (it needs to press the shutter several times to surround the exposure), from which one photo can best express the theme and scene atmosphere, and then change the camera white balance to "manual preset", and save the white balance setting of the photo that best expresses the theme and scene atmosphere as a user-defined value when selecting images, so that other photos in the same scene can be easily taken with the same white balance.

4. Set some skills to optimize calibration.

(1) If you want to emphasize the edge of an object (for example, when shooting an object with maple leaves as the main body), you should improve the sharpening degree and contrast at the same time, so that the colors will be brighter and the visual impact will be stronger. It should be pointed out that if the brightness is increased at the same time, the enhancement of brightness will partially offset the effects of improving contrast and sharpening. If you are not sure, please set it to A (the leftmost setting bar), and the machine will automatically set the sharpness according to the field situation, which often works well.

(2) When the photo is gray (such as shooting a foggy mountain with a telephoto lens when the sun is strong), it is often necessary to improve the contrast, which is also conducive to expressing another tone with black and white gray. If you are not sure, please set it to A (the leftmost setting bar), and the machine will automatically set the contrast according to the field situation, which often works well.

(3) Increasing the brightness can partially suppress the noise in the picture; Reducing brightness can partially suppress the probability of dead white.

(4) Don't increase a lot of saturation at a time, slowly increase it, and then zoom in to confirm whether the details can be retained, especially when shooting red flowers, and pay more attention to the details such as the lack of textures and folds caused by excessive saturation. If you are not sure, please set it to A (the leftmost setting bar), and the machine will automatically set the saturation according to the field situation, which often works well.

(5) Setting the hue to a negative number will increase the yellow tone, and setting it to a positive number will increase the red tone. When taking a portrait, you can adjust it forward, so if the white balance is set accurately, it is easy to get the effect that the model is white and red.

(6) If the contrast and brightness cannot be adjusted, just turn off D-Lighting.

(7) In the monochrome filter, the contrast intensity of the picture decreases from R (red), O (orange) and Y (yellow) in turn, and G (green) is a good filter for shooting monochrome portraits, so try it.

5, automatic exposure (focus) locking skills

Setting AE-L (Lock Auto Exposure) is a very important function in the camera. Nikon camera setup skills:

(1) Lock automatic exposure only: Only press and hold the AE-L/AF-L button, and the exposure will be locked. When the button is released, the camera will continue to measure light automatically. Because individuals are not used to composition, they always need to press the AE-L/AF-L key nervously, so it is best not to set "Lock Auto Exposure Only".

(2) Lock autofocus only: Only when AE-L/AF-L button is pressed, will focus be locked. After releasing the button, the camera will continue to focus automatically. This function is very useful, especially when the light is dim, and you can re-compose the composition after focusing at last, without worrying about the bellows phenomenon. It should be pointed out that if the lens has a lock focus function (such as a small bamboo gun), it is not necessary to set "Lock Auto Focus Only".

(3)AE/AF lock (reset when the shutter is released): After pressing the AE-L/AF-L button, the exposure and focus are locked (the lock is still valid after releasing the button) and will not be released until the shutter is pressed or the camera is turned off for metering. It is convenient to use this setting frequently.

(4)AE lock (hold): After pressing AE-L/AF-L button, the exposure and focus are locked (the lock is still valid after releasing the button), and it remains after pressing the shutter, which is suitable for continuous shooting after exposure locking. This setting should be set only when shooting a stadium scene with a stable light source requires a lot of continuous shooting.

6. Quickly select the best measurement mode

Set the default metering mode as matrix metering, so that you can have a general judgment on the overall exposure value first, and in most cases, the matrix exposure is still relatively accurate. At the same time, in the F control option, select "Specify FUNC button", set Fn button to spot metering, and set preview button to central focus metering, so that when the subject occupies most of the central area of the screen (such as close-ups in portrait photography), press the preview button to quickly switch to central focus metering; When the subject occupies a small area of the whole picture and the light ratio between the background environment and the subject is quite different (for example, shooting a portrait in a backlight environment), it is very convenient to press the Fn key to switch to spot metering (of course, metering the subject). As for the size of the central key area, the user can set it in the "Central Key Area" in the B metering/exposure settings. I usually use 8mm for half-length close-up, 6mm for face close-up and 10mm for full-length close-up.

7. How to use the analog flash?

Simulated flash means that the photographer can see the shadow position of the subject in advance after turning on the flash, so as to confirm the output intensity and direction of the flash. In the E-Surround/Flash option, set the analog flash to on, and then press the "Preview of Depth of Field" button when the flash is turned on (whether it is an internal flash or an external flash), and the flash will flash along with the preview button. It should be said that this function is quite useful in outdoor multi-lamp shooting.

8. When to use automatic FP?

Generally, the synchronization speed of high-end flash is about 1/250 seconds. If the shutter speed exceeds the maximum synchronization speed of the flash (for example, 1/400 seconds, F2, which often happens when the flash is used with a large aperture), the shutter Hou Lian will drop before the front curtain of the shutter is fully opened, often resulting in a "semi-black" local picture. In this case, you need to turn on automatic FP. After automatic FP is turned on, the shutter speed can exceed the flash synchronization speed limit (1/250 seconds, reaching 1/2500 seconds or even 1/4000 seconds). In practical use, when shooting portraits or flowers with high sunshine and large aperture, it is often necessary to use flash to partially fill the light to highlight the texture and blur the background. At this time, turning on automatic FP is the only way, otherwise almost 100% will shoot a dead white (because the shutter is too slow). Therefore, when the flash is used, the "Auto Flash" is usually started. By the way, the built-in flash cannot use FP high-speed synchronous shutter.

9. Fast focus control

When it comes to focusing, be sure to understand AF focusing mode and AF area mode. The former controls the method of clear focusing, and the latter controls the setting of focus. For beginners, the best setting is AF-A+3D tracking. AF-A can automatically determine the focus mode. If the subject is still, the system automatically adopts AF-S, and once the subject is not fixed in the focus, the system will automatically switch to AF-C. Therefore, 3D tracking is recommended, because after the selected focus is focused, even if the subject is far from the focus, the system will automatically switch to the focus according to the color and contrast for continuous focusing. This recommended method has a slight impact on speed and accuracy, but it is simple and easy to implement. If we want to pursue faster speed and accuracy, we should study other AF focusing modes and AF area modes.

10, dynamic AF area selection experience

First of all, when selecting dynamic AF area, the more points you use, the better. You should set it according to subjects and subjects, which will be the most efficient.

(1)9 Focus: Suitable for occasions where the subject takes a small proportion in the picture and needs to explain the environment, such as shooting bees and butterflies flying among flowers. At this time, there is no need to deliberately emphasize the details (no need to pat the compound eyes and fluff). Bees and butterflies only play the role of finishing touch in the whole picture, and they are an element to express the environment. At this time, only the main body (bees and butterflies) needs to be included.

(2)2 1 focus: it is suitable for the subject to occupy a large proportion in the picture, and it is not necessary to deliberately explain the environment. For example, details such as shooting bees and butterflies, compound eyes and fluff need to be deliberately emphasized. The theme of the photo is not to emphasize the relationship between the subject and the environment, but to show the most brilliant part of the subject. At this moment, it is more appropriate to set 2 1 focus.

(3)5 1 focus: it is completely impossible to predict the motion trajectory of the subject, such as shooting a bird that is fighting in a hurry. At this time, it's better to let the camera judge automatically. You just need to keep continuous shooting.

(4)5 1 focus (3D tracking): Similar to 5 1 focus, the difference is that the environment in the picture is messy (there is a lot of spatial information in the messy environment, which is convenient for 3D tracking), and the colors of the subject and background are quite different and the contrast is strong. The subject is constantly moving up, down, left and right in the picture, with a strong sense of space.

1 1. Correctly understand lock tracking and focusing.

This function is mainly used to set the waiting time of autofocus when the focal length of the subject suddenly changes. When the subject changes rapidly (skating, racing and other sports themes), selecting off can make the camera focus quickly with the action of the subject. What happens when it is set to long? During the filming, a person suddenly walked by the camera and disturbed the subject. If it is set to long, the camera will still bite the subject to focus. In fact, this is a problem of Nikon menu naming. For example, "lock tracking focus" is changed to "tracking focus duration", and the settings inside are changed to "long, short, automatic and locked", which is easier to understand. In particular, changing the "standard" in the original menu to "automatic" can accelerate users' understanding of Nikon cameras.

12, focus control skills

If you use 5 1 to focus, the number is of course more, but there are more choices, which means that the control speed will be greatly reduced. Nikon provides two technologies to improve the control speed.

(1) Start the focus cycle: after the focus cycle mode is set to cycle, when the selected focus is at the far left, press the multi-choice left button, and the selected focus will automatically switch to the far right of the screen. Similarly, when the focus is at another position on the edge of the screen, the multi-choice four-way button will help the user to speed up the sense of control of the focus movement.

(2) Multi-selection center button: It is suggested to set the ok button to "Select the center focus", so that no matter where the focus is, whether it is horizontal or vertical, as long as the ok button in the middle of multi-selection is pressed, the focus will immediately return to the center.

13, AF-ON should be fully utilized.

It is suggested that users who like full-time manual focusing should cancel focusing by half pressing the shutter and hand over focusing to the AF-ON key, which is not only useful for shooting macro, but also useful for shooting birds. The specific settings are as follows:

(1) For machines with AF-ON button (above D300), in the first autofocus in a5 (triggering autofocus), the default setting of the machine is "shutter /AF-ON button", or it can be changed to "AF-ON button only".

(2) For machines without AF-ON button (less than D90), just set AE-L/AF-L button to AF-ON in f4 (setting AE-L/AF-L button) in F control.

When shooting birds, the general focus mode will be set to AF-C. At this time, press the button to continuously track the shooting object. Once the button is released, AF will automatically stop (lock focus). Use continuous shooting when you keep pressing the button. Because the shutter button no longer has the focusing function, the response speed is greatly accelerated. When 5 1 focus is set, the focus in the viewfinder will automatically move with the bird.

14. Application of exposure delay mode in landscape photography and macro photography.

The slight vibration caused by the bounce of the reflector will blur the picture. Although it is slight, it is not allowed for rigorous scenery and macro photography. The best solution is to set the "exposure delay mode" to "On" in the personal setting menu, so that after pressing the shutter, the mirror pops up first, and the shutter is closed after about 1 second. During this 1 sec, the jitter caused by the bounce of the mirror basically stops, which can ensure the clarity of the picture. Of course, those subjects that need to master the shooting moment (street sweeping shooting, physical education subjects) are not suitable for this technology.

15, the trick of instant framing

There are two different focusing methods for instant framing. In handheld mode, the viewfinder mode is focused by half pressing the shutter. At this time, the reflector falls, and the LCD screen is temporarily dark, so the focus position can only be confirmed from the viewfinder. In tripod mode, the viewfinder mode is focused by the autofocus button. I suggest you use tripod mode. After shooting live view, the focusing speed will be slower. In order to improve the focusing speed, the focusing point can be reduced to 1 1 or even smaller (if fewer choices are made), because the focusing in live view mode often needs manual fine-tuning, and the built-in focusing point is of little use. If users often use the live view function, they may want to designate it as a shortcut button by selecting "Assign FUNC Button" in the "F Control" option, and then set it as live view. In the instant view mode, zoom-in is often used to shoot macro, which can focus more accurately.

Extended content:

Nikon, a famous Japanese camera manufacturer, was founded in 19 17, formerly known as Japan Optical Industry Co., Ltd.. 1988 Company changed its name to Nikon Co., Ltd. based on its camera brand.

The name "Nikon" used since 1946 is the Roman abbreviation of Japanese pronunciation of "Japanese optics", which is a combination of kon in ZeissIkon, a German camera. Among Nikon's many camera products, the most important ones are Nichols camera lens, Nikon F series 135 film SLR camera, Nikon D series digital SLR camera and consumer digital camera Coolpix series. Nikon is also a manufacturer of stepping semiconductor production equipment (stepping machine). The company also produces goggles, ophthalmic inspection equipment, binoculars, microscopes and measuring equipment.

20 17 10 year1October 30th, Nikon China officially announced that it would stop the business activities of its subsidiary Nikon Optical Instruments (China) Co., Ltd. in Wuxi. At the same time, the factory responsible for the production of Nikon digital cameras and digital camera accessories will also stop production.