Suzhou 1 one-day tour

In my dream, Suzhou osmanthus fragrance, autumn wind and autumn rain are the most lovesick. It's almost two months since I came back from Suzhou and Hangzhou. I never started to relate these trips. Maybe I am afraid that I will continue to break that perfection. Perhaps the bits and pieces about those mountains and rivers have already become dynamic pictures in my life with frame-by-frame photos and negatives.

The alternation and flow of black and white and color, and the disconnection and connection between ideal and reality have enabled me to complete a period of acacia from past lives to this life. In that nightmare situation, I would rather turn myself into a water lily in the rivers and lakes in the south of the Yangtze River, wandering in her story every year, rather than just passing by again. ...

Dream into Yanshui Road in Jiangnan

-Who held up the dream of a water town with a long pole?

Boats cross thousands of lovesickness.

Vague past lives

I'm just a sleeping red lotus in your eyes.

one

It has been a year since I set foot on the ancient city of Suzhou again. I still remember that I was very anxious after only one day in Suzhou last year. At that time, I said to this city that I suspected was my hometown: "Wait for me!" " It's the opening season of the osmanthus festival in Wuxian, and I'm still greeted by the fragrance overflowing in the air and the lively flowers on the branches, so I only take this reunion as a reward.

Hanging out with friends outside Nagato, where many houses are already being demolished, I want to search my memory, but it's a little vague.

Until the car turned to Liuyuan Road, I looked up and saw the camphor trees on both sides of the road, and the memory of dew dripping under the autumn rain reappeared. The driver said that this camphor tree is a Suzhou tree, which is evergreen all year round. Smell it carefully, and it is obvious that there is a faint fragrance flowing down from the branches and leaves, which makes it difficult for people not to get drunk.

Stay in the garden after supper. This Ming dynasty building, known as the crown of the famous martial arts garden, covers an area of two hectares and takes the winding corridor of more than 700 meters as the main line. It is divided into four scenic spots in the Middle East and Northwest China, the central landscape, the eastern courtyard, the pastoral scenery in the north and the wild interest in the western mountains and forests. The whole garden structure is rigorous, exquisite and elegant, with overlapping eaves and winding corridors. It can be said that the winding path is secluded and unpredictable, and you can see the scenery of the four seasons without leaving home, which is fascinating. The peak of the cloud, the main peak of the courtyard, is the relic of the "Huashiban" in the Song Dynasty. 6-5 meters high, beautifully carved and magnificent. It has the characteristics of thinness, leakage, transparency and wrinkling, and is the best of the forest and lake stones in Jiangnan gardens. Ruiyun and Yun Xiu two peaks stand on the left and right, like holding the moon, which is a spectacle. For me, a northerner, I like nothing better than the pavilion of "good weather, good rain and fast snow", the sleeping lotus pond under the peak of the cloud, and the carved window of Nanmutang where the natural scenery melts into one screen.

Avoid tourists, stand under the 200-year-old magnolia tree, and imagine that the petals like jade boats are knocked off during the flower season. They float like boxes, and they clearly become a blue chess player.

The scholar didn't wake up, and the tricycle bypassed the slightly remote western suburbs and stopped at the scenic Panmen scenic spot. According to the tricycle master, Panmen was built in the Spring and Autumn Period, rebuilt in the late Yuan Dynasty and rebuilt in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. With the Grand Canal as the moat and the amphibious gates juxtaposed, it is the only amphibious gate in China.

By 4 o'clock in the afternoon, there were no people in the park. Due to the limited time, we just walked around the Ruiguang Tower in a hurry, and then we looked around for Pingtan Bookstore and Wumen Bridge with our friends. Crossing the small bridge, climbing the tower, crossing the stone steps, almost around the garden, but I have never seen the Wumen Bridge. Wandering in the "Suzhou Bridge Photography Exhibition Area" of Wuxiang Temple, I suddenly heard the tinkling sound of strings coming from the end of the veranda and followed the sound. After the high case, a man and a woman are playing a night-mooring near maple bridge. This poem is full of the author's poetic meaning, and the singing method of Pingtan also has a beautiful charm, so the actors use vibrato, glide, breath, spurting and high.

Coming out of Wuxiang Temple, it's getting late, and the afterglow of the setting sun is sprinkled on the towers with upturned cornices, and the walls of the shadow barrier are lonely. Walking along the crib, I saw a white cat lurking on the opposite roof suddenly disappear from sight, as if it were an elf in a comic book.

When I came out, I just caught the last boat upstream of the park water. While rocking the boat, the old woman in national costume sang the melodious Jiangsu folk song: "Come to apricot blossom in the first month, pick an apricot blossom and get on the boat ..." Today, I can't remember the lyrics clearly, except that I have counted the flower names for twelve months. If I hadn't heard it with my own ears, no one would have believed that this beautiful song came from a peasant woman in her fifties and sixties. I couldn't help regretting that I didn't bring it.

Back in the city, it was already brightly lit. I wandered around the night market in Nagato and went to my mother's rice noodle shop. At that time, it was Yingying Yanyan, full of people. Looking out through the glass window, there are several colorful facade rooms with several banners floating in the air. It suddenly occurred to me that Nagato was the place where Cao Xueqin began to talk about the Red Chamber, and I suddenly returned to the old Suzhou two hundred years ago. ...

Tongli is located in Wujiang City, 20 kilometers away from Suzhou. The town is surrounded by five lakes and three rivers meet. 15 urban rivers crisscross and are divided into seven islands. 49 ancient bridges in Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties are called each other. Because water becomes a street, water becomes a river and water becomes a garden. Known as "Venice of the East", "Exhibition Hall of Ming and Qing Dynasties" and "Natural Photography City".

There are two kinds of roads and waterways from Suzhou to Tongli. The highway is about 1 hour, and the waterway is about 3 hours. Our tour group chose the waterway, because in a sense, the 30-mile waterway is only an indispensable scenery in my mind.

When I set foot on a cruise ship, the ship sailed on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. At this time, the weather is half cloudy and half sunny. There are about twenty or thirty passengers from all over the world in the cabin, including a Korean woman, about 30 years old, with a simple expression and more Japanese appearance. I sat there and exchanged money with the tour guide. There is also a family of three, probably because the locals just keep sending things to their mouths and are indifferent to the scenery outside. After watching the scenery through the window for a while, I finally ran to the bow and chatted with the boatman. It is said that I am from Henan. He only knows one Kaifeng, but unfortunately he has never left Suzhou for decades.

My interest has greatly increased. After answering his question about Bao Qingtian, I pointed to the plants on the water and asked him if the water was too dirty. He said that those things were originally used by rural people to feed pigs. When conditions are good, they can't be cleaned up, and they are useless. "Look, those workers are cleaning up the garbage on the water every day." Following his hand, he saw several boats on the shore and some people were fishing with nets. In fact, in my opinion, the clusters of plants floating in the water are not a landscape. In particular, some purple flowers are fascinating to death, sandwiched between the banks of the river and adjacent to the grass between them, giving people a unique flavor of water town.

After the boat left the city completely, I counted the stone bridges and took pictures in a hurry, as if to bid farewell to my childhood friends, because the boatman told me that two or three ancient bridges would be demolished in two months. The ship has arrived in baodai bridge after passing a water market with baked rice written by Lu Xun. According to the tour guide, baodai bridge was built in Yuanhe period of Tang Dynasty (1829). It was built by the then Suzhou secretariat Wang Zhongshu. In order to raise funds for bridge construction, Wang Zhongshu took the lead in donating his treasure belt, hence the name of baodai bridge. Baodai bridge is made of hard and plain stone, with a bridge length of 365,438+06.8m and 53 holes. It is the longest porous stone bridge among the existing ancient bridges in China. The baodai bridge we see now was rebuilt during the orthodox period of the Ming Dynasty. During Xianfeng period and War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression period of Qing Dynasty, due to the destruction of British imperialism and Japanese invaders, the damage was quite serious. After liberation, the people's government restored the ancient bridge according to the scale and shape of the Ming Dynasty. Baodai bridge not only improves the traffic conditions between the Grand Canal and Lake Dan Tai, but also becomes a beautiful belt floating on the water town of Yuan Ye because of its exquisite manufacturing and surrounding green mountains and green waters.

Lu Shiyi, a poet in the Qing Dynasty, passed by here and wrote: "Dan Tai Lake is as green as oil, baodai bridge is flat, 30,000 peach trees are planted, and spring outing among flowers every year." The most beautiful time in baodai bridge is the bright moon. At that time, every bridge opening had a moon reflected on the lake-"Yao Taiwan lost its phoenix head and hairpin, and the jade belt lay in the water and reflected the moss until the Mid-Autumn Festival moonlit night, and the 53 holes were illuminated".

After listening to the introduction of the tour guide, I was not only wishful thinking. If a beautiful woman stands between heaven and earth and a boundless river is her skirt, then baodai bridge should be a silk scarf worn by Yu Pei.

After leaving baodai bridge, as soon as the ship turned the corner, a deep and long waterway was pulled between the banks of the river, which were mixed with trees, weeds, crops and farms. At this time, the clusters of plants in the water are even more picturesque. Occasionally, one or two peasant women hoe the ground, and there are one or two houses by the water. In front of a house, a girl of fifteen or sixteen was washing vegetables, and a group of geese were playing and chasing among the silent grass, green water and bamboo fences ... This scene can't help but remind me of ancient times. So much love is related to this river. Presumably, this is far from the social order and can stimulate people's own lives. Swim back from there, in the middle of the water "Did the poet see such a young girl on a drifting boat? He forgot all the worldly fetters and couldn't help but pour out his love to her.

Abandon the ship and go ashore, and enter Tongli with the guide. Because the town was under construction at that time, I saw the story of the opera "Pearl Tower" happen here as soon as I entered the door, and everything else was similar to Zhouzhuang, which I visited last year. Along the way, only Pinziqiao and Tuisi Garden left a deep impression on me.

Pinzi Bridge refers to the three bridges of Taiping, Geely and Changqing, which were built in Qing Dynasty. They are small and exquisite, simple and elegant, distributed in Pinzi, and are the three treasures in Tongli Bridge. There is a custom of "crossing three bridges to get lucky" when the town residents get married, the baby is full moon and the old people celebrate their birthdays.

Re-thinking Garden is taken from Zuo Zhuan, "Believe and think, make up". Lan Sheng, the director of the garden, was appointed as the garrison platform in Si Liu and the supervisor in Fengyang, Anhui during the Tongzhi period. The designer is Long Yuan, a master of poetry, calligraphy and painting.

According to legend, before the garden was built, Ren Lansheng was too soft-hearted to suppress the Nian army and angered Empress Dowager Cixi. Lafayette sent a letter to announce that he would go to Beijing to state his crime and face Cixi step by step in court. Ren Lansheng answered with the word "yes" and finally answered Lafayette, "What should I do in the future?" Shi Yun: "Think back and then serve the country", thus avoiding a fatal disaster.

Due to the limitation of terrain, the traditional pattern of Tuisi Garden was changed to a horizontal pattern, from west to east, with residential buildings in the west, courtyards in the middle and gardens in the east. Its architecture makes full use of various techniques such as hall, platform, building, pavilion, corridor, bridge, pavilion, pavilion, hall, dry boat, water boat, etc., and it is patchwork and beautiful.

From the old cold garden to the waterside pavilion in the garden, the pavilion eaves hang above the clear water in the pool, the blue sky and white clouds are reflected in the water, and several red fish float in it. There is a mirror on the wall to enjoy the scenery, and there is a garden in the garden, especially on a full moon night. The moon in the sky, the moon in the water and the moon in the mirror set each other off as an interest, taking the meaning of heaven and earth.

Standing on the side wall, thinking about the church, the garden has a panoramic view. It is really difficult for Ren Lansheng to think of going back to be an official at this time. It seems that his entry into officialdom was really redeemed.

After many twists and turns, I boarded the lady's attic. Looking down, the most striking ones are Jingui, Yin Gui and Dangui trees in the osmanthus room. The wind is out of date, and the flowers are in array. Although there are tourists all over, I can't bear to shake these fragrant petals away. I remember that there was also a foreign tour group going to the attic. I couldn't help waving to my friends downstairs when I heard them admiring the scenery of the garden again and again. Perhaps my actions infected them and provoked two fat foreigners to shout at the bottom: "hello!" "

By the time we returned to the Soviet Union, the sun was already hanging obliquely on the trunk, and an apricot red flag was floating across the river bank to say goodbye to us.

In the afternoon 17: 30, because the ship was blocked halfway, we took CMB to another pier. Everyone is complaining, but I am glad in my heart. Although you can't see the sunset on the river, you can always see the scenery of water towns along the way. Therefore, when the people in the car closed their eyes because of a hard day's work, the rice fields, buildings and trees that flashed outside the window became the scenery to say goodbye to me. Farewell, Old City Gate of Gusu ...

Driving all the way, the light outside the window gradually dimmed, and finally I could only see a light burning into a human galaxy, and the car had reached the dock. We took the ship "Paradise". Jump into the cabin, can't wait to open the curtains, you can see half the sky. It was about 19: 30. The edge of the sky is surrounded by some clouds, and the moon is covered. Only a little light reminded people of her existence.

After washing, the boat has left the dock. Now I look out. On the vast river, I can't see anything sitting in the cabin except one or two fishing fires that occasionally shine in the distance! Like a semi-finished dream awakened by people in the most wonderful place, my mood suddenly sank. Although I know that the mountains change at dusk, there is nothing like late spring and late autumn, but I think I finally came to the river, and I was deceived by the weather and the cabin. Such hatred, daytime fatigue swept the whole body with the moist smell of the river outside the window, and in endless loneliness, the noise of the engine outside became a lullaby.

When I woke up, I suddenly realized that the semicircle of the moon had a bright eye on my head. Although the thin clouds around me did not disperse, they could not cover the bright moonlight, flooded the river, and layers of silver light appeared with the waves.

I almost jumped up, ignoring the pain of hitting my head on the bulkhead and busy waking my sleeping friend. So I read the sentence: "There is no dust on the river, and there is a solitary wheel in the sky and the moon." I am grateful that the sky has not failed me. Although it is a broken moon, it has made me fulfill my wish for nearly 20 years.

"Water country night frost, cold mountain ash. Who said today thousands of miles away? It is as long as a dream. "Represented by Xue Tao's Farewell to Friends, since ancient times, the bright moon on the river has always been associated with the poet's sorrow of parting. I don't know how many vagrants of dynasties shared the same melancholy in the same moonlight and the same journey. The most representative example is Du Fu's experience in We Are All Unhappy-at the end of the day, for a pipa girl, the moonlight is only "when the river mysteriously widens towards the full moon" and "and we see the white autumn moon entering the river"; Another example is Zhang, who also expressed his deep feelings about the meaning of life: "Life is endless, handed down from generation to generation, and the moon is only similar year after year" ... Who among them, like me, has a pious yearning for life between Suzhou and Hangzhou and feels a secret happiness and warmth for life?

If Suzhou's Wunong soft language and garden culture are embroidered into a three-dimensional China landscape painting, then Hangzhou in my heart is the West Lake with a cup of Longjing tea made of Yue Opera and poetry culture. Since the Southern Song Dynasty, a wisp of fragrance has drunk the history of China for more than 1000 years.

The first time I came into contact with Hangzhou was when I recited the sentence in a Tang poem when I was a child: "Let Hangzhou become a Bianzhou", but it was because there was a Zhejiang Xiaobaihuayue Opera Troupe and Mao Tao Wei that I participated in it for nearly ten years. ...

All night, I chatted with my friends by the window, from He Miaomiao to Shaoxing Opera, from Suzhou and Hangzhou to Hangzhou, from childhood to youth, from work to family, until dawn. I don't know when I fell asleep, but it was the morning of the third day, and the sound of the river beating against the coast outside the window woke me up. There are many people standing on the deck, and the old man in white on the lawn on the shore is doing morning exercises, and his sword is like heaven and man. In a hedge, weeping willows pour out from it, the morning breeze blows, and heaven is in sight.

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Introduction and pictures of Jiangsu scenic spots:

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