What does the height of a tsunami depend on?

The height of the waves generated by the tsunami depends on the depth of the sea. Waves are waves that propagate along a certain direction when the water quality points leave the equilibrium position and vibrate periodically. The vibration of water quality points can form kinetic energy, and the fluctuation of sea waves can produce potential energy. The cumulative amount of these two energies is amazing.

In the global ocean, the total energy of wind waves and swells alone is equivalent to half of the energy reaching the outside of the earth. The energy of the wave rolls forward along the direction of wave propagation. Therefore, ocean waves are actually wave propagation of energy. The wave fluctuation period ranges from a few tenths of a second to several hours, the wave height ranges from several millimeters to several tens of meters, and the wavelength ranges from several millimeters to several Qian Qian meters.

The extended data wave spectrum not only shows which waves are composed inside the waves, but also gives the external characteristics of the waves. For example, theoretically, the heights and average periods of various characteristic waves can be calculated from the frequency spectrum. By using these characteristics and the probability density distribution of wave heights and periods, we can estimate which waves with different heights and lengths are formed when waves appear.

If the spectrum of waves is known, the internal and external structures of waves can be described, so spectrum is a very useful concept. In fact, the study of ocean waves (including many application problems) is related to the Dachuan spectrum.

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