Fuyuan hanfengfu photography

"Spring, warbler feather new embroidery. A hundred herbs are looking for flowers and fighting for beauty, only betting on a bucket full of pearls. In the evening, I put on makeup and danced in front of the court. Who said that his waist was slim and he turned to laugh at the king? "

In the beautiful singing of the poet Li Bai's poem "Qing Ping Le", the audience ushered in the longest day in Chang 'an in the Tang Dynasty.

Adapted from the literary genius Ma Boyong's "The Longest Day in Chang 'an", the costume suspense drama of the same name has enjoyed an excellent reputation since its launch, and it has been stable at a high score of 8.4 since its launch. In particular, the clothing scene that is about to be blown up in the play has set off a new wave of tang style aesthetics in the circle of social friends.

If the Tang Dynasty presented in Chen Kaige's Legend of the Demon Cat is full of splendor and majesty, then The Longest Day in Chang 'an adds more fireworks and human touch.

On Deng Huachu's busy street, people who play, pawns who sell, good overseas artists, rare treasures, missionaries and magicians, and all kinds of people and things are all contained in Chang 'an with a broad mind. In addition to streets, buildings and scenery, people's costumes close to "historical facts" are the most intuitive things to express the weather in Datang, which brings strong visual improvement.

"The Longest Day in Chang 'an" invited the daughter of Japanese imperial director Akira Kurosawa and a famous fashion stylist to participate in fashion modeling guidance, and the literary team made armor. In addition, there is a group of folk teams that have been quietly engaged in the restoration of ancient Chinese costumes 12 years, that is, the China Costume Restoration Team.

China Clothing Restoration Group was established in 2007, which is a small group specializing in the research and restoration of ancient clothing.

The team aims to restore the true face of China's clothing. From aristocrats to Shu Ren, from officials, musicians, ladies-in-waiting, to ordinary farmers, their faces are textual researched and restored one by one, so as to reproduce the mental outlook of Han ancestors and let more people who like Hanfu get to know them at close range.

Liu Shuai, the founder of the team, originally studied painting, but later fell in love with Hanfu and switched to fashion design. In fact, the original intention of the rehabilitation group was simply to like and love the beauty of tradition.

At that time, few people were engaged in the restoration of ancient Chinese costumes, and the trend of modern Hanfu revival movement did not rise. Without reference and imitation, they had to find ancient books, museum materials, murals and pottery figurines to explore and research, and slowly began to make some real things.

"The costume system and archaeological excavation reports of the past dynasties, together with the murals of the Tang tombs, Dunhuang murals, female figurines of the main tomb in Jinxiang County, female figurines of the Tang Dynasty in Astana, Xinjiang, Wu Huifei coffin line carving, murals of the Tang emperors' tombs, and costumes of the Tang Dynasty in the China Silk Museum, have provided us with a strong historical reference."

When it comes to reference materials, the leader of the team's art group said with great treasure.

China Dress Repair Team was established on 12. Up to now, 400 sets of costumes and makeup have been restored, and two collections of China Costumes and Han and Jin Costumes have been published.

Restoring an ancient costume not only involves a lot of textual research at the beginning, but also involves the inheritance of many traditional handicrafts.

The production process of the whole set of clothing has to go through many complicated processes, such as restoration and textual research, style design, pattern repair, customized fabric, edition reduction, plate making, repeated trial edition, clothing production and so on.

It is extremely difficult to customize fabrics individually. Real fabrics with a little longer history were mostly damaged when unearthed, and the color was basically oxidized, so what color it was at that time can only be speculated according to ancient records. Most of them have to dye plants by hand and color textiles with natural plant dyes.

The production technology of most fabrics is completely different from that of ancient times. Restoring an ancient costume may involve various technologies that are difficult to complete now, such as fabric ornamentation and materials, printing and dyeing and fixing technology, embroidery decoration and so on.

Nowadays, many traditional handicrafts, such as making valerian and playing traditional raw silk fabrics, are rarely used, so we need to go to various museums and silk fabric markets in China to find them. If they can't find them, they must do it themselves.

What the rehabilitation team should do is to restore the original appearance as much as possible, so it is not enough to just make clothes. In addition to clothes, there are shoes, hats, scarves, hair accessories, jewelry pendants and so on. Due to the lack of a lot of early information, they can only keep trying and improving in mistakes and imperfections.

Although the production process was difficult and few people could care about and understand what they did, they persisted for more than ten years.

In their view, the aesthetics of ancient people in China were very advanced, and many things contained very heavy cultural significance, but that was a long time ago. Now people in China have forgotten all those traditional things. What they want to do is find them one by one.

In recent years, Hanfu fever has become a common phenomenon among some young people. Nowadays, it is very common to wear Hanfu out of the street, and passers-by are no longer mistaken for Hanfu, kimono or even ancient costume as in the past.

The official media also gradually began to pay attention to Hanfu culture. From the exquisite Hanfu show in CCTV's popular cultural variety "National Treasure" last year to the focus on clothing in Chang 'an's "The Longest Day" this summer, it shows that Hanfu culture is not limited to small folk groups.

China's traditional costumes are affirmed by modern people, which is also a manifestation of cultural self-confidence.

Facing the changes of ancient and modern times, the aesthetic standards of Hanfu dress will inevitably change. In order to conform to people's aesthetics and facilitate daily travel, many Hanfu merchants have also made some improvements in their styles, which has led to some "factional" disputes between Hanfu and robes.

The rehabilitation team is also optimistic about the improvement of Hanfu. They think that clothes are worn by people, people-oriented and the ancients will make changes according to their own needs. As long as Hanfu conforms to the traditional aesthetics, it looks good, neat and consistent.

"Now that the improved version of Hanfu has appeared, there is a' faction' dispute between the robes of Hanfu. If all factions develop in different directions, a hundred schools of thought contend and a hundred flowers blossom, Hanfu suitable for society and contemporary young people will be developed. No matter which flower you are, it is a flower when it blooms.

We can accept improvement, but what we can't accept is that improvement is not good-looking. You must ensure aesthetic standards and texture, otherwise it is called bad change. No matter what you do, you must have an initial heart. "

The rehabilitation team has always been immersed in research. In order to promote Hanfu culture, they have also done a lot of grounded science.

In addition to running around in universities, museums and cultural relics bureaus to show Hanfu, a section of "The Most Beautiful Graduation Season" was also played on the short video platform that young people like to play, showing the beauty of Hanfu to more people.

Then there is the Mid-Autumn Festival party in cooperation with Hunan Satellite TV, providing clothes for "The Longest Day in Chang 'an" and so on. It is all to push the cultural heritage of Hanfu to the eyes of more people.

Clothing repair team 12 years to stick to it, step by step to produce results. From these hot-blooded young people, they show a kind of cultural consciousness and self-confidence, which is self-confidence in the whole ancient culture of China.

"A thousand years of prosperity and glory, there is no greater city than Chang 'an." Li Bi said to Zhang Xiaojing.

"The beauty of clothes is called China, and the ceremony is called summer." There is nothing like Hanfu to show the beauty of China.