How do I develop the film?

There are several introductions. Take your time.

Developing film: developer and fixer are needed (the specific dosage can be found. We use toner and developer, but it is much more convenient to use liquid, and the dosage needs to be determined according to your own needs); There are also beakers and stirring rods used to prepare shadow water and color water; There is also a thermometer to measure the temperature, which is very important; You have to use hot water, just boil it at home; There are also the most important reels and film reels, which are used to hold films. You have to roll it yourself by hand. It's not difficult, but you can't see the light when you roll. So, we also need a dark bag. When we roll the film, we will do it in a dark bag, put a pair of scissors in it, and finally cut it off from the film shell after rolling it. That's about it. Send a big photo: it's a sea trip ... because we used very old machines at that time, I wonder if there is such a thing now. You can go to Wukesong's photosensitive material market and ask what machine is used to adjust the film, enlarge the film, set the exposure time and so on. Then developing and fixing the solution; Three trays and three clips are used for the final development of photos.

First, there is a darkroom. If there is no darkroom, you can also operate in the bathroom. A developing tank, developer and fixing agent, a red light and a green light, and a paper cutter with a ruler. If you need to enlarge the photo, you need a magnifying glass, three large plates or pots (enamel or stainless steel). A thermometer, a measuring cup and a thermostat If you develop color photos, remember to prepare a pair of rubber gloves because color photos need strict water temperature, because developer and fixator are chemicals that will harm your skin. These are basically enough. If possible, you'd better prepare a dryer or glazing machine.

It's simple.

Go to the photographic equipment store and buy a developing tank (around 15 yuan), a transparent plastic tape (3 yuan) with 135 film, as well as developing powder and fixing powder (0.35 yuan per package). The amount of developing powder and fixing powder depends on the number of films you want to develop. Generally, a pack of developing powder and fixing powder can develop 5 ~ ~ 10.

That's all the expenses.

All operations should be carried out under dark red light. You need to know some essentials such as deployment environment, deployment temperature and deployment time.

Black-and-white film development: D76 particle developer, acid fixing solution.

Developing photos: D72 developer, acid fixing solution.

1. Load the film into the developing tank in a dark environment.

2. Soak in water, and pour out after 1 min.

3. Pour the developer, stir, stop, stir again ... and stir 15-20 seconds per minute. Less stirring, fine particles and low contrast, but uneven development may be insufficient. After 4-5 minutes, pour off the developer, rinse with water 1-2 times, and pour in the fixing solution.

4. During the fixing period, you can stir more, shake it or shake it. Generally, the fixed time is about 10 minute.

5. Pour out the fixing solution and rinse it with water.

6. Open the developing tank, take out the film and dry it in the shade.

Most students who play film only develop black and white film manually because the temperature requirement is low. In fact, color film can be developed by hand, and the developed film is absolutely no worse than professional development, including reverse film!

Because I don't play reverse films, I only talk about negative processing. In fact, it is no problem to reverse the negative after processing.

1. Equipment to be prepared:

Developing tank-I personally think it's best to be plastic, which has good thermal insulation performance. I use AP tanks;

Dark bag-I use a quilt instead of hehe;

Scissors;

Thermometer-it is best to be sensitive and accurate to 0. 1 degree, both mercury and electrons can be used;

Measuring cup;

Timer;

(All the above are used in black and white darkrooms, and the color is no problem. The following are necessary for color printing. )

PID thermostat-used to control constant temperature;

Heating rod-to achieve sufficient power, 300 W；;

Thermal probe.

These three kinds are connected together, and the connection method can be bought by the supplier. Why does it have to be a thermostat? This is because the temperature of developing negative film and reversal film is about 38 degrees, which is much higher than that of black and white, and the error is within 0.2 degrees, which is not negotiable, otherwise it will cause color cast.

This is my humble equipment:

PID+ heating rod+probe+power cord

PID temperature control panel

This set of temperature control equipment can heat, and basically control the temperature of your water bath within a certain range. Here is a quick way, that is, you can add hot water to cold water to reach the desired temperature, such as C-4 1 process 38C, and then control the thermostat, which can save a lot of time.

C-4 1 washing process:

Process temperature time

1, color display -37.8+-0.2-3 inches 15 inches.

2. Bleaching -37.8+-3-6' 30 "

3. Wash with water -37.8+-3-3' 15 "

4. Fix -24-4 1-6' 30 "

5. Wash -37.8+-3-3' 15 "

6. Stable -24-4 1- 1' 30 "

Regarding the temperature, it should be noted that only 3' 15 "with color display is the most demanding in the whole process, so controlling this 3' 15" is the most important but also the most difficult. Because the temperature coordination between the empty tank and the liquid medicine is not easy to master, for example, the liquid medicine temperature reaches 37.8 degrees, which may drop by 1-2 degrees after being poured into the tank, so the liquid medicine temperature must be higher than 37.8 degrees. As for how high it is, you still have to practice it yourself. The control will be better if there is water bath preheating before color development, but some people do not recommend it. Personally, I didn't find any problems.

In the final analysis, in fact, the key to color film development is to control the temperature and time, and develop in strict accordance with the C-4 1 process, and the results will definitely satisfy you. I only developed three rolls of black and white, and then I began to develop colors. Although I didn't have enough experience at first, I followed the steps and the effect was as good as before.

How to develop black and white film?

Equipment:

1. Magnifier: The magnifying glass is used to project the negative image onto the photographic paper on the workbench with a light source.

Exposure.

2. potion: there are three kinds of potions: developer, stop-shadow solution and.

Repair solution. Common brands are Kodak, Ilford, Agfa Agfa (that's me! ) and so on.

Developer: As the name implies, it is used for development. Its ingredient is silver bromide.

The black-and-white photos you see are actually restored silver particles.

Freeze-frame solution: a buffer before the negative film or photographic paper enters the fixing solution after development.

Solution, the composition of which is glacial acetic acid, temporarily fixes the image so that the image will not

Running around (hehe! It seems that it can be posted to the marvle version)

Fixing solution: The image is firmly fixed on photographic paper or negative, and the component is baking soda (hypo).

Other special potions: such as waterproof liquid (to prevent water droplets from forming on the surface of photographic paper or film)

Very ugly water spots, if formed on the negative, it's over)

(Dyed paper) and so on.

3. Timer: Just like the shutter controls the camera, the timer controls the exposure time of the magnifying glass for some physiological reasons.

People with better clocks may not need to use them.

4. Photographic paper: There are also many kinds, and the commonly used ones are just like the types of negatives. The sensitivity of photographic paper is about

It's ASA200. Not sensitive to red and yellow-green light sources, but not too bright.

Will be sensitive! At the same time, because most negatives are full color, safety lights are not sold.

By the way, the first thing I did when I was a beginner in the darkroom was to develop the film under the safety light, of course.

A beautiful black dragon took it home and nailed it to the wall as a warning.

5. Safety light: generally red or yellow-green, other colors have never been seen before, if used as a light bulb.

Light source, remember not to be too bright, otherwise it is not safe at all! All the safety lights on the market

It is very expensive. I suggest you make one yourself. What I am most proud of is that one day I was surprised.

Think: Why not use red light-emitting diodes as safety lights? Economical and practical, related to production.

Talk to you later. We can talk a lot.

6. Clip: used to clip photographic paper. This medicine is either strong acid or strong alkali unless you wear gloves.

I suggest you don't embarrass yourself. I once saw an innocent man in a darkroom.

When I was a junior, I was stirring a bucket of water with my hands, thinking that I was washing my hands. I didn't know it was actually when I asked.

It's preparing a negative developer! If you are interested, throw in a widely used test paper.

You can know why she later washed tap water in the potion for half an hour.

7. Film developing tank: This is specially used for developing negative films. From the film being rolled into the film processing tank to the final development, it is absolutely

There is no light.

8. Thermometer: The ideal temperature for developing negative film is 20 degrees Celsius, so the temperature is very important for a high-quality darkroom.

Yes

9. Measuring cup measuring cylinder: it is available in general chemical equipment stores and is used to measure the dilution ratio of liquid medicine.

Basically, with these things, you can start to enlarge the photos. Of course, please darken your room first.

10. Frame pressing: an auxiliary device for enlarging photos, which can flatten the photo paper on the frame and can

Adjusting the size of the surrounding white edges is generally not cheap.

1 1. pedal starter: enlarging photos is actually an exercise, sometimes it is more like singing, often with two hands.

Playing shadow games under a magnifying glass, it is difficult to have a third hand to press.

On and off of the timer, stepping on the starter is the third hand.

12. Shading rod: used to reduce light when magnifying. You can buy it at the photographic equipment store for hundreds of dollars, or you can

Stick some wires on the cardboard DIY. If there is no wire, just use your finger!

13. air conditioning: take photos in summer and often take a bath by yourself. Yes, if there is air conditioning.

Take a good bath.

14. Voice: It is inevitable to be bored when you are locked in a dark room when developing photos. Listen to some music and cross talk.

Relax, so as not to waste photographic paper because of random washing. Stereo is especially useful for people who are afraid of the dark.

But please don't play the shiny stereo, you will regret it.

The above items are used to enhance the interest of darkroom, which varies according to individual needs.

How to develop black and white film?

Civil edition:

Equipment preparation

Required (recommended)

Plastic tank 1 l *4

Plastic measuring cylinder 1 l * 1, 2 l * 1.

Glass measuring cylinder 50ml * 1, 500ml * 1

Long thermometer (a thermometer with larger scale and clearer scale is better)

Syringe * 2 (5ml is enough)

Water bath bucket * 1 (you can use the square vegetable basket sold in the supermarket)

Funnel * 1

Large bucket with handle * 1 (for recovering working fluid)

Sponge *2

Punching tank * 1

Film extractor * 1

Dark bag * 1

A set of film drying clips

Medicine (prepared according to the needs of each tablet, this example is for reference only)

unessential

Isolation gloves (a big bag 10 yuan) and waterproof electronic watch.

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step

Prepare working fluid

developer

First, LC29 is diluted to 700 ml according to the ratio of 1+ 19, that is, 35 ml of LC29 is taken out and poured into 1 liter plastic measuring cylinder.

Then add RO water to the scale of 700 ml.

Rapid liquid preparation

ILFOSTOP is also diluted to 700 ml according to the ratio of 1+ 19, that is, 35 ml of LC29 is taken out and poured into a plastic measuring cylinder of 1 liter.

Then add RO water to the scale of 700 ml.

Fixing liquid

Dilute the rapid fixative solution to 700 ml according to the ratio of 1+4, that is, take out 140 ml rapid fixative solution and pour it into a 500 ml glass measuring cylinder.

Add RO water to 500ml scale, then pour it into a plastic tank of 1l, fill it with fixing solution, and then add RO water to 200ml scale in the measuring cylinder.

Then pour this 200 ml into a 1 liter plastic can and fill it with fixing solution.

Low pressure fluid

Dilute Galerie detergent to 700 ml according to the ratio of 1+4, that is, take out 140 ml of Galerie detergent and pour it into the plastic measuring cylinder of 1 liter.

Then add RO water to the scale of 700 ml.

Suck 2 ml of ILFOTOL with a syringe and dilute it to 400 ml with water.

Shangpian

First, take the film out of the film box with a film puller, and slowly load it into the film reel attached to the film punching slot in a closed dark bag.

Put it into the perforated slot, and make sure that the slot cover is tight to prevent light leakage. Then, take out the punching groove and prepare for the cleaning process.

Prewetting

Before entering the development process, the film can be soaked in clean water for about one minute for "pre-wetting".

The purpose is to make the photographic emulsion of the film absorb water and expand evenly, so that the development effect is more moderate and uniform.

develop

Pour the developer into the film-making tank, make a spiral rotation, hold both ends of the tank with both hands, make a figure-eight rotation, revolution and rotation,

Rotate 6 times in about 5 seconds, which takes about 5~6 minutes. The intermediate process rotates 10 seconds and stops for 50 seconds. Then pour out the developer and rinse quickly.

※ If the developer finds some undissolved particles at the bottom of the cup, don't pour these undissolved particles together when developing the negative! ※

Add the instant liquid into the instant machine and rotate for 30 seconds to 1 min. Then pour out the emergency liquid and rinse it quickly.

fixed

Adding a fixed liquid, spirally rotating, holding both ends of the tank body by the left hand and the right hand respectively, and performing splayed rotation, revolution and rotation,

It takes about 3~7 minutes to rotate 6 times in about 5 seconds, and the middle process rotates 10 seconds and stops for 50 seconds.

Then pour out the fixing solution, rinse it four times, shake it 15 seconds each time, and then pour out the water.

After fixing, the negative can be taken out. ※.

Go to Haibo

Adding depressurizing liquid, performing spiral rotation, and holding both ends of the tank body by the left hand and the right hand respectively, performing splayed rotation, revolution and rotation.

Turn it 6 times in about 5 seconds, which takes about 1~2 minutes, then pour out the decompression liquid and rinse it for 5 minutes.

Remove water stains

Soak the negative in the water spot removing solution for about 65438 0 minutes, then take it out, fix it with a film hanger, soak the sponge in the water spot removing solution, and then wring it out.

Clamp the front and back of the membrane from top to bottom at an angle of about 45 degrees, and wipe off the water stains on the front and back of the membrane again.

Pay a little attention to the strength, just moderate, not too hard, so as not to damage the perforation of the negative. )

It takes about 1~2 hours to dry the film, and then it can be disassembled and installed.

During the whole operation, the temperature of water bath should be controlled at 65438 09℃. ※.