Basic knowledge of Hanfu

1. How much do you know about Hanfu?

1. The structure of Hanfu

Hanfu is cut from cloth with a width of two feet and two inches (about 50cm). It is divided into ten parts: collar, lapel, gusset, gusset, train, sleeves, jacket, belt and robe. Take two pieces of cloth of equal length, fold them in half to serve as the front placket and back train, and sew the middle seam of the back. If there is no gusset on the front, it is a straight-collar double-breasted jacket. If you take another piece of cloth, cut it into two gussets, and sew them on the left and right lapels, it will be a right-gusset garment with a diagonal collar. The middle seam of the front and back skirts is called the 軻, which is the Du meridian and the Ren meridian. The gusset is on the right side of the Ren meridian, so it is called the right gusset. The length of the train is divided into waist, knee, and foot. According to the length of the train, there are three lengths of Hanfu: jacket, train, and deep clothing. The seam between the sleeves and the train is called 袼, and the cuffs are called qu. A complete set of Hanfu usually has three layers: Xiaoyi (underwear), middle coat, and coat.

1. Cross the right collar

In Hanfu, when the left lapel and the right lapel cross on the chest, a crossover of collars is naturally formed, so it is vividly called "Jiao Ling"; the two straight lines of the cross collar intersect around the center line of the clothes, which represents the symmetry of traditional culture and shows a unique righteousness. It represents the need for impartiality in life. If Hanfu expresses the unity of nature and man, the cross collar means It represents the earth in the round sky and the square place. The earth is the way of humanity, which is square and upright. The sleeves are round coats, which represent the round sky in the round sky and the square place. The expression of this round-shaped local science on Hanfu is also a manifestation of ancient Chinese culture.

The most typical collar type of Hanfu is "cross collar and right lapel", that is, the collar is directly connected to the lapel, and the lapels cross on the chest, and the left lapel presses the right lapel. In appearance It shows a "y" shape on the top, forming the effect of the whole garment tilting to the right. 衽, the original meaning is the lapel of clothes. The left front lapel covers the right axillary frenulum, and the right lapel is covered inside, which is called the right lapel, and vice versa, it is called the left lapel. This is the tradition of "turning the collar on the right side" that has remained unchanged in the styles of Hanfu through the ages. It is also inseparable from China's historical thought of "respecting the right side". These characteristics are obviously different from the clothing of other ethnic groups.

Another supplement to "cross-collar" is "straight collar" and "pan collar". A straight collar means that the collar goes directly parallel and vertically from the chest without crossing at the chest. Some have ties on the chest, while others are directly open without ties. This kind of straight-collared clothes is usually worn outside cross-collared Hanfu, and is often used in daily outerwear styles such as blouses, half-armored jackets, and jackets. The pan collar is a more common style in men's clothing. The collar is plate-shaped and round, and it is also right-folded. There is a tie on the right shoulder. It was used in official uniforms of the Han and Tang Dynasties. There are also pan collar styles in everyday clothes. .

2. Bao Yi and wide sleeves

Since ancient times, Hanfu has a long robe with wide sleeves and a short robe with wide sleeves. Compared with Western clothing of the same period, Hanfu has indisputable excellence in human nature. While Westerners use breastplates and skirts to restrict the development of women's bodies, the wide Hanfu has realized the characteristic of allowing the body to stretch at will.

The sleeves of Hanfu are also called "sleeves", and their shape is relatively unique in the entire history of national costumes in the world. The sleeves are actually round coats, which represent the roundness of the sky and the roundness of the earth. Wide and long sleeves are a distinctive feature of dress sleeves in Hanfu, but not all Hanfu are like this. Hanfu dresses generally have wide sleeves, showing grace, elegance, solemnity, elegance and agility. For a long time, the standard style of sleeves of Hanfu has been rounded sleeves, which is the case in all the clothes from the pre-Qin to Han dynasties without exception. For a long time, except for the open sleeves in ordinary clothes after the Tang Dynasty, the mainstream of Hanfu sleeves is still round sleeves.

"Sleeves are wide and long" is the main feature of the sleeves of Hanfu dresses, but it is not the only style feature. Small sleeves and short sleeves are also more common in Hanfu. There are mainly the following uses: clothing for common people involved in daily physical labor, military uniforms for sergeants and generals, winter clothing with tight sleeves to keep warm, etc. Sometimes the economic, cultural and aesthetic concerns of different dynasties in history are different, and they also have different expressions in sleeve shapes. For example, during the Han and Tang dynasties, aristocratic dresses mostly used wide sleeves, while during the Song and Ming dynasties, regular clothes often used small sleeves.

3. Lace-up hidden buttons

The hidden buttons in Hanfu actually include buckles and no buttons. Generally speaking, Hanfu does not use buttons. Even if there are buttons, the buttons are hidden rather than exposed. Usually, a knot is used to tie the clothes with a belt. At the same time, there are large belts and long belts around the waist. All the straps are made from the same fabric used to make the clothes. There are two pairs of straps on a piece of clothing. For practical purposes, one strap under the left armpit is a pair of knotted knots with the straps on the right lapel. The strap under the right armpit is a pair of knotted straps with the straps on the left lapel. To tie, knot and tie the two pairs of straps respectively to complete the dressing process.

The other is the large belt and long belt around the waist, which are not only practical, but also decorative, and also have symbolic meaning, symbolizing power. The obi of Hanfu is wider than that of Kimono.

2. Knowledge about Hanfu culture

Hanfu is the full name of "Han nationality traditional clothing".

It began with the Yellow Emperor, was prepared by Yao and Shun, was finalized in the Zhou Dynasty, and flourished in the Ming Dynasty. Through hand-painted decoration, cutting, sewing, ironing and other techniques, it integrates unique dyeing, weaving and embroidery. , with the main features of crossed collars, right lapels, laces and hidden buttons, is the projection of "Chinese civilization" and "the country of etiquette" on clothing, showing Chinese style and oriental aesthetics.

From the time when the Yellow Emperor "draped his clothes to rule the world", all the way to the Han nationality costumes before the Qing Dynasty. Although it has gone through changes, its most important shape characteristics of "crossing the collar and right lapel, top and lower skirt" have never changed.

Extended information

The current situation of Hanfu culture

With the return of traditional culture, various forms of Hanfu weddings, Hanfu opening ceremonies, Hanfu sacrificial ceremonies, etc. Hanfu "shows" are frequently staged in mainland China. The craze for "Hanfu" reflects the people's increasing attention to cultural traditions, but whether it is the "travel" experience of feather fan scarves and Eguan Bodai, or the awakening of traditional culture, the "shape" and "quality" in cultural inheritance The dispute has increasingly become the focus of attention from all parties.

After more than 10 years of development, Hanfu has gradually entered the public’s aesthetic vision from the cultural expression symbol of a niche youth group. Behind the changes in aesthetics, what cannot be avoided is the traditional Chinese culture contained in Hanfu that has lasted for thousands of years and is pushing young people to the forefront of trends.

China News Network - The stunning charm of Hanfu, the trendy traditional culture is recognized and explored by young people

China News Network - Hong Kong college students' "show" of Hanfu cultural inheritance leads to a debate over "form" and "quality"

3. What is the evolution process of Hanfu? Please tell us the basic knowledge of Hanfu

1. The definition of Hanfu: it does not refer to "Han Dynasty clothing", but to "the nationality of the Han nation" apparel".

Styles of Hanfu: There are mainly types such as the top and lower skirt system (the upper skirt refers to the lower skirt in ancient times), the deep skirt system (the upper skirt and lower skirt are sewn together), and the underskirt system (the undershirt is a short coat). Among them, the mian robe with a top and lower skirt is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; the deep robe is the regular dress for officials and scholars, and the underskirt is the favorite wear of women.

Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes on top and long trousers on bottom. 2. Basic questions and answers about Hanfu 2006-4-18 China Clothing Style Network 1 The origin of Hanfu Because we are a nation that is cautious about chasing the past, so although the Shang and Zhou Dynasties did have styles that were closer to the double-breasted style, on the whole we have retained the ancestors The initial choice... This is the origin of Jiao Ling You Ren.

As for long sleeves and wide sleeves, they may be customs developed by the upper class after the accumulation of wealth. However, because Confucius valued big sleeves (sewing clothes) at that time, they became an essential element and prominent element in the decoration of scholars. Characteristics (of course, also reflects our concept of life). About five thousand years ago, during the Yangshao Culture Period of the Neolithic Age in China, people's lives became increasingly stable, and primitive agriculture and textile industries emerged. They began to use woven linen to make clothes, and later invented silkworm breeding and silk spinning. , people's clothes are becoming more and more perfect day by day.

With the development of productive forces and social division of labor and the disintegration of primitive society, there has been a qualitative change in the development process of human society, transitioning from a classless society to a class society. Since then, clothing has become a tool for the ruling class to "show their reputation and distinguish their authority."

The emergence of crowns in the Yellow Emperor's era was aimed at the difference in rank. There began to be distinctions between nobles and nobles, and there were differences between noble and inferior, and a clothing system gradually formed. 2 The concept of Hanfu Hanfu is the abbreviation of Han clothing: mainly Han clothing formed in the process of natural cultural development and ethnic integration before the end of Ming Dynasty.

As an independent clothing system, Hanfu has formed a unique cultural background and national style during the inheritance and development of history. It has formed distinctive style characteristics and is obviously different from other ethnic groups in my country. The traditional costumes of any nation in the world are qualitatively different from modern costumes in style. Han costumes are extensive and profound.

Hanfu is the national costume of the Han nationality, which was once destroyed by the Manchu Qing Dynasty. Hanfu is still in a difficult recovery period, and it is far from being fully known to the Chinese people. As a website that guides Hanfu, it cannot downplay the history of Hanfu’s demise. This is the need to respect objective history, reveal the actual status of Hanfu, and warn the nation about the future.

Hanfu is indeed a part of the Han national culture, but compared with other national cultures of the Han nationality such as music, chess, calligraphy and painting, Hanfu was extinct for more than 300 years. In the field of national culture, Hanfu still lacks its due status and glory. Under such circumstances, it is obviously too early to promote Hanfu only as a part of national culture.

If we must focus on the cultural significance of Hanfu, we might as well name it as "Hanfu Interest" instead of calling it the so-called "Hanfu Movement" or "Hanfu Revival" to attract attention. Source: Comprehensive 3 of this site, the structure of Tibetan costume culture 2006-4-18 China Clothing Style Network The increasingly perfect Tibetan costume culture has rich connotations and diverse levels. It has certain structural characteristics and many hierarchical and regional differences. There are also some specific clothing systems.

The most basic characteristics of Tibetan costumes are fat waist, long sleeves, large lapels, right lapels, long skirts, long boots, braided hair, gold, silver, pearls and jade jewelry, etc. Due to the long-term closed existence, the vertical difference in the development of Tibetan costumes is not large, and the changes in its tone are also small.

The shape and texture of Tibetan clothing largely depend on the ecological environment in which the Tibetan people live and the production and lifestyle formed on this basis.

The Tibetan people are a fusion of the indigenous residents of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and part of the ancient Qiang people. This is almost universal knowledge in the historians, whether it is the Fa Qiang among the ancient Qiang people or the Karuo, Qugong and other cultures. Creators, they all live on the roof of the world with high terrain, cold climate, and harsh natural conditions. They mainly focus on animal husbandry and agriculture. This determines that the basic characteristics of the clothing of the Tibetan ancestors are thick and thermal insulation, wide and warm fat waists, Long sleeve maxi dress.

In order to adapt to the mobility of animal husbandry production, where people live in close proximity to water and grass, people gradually formed large skirts and waistbands, leaving a protruding gap (resembling a bag) on ??the chest, so that butter and rice can be stored when going out. You can put cakes, tea leaves, rice bowls, and even small children. When it's hot or working, you can expose your right arm or both arms as needed and tie the sleeves around your waist to adjust your body temperature. You can put them on again when needed without having to take them all off. It's very convenient. , sleep at night, unfasten your belt, take off your sleeves, spread it half and cover it half, and it becomes a big warm sleeping bag. It can be said that it has multiple uses. Of course, these wearing methods and usage functions cannot be completed in one day, and there is no need to consider them in detail. . However, it is not difficult to imagine that this tone of Tibetan people has been around for a long time.

Someone has studied the bronze images and ancient murals before and after the Western Han Dynasty, and found that the ancient Qiang people are very similar to today's Tibetan costumes, both of which have fat waists, long sleeves, big lapels, right gussets, long skirts, and waistbands. , exposed arms, clothing made of fur, etc., the striking similarities show that Tibetan clothing has strong stability. This is the best explanation of how the ecological environment and lifestyle determine the shape of clothing. In terms of hierarchical differences, there is no fundamental difference in the structure of aristocratic Tibetan robes and folk Tibetan robes.

The difference is mainly in texture and pattern. The noble clothing has fine texture and exquisite patterns.

Generally, there is a python satin robe, which is based on yellow, red, blue, green, white, purple and other colors, with "Jianxi" auspicious patterns (dragon, water, fish, clouds and other patterns) on it. This robe is often worn by officials of fourth rank or above or during ceremonies on major festivals.

"Cunzha Bai Magajia" robe (lotus and phoenix brocade robe) is a satin robe with auspicious patterns of lotus and phoenix. It is similar to "Cunzha Baierbai."

The basic characteristics of Hanfu are: crossed collar and right lapel, wide robe and big sleeves (round collar, square collar, straight collar, etc. are effective supplements, and the wide robe and big sleeves are mainly formal dress). Hanfu has been "hanging down" since the Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of "clothes and ruling the world", we know that Hanfu was used as clothing before the Manchus entered the customs at the end of the Ming Dynasty. After "shaving their hair and changing clothes", although Hanfu disappeared from the people, it was still the clothing of children before the coming-of-age ceremony, and the deceased Hanfu is still used today in many aspects, including mourning clothes, Buddhist monk clothes and Taoist priest clothes. Hanfu has a complete evolutionary system regardless of dynasty. The main styles of Hanfu include clothes, straight skirt, curved skirt and skirt (sound statement) brown. , Zhuzi dark clothes, round collar robes, chest-length skirts, waist-length skirts, shirt skirts, jackets, trousers, and large cloaks

(Purely made by hand, I hope the poster will accept it).