Travel Notes: Seeing life as it is

Essay: The wind blows and everyone is black

I saw Brother Xinwen’s message at the back of my circle of friends: “Everyone is black. According to my understanding, everyone is generally black. ."I am happy.

Walking in the countryside and mountains of Puzhehei, what you see are dark faces. There are obvious differences between them and us tourists who have come from afar - we all wear sunproof clothes, sunproof veils, sunglasses, and hold sun umbrellas...

Because we are afraid of ultraviolet rays, Therefore, he could only wrap himself up airtightly, leaving only one pair of eyes, looking at the mountains not far away through dark brown lenses. But what about them? But he exposes his whole self under the sun. That kind of calmness and release is so admirable.

They are generally black people, so black, so black - generally looking black is their unique beauty.

The first dark-looking person I met in Puzhehei was an uncle.

It was 6:40 in the morning, and the sky was slightly bright. I walked out of Xianyun Courtyard and waited on the roadside for the carriage to go to Sanshengsiiishishili Peach Blossom. The carriage was still missing, so my uncle came over and asked me where I wanted to go, and if he could drive me there.

The uncle looks so dark, but his car looks so beautiful - the carriage at the back is surrounded by blue and white cloth, and wild flowers of various colors are stuck on the black iron pillars. I thought it was a fake flower, but when I looked closer, it turned out to be a real flower. There were clearly water drops on the petals.

I asked Uncle Hei, is this a real flower?

Uncle Hei smiled and said, they are real flowers. Let them drink enough water in the morning.

Uncle Hei’s car drove slowly. He said, if you want to take pictures, I will stop.

I want to take pictures of every scenery in front of me, but I even want to own the ten miles of peach grove alone in this early morning. Thinking about it, I am really a stupid person. I know clearly that the peach blossoms are fake, and the ten-mile peach forest is just a false number, but my obsession with it is still so deep.

Uncle Hei parked the car on the side of the road. He pointed to a stone step and said, walking from here is a ten-mile peach forest. Don't go back after you go down the mountain. Come down the slope in front. I'm here. Waiting for you there.

I kept walking along the signs, going up steps, downhill, and around corners. An octagonal pavilion, a few peach blossom trees, and a wetland with abundant water appeared in front of me. Deep pools and shoals are twisting and turning, and a peach forest is as graceful as a fairy in pink clothes in the middle of the water. Looking from a distance, there is a kind of loneliness that is isolated from the world.

Saw the morning wind passing through the peach forest. The texture of the leaves inscribes the past of Qingqiu. Little-known is the story of Three Lives, Three Worlds and Ten Miles of Peach Blossom - a peach forest and a peach blossom, connecting Bai Qian and Ye Hua's three-life love story.

After sitting on the plank road by the lake for a long time, this situation is really in line with what is sung in the song: the cool sky is shining all over me, and pieces of fragrance are flowing into the water...

Another person Uncle Puzhehei walked past me - he was carrying a bamboo basket and a hoe, and the rubber shoes on his feet were stained with mud. It seemed that he was a forest ranger in the Taolin. He pointed to a mountain forest behind him and talked loudly. I didn't understand what he said at all. At this time, Uncle Hei came up the mountain to pick me up and told me that peach trees had been planted in the mountain forest behind him. By next spring, there would be a real ten-mile peach forest here.

In the spring and bright seasons, the peach blossoms are in full bloom and the breeze comes. At that time, Puzhehei will be a different scene.

I’m afraid I’ll miss out.

Puzhehei is famous for its "Lotus" reputation. June, July and August every year are the most beautiful times in Puzhehei - hundreds of thousands of acres of wild lotus flowers are in bloom. When I came to Puzhehei in mid-to-late August, I could no longer see the lotuses all over the lake—the lotus feast was coming to an end.

I love lotus in this life.

I asked Uncle Hei, where can I see Hei?

Uncle Hei said, I will take you there.

I got into Uncle Hei's car again, and he took me to Puzhe Heihua Sea - big lotuses, and a large lotus lake came into my eyes. Ignoring the blazing sun, I put away my sun umbrella, took off my sunglasses, veil, and sun protection clothing, and started shooting wildly.

"When you turn over a lotus leaf, you turn over a Book of Songs." I think of Mr. Yu Guangzhong's words. I lingered by the lake, walking through the sea of ??flowers, rolling up my sleeves from time to time to touch the lotus leaves. The water droplets accumulated in the leaf petals were bright and transparent, and would roll down into my palms as soon as I touched them.

Countless lines of poems about lotuses are piled up in the dark sky. Those talented people full of poetry may write more beautiful poems if they jump into the lotus lake of Puzhehei!

In this life, I am afraid that I will not be able to turn over the pages of the Book of Songs. It is enough to be able to hold a drop of the universal black dew in the palm of my hand.

Mountains and water can be seen everywhere in Puzhehei. The mountains are reflected in the water, and the water revolves around the water. Looking up to see the mountains and looking down to see the water means that the general is black.

Puzhehei is a Yi language, and its meaning is certainly not "generally black" as Brother Xinwen said, but "a lake full of fish and shrimps".

It was in the morning when I stood on the Lover's Bridge and saw the black uncles rowing willow leaf-shaped boats and casting nets into the middle of the lake. The woman on the boat jumped into the water at some point and she fell out of the lotus leaves. Get out, pick fresh lotus pods full of lotus seeds, put them in the cabin, and then sit by the water and peel the lotus seeds.

She is also dark, plump, and has beautiful hair flying in the wind.

She smiled, showing her white teeth - it reminded me of Heimei Toothpaste. Let her shoot a commercial, right in the mountains and rivers of Puzhehei. It must be very beautiful and real.

I bought the lotus seeds peeled by Sister Hei, and the fragrance reached straight to my heart.

In the spring of the sixth year of Xining, Dongpo was demoted to Hangzhou and served as general magistrate. He went boating on the Fuchun River from Xincheng to Tonglu. When he passed Qilise, he saw the beautiful scenery on both sides of the river so intoxicating that he temporarily forgot about his unsatisfactory career. Sad, I couldn't help but become poetic, and wrote a poem "Xing Xiangzi·Crossing Qilise":

One leaf in the boat is light, two oars are shocked. The water and sky are clear, the shadows are clear and the waves are flat. The fish turns over the algae, and the heron lights the smoke. Crossing the sandy stream is fast, the frost stream is cold, and the moon stream is bright.

The layers are like paintings, and the music is like a screen. In those days, Xu Laoyan Ling. The king and his ministers have a dream, and their names are empty now and in ancient times. But the distant mountains are long, the clouds and mountains are chaotic, and the mountains are green at dawn.

"The distant mountains are long, the clouds and mountains are chaotic, and the mountains are green at dawn." The artistic conception of the poem is similar to that of Puzhe Heida. I couldn't write the "Xingxiangzi" written by Dongpo when I was too ordinary, but I was like Dongpo that year. "A boat is light and the oars are powerful." When I was boating on the Lotus Lake, the wind was full of black. Dispelling the worries in my heart, what I saw was the same thing: "The water and sky are clear, the shadows are clear and the waves are flat. Fish turn over the algae, and herons light up the smoke."

The willow leaf boat carried me to the center of the lake, and the water The light is like a mirror, reflecting the long past.

I asked Dongpo: If you were still alive, could you travel thousands of miles to come here like me, indulge yourself in the mountains and rivers, and compose poems? Could it be possible that I would be as greedy for the peaceful time of universal darkness and not want to leave?

The mountains and rivers are silent, the east slope is silent, and the wind from all directions rushes towards me...

Puzhehei is a big village, an extremely soft water town on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, like silk. Soft, like the slowness in Mr. Mu Xin's poems - the mountains and rivers are on one side, the bougainvillea on the roadside is blooming brightly, and on the other side are the working black people, herding cattle, or walking slowly with their carriages, waving their whips, Humming a tune, feeling free.

I want to stay, as black as them, washing clothes by the water, grazing at the foot of the mountains, driving cattle and horses to sing - time goes by like this, and so do I.

Encountering a piece of reed is another surprise given to me by Puzhehei.

Countless reeds are cheering around me. They are my long-lost old friends. We felt like old friends at first sight many years ago. I went down the mountain before it got dark and passed by a reed swamp. A reed leaf caught my feet. I couldn't move. I could only stand there, listening to the wind and looking at the reeds, motionless.

Reeds thrive in water. There are clear waters under Qinglong Mountain, and the mountains are high and shady, so the reeds grow in large tracts. I love reeds. The reeds are so faint. When the wind blows, they become a piece of music. When you look deeply, they become a poem.

More than two hours ago, I climbed to the top of Qinglong Mountain alone, and finally got my wish - embracing the scenery on the top of the mountain alone, including the lingering sunset and the motionless rocks like sculptures. Qinglong Mountain is like a mature young man, with a calm demeanor and a determined mind. The amber clouds roll freely among the valleys and mountains. It spoke to the rocks and grass in a language we did not understand.

At the top of Qinglong Mountain, I heard the murmurs between souls, but I couldn’t hear them clearly. Find a flat rock and sit down, hoping to be favored by the sunset, to be surrounded by the glow, and to watch quietly how the mountains sink little by little into the depths of the light - that gorgeous light, changing its posture every minute.

It was 7:45, the sun began to set, the night sky rose suddenly, and the sound of insects came from the grass. A bird that flew from nowhere came to rest on the rock next to me. It flew alone in the sky for a long time. When it got tired, it wanted to hang down its wings and find a quiet place where no one would disturb it. A few days of cleaning and repairing.

Like me, it is a passer-by. It wants to have a good relationship with the dark landscape for the rest of its life. From now on, it can waste its time like this, so that we can never get tired of each other, and can not interfere with each other.

When the day is exhausted, the darkness becomes more and more unbridled at this moment, as if a pair of wings grow out of thin air and fly in the depths of time. I am willing to hold the wings of night and fall together to the bottom of the Lotus Lake. In the next life, I will be a lotus at the bottom of the Black Lake, waiting for midsummer to break out of the ground and stand in the water.

I have wanted to go to Puzhehei, and I have been yearning for it since the first glimpse of it in National Geographic magazine.

From my city to Puzhehei, it seems like a very long journey.

Home - Pudong Airport - Kunming Airport - Kunming Railway Station - Puzhehei High-speed Railway - Puzhehei Village, nearly fourteen hours of bumpy pain, after driving through Puzhehei When walking on the Lotus Avenue, there was a moment of relief as if the clouds were turning and the sun appeared, and all the fatigue disappeared at this moment.

Looking out from the car window, I saw the ever-changing clouds in the sky at dusk - a bit cold, a bit weird, pouring down from the mountains, like clouds and waterfalls, and like a man in black. The heroine wields a long sword, her beauty is breathtaking but irresistible.

What you see along the way are the shapes of clouds and mountains, like a dream, half awake and half dreaming.

On the second morning in Puzhehei, I was awakened by a few chickens crowing and birds singing outside the window. After yesterday's long journey, I often suffered from insomnia, so I slept so deeply on the big bed of Xianyunyuan Inn.

When I woke up, the world had changed - my room had a large floor-to-ceiling glass, and outside the window was a vast expanse of lush grass, boundless green.

There are a few paths paved with stone slabs, a few blooming wild flowers, the sound of gurgling water emitting a pleasant melody, the leaves are covered with morning dew, and the air is filled with the fragrance of plants and earth.

Not far away, horses were strolling, and the Qinglong Mountains were rolling and looming.

Three days of life like a wandering cloud and wild crane were spent in Puzheheixianyunyuan. The hostess of Xianyunyuan is gentle and elegant, and we felt like old friends at first sight. I tasted the rice noodles she made by herself. I ate them for three days and actually ate them with gusto.

The room I booked did not include breakfast, but she brought it to me for free. I was writing in the yard in the afternoon, and she brought me a plate of cut fruits. I was deeply moved, but I couldn't express it in words.

For my last dinner in Puzhehei, I ordered a Puzhehei shrimp and a lotus leaf omelette at a restaurant not far from Xianyunyuan. The ingredients were fresh. Delicious.

On the morning of my departure, the hostess of Xianyunyuan called a car for me. I know that it is always extremely difficult to say goodbye - say goodbye to a slow time, say goodbye to the black landscape, say goodbye to Xianyunyuan, and say goodbye to her.

When we were saying goodbye, she sent me to the car, we hugged, and the car drove me away. When I looked back, I saw her still standing at the door of the courtyard where I walked in that night, waving...