Xinjiang Tourism Series Entering Lop Nur (Ⅲ) Original Luobu Village

From the visitor center to the parking lot of Rob Village, cheerful songs are playing. At that time, they were deep and heavy, and sometimes high-pitched male voices were interspersed with female voices as melodious as birds. The song sounds broad and melodious, very Uygur songs.

The road surface is original and flat. In addition to the loess and the hard ground on the road, we can see the edge of the protruding desert more and more clearly. After a while, the car stopped in front of a not-so-dense Populus euphratica forest, and the driver told everyone that they could get off and visit.

"Populus euphratica was born without dying for a thousand years, died without falling for a thousand years, but did not rot for a thousand years." Populus euphratica is the only tree species growing in the desert, and it is a very precious tree species. It has always been comparable to Ginkgo biloba and is known as the "living fossil of plants". I touch their thick and hard trees with my tentacles. The dazzling sunlight spreads heat to the less lush leaves. Not far from Populus euphratica, there is a tall reed, where there are boats used by Rob people to fish.

I saw a simple hut made of Hu Yangmu (similar to wood), reeds and wild hemp. The roof is flat, and there is a herringbone reed roof to facilitate the evacuation of rainwater. The big house has a simple earthen stove, a heatable kang and simple daily necessities, while the small house is just a simple residence of four or five square meters. Higher-rise houses are built on thick wooden stakes, much like the dry column buildings in Hemudu culture period in our history books. It can be seen that the ecology here once had fertile land, lush aquatic plants and humid air.

It is said that there are only the last 20 families left in Luobu village. They never grow grain or graze livestock, but only fish on boats for food. They collect wild hemp, wear hash bird skins, and barter otter skins and hash bird feathers in Korla without using money.

Lop Nur is the lowest point in Tarim Basin with a history of 2 million years. The water it originally gathered came from the rivers of Tianshan Mountain, Kunlun Mountain and Altun Mountain. The local ethnic minorities call it Luobnuoer, and the Uyghur word "Luobu" means land of water. "Naoer" is Mongolian, which means lake.

Lop Nur was once the second largest inland lake in China and the "desert pearl" of the ancient Silk Road, with an area of1.2000 square kilometers, even at the beginning of last century, it was 500 square kilometers. The water source of Lop Nur is supplied by Tarim River, Peacock River, Qierqin River and Milan River, and the melting water of Qilian Mountain glacier is supplied by Shule River. From 1950, the water area shrank rapidly and dried up completely to 1972.

According to real and reliable data, Lop Nur began to dry up from the "four blindness". Since 1950, four divisions of production and construction corps have been established around Tarim basin. To feed the population, it is necessary to reclaim 1 10,000 mu of farmland and forest land, open mines and set up factories. The surge in water consumption has led people to desperately ask for water from Tarim River and Peacock River. "Water for cultivated land, building reservoirs, digging dikes to divert water and pumping water by pumping stations" eventually led to excessive water use in the upper reaches, water cut off in the lower reaches, the Tarim River completely dried up, and Lop Nur became a passive lake. I suddenly remembered the song "Tarim River" sung by Xinjiang Uygur singer Klimu. The Tarim River praised in words is the river of my hometown and the mother river, which makes me even more sad.

After the water was cut off, the ecological environment around Lop Nur changed dramatically, all herbs died, Populus euphratica, the defender of sand control, died in pieces, and desertification advanced to the lake at a rate of 3 to 5 meters per year. In the end, Lop Nur merged with the vast Taklimakan desert. And we are in the land where Taklimakan Desert meets Lop Nur.

This place is also a village where people are trying to retreat. I saw Populus euphratica and Shui Ze intermittently. Even if I climb to the sand mountain tens of meters high, it is difficult to see the river and more green. Looking from the height to the center of Lop Nur, you can see thick and continuous sand dunes.

I don't know, if every step of the development of human civilization is at the expense of the original features of nature, then in the near future, I don't know that there will be too many teenagers, and I may not even see the green of Rob Village now. In fact, not only Lop Nur, but nearly two-thirds of the lakes in Xinjiang have dried up and are shrinking sharply in recent decades.

At present, the village under my feet is a Lop Nur folk garden, which was verified by archaeologists and presented on the basis of the true restoration of architects. It was built for the convenience of tourists to concentrate on the development history of the Luobu people.

It turns out that the real Luobu people live in an area of 72 square kilometers in Fiona Fang, and their families are far apart (which is a bit like nomadic Kazakhs in Xinjiang). Their living areas cover Taklimakan desert, wandering lakes and the longest inland Tarim River, as well as the original Populus euphratica forest and the green corridor Qiongkule grassland pasture. This is one of the largest villages in western China. This is the paradise of Luobu people and the intersection of the ancient Silk Road.

When I walked into the Oldek Memorial Hall in the village, my brain was always trying to recover from a certain stage at the beginning of last century. I don't know how the Swedish explorer Sven Hedin discovered Oldek, a Lop Nur man. His courage and familiarity with Lop Nur terrain became the most effective guide for Sven Hedin's scientific investigation, and Loulan Ancient City and Xiaohe Cemetery became famous all over the world.

Then, if the Luobu people belonged to a tribe in the ancient city of Loulan 2000 years ago, the village buildings left here must also condense the wisdom of our ancestors. Loulan ancient city is located in the lower reaches of Peacock River, when the water system was developed. It used to be a water town, with lush green forests, lush pastures and a wide variety of exotic flowers and herbs. They hunt, fish and graze cattle and sheep ... they have the characteristics of primitive matriarchal social clans.

There are many handsome men and beautiful women in Loulan ancient city, especially Loulan beauty. They have both the charming eyes of westerners and the moist skin of Jiangnan women. They can sing and dance, take care of their husbands, adopt children, live in houses built of trees and reeds, and live a simple and rich life.

With the changes of environment and climate, the ancient city of Loulan experienced the Neolithic Age and Bronze Age, and the vast lakes of Lop Nur nurtured generations of Loulan people. When the cooling period comes, the water and soil environment becomes worse, rivers decrease, lakes shrink and deserts expand. In the 4th century, that is, from the Han Dynasty to the Northern Wei Dynasty in the Central Plains, drought came, and the ancient city of Loulan, which is located in the arid inland, and the surrounding cities such as Niya, Karaton, Milan, Nirang, Khan and Wantong all disappeared due to desertification.

Look at the ancient city of 65,438+10,000 square meters built by Loulan people in Lop Nur, and pay attention to the dense "male root stumps" on the cemetery of No.5 River. This is a warning of the survival crisis of Loulan people. They use reproductive worship to pray for future generations to continue to reproduce. With the serious desertification, Loulan people also realize that only trees and water are the most important living resources.

I looked at it carefully. The water of Tarim River on the edge of Luobu village winds into a small piece of water, which is like the last place where the river stops flowing. The river is crystal clear, and reeds stand upright in the clear water. Even gently swaying in the wind seems to have a charming gesture. Hu Yangshu is unevenly distributed in twos and threes, so it is easy to judge that they are pure wild. Extending our vision to the river, we can find some sparse trees, which are not lush along the river, which is lucky. After all, they can still live on water.

I happily ran to the water's edge, put my hand into the water, and found that the water was very shallow and warm, which was quite suitable for swimming. This water brings obvious moisture and coolness to the summer heat on the edge of the desert. On the other side of the blue waves, there is a shade shed of several hundred square meters. The tour guide shouted for the new member of the desert camel team. The riders rode carefully on the camel's back lying on the ground. After a while, the camels stood up one after another, and the jingling camel bells pierced the eardrum and became more and more pleasant. The lying camel stood up slowly under the command of the camel guide, listening to the shouts of the riders and the expressions of me and other spectators.

Another camel team will enter the desert hinterland. Looking at those tourists wearing colorful sun protection suits, sunglasses and gloves and scarves, they are all well protected. They were scorched by the dazzling sunshine under the white sky, but their condescending and cocky appearance was enviable. I feel as if they have gained a wonderful feeling. They are proudly waving goodbye to us.

Camels, no matter how much the rider shows off, are still in no hurry. They took a big step with a slow rotation. The sound of camels is crisp, and the camel team in the distance crawls away like a colorful insect and disappears. After a while, the sweet voice disappeared completely, the colorful bugs disappeared like a hole, and the camel team seemed to be swallowed up.

I was just staring blankly behind the camel team. That bright color is the most beautiful scenery in this desert, which reminds me of the beauty of the ancient city of Loulan. It is said that after many wars, as long as the war fails, the most beautiful woman in the ancient city will be dedicated to the winning little king as his wife. Loulan beauty has become the best business card and the best ambassador in the ancient city. Gradually, I found that the wives of the little kings in the western regions were all from Loulan ancient city. This may be because all the beautiful women in Tomb Raider have the same geographical and facial features, and I don't know whether this statement originated from history, but in that ancient time when the territory was contested, this legend still made future generations sound very credible.

On this day, I mainly visited the Luobu people's folk culture area and experienced the Tahe suspension bridge, the reception wooden house, the Luobu people's tea garden, the leisure corridor, the Luobu people's residence and the Sun Tomb.

Star rock paintings, relics of the wheel of destiny, Silk Road National Park. We also visited the "Goddess Lake" tourist area, took a walk in the desert tourist adventure area, and then went sand skiing happily.

Finally, if I had been to see the sand sculpture art park and wildlife park, I would not have walked on the ridge of the sand dunes with my son to discuss the distant ancient city of Loulan and the mysterious Lop Nur; I wouldn't think of the suggestion that my son go to the teacher for summer homework after school starts. We won't sit in the sand mountain and discuss why the sand in the desert can't be used for Gai Lou, but people have to take sand from the water!

We can resist heat and dryness. It's just a pity that it would be better if a boat could accompany me to the distant ancient city of Loulan and Lop Nur.

At dusk, we sat in the parking lot again. I asked the driver, what is this good song? The driver told me that there was a Chinese version in the back. So, I heard the following lyrics in the song "Dear Girl":