Visit the ancient city of Fenghuang

When you fall in love with it-Travel Notes of Phoenix Eleven On September 26th, you finally left troubled Beijing and embarked on a trip to Phoenix, perhaps because of high expectations, so you were a little nervous. K267 is really too slow, but the train from Beijing to Phoenix is really the best choice. We got off at Jishou at 3 pm the next day, and just got out of the train station, we went to buy a return ticket of 65438+10.4, but there was nothing, so we got on the train from the train station and went to La 'er Mountain (there is one in the train station square, although the driving time is not guaranteed, it is still good to wait for 20 minutes to drive), and marched all the way to Phoenix. The road was being built here in Jishou, and it took a long time to break the road. I was really afraid that I couldn't get there before dark, but the road to Phoenix was good, and I arrived a little after 5 o'clock at last, when it was still bright. The four of us got off at the Phoenix Bridge, which made us feel that the Phoenix is very small, at least the beautiful place is very small, but in the next few days, everything here quietly changed our views. Because we contacted several inns in advance, such as Tuojiang Shijia and Camus Inn, and finally decided on Jiangbei Inn (everyone 20 yuan every night), we called Jiangbei after getting off the bus, and the boss ran to the bridge to meet us. The boss, surnamed Huang, is a painting enthusiast and enthusiastically helps us with our bags. The first time I jumped over the famous rock jumping, I found that the river was clear and there were many aquatic plants in it, which swayed gently and quietly with the waves, giving me an impulse to jump into the river. The jumping rock has been washed away by years, and the wooden boards and stone steps seem to be silently confirming the ancient and calm of this place. There are many women washing clothes in the north gate. The crackling of clothes, the melodious sound of running water and the loud singing in the distance make me feel that beauty can be so life-oriented. This scene of working life in the ancient city is opposite to bars and inns, and couples who come to travel sit by the river, adding a bit of romance. Jiangbei Inn is near Tiaoyan, about 200 meters away from Hongqiao. The most attractive thing about this inn is a super invincible balcony (on its fourth floor) overlooking most of the ancient city of Fenghuang. This balcony has become a paradise for the four of us every night.

Putting down our backpacks, we can't wait to start our trip to the ancient city. As the Golden Week has not yet arrived, there are not many tourists in the ancient city. A beautiful Miao girl carrying a small basket recommended us to wear Miao costumes to take pictures, which made the fellow boys sigh for a long time. Along the shore of Jiangbei, we walked leisurely to Hongqiao. Melodious folk songs are floating in the wind, which makes us suddenly feel that we are in the minority areas of the border town. There is no noise of cars in the city, but more cock crowing and dog barking, and there is no tense pace of life, more relaxed and comfortable.

Snacks on both sides of Hongqiao have already started, but they dare not compliment and are still unsanitary. There are also some bean jelly recommended by donkey friends. It's really ok, sour and sweet, but halfway through, I found someone collecting disposable tableware that everyone had finished. It's obviously repeated use, which makes me sick. Remind everyone to pay attention to hygiene!

When you get off at Hongqiao, turn right, and you will reach the upstairs and the Sunspot Hotel. You have heard of these two restaurants for a long time. Anyway, I can try it, so I went upstairs and asked for blood duck, fried beef Bacillus and so on. * * * spent 100 yuan, which is the most expensive meal on this trip. It tastes so-so.

I visited the ancient city that night and looked at the silver ornaments and ginger candy. You can try more ginger candy. Does everyone have different hobbies? I don't know which one will be delicious. But the packaging of the two companies is really good. If you want to keep it for a long time, you should buy a packaged one.

Sitting on the balcony at night, eating kiwi fruit bought on the road (preferably 80 cents a catty), fireflies flying around, the river slowly leaving, the night sky is starry, and the quiet life is always touching.

The next morning we went to the world's largest stone bridge and Sanjiang. If you are not engaged in bridge construction, if you are not interested in barren hills, I suggest you don't have to go to the first Dashiqiao, because it is just a bridge. It's a 40-minute walk from Sanjiang. There's nothing to see. With a trace of disappointment, we came to Sanjiang to express our love again. Don't believe that the Expo is boring. People who sell clothes, vermicelli, New Year pictures and tobacco leaves. They really felt that they had failed themselves, so we bought some tobacco leaves, which were very cheap. One yuan is enough, and there is a big bag. It is said that the taste is ok, all natural. Then, we saw an interesting thing: tooth extraction. I don't know if you've heard the cross talk of tooth extraction. It's a classic one. Sanjiang market staged a realistic version of tooth extraction. I saw a Miao woman holding a vise and another old lady with her mouth open. It's like pulling a nail The pliers pulled hard, but they didn't come out once and didn't come down twice, which made us tremble with fear. The third hard tooth extraction, there is something bloody on the pliers. We never dare to look at it again. Then everyone thought that this tooth extraction was amazing and really a great gain. We walked up the street along the market, about 15 minutes away, and we arrived at Miao Village in Maanshan, next to a nursing home. There are all big names written there, which are easy to find. Everyone must go. This is a very nice place. Although the market is crowded, when you walk to the door of Miao Village in Maanshan and turn a corner, you will be suddenly enlightened, and prosperity and tranquility will switch instantly. An ancient stone stockade sits quietly in front of you, with a hill behind it. Blue-gray and green are always in harmony. There are several acres of land in front of the stockade, and no one is farming. Only a few ducks are resting there. The ancient trees on the roadside bring us a little coolness and even a little solemnity. We walked quietly to the stockade. This is a very typical Miao village. Most of the buildings in the village still retain their original features. They are all made of hard stones, which are arranged like a book standing on a shelf. We have to admire its durability. The gate of the stockade is very interesting, just like a bunker with a lookout hole on it. The blue-gray stone can create such a distinctive stockade gate, which has experienced ups and downs, weddings and funerals, and perhaps resisted foreign attacks. Only the old tree surrounded by two people at the door can accompany it and witness all this.

/kloc-Return to Phoenix around 0: 00 and take a taxi (2 yuan) to the famous Ambassador Hotel for dinner. Generally speaking, the price is not very cheap. I remember eating a black-bone chicken hot pot, 45 yuan, which was not as delicious as expected.

In the afternoon, we went to Huangsi Bridge and the South Great Wall by bus. I think Huangsi Bridge is OK and interesting. I spent 5 yuan to find a little girl to show us around, to see the county government and the military camp, and to photograph the gate of Wulong Mountain Scenic Resort. This is much more interesting than spending money to walk around the castle. As for the South Great Wall, we just looked at it below.

That night, we bought some side dishes and beer in Heizi and went back to the super invincible balcony. We like it very much. Really fast!

Early in the morning of the third day, we chose to take a public boat to visit Tuojiang River. When the morning sunshine dispelled the layers of mist on the Tuojiang River, the ancient city was like an old man who had just woken up. Beautiful Miao folk songs float to you with the breeze. Sitting on the boat, you can really feel the tenderness of the Tuojiang River, the gates of the ancient city, the diaojiao building full of ethnic characteristics along the river, and the ducks and cockfights foraging along the river. Everything you see, hear and breathe is wonderful and natural. You have passed through a unique building and a ship. Shen Congwen's graveyard, like his articles, is simple, peaceful and simple, but it makes you memorable. There is no tombstone, only a big stone, in front of which "you can understand me as I think;" According to my thinking, I can know people ",but I am uncompromising and kind and accommodating." The stars are full of words and the heart is pure. "Only in this way can we have such a state of mind.

After returning from the cemetery, we chartered a car to Duluozhai (70 yuan, about 5 hours' drive), passing through many Tujia villages, and it took about an hour's drive to get to this stockade hidden in the depths of the mountains. In the kiwifruit harvest season, the kiwifruit in Zhaizikou has piled up into hills, and the villagers are busy packing. This village has a very long history. There are many ancient trees in the village. The blue-gray buildings in the village and the black clothes of Tujia people are called the eternal pure green in Xiangxi, which makes you feel that everything is so clean and transparent. After many years, perhaps the memory is no longer so clear, but the combination of stone houses and mountains will always remain in your heart. There is a primary school in the stockade. There is only one primary school here. If you want to go to middle school, you have to walk a long way. The children in the school are as happy as our children. Maybe there is more laughter here. In fact, happiness is so easy, but how many people can give up the impetuous prosperity and brilliant money in the city? Me too.

Walking through the stockade to the mountain behind, I only saw two crops, one is kiwifruit and the other is tobacco. At noon, there was no one in the field, and the smoke in the village curled up. We climbed to the top of the mountain hungry. The weather is very hot. It took about an hour to climb to the top of the mountain. From a distance, we saw a bay of water in the canyon, and we turned many times between the mountains until we reached the back of the distant mountain. When we climbed down the mountain, we were already hungry. I didn't expect a small thatched cottage in the canyon, and the smell of cooking smoke made us very excited. So we had a Tujia farmhouse meal here, and stewed pumpkin was the best. In a quiet place, people tend to return to innocence. Several adults actually played with water. The clear pond seems to be a mirror. The small stone jumped and jumped until it jumped across the river, at least a dozen times. God, I can apply for Guinness World Records. After eating and drinking enough, we were not so tired, so we walked all the way along the stream to the red lantern that showed the way. The road is easy and there are few people, which is very interesting. It is said that this mountain road is an ancient road with a long history. A long time ago, people used this road for trade fairs, so there are ancient trees on both sides of the road, and there are stone slabs and wells on the road, which also has a sense of historical vicissitudes. Along the way, I listened to the simple villagers in the stockade give us peace and harmony here. It is said that the roads here are not closed at night! It took about an hour to get to Zhaizi, and we went to Zhaizi to have a big meal of native chicken. It's a tiring day for everyone. When we returned to Phoenix, it was already past 4 pm. As we are going to Zhangjiajie early tomorrow morning, everyone is shopping crazily in the ancient city. (Silver bracelets are basically 3 yuan a gram. Later, when we came back, we met a local girl on the train. She said that if local people buy it, it will cost 2 yuan per gram. ) In the evening, we had a sumptuous meal at Sunspot. There happened to be a big fish head in the shop, so we ordered a fish head hot pot with bacon and steaming, which was nostalgic. Sunspot's food was the best.

The next morning, it was raining in Mao Mao, and the ancient city presented us with a picture of half a face hidden in front of us behind the appearance of her guitar. Foggy, drizzling, like pearls pouring on a plate of jade, as if at this moment, I have to admit its beauty and my reluctance. In fact, sometimes it is such a feeling, as the saying goes: when you fall in love with a place, it may be because of that exclusive moment. When you fall in love with someone, it may be because of certain moments and moods.

In fact, I really can't say anything particularly good about the ancient city. I think the two gates of the ancient city are more interesting. One is the north gate of the pier, and the other is a gate in the city. They give people a sense of vicissitudes and ancient rhyme, and some are street scenes of the road from Shen Congwen's tomb to Hongqiao. The buildings on both sides are integrated, which makes you feel integrated into history.

It takes about 2 hours from Fenghuang to Jishou. At 0/0 on September 30th, we arrived at Jishou Railway Station. There are many buses from Jishou to Zhangjiajie, so don't worry about not getting tickets. We took the bus at 1 1. Although it is a standing ticket, there are many empty seats on the bus, but you must be careful when getting on the bus. There are many thieves. The girl who got on the bus with us lost her mobile phone and wallet in the chaos.

The scenery in Zhangjiajie is beautiful, but we are shrouded in fog. God said to us, "Come again". We basically didn't see the scenery of Tian Zi, so we had to go again.

Back in Beijing, facing the heavy pressure of life, I suddenly found myself in a hurry in Phoenix under the bright sunshine in March, running all the scenic spots non-stop. Why can't I get rid of the hustle and bustle brought by the city in such a calm place, and even become a habit? This is my sorrow, and it may also be the sorrow of many people. I don't know how many years later, I can go to Phoenix and Duluozhai again, and I don't know if I can feel the calmness and lightness of Phoenix and the purity and harmony of Duluozhai again.

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Fenghuang ancient city haha, you really know where to choose ~

Objectively speaking, my relationship with my boyfriend was born in Phoenix, so Phoenix is not only a tourist attraction for both of us, but also a witness of our love. So I may have something subjective that will affect you. So I'm just here to introduce it to you from my point of view, hoping you can learn from it.

If this is your first visit to Phoenix, I want to congratulate you. Because you chose a very pleasant place at once. Spend a week in Phoenix with my boyfriend every year, and the approximate cost includes the round-trip air ticket from Phoenix to Changsha, which is about 1000.

Since you want to know about Phoenix, I'll take some time to tell you in detail how to arrange delicious accommodation in Phoenix! Of course, these are my own supervisory experiences, and you can learn from them.

1. If this is your first visit, as expected, several middle-aged women will ask you if you have a place to live. They are usually responsible for attracting guests, but you don't have to be too wary of them. They are still very simple. You can follow them to see the house until you are satisfied with the environment and the price. The diaojiao building by the river is generally 40-60 yuan, while other houses are about 20-30 yuan for one night, and the environmental sanitation is not bad.

I often live in Wu Tong Bus Terminal next to Yangjia Ancestral Temple (there are photos of rooms in my Baidu space, you can have a look). The environment on the third floor is good, and all of them are beautifully decorated with wooden structures. I'll call you at 0743-322 6 187, 20 yuan/person (5, 1 1 month, the peak season is expensive and there are many people, so it's best to go in the off-season).

2. For diet, Phoenix is mainly sour. Here is a saying: "If you don't eat sour for three days, you will stumble when you walk." If you can, you can often eat some of his specialties: pickled fish, blood duck and social food. The first two are mainly hot pot, which tastes good, probably around 35 yuan. Social meals can be eaten at food stalls, 2 yuan each.

3. Special snacks:

Ginger candy, you can see the making process of ginger candy in the street, which is very interesting. Yang's ginger candy is authentic and inexpensive, which can be said to be 8- 10 yuan per catty.

Twist candy, which has only been available in recent years, is mainly made of rice flour. It is called because it is twisted in the middle. It tastes special, but it costs a lot. You can reduce the price to 8- 10 yuan.

Bean jelly, cold and sweet, I like it very much, about 1 yuan.

Sour radish, in fact, the sour radish in the whole Xiangxi area is not bad, one or two dollars.

Dried kiwifruit, kiwifruit is a local specialty. Usually harvested in autumn. Local people buy and sell a few cents a catty, and it costs about two yuan to sell to guests. The derivative products developed in kiwifruit dry goods market in recent years taste good, and the price is more than ten yuan a catty.

There are several main scenic spots in this city, mainly the former residences of celebrities and ancestral temples. If you want to visit them, you must buy a pass, because the 50-year income right of these scenic spots has been sold to Huanglongdong Co., Ltd. by Fenghuang county government for 833 million yuan, and the pass price is around 80 yuan. Although I have been there for many years, I have never been to any of these scenic spots. Hehe, I'm mainly interested in the combination of human landscape and natural landscape there, but it's up to you whether to see it or not.

5. You can visit Shen Congwen's cemetery. There is a grave keeper who has been guarding the old man's grave there for more than eight years. He knows Mr. Shen's life and family affairs like the back of his hand. If you can take good care of the translator, chatting with him can still enhance your understanding of Mr. Shen Congwen.

You can row a boat from Shen Congwen's cemetery, and the price is not expensive. You can go all the way to Peach Blossom Island and then return. The time is about 40 minutes and the price is about 10 yuan/person. If there are many people, you can bargain again.

Taohua Island is a small island. I've been there several times, but I haven't seen peach blossoms. I was contracted by a boss in Zhejiang for redevelopment two years ago. I haven't seen it now. Maybe there are too many places to spend money.

6. If you are an early riser, I suggest you save some money and go rock jumping in Phoenix. Standing on the jumping rock, watching the clear Tuojiang River water slowly flow into the distance, the diaojiao building in the distance is sometimes clear and sometimes blurred under the fog of Nanhua Mountain, giving people a feeling of being in a fairyland. Cuckoo will sing the most beautiful morning song for you ... of course, everyone's mood is different, you can feel it yourself.

7. In the evening, you can take part in a bonfire party, where there are performances in the mountains and the sea of fire, Miao customs, songs and dances are all available, the fare is 35/ person, and you can bargain.

8. If you are selling food from a stall in Phoenix, you should pay attention. The aunts there charge a high price. A pair of earrings costs more than 10. Generally, giving them 2-4 yuan is almost enough, but it needs to be divided into batches. It won't be sold to you cheaply in a crowded place, but in a street with few people.

9. Silver ornaments: a must for tourists coming to Phoenix. At present, the silver jewelry bought by the silver jewelry store in Phoenix is very expensive, about 8 yuan/gram, just like those in other cities. There are also silver ornaments on the booth, of course, the goods and prices are different! Some of the silver ornaments there are made of iron, some of them are made of alloy, and they may all contain a little silver.

I'll teach you a few ways to identify silver ornaments: (I learned it from local people, not necessarily scientific)

First, jewelry with a lot of silver will not make a loud noise or react when it falls to the ground. This point needs to be compared to distinguish.

Second, silver ornaments are very soft and malleable. You can feel it when you bend your hand down.

Third, jewelry containing silver will draw gray marks on the lime wall.

There is a Mengdong River drifting near Fenghuang, and the price is more than 100, which is said to be quite good. When you get there, the boss of your place can contact you and bargain with her, even including the fare and tickets.

I just spent a few days in Phoenix with my family the other day. Now Phoenix is repairing the sewer pipe. If you look at the Tuojiang River, the scenery may have a little influence. But sewers can make the water in Tuojiang River clearer and better.

Having said that, I have only one purpose, that is, I hope you can like Phoenix as much as I do and have a perfect trip!

In my Baidu space, there are a lot of phoenix scenery that I took myself. You can have a look. Have a nice trip!

Other travel notes can also be viewed on this website. I am a loyal member of them.

Have a look, it's really good!

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