Please give me the original text of "Mount Tai is Really Big" (Wang Zengqi), the full text!

Prose collection of Wang Zengqi's works

Taishan Fragments

Preface

I returned from Taishan,

I brought back a piece of it cloud.

After opening the box, they suddenly looked at each other,

turning into rain and rain.

Mount Tai is very big

Tai means Tai, and the original character of Tai is big. Duan Yucai thought that Tai was a later popular character, and the dot below Tai was added by later generations. If you add a dot below the big characters in bronze inscriptions and oracle bone inscriptions, it won't look the same. It's easy for people to misunderstand and think it means a certain organ on the human body.

So it is very difficult to describe Mount Tai. It's so big that it's not scratchy to write. In the past three thousand years, I think the best poem about Mount Tai is the "Song of Lu" in the Book of Songs: "Mount Tai is a rock, which was written by Lu Bang." What exactly "rock" feels like is difficult to grasp, but climbing When you go up Mount Tai, you can feel how energetic Mount Tai is. Zhan Jizhan. It is said that in the State of Lu, no matter where you are, you can see Mount Tai when you raise your head. This is realism, but it expresses a grand realm. Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty climbed Mount Tai to enshrine Zen. He simply didn’t know what to say about Mount Tai, so he could only sigh in a series of words: “It’s so high! It’s so great! It’s great! It’s special! It’s strong! It’s awesome! It’s confusing!” He didn’t say a single word at all. So. This is also a way. Before people reach a super-experienced scene, they often can't find the right words, so they have no choice but to bark like a dog. Du Fu's poem "Looking at the Mountains" is naturally a swan song. "How is Dai Zongfu? Qilu is still young." This sentence sums up Mount Tai. Du Fu was really a great realist who was deeply influenced by Confucianism. This poem shows his incomparable loyalty to the mountains and rivers of his motherland. In comparison, Li Bai's "When the sky gate roars loudly, and the breeze comes from thousands of miles away", it is a bit bloody. Li Bai wrote many good poems, which were very powerful, but sometimes he lacked confidence, so he had to spill blood and pretend to be crazy. Several of his poems about Mount Tai give people a sense of lack of confidence. Du Fu's poems were certainly influenced by "Song of Lu". "Qi Lu is still young" should come from "Lu Bangzhan". Zhang Dai is right when he said, "Taishan has a strong vitality and will never show itself to others as small and exquisite." Probably, when writing about Mount Tai, one can only write from a macro perspective. Li Daoyuan wrote about the Three Gorges. Liu Zongyuan's "Eight Notes of Yongzhou" is deeply crafted, but it is not suitable to use his method to write about Mount Tai.

Writing about scenery is related to personal temperament. When Xu Zhimo wrote about the sunrise on Mount Tai, he used so many gorgeous and vivid colors that it was really "too thick to be melted away". But I have some doubts. Is this about the sunrise on Mount Tai or about Xu Zhimo? I don’t think Zhou Zuoren would write like this. Zhou Zuoren probably didn't write about sunrise at all.

I cannot write about Mount Tai, because Mount Tai is too big and I cannot identify with Mount Tai. I'm always a little out of touch with everything great. I climbed Mount Taishan twice in ten years, which is totally irrelevant. Mount Tai can neither enter inside me nor can I become Mount Tai on the outside. The mountain comes from the mountain, and I am myself. I cannot achieve the identity of things and myself. The mountain is me, and I am the mountain. Mount Tai is the mountain of the strong - I think this term is very appropriate. I am not a strong person, neither in mountain climbing nor in life. I grew up by the water, an ordinary and peaceful person. I am over seventy years old, and I have no choice but to look up to the mountains. I am a person who is content with bamboo fences, huts, small bridges and flowing water. It is almost impossible to write about tall and majestic mountains with the same pen that is used to write about small bridges and flowing water. It is important for people to be self-aware and not to be like "chicken eating mung beans - Jiannu".

Similarly, I can only treat all great people as ordinary people. Taishan's fame is partly due to Feng Chan. The two most prominent figures in the history of Feng Chan are Emperor Qin and Han Wu. Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty wrote "Ji Taishan Inscription", the words are gorgeous but empty. Song Zhenzong was even more of a clown. As for Qin Shihuang, I am not very interested in his great achievements in unifying China. Whether he is "one emperor through the ages" has nothing to do with me. I only saw him from a human perspective, and I was deeply impressed by his "bee-eyed jackal sound." I think Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty was an extremely abnormal person, a delusional psychopath, a rare specimen of abnormal psychology. The enshrinement of these two great figures can be said to be an exaggeration of their personalities. It seems that the seals of these two great figures were actually not very good. Qin Shihuang went up the mountain, and when he was halfway up the mountain, he encountered a storm and was so frightened that he retreated. According to Qin Shihuang's character, what is a storm? If he makes up his mind, he can go to the top of the mountain no matter what. However, he got scared and retreated. It can be seen from this that great men also have a weak side. Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty wanted to confer Zen status and called together officials to discuss the system of Zen status. Since there was no old tradition to follow, everyone was talking nonsense. Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty was annoyed, and he stipulated a ceremony to worship Donghuang Taiyi and went up the mountain. But no one was allowed to go with them, except Huo Qubing's son. Huo Qubing's son soon became seriously ill and died. The cause of his death is suspicious. So no one knows what tricks Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty was working on on the top of the mountain. Conferring Zen is a grand ceremony, why should it be kept secret like this? It seems that Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty also had something in his heart, and he was very afraid that his tricks would not be effective and would be ridiculed by others.

However, I climbed Mount Tai again, looked at the Qin carved stones and the wordless stele (the wordless stele is a great masterpiece), sat down in the clouds and fog, and thought about it calmly, my My mentality is clearer. I admit that Mount Tai is majestic, even though I can't get along with it at all. Acknowledge that great people are truly great, even though many of the things they do are inhumane. They are strong among men, and there is nothing they can do about it. After staying in the mountains for seven days, my extreme emotions towards famous mountains, great rivers and great people have subsided.

At the same time, I have become more aware of my insignificance and my ordinaryness, and I have further become content with my insignificance and my ordinaryness.

This is the education I received in Mount Tai.

In a sense, Taishan is a mirror that reflects the value of everyone.

Bixia Yuanjun

Mount Tai affects people's emotions because it is related to people's life and death. After a person dies, his soul will be concentrated in the wormwood. There are two elegy in the Han Dynasty: "Xie Lu" and "Hao Li". It may be said that it was originally one song, but Li Yannian cut it into two parts. "Xie Lu" was given to the princes and nobles, and "Hao Li" was given to the officials and common people. I think the meaning of Erqu's words is that they form the beginning and the end, and they are the two tunes. "Hao Li" word cloud:

Whose land is in Hao Li?

There is no wise man or fool to gather souls.

Guibo Yihe is urging me,

Human life must be hesitant.

The writing is not as touching as "Snowy Dew", but it is as tragic as the words. When I went to Mount Tai ten years ago, I wanted to visit Haoli, but failed because the road was not smooth. A place as big as Haoli Mountain is, and all the ghosts in the world are gathered there. How can it be accommodated? Maybe ghosts are tangible and insubstantial, and it doesn't matter if they are squeezed a little. Later, for some reason, Fengdu City appeared again. This is troublesome. The ghosts will be at a loss. Should they go to Shandong or Sichuan? I think, whatever.

The God of Mount Tai is in charge of death. I don’t know what this god is. It may be said that he is the Jin Hong clan, or that he is Huang Feihu from "The List of Gods". Most Taoist gods are made up at random. I didn't check the files when I was editing, so I made a mess. Emperors of the past dynasties have repeatedly conferred titles on the God of Mount Tai, and the common people call him Dongyue Emperor. There is a Dongyue Temple, also known as Taishan Temple, almost all over the country. The Taishan Temple in our county is very close to my home. I am very familiar with this emperor. He has a shiny white face, thin eyebrows and five wisps of beard. I knew at a young age that the Great Emperor was Huang Feihu, and I thought it was funny even at a young age.

When a Chinese person dies and becomes a ghost, he has to go through many layers of transfer of relationships, and the procedures are quite cumbersome. First, the Zao Lord of the house reported the land, and the land was given a "palindrome", and then it was "registered" with the City God, and finally it was transferred to Emperor Dongyue to wait for his decision. Good people, climb the Silver Bridge. Taoist good people have to cross a bridge to go to heaven (this is quite a beautiful imagination), and this bridge is called "Shengxian Bridge". I've seen it with my own eyes, it's made of paper. After the Taoist priest chanted the sutra, the bridge was burned down. I don’t know if this dead man’s ascension to heaven was approved by Emperor Dongyue. However, the family members of the deceased knew that they had to pay the Taoist priest a service fee. Bad people, go to hell. There are various tortures in hell: going up a mountain of knives, going down an oil pan, sawing people, grinding people... These are all carved on the two corridors of Dongyue Temple, called "Seventy-two Divisions". I heard that Taishan Haoli Temple also has "Si", but it is not seventy-two, but seventy-five, which is an odd number. I don't know why. According to my impression, after death, very few people ascend the bridge to heaven, and most of them suffer in hell. No one wants to die, especially not to be tortured in the Seventy-Two Divisions - the Seventy-Two Divisions are very scary. I didn't dare to watch more when I was a child. Therefore, no one has a good impression of Emperor Dongyue. I still have to burn incense because I am afraid of him. The most popular place in Mount Tai is the Bixia Yuanjun Temple.

Bixia Yuanjun may be said to be the maid or daughter of Mount Tai, or the daughter of the Jade Emperor, or the sister of the Jade Emperor. The genealogy of Taoist gods is very messy, and one generation difference is nothing. Another theory is that she was the daughter of Shi Shoudao, a native of the Eastern Han Dynasty. This statement is not advisable. It lowers Yuanjun's bloodline and reduces him from a noble to a commoner. It was Zhenzong of the Song Dynasty who named her the "Fairy Lady Bixia Yuanjun". The common people call her Taishan Empress or Taishan Grandma. Bixia Yuanjun actually replaced Emperor Dongyue and became the main god of Mount Tai. "Everyone in Lidai prays at the Taishan Niangniang Temple, but the God of Mount Tai has been here for a long time" (Fogg's "Ting Yu Cong Tan"). The people of Tai'an "look up to Mount Tai all day long, but they don't know that Mount Tai exists, so it is called Nainai Mountain" (Wang Zhao's "Traveling to Shandong").

The God of Mount Tai is a goddess. Why? This is easily reminiscent of the return of the ancient secret psychology of maternal worship in primitive society, and of matrilineal society. This is not unreasonable. No matter how old we live, the memory of our mother for more than one generation is sealed deep in our psychology. Mother means birth. If Emperor Dongyue is the god of death, then Bixia Yuanjun is the god of life and the god of reproduction. Or to put it bluntly, the Mother Goddess. A person's life, in the cruel real life, is full of hardships and grievances, and he especially needs the comfort of his mother. In the eighth year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty, He Qiming, the governor of Shandong, climbed Mount Tai and saw that "people from all over come to pay homage to the Emperor Yuan by offering incense, and they often cry like children who have been separated from their parents for a long time." The word "father" here can be deleted. This phenomenon greatly shocked the governor, who "saw that behind the emotions of the masses there was a strong denial of the cold reality" (Che Xilun, "Mythology, Belief and Religion of the Goddess Taishan"). Governor He is a wise man who can see things clearly. For feudal rulers, this intoxicating and semi-crazy emotion was a terrifying force.

Bixia Yuanjun was of course cast into the mercenary color of secular religion, such as all kinds of people coming to make wishes and ask for children.

At the end of his "Mythology, Beliefs and Religion of the Goddess of Mount Tai", Comrade Che Xilun raised a very interesting question, that is, the issue of "purification" of Bixia Yuanjun. How to "purify"? We cannot renovate the Bixia Yuanjun Temple into a building like Notre Dame de Paris, nor can we invite a composer like Bach to write "Ode to the Bixia Yuanjun" like "Ave Maria". But it seems that there is no solution at all.

For example, can we organize a Taoist music band to play beautiful Taoist music, and mobilize some educated practitioners to chant Taoist scriptures, so that the image of Bixia Yuanjun can be sublimated and made more poetic?

Any famous mountain should improve its own cultural level and have the responsibility to improve the cultural quality of the entire people. I hope the authorities in charge of national tourism can think about this issue.

Taishan Stone Carvings

The first time I saw the Jingshiyu calligraphy was in an old home in Kunming. It was a four-character couplet with thick paper and thick ink. It was an earlier rubbing. . The light in the century-old house is dim, but the words are full of spirit and cannot be forgotten.

Go through Shiyu on the fork of Taishan Middle Road. The terrain of this place is very strange. How can there be a basically flat stone flat of one acre among the high mountains? Taishan stone is granite, mostly cyan, and the color of this stone flat is turmeric. There are no such stones around, which is strange. Who discovered this stone flat and thought of carving a "Diamond Sutra" on it? The diameter of the sutra characters is one and a half feet. The large characters on the cliff are usually carved on the upright stone cliffs. This is rarely seen on the flat stone flats. Such fonts are extremely rare elsewhere.

In Jingshiyu’s time, there were different opinions. Most people have no objection to saying that this is a font that transitions from official script to regular script.

Jingshiyu preserves more official script writing styles, but there is no silkworm head or wild goose tail. The pen is round and slightly flat. It can be connected to the "Shimen Inscription", but it is not as presumptuous as the "Shimen Inscription". Some people say that this and "The Inscription of the Crane" were both written by Wang Xizhi, which seems to have no evidence. Wang Xizhi's books mostly focus on one side, which is not the case in Shiyu. "The Inscription of the Crane" is slightly longer, the writing is thin and strong, and it is delicate and attractive. There is some truth in saying that it is similar to the two kings' books (I think it should be earlier than Wang Xizhi). Since the Jin and Tang dynasties, calligraphy has been expensive, thin and hard. Du Fu's poem "Books that are expensive, thin and hard can lead to spiritual enlightenment", which was a trend of the time. The characters in Jingshiyu are quite fat and heavy, but the bones are in the flesh, so they are fat but not stupid, and the writing is delivered without being dull. If we were to use one word to describe the word Shiyu, it would be: stable. This is a word written by a Buddhist practitioner who has a calm mind but a strong ambition. Isn’t this nonsense? How could the Diamond Sutra be written by someone who doesn’t study Buddhism? No, the sutra words have Buddha nature.

This kind of word is suitable for Mount Tai. Engraving it elsewhere will have no such effect. Ten years ago, I stayed in Jingshi Valley for a long time. I felt that the fatigue of two days was worth it after seeing Jingshi Valley. "Jingshiyu" is an inseparable part of "Mount Tai". Even if there is nothing else in Mount Tai, no Bixia Yuanjun Temple, no Nantianmen, and only one Jingshi Valley, it is still worth visiting.

I very much hope that someone can make a copy of the full text of Jing Shiyu characters (it has to be put together with many pieces of paper) and display it in Beijing. Even if a big house is built for it, it is not an exaggeration. .

Among the famous mountains, Mount Tai seems to have the most and best stone carvings. Daguan Peak is really a grand sight. There are so many large characters on the cliffs, most of which are very well written. This is like a large character competition on the cliffs, and none of them are shabby. This site (this is Shandong dialect) was also well chosen. The stone wall stands without cover, and there is an open space in front of the stone wall. People who read the words can read it from a distance and take in the whole picture without having to lie on the stone wall like a gecko. The characters on the cliff steles elsewhere are also well written. Most of the calligraphy on Moya are real calligraphy, with both Yanliu style and Yanliu style. This is why it can be suppressed (Cai Xiang usually writes cursive, but the stone inscriptions on Gushan are real calligraphy. Dong Qichang's handwriting is elegant, but his large characters are written in Yanliu style). Looking at the large-character inscriptions on the stele, many of them are governors of Shandong. Probably when you come to Shandong to be a governor, you must first practice calligraphy well.

Some cliff carvings are written by contemporary people. Compared with the previous people, they were not arrested. Some words can even be clearly seen as being enlarged and written on paper with a pencil or ballpoint pen. It's Wu Kezai.

It is strange that there is no tablet written by Han Fuju on Mount Tai. This man has been in Shandong for so long, why doesn't he want to come to Mount Tai and leave some traces? It seems that he is somewhat self-aware. Han Fuju once overhauled Taishan during his tenure. After the completion of the work, he sent a telegram to all parts of Taishan: "From now on, no one is allowed to write inscriptions or poems except those who are ordered to publish it." I am going to vote for him. Carving words casually is really a waste of Taishan.

Danshanren

I encountered a little danger on Mount Tai. On the stone steps from Tianjie to Shenqi Hotel, the iron tip of a mountain bearer's pole scratched the corner of his right eye, and blood started to flow. The mountain bearer came up from behind me and changed shoulders beside me. Danshanren said: "You should pay attention." The words were quite kind, but a bit unreasonable. He was behind me, but I didn't pay attention! I saw him carrying a heavy burden and didn't say anything (what can I say? Hold on to him and not let him go? I can't do such a thing yet). This mountain-dancing man is relatively young and has little experience in carrying mountains and being a human being. He carried four square cement bricks, two at each end. (Why not transport the raw materials to the mountains and make bricks on the mountains, carrying loads like this?) I looked at other Danshan people, and they all had loads of everything. Those who carry beer do not use baskets. The beer bottles stand upright and are tied tightly, with two layers. One load means fifty or sixty bottles. We drank beer on the mountain. Sometimes we opened a bottle and threw it away before finishing it. You can't do this in the future. This bottle of wine was hard-earned. There is a special feature of Taishan Danshan people. The load is not tied with ropes, but is tied directly to both ends of the pole. This way the center of gravity is very high. What are the benefits? Probably because it is tied with a rope, it is easy to touch your legs when climbing the mountain. I heard Comrade Lu Zongyuan from the Taishan Management Office say that people who carry mountains can generally carry 140 to 50 kilograms, and some can carry as much as 180 kilograms. They didn't walk fast, they took one step at a time, their feet were firmly on the ground and very steady.

Breathe evenly and not out of breath. Feng Yuxiang's poem "The Porters Going Up the Mountain" says that mountain bearers have "sore legs and panting, sweating like raindrops." If this is the case, then what kind of mountain bearers are they?

The shoulder pole of the Taishan Danshan people is longer than other places, wider and thicker in the middle, slightly tilted at both ends, and has an iron tip on one end (this type of pole with an iron tip is also found in Hunan, and is called a pole). The shoulder pole is made of purple-black material. I don’t know what kind of wood it is. It looks very strong and flexible. It can bear weight without weighing on the shoulders.

My minor injury was nothing. The bleeding stopped when we arrived at the hotel. The doctor wiped it with alcohol and came to check it out in the evening and said "there is no infection" (I was really worried that I might be infected with tetanus or something). Then he said: "The place where you pierced is not good! If you go further down and pierce deeper..."

"That will be troublesome!"

Under the Fanzi Cliff< /p>

Writers from Taishan Prose and Pen Club went to climb Fanzi Cliff. Jin Lan and I didn't go up. Ye Meng went up a bit and then came down in order to accompany us. Comrade Lu Zongyuan asked us to walk around casually below. Wait for the climbers to come down.

This is also a scenic spot, Zhulin Temple Scenic Management Area, but Zhulin Temple only has its name, and the temple no longer exists. This is the Taishan West Road, which is not the main road for mountain climbing. There are very few tourists. Except for those who come specifically to climb Fanzi Cliff, almost no one comes. This is less like a scenic spot and more like a village in the mountains. There is a farmhouse a little further away. Sweet potatoes (i.e. sweet potatoes) are grown in the ground. There are nearly a hundred sheep in a forest. One color is the black goat. The goats in Taishan are different from those elsewhere. Their fur is thick black, and their eye circles and mouth are brown. The black goats elsewhere have light gray eyes and mouth. These sheep were scattered on the rocks, standing or lying, motionless, only their mouths kept grinding and chewing the cud. These sheep look very "ancient". There is a small temple called Wuji Temple. There is an old woman selling soda outside the temple. Wuji Temple is extremely small. The Wuji Empress is sculpted on the main hall, and the auxiliary halls on both sides are sculpted on one side to give birth to the Empress and on the other to the Eye Empress. They are as simple as the Bixia Yuanjun Temple. I don’t know why Chinese people attach so much importance to the Queen of Eyes. There are many temples. Is it because China has so many eye diseases? Wuji Temple is small, no one comes, and there is no abbot or monk. There are two trees and a stone bench in the courtyard, so it is very quiet. Sitting on the stone bench is very comfortable. When I went out, I asked the old woman selling soda drinks: "Does anyone buy soda drinks?" The answer was: "Yes!"

Exit Wuji Temple and walk slowly along the mountain road. The road was a bit undulating, and Ye Meng had to help me on the rocky steps, but it was basically smooth. There is a stone pavilion halfway up the mountain. Sit outside the pavilion and look out at the Changshou Bridge nearby and the Black Dragon Pond in the distance. As Wang Xu said in his poem "Xixi", "The smoke and scenery of the river merge together, and the paintings spread out on three sides." It is very beautiful. Xu Anren's poem "Visiting the Bamboo Forest of Mount Tai" says: "Visitors always say it's good to visit the mountains, but monks who don't know the mountains hate the mountains." This is unique in the poems about mountain tours. When I was in Mount Tai, although I was not tired of the mountains, I was still tired from going up and down for days. I was able to find a secluded place beyond the majesty, majesty, wonder, and danger (Wang Xu's "Visiting the Bamboo Forest Temple": "The bamboo forest is blooming" "Secret Land") taking half a day off is also a good rest.

In the evening, all the mountaineers came down and they were all very tired. Jin Lan and I thought it was a good idea not to climb Fanzi Cliff.

When I left, the old woman selling soda drinks had left, and the door of Wuji Temple was open.

When I came back and looked through the information, the origin of Wuji Temple turned out to be this: In 1925, when Zhang Zongchang was in charge of Lu, Yanzhou Governor Zhang Peirong named his wife "Wuji Zhenren" and built it on the former site of Zhulin Temple. Wuji Temple, I couldn’t help laughing. It is also strange for a guard envoy to "consecrate" his wife as a "real person". Only Zhang Zongchang's subordinates could probably do this kind of thing.

Zhongxi Hotel

Zhongxi Hotel is located at Zhongtianmen, with a quiet path leading to it and two floors of guest rooms, which is quiet and quiet. There is a long courtyard outside the building, planted with small shrubs, including boxwood, small-leaf holly, and Japanese maple. There is a stone square pavilion at the west end of the courtyard, protruding out of the mountain rocks, facing the empty valley below, and resting on the four walls. There are stone tables and benches in the pavilion. Sitting in the pavilion, you can feel the mountains and scenery coming together. In Sichuan dialect, it is really "comfortable".

The food is very good, and there are wild vegetables for every meal. When I went to Mount Tai ten years ago, I ate wild vegetables, but not as much as this time. There are more than one hundred edible wild vegetables in Mount Tai, among which thirty-one are the main ones. There are only two ways to eat wild vegetables, one is to blanch them in boiling water and then serve them cold, the other is to wrap them in egg white batter and fry them. The wild vegetables we have eaten this time are as follows:

Amaranth (also known as snow green. Slightly blanched and served cold. It can also be fried or steamed)

Wild amaranth ( Cold or stir-fried)

Purslane (cold or stir-fried)

Fern (i.e. quinoa, blanched and cold)

Day lily (from the top of Mount Tai The day lily is light yellow, different from the golden ones elsewhere, and the petals are thicker and tender. It is very fragrant and can be eaten cold or stir-fried, and can also be made into soup.)

Huoxiang (the Huoxiang used in Huoxiang Zhengqi Pills). . Shandong people pronounce "Huo" like "River", and they don't know what "Hexiang" is at first, but after serving it, they realize that it is a traditional Chinese medicine wrapped in Patchouli leaves and fried)

Mint (wild. Deep-fried, it is not cold in the mouth, and has a mint aroma after chewing it carefully)

Perilla (locally called Su Ye, has the same name as Nanjing female writer Su Ye, but Nanjing Su Ye cannot be eaten wrapped in bread and deep-fried) Ears)

Chinese toon leaves (Chinese toon has no buds, but its leaves can still be fried and eaten)

Hibiscus flower (fried whole flower, the flower shape will not change after frying, one flower One blooms on the disk. It tastes just crispy and has no special taste, just fun)

The hotel manager Zhu Zhenglun transplanted the wild vegetables in the open space outside the canteen. If you want to eat, the cook will pick them. So they are all very fresh.

Manager Zhu said that guests from Hong Kong and Taiwan were very interested in the wild vegetable feast at Zhongxi Hotel. That is, how can we eat wild vegetables in Hong Kong?

The waiters in the hotel are all young girls, who are very kind to people and do not have too much professional politeness like the waiters in star hotels. They have roughly figured out the details of the eighteen writers in the "Prose PEN Club". A girl named Mifeng wears a pair of glasses. I jokingly call her a scholar-type waiter. She brought a copy of "The Collection of Puqiao" for me to sign. She said she bought it in Dai'an in January this year. She said she liked the "Rain in Kunming" the best. She said she didn't expect me to come and saw me. So happy. I signed the title page and wrote a few words.

In the seven days in the mountain, except for one night at the Shenqi Hotel on the top of the mountain, I stayed at the Zhongxi Hotel for six days. Set off in the morning and return in the evening. People are really weird. It's a hotel, but when you step into the door, you feel like you're home.

I asked Comrade Zhu Zhenglun why this place is called Zhongxi. He pointed to the hilltop opposite and said that there is a stream on the mountain, which is the main stream of Mount Tai. Because it is in Mount Tai, it is named Zhongxi. I heard people say how high Mount Tai is and how high the water is, and I believed it.

Written for two nights. Wrote a four-foot banner for the Zhongxi Hotel: On the Chongxi Ridge, people are among the chaotic clouds.

Before leaving, all the hotel staff came out to take us to the car down the hill. Spending three nights under the mulberry tree is a feeling of love. If I come to Mount Tai again, I will stay in Zhongxi.

Taishan Yunwu

On the second day of Suzhongxi Hotel, I got up very early, opened the door of the guest room, and went to the courtyard to see heavy fog. The fog moves slowly between the peaks and valleys, sometimes thickening and then lightening. All the mountains near and far are covered with light shades of dark green, appearing and disappearing. After breakfast, the fog gradually dispersed, and the mountains looked like freshly washed.

Climb to the top of the Jade Emperor, come down to the sea-exploring stone, and then go to the back mountain instead of the usual road. The trail in the back mountain is narrow and unmanaged. It can only accommodate enough in some places and is quite dangerous. I sprained my foot once in Yunnan in April. I had an old injury, so I was extra careful. But the back mountain is worth seeing. The mountains are all standing on the wall, straight up and down, the rocks are several feet long, and the brushwork is rough and bold, like a big axe. Suddenly there was heavy fog. When I looked back at the Jade Emperor Peak, it was completely gone and I could only hear the chirping of birds. From the sound of birds, I know the location of the mountains and pine forests where I came from, and I know that they are not far away. However, as far as the eye can see, there is nothing but thick fog.

Sushenqi Hotel, at night, Zhang Kangkang and I went out of the hotel door to take a look, and saw only a vast expanse of white, which could not be distinguished as clouds or fog. We wanted to take a walk on Tianjie, but the waiter advised us not to go because it was dangerous, so we had to lean on the stone railing and take a look. The clouds and mist are so thick that it seems like if you drop an egg, it won't sink to the bottom. It's just a vast expanse of white. When did you see it? Go back. Kangkang said that when she was a child, she saw clouds flowing into the house and thought it was very magical. Not wanting us to go back, we opened the glass door. Yunwu came in ahead of us, not polite at all, as if someone invited it.

The night we left Mount Tai, the fog was extremely heavy. With the car lights on, the visibility was only two feet. The driver has been driving in Taishan for ten years and is an old Taishan driver. He said that out-of-town drivers were afraid to drive in this weather. We left Mount Tai in a fog and confusion.

In the car, I thought: There are so many clouds and mists in Mount Tai, why not grow tea? Historical records: Tea drinking in China began at Lingyan Temple in Mount Tai. So, there were originally tea trees in Mount Tai. The water in Mount Tai is so good (locals say: Mount Tai has three beauties: cabbage, tofu, and water). It must be great to make Taishan tea with Mount Tai water. I would like to make a suggestion to the Taishan Management Committee: try planting tea trees. Maybe the management committee has already thought of it. Next time I come to Taishan, I hope to drink Taishan rock tea, or "blue clouds and new green".

End of July 1991, Beijing

※Selected from: "Culture and Spring and Autumn"※