Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Travel guide - What kind of boots should I buy?
What kind of boots should I buy?
Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages, which will be briefly introduced as follows:
1. Cowhide
is divided into cattle hide, buffalo hide, etc. Generally, the strength of cattle hide is better than buffalo hide. According to the age of cattle, cowhide can be divided into fetal cowhide, calf cowhide, middle cowhide and cowhide. Generally, the lower the age of cattle, the higher the price and the higher the grade, but it does not mean that the higher the price, the better the leather strength. Cowhide can generally be divided into two layers, the first layer is generally used to make leather shoes uppers, and the second layer is generally used to make sports shoes and leather shoes mats. The price of the first layer cowhide is much higher than that of the second layer cowhide.
2. Sheepskin
can be divided into sheepskin and goatskin. Generally, the fastness of goatskin is better than that of goatskin, while the softness and wearing comfort of goatskin are better than goatskin. Sheepskin is generally not distinguished by the age of the sheep.
3. Pigs
are generally used less in uppers, but relatively more in children's shoes. Pigskin has a lower price and is generally used to make lippi in adult shoes. Pigskin is generally divided into two layers, the first layer has better strength and the second layer has worse strength, but the price of the first layer is about five times more expensive than that of the second layer.
4. Other animal skins
For example, crocodile skin, kangaroo skin, deer skin, lizard skin, snake skin, pearl fish skin, ostrich skin, ostrich foot skin and frog skin, shoes made from the above animal skins are often expensive because of their scarce sources, but this does not mean that these skins are very good in wearing fastness.
second, what kind of boots are comfortable to wear
boots are comfortable to wear mainly from these six aspects:
1. Fabric
When identifying leather shoes, you should first check the upper material and determine the type of upper leather. For example, if the "genuine leather" grain surface layer is used, it has the original natural characteristics: the pores of cowhide are small, irregular and uniform; The pores and eyes of goatskin are "tile-shaped" in rows; Pigskin has three holes and a pile, which is distributed in character. Cattle hide has fine tissue fibers, rough buffalo hide and coarse pores and eyes.
if the grain surface layer loses its original characteristics after modification, it should be carefully classified and identified according to the processing technology.
aniline leather coated with aniline is characterized by crystal clear light on the surface, bright light, no glare and no plastic feeling. Natural leather is cooked into leather, and the cowhide is generally 5 ~ 6mm thick. Shoemaking should be divided into two layers by a leather chipper. The surface layer is a grain surface layer, with fine and compact tissue fibers, smooth and beautiful appearance, good strength and wear resistance, and the inner layer is a pile surface layer with thick fibers, large gaps and fluff on the surface. The surface of the first leather is smoother and flatter than that of the second leather.
the two-layer leather is slightly rough. The surface of the two-layer leather can not be rough after coating, film transfer or film pasting, but the film transfer leather has poor low temperature resistance and is prone to wrinkles at low temperature. The cowhide two-layer leather is flat and has no obvious defects after embossing, while the pigskin two-layer leather often has three piles of pores faintly visible, where the luster is dark. We should pay attention to the fact that the modified leather destroys the original grain surface layer, and then presses the pattern. The pattern types can imitate cattle, sheep, pig skin, etc., but the pattern has no pore eyes, and the pattern floats on the surface layer of the leather, while the pore eyes of the front leather exist, which can be identified by careful observation. Artificial leather is coated with a layer of organic material on the base of cloth, which is divided into two types: thin (imitation sheep leather) and thick (coated with foamed organic material and then pressed with patterns), and is mostly used for women's shoes and children's shoes. Synthetic leather is a kind of shoe upper leather made by pressing organic fibers and coating laminated flowers, which is mostly used in sandals. Regenerated leather is made by grinding leather residue and leather fiber, bonding them with adhesive under high pressure, forming sheets, slicing them to the required thickness, and then finishing them to make them have certain leather characteristics. They are widely used in luggage and leather parts, and a small amount are used to make shoes. When distinguishing genuine leather from artificial materials, look at the appearance first. Genuine leather has no base, and artificial materials have a base. If you touch it again, the artificial material has a very strong plastic feeling and bright luster, but it feels cold when you touch it in winter, and the leather is smooth and has no cold feeling when you touch it. Press the soft part in front of the finished product with the thumb, and there will be many small and uniform patterns in the dermis around the thumb. When the thumb is lifted, the patterns will disappear, and the artificial? The material may not have patterns, or it may have coarse patterns. When the thumb is lifted, the patterns do not disappear, indicating that the grain surface layer on the surface of the material has been detached from the mesh layer below, and the leather shoes made of this fabric are unqualified. ? Distinguish between genuine leather and artificial leather. You can also observe the cross section at the upper. The cross section of genuine leather is composed of irregular fibers, which is scraped off with fingernails. There is no obvious change in the cross section after breaking the skin fiber. For the dermis, the texture of different parts is irregular, and the nose smells fishy, but it is artificial. Leather smells like plastic or rubber, and the texture of each part is consistent. ? Sticking leather is to stick an artificial surface layer on the loose fiber layer of the lower layer of natural leather, which cannot be called "genuine leather", but is made of? Synthetic leather with natural leather inner layer as the base.
2. Shoe lining, hook center and shoe seam
The shoe lining of leather shoes is a reinforcing material used to prevent stretching and deformation and improve the touch of the foot surface. It is required that the shoe lining material has a delicate touch, excellent ventilation, moisture absorption and drainage, and does not lose color.
The middle and high-grade leather shoes are all made of natural leather and cotton cloth, and those with artificial leather in them are low-grade products. The bottom of the shoe is the pond bottom. When checking, the shoe is folded at an angle of 9, so it can't crack. Some fake shoes use unqualified recycled leather pond bottom and cardboard non-woven pond bottom. Because of the low latex content in the materials, they become soft after absorbing sweat. The hook of the sole-a steel plate that serves as a bridge between the insole and the outsole-may go out of the pond bottom and prick the sole. The length, width, elastic modulus, etc. of the hook center, as well as the deformation after external force, are stipulated in national standards, and must have certain elasticity and rigidity.
65 manganese steel shall be used as the material, and the elastic limit load shall not be less than 29N. Check whether there is a broken line and whether the stitching is standard and tidy when checking the sewing line of the upper and the adhesive seam of the upper and sole. For glued leather shoes, the joint between the upper and the bottom should be bonded flat without furrows and ridges, and there is no virtual seam and glue opening. The peeling strength of glued leather shoes is 54N/cm for men's shoes and 4 ~ 49 n/cm for women's shoes. If the sample is initially glued on the testing machine (that is, the adhesive seam of the outer upper and outsole is deformed and discolored), it is unqualified. Consumers can break off the upper or press it inward. If the joint between the upper and the outsole appears discoloration or glue opening, it indicates poor adhesion.
3. Sole
The outsole of leather shoes is divided into rubber, imitation leather, plastic and rubber-plastic soles according to raw materials.
the rubber sole is soft, elastic, non-slip, wear-resistant, heat-resistant, cold-resistant and slightly heavier. The imitation leather sole is light, stiff, wear-resistant and flexible, but it has poor elasticity and is not slip-proof. The plastic sole is wear-resistant, flat and smooth in appearance, bright in color, non-slip, poor in cold resistance and heavy. Rubber-plastic soles have the advantages of both rubber and plastic, and are wear-resistant, elastic and soft, so they are the first choice for middle and high-grade shoes at present. The standard for the thickness of the stressed part of the forefoot of the outsole requires that it should reach 2/3 of the total thickness of the outsole. During inspection, the depth of the inner and outer patterns of the stressed part of the outsole should be calculated at the same time, and it should not exceed 1/3 of the total thickness of the outsole. If this standard is not met, fake and inferior shoes can be judged. In addition to thickness, soles should also have folding resistance and wear resistance. Because the soles are generally made of polymer materials, the folding resistance of the soles is tested on a special folding tester according to national standards. After the soles are folded at a certain frequency, at a certain angle and for a certain number of times, the cracking length of the soles is not more than 4, 15 and 12mm according to different varieties. According to the national standards, the inspection of the wear resistance of soles is carried out on a special wear tester, so that the inspected soles are in contact with a standard grinding wheel and are subjected to certain pressure, and the grinding wheel rotates at a certain speed. After a certain wear time, according to different varieties, the length of wear marks is not more than 16, 12 and 1mm, which is qualified. A certain adhesive strength is required between the outsole and the outsole of travel shoes. When testing, it should be tested by universal material testing machine or tensile force. Tester, the adhesive strength is not less than 2N/cm for qualified.
4. Heel
After fixing the shoe, clamp the heel and pull it with a tension machine to see how much tension it can withstand. The heel standard of shoes stipulates that in visual inspection, the heel should be broken by hand first to observe the deformation of the sub-opening (the opening where the outer side is connected with the heel). If the deformation is large, there may be something wrong with the heel, then take off the insole and see the heel installation. High heels over 4cm must be fixed by a wooden screw, and the whole fastness of the heel is guaranteed by the wooden screw and several wooden nails inside. The wood should be made of good material, and the wood screw can't be split when it goes in, otherwise you can observe the deformation of the heel or the looseness of the heel when you break the heel lightly.
5. Appearance
Put the shoes flat on the counter or glass plate at will to see if the shoes are stable.
When the shoes are placed on the table top, they should stop shaking from side to side immediately. Looking back from the toe, there should be little difference between the inside and outside edges of the soles and the table top, so it is better to keep them in balance. The heel of the shoe should be vertical up and down, and it is better not to tilt to the outside or inside. Thirdly, looking down at the vamp from top to bottom, it is better to see the symmetry of the vamp components and whether the outline of the shoe is deformed. It is better to take the straight line between the toe and the midpoint of the heel as the symmetry axis, and to see whether the components on the vamp are symmetrical, and it is better not to move forward and backward when the inside and the outside are symmetrical. The outline of the shoe should be held slightly towards the inside of the shoe, and it is better to be smooth and round, and the shoes twisted into lotus leaves are inferior shoes.
During the appearance inspection of shoes, we should also pay attention to the fact that the upper is not allowed to have obvious disability, loose surface, peeling of coating, cracking and discoloration. The overall structure of the shoes should be straight and flat, with no spikes exposed in the shoes. The same parts of the two shoes should be symmetrical left and right, the hardness, color and structure of the soles should be consistent, and there should be no obvious difference in the length of the front upper and the height of the rear upper. The two uppers and soles should be closely combined, and there should be no obvious wrinkles on the upper.
6. Try by hand
Touch the inner cavity of the shoe with your hand to see if there is unevenness in the shoe. Any place that can touch the feet should not be uneven, otherwise the feet will blister, and under normal circumstances, there must be insoles in the shoes. The insole can keep the inside of the shoe clean and cover a few uneven nail holes on the insole. Under normal circumstances, men's shoes are half insoles, and women's shoes should be integral insoles. Then pinch the heel of the upper with your hand to see if it is stiff and elastic, not too hard, or it will hurt your ankle.
The insole of the shoe is the trunk and skeleton of the shoe, so it is better to press the waist hard as the insole, so as not to move. Touch the insole of the shoe with the fingertip of the index finger downward, and let the index finger close to the upper of the lateral ankle to see if the second knuckle line of the index finger is consistent with the height of the lateral ankle.
Generally, shoes for daily use, social etiquette shoes and fashion shoes should be slightly higher than the second knuckle line of the index finger. The back uppers of low-waisted sports shoes and leisure shoes are all soft-mouthed, and the height of the lateral ankle uppers can be slightly higher than the second knuckle line of the index finger. Insert the tip of your middle finger under the toe sole to see if the toe height is appropriate. When the toe of the toe is just enough for the thickness of the belly of the middle finger, it indicates that the toe of the toe is just qualified. When the front toe of the toe is too large, the smoothness decreases.
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