Looking for the gameplay and snack strategy of Nanluoguxiang.

Nanluoguxiang is one of the oldest blocks in Beijing and one of the 25 planned old city protection areas. However, in recent years, it has become a hot topic in many fashion magazines. Many TV dramas are filmed here, and many foreign tourists list it as a must-see attraction in Beijing. In fact, since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it has been a "rich area", where many dignitaries and celebrities live. From the generals of the Ming Dynasty to the princes of the Qing Dynasty, from the president of the Beiyang government to the president of the Kuomintang, from the master of literature to the master of painting, every hutong here has left traces of history.

■ Historical and cultural background

■ Nanluoguxiang: the well-preserved "Jasper" in the ancient capital Beijing.

Nanluoguxiang runs north and south, about 800 meters long, and there are eight hutongs in the east and west. The eight hutongs in the west are Fuxiang Hutong, Suoyi Hutong, Yuer Hutong, Maoer Hutong, Jingyang Hutong, Shajing Hutong, Heizhima Hutong and Qianguyuan Hutong from south to north. The eight hutongs in the east are Fried Bean Hutong, Banchang Hutong, Donghua Mian Hutong, Beibingmu Temple Hutong, Qinlao Hutong, Ganyuan Ensi Hutong, Houyuan Ensi Hutong and Juer Hutong. These hutongs had no names in the Yuan Dynasty, but their names gradually evolved after the Ming Dynasty. For example, Ju 'er Hutong was called Ju 'er Hutong in Ming Dynasty and later renamed Clementine Musician Hutong. When Xuantong established the capital in the Qing Dynasty, it was called Ju 'er Hutong, which has continued to this day. The whole block is like a big centipede, so it is also called centipede street.

Li Fang is the basic unit of ancient settlement organization and urban planning and construction in China. It was called "Li", "Lu" or "Lu Li" in the pre-Qin period. From the Northern Wei Dynasty, the name "Fang" appeared. Chang 'an in the Tang Dynasty was the largest city in the world at that time, with 108 squares in the whole city. In the planning and design of the Yuan Dynasty, the Li Fang system continued. The whole city is divided into 50 squares with wide and straight streets between them, just like a chessboard.

In the Ming Dynasty, Beijing was divided into 28 squares, and the two squares were merged and called "Zhao Hui Gong Jing Square". The Qing Dynasty was a yellow flag. Nanluoguxiang was once called Luoguo Lane, and the city map drawn by Qianlong 15 (1750) was renamed Nanluoguxiang.

At present, the north of Nanluoguxiang block is Gulou East Street, the south is Di 'anmen East Street, the west is Di 'anmenwai Street, and the east is Jiaokou South Street. The rectangular plot surrounded by these four streets is exactly the two squares in the Yuan Dynasty. It is bounded by Nanluoguxiang and "Zhao Huifang" in the east. Gong Jing Square is in the west, and Nanluoguxiang is the boundary lane between the two squares.

The Li Fang in Chang 'an in Tang Dynasty has long since disappeared, and the Li Fang structure in Yuan Dynasty has been unrecognizable in more than 800 years of historical changes. However, Nanluoguxiang area still preserves the historical relics of Li Fang in Yuan Dynasty. The pattern of hutong is so complete that all kinds of luxury houses and houses in hutong are colorful. It is really a well-preserved "Jasper" in the style of Beijing's ancient capital.

In the hot summer in Beijing, I came to Nanluoguxiang on a rare cool afternoon when it was raining in Mao Mao. Nanluoguxiang has attracted the attention of fashionistas and foreign tourists in recent years, because since the new century, many bars have inadvertently appeared in this ancient small street. Now it has become another bar street in Beijing after Sanlitun and Shichahai.

Some people say that Sanlitun Bar Street is colored, Shichahai Bar Street is crimson, and Nanluoguxiang Bar Street is emerald green. Such comments may not only refer to the color of nature, but also point to its different cultural connotations. Every hutong here has a rich cultural accumulation, and every house is telling an ancient story.

■ Sengelinqin Wang Fu, across the Hutong of Fried Bean Board Factory.

The first alley east of the south exit of Nanluoguxiang is Fried Bean Hutong. Next to Gate 77, not far from the west entrance of Chaodou Hutong, there is a sign of key cultural relics protection units in Dongcheng District, which reads "Heshang Palace". Monk Palace is the palace of Monk Qin in Qing Dynasty. Sanggelinqin is the Mongolian Horqin Banner. 1825 captured the king of Horqin county, and 1855 crowned the prince. He is good at fighting, but he is a man with mixed reputation in history. 1859 participated in the Dagu naval battle and defeated the British and French allied forces. 1863, he was ordered to suppress the nian army in Shandong, Henan and Anhui. 1May, 865, he was killed in a fierce battle with the Nian Army in Cao Zhou, Shandong. After his death, his son, Bo Yan Nome, inherited the title of Prince Jue, so the old residents in this area also called this mansion "Bo Wang Fu". Wang Bo, a former commander, was a "master" of Guangxu and taught Guangxu to ride and shoot.

The original monastery was large in scale, with the front door in Chaodou Hutong and the back door in Banchang Hutong, spanning two hutongs. Wang Fu is divided into three roads, namely Middle Road, East Road and West Road, and each road has four entrances. Among them, in addition to the main courtyard, there are four entrances on the East Road leading to the East Courtyard, forming a large building complex.

After the Republic of China, the mansion was gradually auctioned by the descendants of the prince and divided into many courtyards. The existing Fried Bean Hutong No.71No.77 (odd number) and Banchang Hutong No.30-34 (even number) are all within the original scope of Wang Fu.

The west entrance of fried bean alley is the ancestral hall of the monk Qin family and a large group of buildings. Ancestral temples and palaces were built in an alley, which was rare in Qing Dynasty. It has been converted into "Green Pine Garden Hotel". It is rare to find such a quiet and antique quadrangle hotel in the beauty and elegance.

■ The Central Academy of Drama was originally the former residence of Jin, commander-in-chief of the Duan government army and acting prime minister.

Go north along Nanluoguxiang, and the third alley in the east is Donghuamian Hutong. Not far from the entrance is the famous Central Academy of Drama. As the top learning stage and film and television performance institution in China, its area is really not large, including the experimental theater, which only occupies a part of the west between Donghuamian Hutong and Beimilisi Hutong. However, the temple is not big, and God is spiritual. Here, generations of China drama and film stars have been trained. Chen, Chen, Jiang Wen, Gong Li and Zhang Ziyi all studied and lived here.

This used to be Kim's old house. Jin (1877- 195 1) graduated from Beiyang Military Equipment School in his early years and worked as a staff officer of the Qing army in Yunnan 19 town. Later, he was trusted by Yuan Shikai and served as the governor of Shandong. After 19 19, he served as chief of staff and acting prime minister of the army of the Duan government.

After Jin bought this place, he demolished some quadrangles and built several western-style buildings. 192 1 At the end of the year, Jin resigned and lived in Tianjin for a long time. In the 1960s, there were several old buildings in the hospital, which were used as office buildings and dormitories for single teachers. After another 40 years, all the old buildings have been demolished, and there is no trace of the Jinfu.

■ Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting, once lived in Yuer Hutong, which was once the private residence of a general minister in the Qing Dynasty.

To the west of Donghuamian Hutong is Yuer Hutong, where Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting, once lived. Not far from the hutong, the sign of "Beijing Artists Association" is hung beside the gate of North Road 13. The gate is open, and on the left is a message room. A middle-aged man greeted him. As usual, he asked me who I was looking for, and I explained that I wanted to see the former residence of Qi Baishi. This gentleman is even better than the waiter at the old cadre activity station. He said that this is a unit and should not be visited, but you have come a long way, so just have a brief look.

The yard is spacious and well protected. There is a big fish tank in the middle of the yard. There is no repainting here, revealing the original flavor of the old house door. While watching, this gentleman also told me. He said that this was once the private residence of a minister in charge of the Qing internal affairs office. Because the materials of the palace were used privately during the construction, the organizational system went beyond the level, so it was disintegrated and the house was sold in several parts. 13 hospital is only a part. After liberation, the Ministry of Culture bought it and Mr. Qi Baishi lived in it. However, the old man lived in Xicheng and soon moved to straddle the Hutong, so now the former residence of Qi Baishi refers to straddle the Hutong.

■ Noble Maoer Hutong

Out of Yuer Hutong, follow Nanluoguxiang and continue to go north. Luxi is Maoer Hutong.

I have seen a few backpackers in several hutongs in the south, but the number is small, unlike some reports. I think it may be raining these days, and Nanluoguxiang is building roads. The road is uneven and muddy, which makes it impossible for travelers to walk. But just turning into Maoer Hutong, I found myself wrong. The crowd in Maoer Hutong is bustling and very lively. Dozens of "Hutong Tour" tricycles are parked next to Hutong. Wave after wave of foreign tourists, either listening to the tour guide's explanation or watching and taking pictures with the small flag, are all focused and interested.

Keyuan: The home garden of Yu Wen, a university student in the late Qing Dynasty, is considered to be the most artistic garden among private gardens in Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty.

The odd-numbered courtyards from No.7 Lubei to No.0/5 Kloc were originally a group of large buildings, which were the residence and garden of Yu Wen, a university student in the late Qing Dynasty. Five hospitals are connected in parallel, covering an area of 1 1000 square meters. Yu Wen was a native of Zhenglan Banner in Manchuria in Qing Dynasty. He has successively held important positions such as Sichuan provincial judge, Shandong governor and Zhili governor. He was a bachelor of Wuyingtang in Guangxu 10. He accumulated a lot of wealth and carefully built his own house and garden. The park was built in 186 1 and named "Keyuan", covering an area of about 4 mu. Although it is not very big, it is spacious and elegant, and it is considered to be the most artistic garden among private gardens in Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty.

It has been listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit, but it is not open to the public. Several people gathered in front of the yard to discuss: Gongwangfu Garden has been open for several years, but when will it be open to the public, so that everyone can appreciate its "true face".

This house has also changed hands several times and experienced many vicissitudes. During the Beiyang government, after Yuan Shikai's death, Feng, the acting president, bought this house when he came to Beijing from Nanjing to take office. When Japan occupied Beiping, the Feng family sold their house to Zhang Lanfeng, commander of the puppet army. After liberation, Courtyard No.9 to 1 1 used to be the North Korean Embassy in China, and later it was changed into a guest house and unit dormitory. Although it has undergone several changes, the house has been well preserved and the overall pattern has not changed much.

■ No.35 and No.37 courtyards in Lubei are the last graceful maiden.

Further west, Courtyard No.35 and Courtyard No.37 north of the road are the houses of Guo Bole's family. Not many people say that the Guo Bole family may know. Generally speaking, it is the maiden of the last emperor, empress Xuan Tong. In the Qing Dynasty, it should be called "Hou Di". Xuan Tong got married in the Republic of China 1 1 year, but he still fulfilled the preferential treatment conditions of the Qing court royal family promulgated in the early years of the Republic of China, so he spent a lot of money on this "back house" and made a big renovation. Wanrong's father, Rong Yuan, was named as a "third-class benefactor" because of his daughter's "Houshu", and this mansion has also become a benefactor's mansion, which needs to be greatly rebuilt to meet the specifications of the mansion. For example, the original courtyard door was changed into three yamen doors, and the inner and outer screen walls and the left and right screen doors were rebuilt.

The house we see now, with three government gates, has been surrounded by walls and turned into a house with three inverted seats for people to use. On the back cornice wall of seven south rooms, two doors were opened, which became the present No.35 and No.37.

According to some data, No.45 in the west is the Qing Taishou yamen. I walked forward cheerfully, but I didn't see anything like a yamen. Suddenly I saw the number 45, but inside it was a six-story dormitory building, like the one built in the 1970s and 1980s. There is a ten-story building on the street. My heart sank. This may be the only high-rise building in this block, just like a dissonance suddenly appeared in a beautiful piece of music.

It is particularly worth mentioning that Mr. Zhu Jiajin, an expert on Chinese cultural relics and Qing history who is known as the "national treasure" in the cultural relics field, once lived in the courtyards of Maoer Hutong 13, 15, 35, 37 and Chaodou Hutong 7 1, and described these mansions in detail. When he lived in 13 and 15 when he was a child, he also witnessed the restoration and reconstruction of "Hou Di". Mr. Zhu is a researcher at the Palace Museum and a member of the National Cultural Relics Appraisal Committee. He has an in-depth study of Beijing's history, geography, cultural relics and folk customs. His death on September 29th, 2003 was a great loss to the academic and cultural circles in China.

■ Several houses in Qinlao Hutong and Heizhima Hutong.

Go north after getting out of Maoer Hutong, and the east side of the road is Qinlao Hutong.

No.35, Qin Lao Hutong, is also a beautiful house. It used to be the residence of Suojia, the chief minister of the interior office of the Qing Dynasty. The yard is not very big, but it is exquisite. There is a small garden in front of his study, called the rest garden. There are rockeries, verandas, pavilions and a boat-shaped open gallery in the park, which is small but far-reaching and quite artistic in Jiangnan gardens. Standing in front of the gate, only the brick carving on the upper floor of the gate has amazed me. This sculpture is very beautiful and well preserved. It's a rare treasure of brick carving.

Out of Qin Lao Hutong, north and west is Heizhima Hutong. When I entered the alley, it suddenly rained heavily. I hurried to 13 and hid at the door to avoid the rain. The door is on a high step, with stones up and down in front, and a high shadow wall opposite the door. There are two boys playing ball at the door. I asked them, "Do you live here?" "yes." "Is this yard big?" "Great!" "Do you know the great men who used to live here?" They shook their heads and said, "Never heard of it." A few words brought me closer to my children. I told them that this was the residence of Kuijun, governor of Sichuan and minister of war in the late Qing Dynasty, and they were very interested. I said, "Can I go in and have a look? Let's talk while walking. " The boys enthusiastically took me to the yard.

Although some huts have been built in the yard, the general pattern can still be seen. * * * five into the yard, are relatively intact. I wanted to take some photos, but it rained too hard. I bid farewell to the enthusiastic children and went back to the door to take shelter from the rain. I want to take more photos next time, but will I meet such a lovely child next time and let me go in again?

The luxury houses you have been to are all in the hutongs on both sides, not in Nanluoguxiang? At that time, the houses were all facing south, so they were mostly in the east-west alley, and the big houses were all in the north of the alley. But Nanluoguxiang is not completely absent. There is one at No.59 Nanluoguxiang, which is the residence of Hong Chengchou, a famous descendant of the Qing Dynasty in the late Ming Dynasty. Hongfu was very big at that time, and most of the courtyards between Shajing Hutong and Heizhima Hutong belonged to Zhai Hong, all the way to the east gate of the square brick factory. There are also people named Hong here. I wonder if they are descendants of Hong Chengchou?

■ Mao Dun's former residence and Chiang Kai-shek's hangyuan

Opposite Heizhima Hutong, to the east is Hou Yuanensi Hutong. Not far from Hutong, 13 is the former residence of Mao Dun. Compared with many deep houses in this area, Mao Dun's former residence is too ordinary and unremarkable, just a small courtyard with two entrances. This July is the anniversary of Mao Dun's birth 1 10. The former residence was reopened after renovation. I walked into my former residence, and there stood a bust of Mr. Mao Dun in the front yard. The surrounding room is an exhibition of Mao Dun's life. The bedroom, living room and study in the backyard are also arranged as Mr. Wang was before his death. After liberation, Mao Dun lived in the dormitory of the Ministry of Culture at No.203 Dongsitou, adjacent to Zhou Yang and Yang Hansheng. He moved to Houyuan 'en Temple in 1974 and died in 198 1, where he spent his last seven years.

Out of Mao Dun's former residence, go east, and after a few doors, you will see a big yard, No.7 Yuan En Temple Hutong. This used to be the residence of the second son of the Qing prince in the Qing Dynasty. Architecture is a combination of Chinese and western styles, including quadrangles, western-style buildings and a big garden. There are western-style arched pavilions and fountains in the park, as well as stone carvings in Yuanmingyuan, which are also a combination of Chinese and western. The house has also changed owners several times. It was sold to the French in the Republic of China. After the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, it became Chiang Kai-shek's hangyuan, and Chiang Kai-shek lived here when he came to Beiping. After liberation, it has successively become the office of the Central North China Bureau, the Yugoslav Embassy and the Chinese People's Association for Friendship with Foreign Countries. Now it is a friendly hotel.

■ Juer Hutong, which is famous at home and abroad.

Ju 'er Hutong is an alley in the east of the northernmost part of Nanluoguxiang. It is said that he is well-known at home and abroad because the architect Wu presided over the renovation project of the dangerous house in Juer Hutong, and/kloc-0 was awarded the "Asian Architecture Gold Award" by the Asian Architecture Association in 1992 and/kloc-0 was awarded the "World Habitat Award" in 1993.

In the middle of the hutong, there is a small building with 2-3 floors in the north, surrounded by a small courtyard with black tiles and white walls, which has both the beauty of Jiangnan dwellings and the charm of old Beijing quadrangles and is in harmony with the surrounding architectural styles. This is the reconstructed new courtyard house of Juer Hutong. According to the urban planning theory of "organic renewal", Professor Wu believes that the old city reconstruction should retain good and historic buildings, repair and demolish dangerous buildings that can still be used, and gradually transition, which not only preserves the continuity of historical context, but also forms an organic overall environment. These new quadrangles have the dual characteristics of strong privacy of apartment buildings and strong sense of neighborhood of quadrangles. They are organically unified with the old hutong pattern, which protects the style of the ancient capital and is a successful exploration of the transformation of the old city of Beijing.

■ East exit of Juer Hutong, now No.3, No.5, No.7 and No.6 of Shoubi Hutong, was originally the residence of Rong Lu, governor of Zhili in Qing Dynasty.

The east exit of Juer Hutong, now No.3, No.5, No.7 and No.6 of Shoubi Hutong, was the residence of Rong Lu, governor of Zhili and minister of war in Qing Dynasty. The original house was large and divided into three parts, with western-style buildings in the west, gardens in the middle and Chinese quadrangles in the east. After liberation, part of this house was used as the Afghan embassy, and later it was divided into several parts and turned into staff quarters. The pattern has been destroyed and the protection situation is poor.

Nanluoguxiang Bar Street

Nanluoguxiang is a distinctive bar street in Beijing and the most well-protected quadrangle area in Beijing. The whole bar street is dominated by small bungalows in quadrangles, and red lanterns are hung high in front of the door. The decoration style returns to the traditional simplicity, which conforms to the atmosphere and style of quadrangles.

Unlike Sanlitun and Houhai, most of the bars here are quiet, harmonious and natural. They live in downtown but stay away from the hustle and bustle of downtown and are closer to life. The guests are mainly foreign tourists, "Star of Tomorrow" Chinese opera students and mature bar lovers. Guests can experience the atmosphere of old Beijing quadrangles here, stay away from the noise, enjoy physical and mental relaxation, or read books, or take computers to work overtime, or get together with friends, or even negotiate business.

It is worth mentioning that every bar in Nanluoguxiang provides free wireless Internet access. Bar prices are generally low, and the store also offers a variety of exquisite snacks, both western and Chinese. The boss and the waiter are very easygoing and homely.