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The symbolic function of national costume colors has evolved with the evolution of history. One of the important and inevitable trends is that the color of clothing is freed from the historical burden of animal instincts or totems, religions, and historical records and customs, and becomes a lining for beautifying people's lives and displaying national psychological characteristics. This is a kind of civilization and progress in the history of human development, because the further forward human beings develop, the spiritual connotation of aesthetics will become increasingly stronger, and the requirements for clothing colors will be higher.

The color beauty of clothing is a very important issue. Some scholars who study color have proposed seven rules of color matching: unity method, foil method, embellishment method, echo method, blocking method, buffer method, and connection method. Generally speaking, solemn and simple styles are often composed of deep colors, while light and bright styles are often composed of light series of colors. Through clever selection and matching, people can create a feeling similar to the beautiful melody in music through the transition between colors. This is the highest state of color use. In addition, the psychological effects of color also include: a sense of contraction and expansion. Generally speaking, black and dark colors have a sense of contraction, while white and light colors have a sense of expansion. When people see red, orange, and yellow, they often think of them. The same color of the sun, fire, etc. produces a sense of warmth, while colors such as cyan, indigo, and purple often remind people of sea water, the night sky, and produce a sense of coldness, etc. After long-term life practice, various ethnic groups have consciously or unconsciously utilized these functions of color, giving clothing colors their own personalities.

The costumes of many ethnic minority women are mostly made of colorful, red and green materials, which have strong ethnic characteristics. For example, the flower-waisted women's clothes and trousers of the "Niesu" branch of the Yi people in Ashan, Xinping, and Shiping counties in Yunnan like to use two or more contrasting colors of cloth to stitch together. The whole body is mainly red, with alternating red and black, mixed with Green, blue, white and other colors are bright and pleasing to the eye, and they are too beautiful to behold. The back is decorated with a rainbow band composed of five-color strips of cloth and embroidered with various patterns, which represents the sun's rays spraying around.

The colors of costumes of various ethnic groups reflect different style characteristics and give people different aesthetic feelings. The clothing of the Dulong people gives people a simple and rough impression; the costumes of the Miao, Yao, Buyi and other ethnic groups are fine in workmanship, colorful and full of decorative meaning. They mostly use contrasting colors such as yellow, red, blue, green and white. Weaving, embroidery, picking, dyeing and other crafts, the colors are bright and coordinated, the patterns are numerous and not disorderly, showing the unique artistic talent and aesthetic psychology of women, and becoming a powerful tool for all ethnic groups to express their aesthetic emotions and aesthetic ideals.

It can be predicted that with the development of ethnic minority societies, the colors of ethnic costumes as aesthetic symbols will have the following three characteristics:

1. Utilitarian and practical costume colors will move toward aesthetics. direction continues to advance. Due to the huge differences in the social development of ethnic minorities, the concept of "beauty" in many ethnic costumes is mainly derived from their own cultural concepts, that is, "goodness" and "truth" are beauty, and the aesthetics of the color itself The rules have not really come into play, and there is hope for a big breakthrough in the future.

2. The objective "beauty" expressed in the colors of national costumes is mostly instinctive and unconscious. With the deepening of color practice, people will have a further understanding and grasp of the nature and laws of color. They will be freed from instinct, make a leap in the use of color, and achieve true consciousness.

3. The colors of national costumes will gradually move from expressing group aesthetic consciousness to expressing individuality and freedom, which is a symbol of social equality, civilization, and prosperity.

In short, with the development of society, the aesthetic needs of social members originating from animal instincts are summoned and highlighted, and the laws of color aesthetics begin to play a role. This phenomenon of consciously adjusting the color of clothing based on aesthetic needs is very common in ethnic costumes. In order to add some color and beauty to their clothing, they follow certain color expression rules and regulations and create "meaningful forms" of clothing color.

The finishing touch of the art of ethnic costumes

Women of all ethnic groups in Yunnan are not only skilled craftsmen in spinning and weaving, but also experts in cross-stitch embroidery. They start by beautifying themselves and embroider beautiful patterns on hats, collars, cuffs, breast pockets, aprons, shoes and bags that best express decorative art, giving them beautiful meanings.

When you enter the special hall of ethnic and folk handicrafts of the Yunnan Museum of Ethnology, you will be greeted by this type of folk art that is not only practical, but also has appreciation value and beauty.

Embroidery pieces, known as the "facade" of national costume art, can be divided into embroidery pieces for simple use, such as handkerchiefs, square scarves, decorative embroidery pieces, etc., and embroidery pieces for accessories on clothing, such as cuffs, Collars, breast pockets, collar capes, etc. The embroidery pieces of different ethnic groups have their own characteristics.

Embroidered vest of Zhuang ethnic group. There are embroidered birds, butterflies, and flowers. The flower patterns are embroidered on white cloth, and the flower and bird patterns embroidered on silk are separated. The composition is symmetrical and extremely delicate. There are also appliqué lock-embroidered vests. Lock embroidery is an embroidery technique of the Zhuang, Yi and Bai ethnic groups in Yunnan. The pattern to be embroidered is cut out on the embroidery piece, and then silk threads of different colors are used to "lock" the edges of the pattern, creating a strong three-dimensional effect.

Lunan Yi ethnic group pattern-shaped large square scarf.

With the diagonal line as the center, use black thread to embroider five pattern areas. Each pattern area is symmetrical up, down, left and right. The first area on the edge is embroidered with people and dogs; the second area is embroidered with people and butterflies or bees; the third area is a tree pattern; the fourth area is a butterfly pattern; the fifth area is the central pattern, embroidered with black thread into a large flower. It has a floral shape and is embroidered with representative patterns and folk houses from the second to fourth districts. Each layer of pattern is embroidered with different colored threads. The overall composition is compact, strict, complex but not chaotic. It is a masterpiece among embroidery pieces.

Hats and hats are important parts of clothing. Each ethnic minority in Yunnan has its own traditional hats, among which children's hats are the most exciting. Children's hats not only come in various types and lifelike shapes, but also have various decoration techniques, exquisite patterns and profound meanings.

Honghe Yi Nationality Archway Hat. This is a common children's hat among the Yi people. The brim of the hat is decorated with a Buddha statue made of copper or aluminum. It looks like an archway and is meant to pray for blessings and ward off evil spirits. It expresses the mother's love for her child.

Kunming Han tiger head hat. The word "王" is embroidered on it, and there are archway-shaped lotus pods. The style is very similar to that of the Yi people.

Dai child hat. It is embroidered with five-color silk threads using techniques such as pan embroidery and hollow patchwork embroidery, making it appear luxurious and rich in style.

Shoe accessories. The Bai, Yi, Zhuang, Buyi, Mongolian, Pumi and Dai people all have the habit of wearing embroidered shoes. In the past, young girls had to wear bridal attire and embroidered shoes when they got married. They also had to wear embroidered shoes on major festivals and visits to relatives within a year after the marriage. Among the Bai people in Dali, many elderly women still like to wear embroidered shoes made by themselves. The shoes are often embroidered with the word "longevity" or auspicious patterns. They believe that wearing such embroidered shoes can lead to longevity and health. Children's shoes are mostly in the shape of animals, which blends with children's innocence and love for small animals, which is really cute. Among them, the more representative "Twelve Zodiac Shoes" apply China's unique zodiac signs to children's shoes, which is more folk-friendly.

Sachet. Also known as a purse, it is a traditional embroidery handicraft of Yunnan folk. It is also a token and decoration for young men and women to express their love. According to folk customs in Yunnan, wearing a sachet during the Dragon Boat Festival can pray for good luck and ward off evil spirits. There are many types of sachets, including animal-shaped monkey sachets, colorful horse sachets, butterfly sachets, hydrangeas, Bagua sachets, etc. The sachets are small and exquisite, with fine embroidery and easy to carry. Now they have become important tourist souvenirs.

Whether it is exquisite embroidery pieces, embroidered shoes of various shapes, or cute children's hats and shoes, small and exquisite sachets, etc., all are integrated with picking, tying, embroidering, pasting, sewing, buckling, locking, It combines various traditional techniques such as dyeing and dyeing, with rich and colorful themes and compositions, various textures and exquisite workmanship. It is the finishing touch in the treasure house of national costume art.

Bronzeware and Yunnan National Costumes

Yunnan has many ethnic groups and its costume culture has a long history and is extensive and profound. Although ancient historical materials do not have very detailed records of Yunnan’s national costumes, a large number of bronze vessels unearthed in places such as Jinning Shizhai Mountain and Jiangchuan Lijiashan, especially the hundreds of figures on the vessels, provide us with a textual research on ancient and modern Yunnan. A treasure trove of information on ethnic costumes. Among the costumes of more than 20 ethnic groups in Yunnan, more than 10 can find their origins in bronze images.

From these bronze images, we can see the clothing images of different ethnic groups and different identities. For example, the "war shell storage vessel" and "gilt prisoner offering buckle" depict the military uniforms of the ancient Dian people; the "Ji Tian Xing" and "Shang Cang" shell storage vessels depict the military uniforms of the Dian people. Farm clothes, sacrificial robes; in addition to the larger number of copper hangings, copper swords, copper staff heads, and copper buckles, the costumes of the characters are countless, either complicated or simple, with many types and styles. There are mainly the following types:

Plate crowns and hats. Three of the four-person ox-binding copper buckle ornaments unearthed from Shizhai Mountain in Jinning, and the four dancers in the eight-person music and dance copper buckle ornaments all wear a plate-shaped crown on their heads, which is similar in shape to a crown-shaped crown. , that is, the bun has protruding nipples and simple patterns. There is a belt in the middle of the board to tie the bun into one, and then tie it around the person's neck. The crown is a crown worn by senior officials of the Central Plains Dynasty. It not only has beads on the front and back, but also has patterns. The "crown-shaped crown" worn by the figures unearthed in Shizhai Mountain only has decorations but no beads, and the person wearing it is not a high-ranking official, so it cannot be called a crown-shaped crown. Among the ethnic minorities in modern Yunnan, some people still wear this kind of crown, which is called "plate crown" or "top plate". The branch of the Yao ethnic group who wears this kind of crown is called "top plate Yao". Some people also wear it in Tibetan areas. .

On the shell storage vessel unearthed from Shizhai Mountain in Jinning, there is a person carrying a bamboo hat during the sowing scene; the shepherd boy on the cowherd vessel cover is also carrying a bamboo hat. To this day, bamboo hats are still associated with people's lives day and night, and they have become diverse in shape and flavor. For example: the small bamboo hats of the Dai people in Dehong area of ??Yunnan are made of very thin bamboo strips and are small and exquisite. Xinping Huayao Dai's bamboo hat has a more unique shape. The brim is slightly rolled upward, giving it a feeling of being tilted up and about to fly. When worn, it is tilted high on the forehead, which is more unique.

Phire. Pei is widely used in Dian Kingdom, and almost everyone wears it regardless of whether they are male or female or of high or low status. Judging from the bronze images, most of the Dian Kingdom's drapes had patterns. In addition to geometric patterns, there were also animal patterns such as peacocks, snakes, and deer. It is both warm and a gorgeous decoration.

Cardigan.

This is a universal costume among the main ethnic groups in the Dian Kingdom, regardless of gender or status. Judging from the bronze images, all people with hair styles such as vertebrae and silver spindle buns wear this kind of clothing. It is characterized by double-breasted, collarless, knee-length clothing, short and narrow sleeves, some only reaching the elbow. It is worn unbuttoned and tied with a belt, and has edges on both sides of the placket. This ancient style does not pay much attention to the beauty of body shape and lines, but uses various embroidery decorations to show its unique beauty. As women's clothing, it is still popular among Tibetan, Miao, Yao, Yi, Hani, Shui, Brown, Achang, Wa, Deang, Jino, Jingpo and other ethnic groups.

Pants and leggings. It can be seen from the numerous bronze images that only a few residents of the ancient Dian Kingdom wore shorts on special occasions. For example, among the male and female umbrella-holding figurines unearthed from Shizhai Mountain and Lijiashan Mountain, you can see the shorts exposed from their tops in their squatting or kneeling postures. In most cases, both men and women only wear a top that reaches between the thighs and knees. Until modern times, many ethnic minority women in Yunnan still have the habit of wearing skirts without pants.

Since most residents of Dian do not have the habit of wearing pants, except for long clothes and a small amount of shorts (or skirts) covering part of the body, the shins are always exposed. Therefore, some workers in order to avoid thorns If he stabbed his calf, he would use leg wraps to protect him. This custom is still common among modern nations.

Hairstyle. Today, Dai women tie their hair into a bun, wear tube skirts, short-sleeved shirts, and decorate their teeth with gold and silver as their main clothing features. This is also an ancient tradition. The hair tied into a bun can be clearly seen in the bronze images unearthed from Shizhai Mountain. For example, the four-person music and dance figurines are tied up in a high bun. The bundling method of their hair is similar to the high bun of Huayao Dai women in Yuanjiang and Xinping County today. The bundling method is basically the same.

Embroidery. The images of the bronze figures are very delicate and realistic, and the costumes of the musical and dancing figurines are particularly fancy. Some of them are densely covered with patterns, such as stripes, geometric patterns, water ripples, grass and water patterns, cloud-like patterns, feather-like patterns, bird-like patterns and other patterns. on human images. The difference in patterns seems to indicate the difference in status or occupation. To this day, the costumes of ethnic minorities in Yunnan still inherit the exquisiteness of the ancient Dian Kingdom's "dying, collection, culture and embroidery", with more diverse styles and more colorful colors.

Chats the Yunnan national minority clothing color

The national clothing color symbolic function, evolves along with the historical evolution. Is important also is the inevitable tendency, is the clothing color driven instinct or the totem, the religion as well as records Shi Shisu under the historical heavy burden to extricate, becomes the people to beautify the life, the demonstration nationality psychology characteristic lining decoration. This is in the human history one kind of civilization and the progress, because the humanity jumps over move forward, the esthetic mental connotation can strengthen day after day, is higher to the clothing color request.

Clothing color America is a very important question. Some research colors scholars' once proposed matches colors seven principles: The unification method, serves as contrast the law, the spot 法, echoes the law, the piecemeal law, the cushion law, the title connection. Generally said that, grave, simple style, often is constitutes by the depth color , but lively, bright style often by tinted series color constitution. The people pass through the ingenious choice, match, produces one kind through between the color and the color transition to be similar in the music the exquisite melody feeling, this is with the color side high boundary. In addition, the color psychological process also includes: The contraction feeling and the inflation feeling, generally said that, the black, the deep color have the contraction feeling, but the white, the tint have the inflation feeling; When the people saw when red, orange, yellow, the regular meeting associates has the similar color the sun, the flame and so on has warm the feeling, but blue, blue, purple and so on the color often causes the person to associate the sea water, the nighttime sky produces the cold feeling, and so on. Various nationalities passed through the long-term life practice, determination or not on own initiative have used color these functions, caused the clothing color to have respective individuality.

Many national minorities women's clothing mostly uses the color variegated, the loud colors dress material makes, has the rich national characteristics. If the Yunnan Oshan, Sinping, Shiping County's Yi nationality "the Nie Soviet" collateral series' colored waist woman clothing , happy becomes with contrast intense two kind of above color cloth splicing, whole body by red primarily, reddish black alternates with, by green, blue, white isochromatic, bright is mixed good-looking, too beautiful to behold. The back decorated with five colors striped cloth synthesis and embroiders each kind of pattern design the rainbow belt, indicated the solar ray to all around sprays.

Various national clothing color manifests the different style characteristic, for person by different esthetic feeling. Drung nationality's clothing gives the person by the simple rough impression; Seedling, precious, national clothing and so on Puyi, works fine, color gorgeous, extremely rich decoration meaning, many by yellow, red, blue, green, waits in vain to contrast the intense color, the utilization of weaves, embroiders, selects, dyes and so on the craft, the color gorgeous and coordinated, attempts the grain to be many does not reveal the disorder, demonstrated the women's unique art talent and its the esthetic psychology, become various nationalities to express the esthetic emotion and the esthetic ideal powerful tool.

May foresee, along with the national minority society's development, the national clothing color took the esthetic mark will appear following three characteristics:

1st , the utility, the practical clothing color will be approaching the esthetic direction. Because national minority's society develops has the huge difference, in many national clothings about "beautiful" the idea mainly or extends from its own cultural idea, namely "is friendly ", "really" is America, the color itself esthetic rule certainly untrue display function, will hope to have the big breakthrough from now on.

2nd, the national clothing color in on objective displays "beautifully" are many is the instinct, unconscious. Along with color practice thorough, the people will have the further understanding and the assurance to the color essence and the rule, they will extricate from the instinct, will complete a time of leap in the color use, will achieve in the true significance determination.

3rd, the national clothing color also gradually will move towards the performance individuality, the performance freedom from the performance community esthetic consciousness, this will be the social equality, the civilized, the prosperity symbol.

In brief, along with society's development, the origin is esthetic to the animal instinct members of different social classes needs to summon but highlights comes out, the color esthetic rule starts to play the role. This kind but on own initiative adjusts the clothing color based on the esthetic need the phenomenon, in the national clothing is very common. They in order to increase some colors on own clothing, increases several minute America, follows the certain color performance rule and the principle , creates clothing color this kind "to have meaning the form".

National clothing art adds the finishing touch work

The cloud Namhkok nationality woman not only is the skilled craftsman which reels thread to weave cotton cloth, also is the embroidery embroidery expert. They from beautify own start, in most can display the decoration art the hat, the collar, the sleeve cuff, the chest pocket, the girdle, the shoes and the satchel and so on embroiders the beautiful design, entrusts with the happy meaning.

Enters the Yunnan nationality museum nationality folk handicrafts topic hall, this kind not only has the usability, moreover has the appreciation value and the esthetic sense folk artware, can caress the face.

Is called the national clothing art "the facade" is embroidered the piece, may divide into the pure use to embroider, like the handkerchief, the hand towel, the decoration embroider and so on, matches the decoration with the clothing on to embroider the piece like sleeve cuff, the collar, the chest pocket, the collar throws over and so on. The different nationality embroiders the piece, also each characteristic.

The Zhuang nationality vest embroiders the piece. Also has embroiders the bird, the butterfly, the flowers and plants, embroiders the flowers and plants design by the white ornamental pathches, embroiders the silk the flower-and-bird design to separate, composition symmetrical, is extremely fine; Also has the applique lock to embroider the vest. The lock embroiders the craft is Yunnan is strong, Yi, waits in vain the race to embroider the flowered one technique, first in embroiders the design which on cuts must embroider, then uses the different color the silk thread "the lock" the design edge, the stereoscopic effect greatly strengthened.

South road Yi nationality embroidery big hand towel. Take the opposite angle line as the center, embroiders five designs areas with the heavy line, about each design area bilateral symmetry. Most side an area embroiders has the character, the dog; The second area embroiders some person and the butterfly or the honeybee; The third area is the trees design; The fourth area is the butterfly design ; The fifth area is the central design, to the heavy line embroiders a big flowers and plants modeling, in separate embroiders has two to four areas representative designs and the common people residence. Each design all embroiders by the different streak, the overall composition compact , is strict, numerous but is not chaotic, is embroiders a center the high-quality goods.

The hat decoration, the hat are the clothing important constituent. The cloud Namhkok national minority all has the oneself tradition characteristic the hat, You Yitong the hat is most splendid. Virgin hat not only type many, modeling lifelike, moreover decoration technique diverse, plays the part of the grain finely, the implication is profound.

Red River Yi nationality memorial arch hat. This is the Yi nationality common child hat, the hat along makes the image of Buddha decorated by the copper or the aluminum, the shape with the memorial arch, has prays avoids evil influences meaning, is reposing the mother to child's love .

Kunming Han Nationality noble appearance hat. On embroiders has "the king" the character, and has the memorial arch seed case of lotus flower, in the style and the Yi nationality is extremely similar.

Dai national minority Tong Mao. Embroiders with the plate, hollows out spells embroiders and so on the technique, embroiders the system by the silk thread to become, in the style appears magnificently and expensively is splendid.

Shoes decoration. Pai nationality, the Yi nationality, Zhuang nationality, Buyi national minority, the Mongolian nationality, Pumi and the Dai national minority and so on all has puts on embroiders the embroidered shoes the custom. In the past the young girl married when got married, must wear the bride to install the foot to put on embroiders the embroidered shoes, married in the latter year the significant holiday and recognizes situation and so on relative also must put on embroiders the embroidered shoes. In Dali's Pai nationality folk, until now many old ages women still liked putting on oneself sew embroider embroider the embroidered shoes, on the shoes embroider have "are long-lived" the character or the propitious design, they thought put on such embroiders the embroidered shoes to be able the longevity health. Tong Xieduo take the animal as the modeling, naive is lovable with the child, likes micro-organism's virgin interest merging into one organic whole, really teases to like. Comparison has "the Chinese zodiac shoes" representatively, utilizes the Chinese unique animal representation of a birth year the virgin shoes to come up, has the folk appeal.

香包. Also has the name purse, is the Yunnan folk traditional embroidery handicraft, also is the youth men and women expresses the love the faith token and the ornament. In the Yunnan folk custom, Dragon Boat Festival wears sachet, may pray lucky avoids evil influences. the type of sachet are very many, has the animal modeling the monkey string sachet, the color horse sachet, has the butterfly sachet, embroiders the ball, the Eight Diagrams sachet and so on. sachet small and exquisite, embroiders the labor to be fine, is advantageous for carries, now has become the important traveling souvenir. < /p>

No matter is fine embroiders the piece, the construction diversely embroiders the embroidered shoes, or young interest lovable Tong Maotong shoes, small and exquisite sachets and so on, all the collection selects, grips, embroiders, pastes, the seam, the buckle, locks, dyes and so on the many kinds of traditional techniques to a body, the theme and the composition is richly colorful, quality of material many and varied, works elegantly, is in the national clothing art treasure house adds the finishing touch work.

Bronzeware and Yunnan nationality clothing

Yunnan nationality multitudinous, the clothing culture is well-established, broad and profound. Although the ancient times historical data was not very detailed to the Yunnan nationality clothing record, but Jinning Shi Zhaishan, Jiangchuan Li Jiashan such as places unearthed large quantities of bronzewares, in particular on utensil hundreds of characters picture, has provided a textual ancient criticism and modern Yunnan nationality clothing material treasure house for us. In the Yunnan existing more than 20 nationalities' clothing, some more than 10 can find its source and course in the bronzeware picture.

From these bronze pictures, we as worthy of looking at as different national, different sta