Zagana, the secret place of Gannan, is a charming hybrid.

Zhagana Gannan Tibetan land in Diebu County.

An article commented that it was a "secret place blocked by stone gates": to go to Zhaga, you need to go through three stone gates, and then you will be suddenly enlightened. Peaks go straight into the sky, villages and temples are surrounded by mountains and waters, and houses in the fields are strewn at random, which is easy to remind people of similar scenes described in Peach Blossom Garden.

When we were carrying heavy equipment, stepping on the mud and accompanied by snow, we finally saw the real Zagana, and we had a particularly strong empathy for all the beautiful descriptions about it.

It's a heavenly secret! It's all because the pictures related to Zagana on the Internet are so mediocre that my original mood of not expecting much from the scenery is full of surprises.

Since it is a secret field, it is usually inaccessible and little known.

According to the book, the people in the Peach Blossom Garden were originally trying to avoid the Qin chaos and did not return, so they were isolated from outsiders. Later generations did not know that there were Han people, regardless of Wei and Jin Dynasties. In contrast, the history of human activities in Zagana is much longer. Even as early as 3000 years ago, the germination of animal husbandry civilization appeared here. Chinese ancestors were self-sufficient and thrived in this godsend land with little contact with the outside world.

Nowadays, the road network extends in all directions, and the natural barrier becomes a thoroughfare. It's only eight hours' drive from Lanzhou to Zhaga, and the rocks that once separated Zhaga from the outside world have been penetrated one by one. It is no longer difficult to visit this hidden collector village called "Stone Box".

However, Zhagana Scenic Area is still a rather unpopular tourist destination, so even during the 1 1 month Golden Week, there is no need to worry about tourists. This is because the scenic spot is in a semi-developed state. Tickets are only 10 yuan, and supporting facilities are very limited. If tourists want to see more scenic spots, they must go deep into the mountains or ride horses, which is expensive. Either walk, the road is blocked and long.

"The road is long and Xiu Yuan is awkward, and it will be dead." After trekking more than 60 kilometers in three days, we just crossed from the other side of the mountain, sitting lazily in the field at the entrance of the scenic spot, basking in the sun with peace of mind and recovering almost exhausted vitality.

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The deeper you know about Zagana, the more you find it different.

The Dieshan where Zhagana is located is adjacent to Minshan Mountain in the south and Qinling Mountain in the east. Adjacent to Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Loess Plateau and Sichuan Basin. It is not only at the edge of the dividing line between the first and second topographic steps, but also hand in hand with the residual vein of the western extension of Qinling Mountain to distinguish the northwest from the southwest. Its unique geographical location has created its tolerant customs.

The beautiful scenery of China is mostly distributed on the boundary of three terrain steps, such as the Keleqing Canyon in Kunlun Mountain, the craggy rock landform in Taihang Mountain and the primeval forest of Aershan in Daxing 'anling. In the special issue of Walking in China, National Geographic magazine of China put forward the national trail planning of "Ridge Line". According to this concept, Minshan-Daxueshan-Hengduan Mountain is impressively listed among the seven hiking areas of "Ridge Line". More than 80 years ago, the Central Red Army passed through here, "climbed the snow-capped mountains and crossed the grassland", fought fiercely, and then arrived in northern Shaanxi through southern Gansu, creating.

In 20 17, the people spontaneously organized and completed the Hengduan Tianlu National Trail Survey Line, which started from Dali, Yunnan in the south and cooperated with Gansu in the north, with a total length of 2,230 kilometers, connecting many famous hiking routes and landscapes in Yunnan, Sichuan and Gansu provinces in series like beads, such as Yulong Snow Mountain, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Haba Snow Mountain, Luoke Line, Gongga Line and Yala Snow Mountain. Zagana is undoubtedly the magnificent last chapter of this epic route.

According to the geographical concept of large section, Gannan alpine grassland is regarded as a part of the northern grassland belt with large section, adjacent to Zoige wetland grassland in northwest Sichuan, and the isomorphism of * * * has become a relatively approachable front hall in Hengduan Mountain area. There are abundant aquatic plants here, which are suitable for animal husbandry. To the south, it gradually transitions to a canyon, where agriculture and animal husbandry develop together. From north to south, many ancient roads converge vertically and horizontally. It has always been a crossroads where nomadic culture in the north, farming culture in the Central Plains and Tibetan Buddhism meet and merge. The "Diebu Zhaga Agriculture, Forestry and Animal Husbandry Complex System", which has been completely preserved so far, was selected as the first batch of important agricultural cultural heritage in China, which perfectly confirmed this point.

Therefore, anyone who wants to deeply feel the charm of Hengduan Mountains should not miss Zhaga.

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According to Zhang Ge, the team leader Swallow, despite the difficult psychological preparation before coming, the crossing difficulty of Zhaga greatly exceeded expectations, which made us realize how skillfully the word "overlap" was used in Dieshan.

I have traveled one journey after another and climbed one mountain after another. We often worry about the muddy and soft land under our feet, enjoy the unexpected scenery of Shan Ye and discuss the similarities and differences between this route and the Lok Line. I also stopped in a green highland barley field on the alpine meadow, asked the herdsmen for directions and complained about our unreliable grooms and guides.

Although the groom we hired was Tibetan, he was a philistine and led us astray in the name of cutting corners. Thanks to the track of Yanzi's song, we realize that he has not entered the mountain for many years and is leading us with a vague impression. This is ridiculous. Our physical condition is on the verge of collapse every day, and we can't make any mistakes at all.

The starting point of hiking is the triangle stone straight ditch in Zhuonimuer town. Road signs actually use Chinese, English and Tibetan to represent place names. The construction vehicles Lenovo encountered on the road gave people the impression that the local government was trying to save the tourism economy. The altitude here is close to 3000 meters, and the surrounding hillside is lush with trees. There are two or three houses and fields in the ditch, and several Tibetan pigs are scattered on the meadow, fat and black, leisurely foraging. Everything is full of vitality, peace and harmony. Our intrusion, like a stone thrown into a deep pool, can't arouse any ripples except the curiosity of collectors and girls across the fence.

The longer we go into the mountains, the more gloomy the weather becomes. Alpine areas have their own microclimate, lush vegetation preserves rich water vapor, and they are energetic thugs. They don't need too much sunshine, so they can't wait to say goodbye to the soil, streams, shade and Woods, rise up, pile up into clouds, press on the top of the mountain, and wait for an opportunity to attack. It is normal to encounter precipitation after walking in such a mountainous area for a long time. In the worst case, strong winds are wrapped in heavy rain, which is easy to induce temperature loss and endanger life.

But when precipitation comes in the form of light snow, it can add interest and heroism to passers-by. Almost every day, Dashan does not hesitate to inspire us in this way. Snow grains are always caught off guard, rustling on the jacket, like vigilant guards fighting back against intruders, but they can't hide the embarrassment of weak firepower, barely make some noise, and then quietly recede.

Perhaps it is unwilling to give up, and the snowfall that has been entangled in strength is back. This time, it has been raging and shrouded in the fields. In a blink of an eye, everything turned white. Nature is enough to scare us to pack up our leisure, carefully arrange our protective equipment and leave quickly.

The best weather appeared on the first day after crossing the "Zhanjiaye" mountain pass (3,726 meters), which was the first mountain pass we captured. There is a gravel boulder opposite the pass, which seems to grow from the grass and stab the sky with unruly wildness. At that time, the sky was blue and the clouds were light, the sun was scorching, and snowflakes were falling on the grassland. We lay on the grass side by side, watching the intersection of mountains in the distance, enjoying the rare comfort, thinking about the 18 pass that needs to be crossed all the way, and the journey has just begun.

Due to time, the standard four-day hiking route has been compressed into three days, with an average of at least 20 kilometers a day and a cumulative climb of more than a thousand meters, which is definitely a big test for everyone. Fortunately, the whole process is basically on the grass, and the road that herders have traveled during the transition is clearly identifiable. Although it is quite annoying because of muddy foot binding, it is more worry-free to walk than the route covered with gravel gullies, and the landscape along the way is rich and changeable, which is far beyond expectations.

On the route of Gannan, the typical characteristics of Qinling and western Sichuan are integrated. Plateau and mountains are accompanied by wetlands and grasslands, and pastures and pastoral areas complement each other. I admire the nature of nature. Should be a skilled bartender, picking things, looking for materials in the north and south, collecting different styles from all over China, throwing them around, and finally blending them into a bottle of wine called Zhazana, which fascinated all the visitors.

For us, because of the hard pursuit, we cherish this colleague more and remember what we have seen and gained more.