After watching so many ancient films, I have a question...

What the poster said is really interesting. Official boots must be different from those worn by ordinary people, and they should be regulated. The TV series is pure nonsense. There is no need to take it seriously. I looked for relevant information. , have a general understanding. Share below.

Ancient shoes are also very distinctive. Judging from documentary records, the earliest shoes, no matter what material they were made of, were collectively called "妦". Yi is the general name of footwear. In the Zhou Dynasty, there was a position of "妦人", which was subordinate to the Heavenly Official and was responsible for all kinds of shoes used by the king and queen. As recorded in "Book of Rites of the Zhou · Tianguan": "The clothes worn by the king and his queen are red hoe, black hoe, red hoe, yellow hoe, Qingju, plain hoe and Ge hoe." Also in "Book of Rites· "Quli" records: "There are two people outside. If you hear words, you will come in. If you don't hear words, you will not come in. ... If you don't go up to the hall, you will not dare to stand on the steps, so you will kneel down and lift it up." "This involves some etiquette and customs of wearing shoes in ancient times:

Before the appearance of furniture such as tables and chairs, people mostly adopted a lifestyle of sitting on the floor. This mat was both a floor mat and a seat. At night, It has become a sleeping mat again. In order to keep the mat clean and tidy, you must take off your clothes when entering the room

and put them outside the door. According to the rules at that time, when you see two pairs of cunts at the door, it means that there are two people in the room. In order to show respect for others, you can only enter when you hear the people inside speaking loudly; enter< /p>

Take off your underwear before leaving and put it under the stone steps at the door; when you come out and put it on again, you must squat and kneel down. The "妦" mentioned here is a general name for shoes. Therefore, Kong Yingda of the Tang Dynasty emphasized in "Mao Shi Zhengyi": "妦人 concurrently"

The person who controls Wei and Xi is \'妦\', which is a common name.\'"

< p>After the Warring States Period, the word "Lu" replaced "妦" and became the general name for shoes. "Han Feizi. Wai Chu Shuo": "If the people of Zheng want to put their feet on the ground, they should first hold their feet and then put them on their feet." "Hanshu Biography of Zheng Chong" records: Zheng Chong was mourned

Emperor When he was promoted to a servant of Shangshu, whenever Zheng Chong came to see him wearing his leather shoes, he would laugh and say: "I know the sound of Zheng Shangshu's shoes." The "shoes" here are the general name for shoes. Therefore, Yang Xiong said in his book "Dialect": "山, 屦,

thick, is a shoe. The suburbs of Xu Gen are called Ru, from Guan to the west are called Wei, and those with wood in the middle are called Ru. The word "舄" is also the general term for "還". "

Around the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the word "shoe", which originally referred to "leather shoes", replaced "還". The word became a general name for various shoes. "Jijiupian" by Youshi of the Han Dynasty: "Lu Xie (Feng + Shi) is rough and poor." Tang Yanshi

An ancient note: "Xie is today's shoe." Cao Tingdong of the Qing Dynasty wrote in "Essays on Health Preservation" "" also said in the book: "Shoes are shoes,... Today they are generally called shoes." This term has been continued to this day, so there are cloth shoes, leather shoes, overshoes, travel shoes

etc. name.

Like clothes, ancient shoes were also bound by rituals. Among all kinds of shoes, the most expensive shoes are called "Xi".

Xi is a kind of shoe worn by ancient kings, concubines, ministers and officials during salutes. Usually made of kudzu or leather as the surface, kudzu is used in summer and leather in winter. kudzu is a cloth spun from kudzu fiber. Because of its strong texture, it is used to make shoes. Before production, like leather, it is dyed into various prescribed colors.

According to Zhou Rites, the ponchos worn by kings, concubines, ministers and officials must be of different colors on different occasions, and must match the crowns and robes worn by the wearers.

The colors used by kings and princes include three grades: red, white, and black, with red being the best. The colors used by queens and wives include black, green, and red, with black being the best. That is to say, on the most solemn sacrificial occasions, the emperor wore a crown

on his body and a red jacket under his feet; while on the same occasion, the queen accompanied the king to sacrifice, wearing a jacket and a red jacket under her feet. shoe. Therefore, Zheng Xuan said in the annotation of "Zhou Li·Tianguan·Ji Ren": "There are nine kinds of Wangji's robes, and there are three kinds of 舄:

The red 舄 is the best, and the crown robe is the best; "Poetry" It says: "The prince of Xihan wears a red fan." The princes have the same clothes as the king. The queen has six auspicious clothes. Green jacket, red jacket

" Tang Jia Gongyan further researched and said: The king and the princes wear their own jackets with Wei Bian and Pi Bian, and the black jackets with crowns and clothes; the queen wears Xuan jackets with jackets. For clothes, the green boat is matched with the shao Zhai, and the red boat is matched with the Que Zhai. In the middle of the head of the boat, there is also a "絇" made of silk fabrics of the same color. A small hole is left at each end of the 絇 to pass through the rope. After wearing it, tie the rope< /p>

Tighten it to avoid slipping. It is said that in addition to the practical purpose of placing a piece of clothing on the head of a boat, it also has the intention of restraining the wearer, so as to warn the wearer to be cautious and to follow the right path and not to go astray. Zheng Xuan said in his annotation of "Zhou Li": "絇

It is called restraint, and it is worn on the head of the crotch to act as a precept. This is what it means.

As for the future, Adults usually have no hair on their heads. As the "Book of Rites·Yamazao" says: "If a boy does not wear fur or silk, he will not wear clothes." According to the explanation in the book "Yunlu Manchao" by Zhao Yanwei of the Song Dynasty: "The clothes have hair." , so when you are given warnings, if the boy is not

uneasy, he will not be able to take warnings. "Because children are underage, they do not need to be restrained like adults. In addition, a thin round strip made of ribbon is added at the connection between the upper and the sole, which is called "綶".

There are names such as "Red Ribbon" and "Huang Ribbon" in "Zhou

Li Tianguan". Zheng Xuan's annotation quoted Zheng Sinong's words: "Red Ribbon and Huang Ribbon have red and yellow silk as the lower edge." "The purpose of applying piping on the shoes is to increase the fastness of the shoes, especially materials such as Gebu, which have a relatively loose structure. If this piping is not used and is directly sewn to the soles, the firmness will be The degree will be greatly reduced. To this day, people still use this piping when making cloth shoes and leather shoes, but few people know that this piping existed 3,000 years ago. Although 綶 only occupies a small position in footwear, it was still restricted by etiquette in ancient times. According to the Zhou Dynasty system, the color of 綶 must be determined by the etiquette, and it must also match the wearer's body

The crown and uniform should match, otherwise it would be rude. In addition, there is also a rolling strip on the shoe mouth, which is called "Pure".

The difference between a pair of shoes and ordinary shoes is mainly in the sole. Ordinary shoe soles are mostly single-layer, while the soles of a pair of shoes are made of two layers, with the upper layer made of cloth and the lower layer made of wood. Bottoming up. This practice is for practical purposes, because

Shoes like this are mainly used for sacrifices and court gatherings. The ancient sacrifices were complicated in form, especially the sacrifices and rituals

It is very complicated, and the worshipers need to stand for a long time. The wooden soles are installed under the shoes to prevent the wearers from getting the soles of their shoes wet by standing for too long. This is even more difficult for some "suburban festivals" where the altar is located in the suburbs. as appropriate. Liu

Xi's "Shi Ming·Shi Yi" said: "Lu is a rite, and it is a ritual to decorate the feet." The next part is called a 舄. , so the wood is restored underneath, making it dry and waxy. "That's what it's like.

The appearance of Xi was around the Shang and Zhou dynasties. There are many records about Xi in the Book of Songs, such as "Binfeng·Langba": "Gongsun Shuofu, red Xi several times." "Xiaoya Che Gong": "Red Fu and Golden Horses, together with Yi." This was in line with the dress system at that time.

After the Warring States Period, the system was lost for a time, but was restored again during the Han and Wei dynasties. "Book of the Later Han Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" records: "Xian Zong then achieved great success, first wore a crown, clothes and articles, and a red ponytail to worship the heaven and earth." "Three Kingdoms·Wei"·Book·Qi Wangfang Biography ": "In the fourth month of Xia Gengxu, the general Sima Wen was given the robe of Gunmian and a red horse as a deputy." It can be seen that while the use of Gunmian as a sacrifice was restored in the Han and Wei dynasties, the traditional bureau system was also restored. Today, from the Han paintings at Wu's Temple in Jiaxiang, Shandong

you can see the figures of people wearing high-soled pontoons and saluting. The actual high-soled ponchos from this period have also been unearthed in Korea's Lelang Hanji. It's just that there is no decoration on the head of the boat.

The Jin and Six Dynasties followed the ancient system, and the ceremonial shoes were still used. There are a lot of records in history books. In the Northern Dynasties, there were some small changes, mainly the use of leather soles instead of wooden soles. Because leather boots were particularly popular at that time, people were inspired by the soles of leather boots and felt that they were better than the original ones. A wooden base is more practical. However, in the Sui Dynasty, wooden bases were restored to comply with the so-called "dry wax principle" in ancient times. This was purely out of respect for ancient production. "Book of Sui · Etiquette": "Xi... In modern times, it may be made of heavy skin without adding wood, which loses the meaning of dry wax. Today, the principle of dry wax is adopted, and the bottom is heavy with wood. ... Of all things, only hats and utensils are worn, and shoes are used for all kinds of clothes. "The utensils are the court uniforms.

It can be seen that in the Sui Dynasty, the robes were still used for court sacrifices.

Since the Tang Dynasty, all officials have abandoned their boots and used boots in their court uniforms. "Old Book of Tang·Biography of Wei Bin" records: "(Wei) Bin has a strong nature. Every time he meets in court, he does not dare to leave his standing position and laugh. When he tastes the heavy snow in the court, he shakes his train and stands up again. Bin does not move, and the snow even comes. Boots,

It is not disrespectful. "This is an example of officials wearing boots to go to court. However, when offering sacrifices, you still have to wear a jacket instead of boots. It can also be seen from books such as "Tongdian" compiled by Du You of the Tang Dynasty that the emperors and courtiers of the Tang Dynasty still wore "red jackets" on the most solemn sacrificial occasions, while the concubines who accompanied the sacrifices wore "green jackets" , slightly different from the ancient system.

The Song Dynasty followed the Tang system, wearing harpoons for sacrifices and boots for court. At the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, the system was once changed: the sacrificial vessels were worn and the court shoes were worn. Soon the bootmaking was resumed. For example, "History of the Song Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" records: "Boots, in the early Song Dynasty, the old system was followed, and boots were used for shoes in the court. Zhenghe changed the etiquette system and changed boots to shoes. Zhongxing still used them. In the seventh year of Qiandao, they were restored. Boots were used instead. "However, the sacrificial shoes are still used and have not changed. "Tokyo Menghua Lu" records the emperor's "driving to the suburban altar to salute" in detail. It states that when the emperor arrived at the sacrificial site, he "changed his sacrificial clothes: Pingtian Guan Twenty-four, Qinggun" Long Fu, Zhong Dan, Zhu Xi. "Zhu Xi is Chi Xi.

The Liao, Jin and later Yuan dynasties, which coexisted with the Song Dynasty, also used Xi as sacrificial shoes. The shape of the pail in the Yuan Dynasty was exquisite. In addition to retaining the original characteristics, jade ornaments were added to the head of the pail and patterns were decorated on the sides of the pail. There are records of this in "History of the Yuan Dynasty". Due to the age, of course the actual objects of this kind of sacrificial shoes cannot be seen now, but they are still reflected in the paintings of the time. For example, the image of the Emperor of Heaven painted on the Yuan Dynasty murals in the Sanqing Hall of Yongle Palace in Shanxi has feet.

Wear these shoes. In the Ming Dynasty, it was not only used for sacrifices, but also for court meetings. And the colors are used to distinguish the uses.

For example, "History of the Ming Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" records that the emperor wore suburban sacrifices, animal sacrifices, weddings of the crown prince and other crown princes, drunken precepts, etc., and wore the crown of heaven, with his own socks and red shoes; When sending imperial edicts, sending incense, entering the outside world, paying tribute from all barbarians, foreign officials making pilgrimages, and strategists passing on the news, they wear leather clothes and black socks. The queen wears green stockings and a green jacket, which are decorated with gold, when she receives the royal title, visits the temple, and attends court meetings.

After entering the Qing Dynasty, all emperors and officials, concubines and concubines wore boots during sacrifices and court gatherings, and the system was abolished.

Xi is a shoe used by ancient nobles for worship. The common people did not participate in court meetings, so of course they did not have to wear court shoes; but there were still sacrificial activities, but the rituals were not as complicated as those of noble men and women, and the salutes did not take that long, so the system of shoes was relatively simple.

Among the sacrificial shoes worn by the people, there is a special style of shoe called "锔下", and some also call it "wanxia". Its shape is somewhat similar to that of a spear, except that the sole is thinner than that of a spear. It was popular in the Han Dynasty and was mostly used by women. Han Yang

Xiong's "Dialect": "Those with wood in the middle are called Fu Xi. From the pass to the east, those who return to the pond are called Yu Xia." Liu Xi's "Shi Ming Shi Yi": "The lower body is like a boat. The lower body is late and dangerous. If a woman is short, she can wear it and worship it." Ordinary people with surnames perform sacrifices in their own ancestral halls or family temples, and wear sacrificial shoes. Similar to those used for weddings, hairpins, banquets and other occasions, there are no special sacrificial shoes.