Walking in the clouds of time in the depths of Qilian Mountain

"If you don't look at the snow in Qilian Mountain, you mistakenly think that Zhangye is south of the Yangtze River." This is the best interpretation of Zhang Ye. Qilian Mountain stands in the south of Zhangye, like a wall of Hexi Corridor rammed by indigo naturalis, stretching across the sky.

In hot summer, the fields are green. At the top of Qilian Mountain, the snow-capped peaks that don't melt all the year round hang like jade pots under the crown of Wei Lan. From a distance, it's a fantastic mess.

Clouds like summer after rain best. The destroyer Snow Wind blew from the top of the mountain. It's like turning on the air conditioner in Zhangye city. The cool breeze is blowing gently, which makes people relaxed and happy. It's very comfortable, so I don't want to live in the villa in Chengde.

Tang poetry said: "It's warm on the snow line, and the towns in the valley are getting colder and colder." After the rain in spring and autumn, when Qilian Mountain was bright, the cold in Zhangye City doubled, and it was a little frozen in the morning and evening.

? Qilian Mountain used to be the mountain of Xiongnu. "Qilian" means heaven in Xiongnu language. Qilian Mountain is the Tianshan Mountain of Xiongnu. Two thousand years ago, Huns lived in the mountains.

Today's Huns have become legends, and they are no longer brothers. On the vast Qilian grassland, they left, got drunk and sang. Young Huo Qubing made them disappear in the long river of history forever. Only a short elegy, "Qilian Mountain lost me, and my six animals were unhappy ...", drifted faintly in the Changfeng of Qilian Mountain.

The eternal Qilian Xuefeng, which stands on the top of the mountain, makes the clouds stare and imagine countless times and want to walk into its arms and appreciate its mysterious beauty.

Yun Ke is always busy with family, ideals and various reasons. Busy in the neon and noise of the city; Busy with relationships and vanity fair. I have no time to care about my inner desire, forgetting that the world is so big and the cloud wants to see it.

It was not until the summer of 2000 that Yun drove through the Biandukou Grand Canyon from Hexi Corridor and arrived in Ebo Town, Qinghai Province, that he first witnessed the true face of Qilian Mountain carefully. The beautiful scenery along the way, what I saw and heard, what I thought and what I thought, and the clouds have all been recorded in "Summer at the Ferry by Clouds".

On August 2 1 last year, there were ten days before beginning of autumn, and YY's holiday also entered the countdown. The Yun family of three, with a little sheepdog, once again came to Horseshoe Temple, a Buddhist resort at the northern foot of Qilian Mountain, and visited King Gelsall Hall, a Tibetan hero hidden in the belly of a hill not far from Horseshoe Temple.

Near dusk, driving to Jinta Temple deeper in Qilian Mountain is another opportunity to appreciate the beautiful charm of this holy mountain. The sky was mild and sunny that day. Yun's car is driving on the winding mountain road.

Through the window, the distance is continuous, and the Qilian Mountain with suitable shade is endless; On the green grass nearby, flocks of cattle and sheep are like falling clouds. Forest snow-capped mountains, canyon cliffs, winding peaks, colorful, amazing.

Walking in such a picture reminds Yun of the mountain sightseeing avenue written by Zhu Guangqian and Ji Xianlin, "Walk slowly and enjoy slowly". It's just that this road is much higher than that one, and the scenery is not generally charming.

On both sides of the road, green pastures and the sea fluctuate like waves. Behind the waves, towering peaks, far and near, layer upon layer, in the evening sunset, sunset glow, sunset glow rising. The colors of the mountains are in sharp contrast and colorful. The mountain shape is like a fan, like a screen, tall and majestic. It looks like hallucination and Xu Ruo, and it is very vivid.

Appreciate it carefully: At the foot of a flat mountain, the grassland is vast, full of green. Lush forests are densely surrounded or arranged on the hillside. On the top of the mountain, black peaks and abrupt rock masses soar into the sky. In the light blue sky, eternal snow is shining with dazzling silver white.

The air in the mountains is clean and the scenery is simple and beautiful in Ming Che. The blue sky, crystal clear as a gem, can melt people's hearts. White clouds, soft cotton hanging overhead, seem within reach.

Qilian Mountain, with an average elevation of more than 3000 meters, is sleeping quietly under a huge green blanket. Cloud's car really can't bear to drive on its plump and soft body.

I remember the golden autumn of the National Day the year before last. When Yun first walked this mountain road, it was overwhelming and magnificent. At that time, I was really intoxicated with the cloud and made it relaxed and happy. You can truly realize what you don't like and don't care about your own life realm. Only in the autumn wind of Qilian Mountain can you really feel it.

? Deep in Qilian Mountain is a paradise for Tibetan and Yugur herders. They live by the grass with the seasons. The houses are brightly colored, and the mushrooms in fairy tales are dotted in the vast green among the valleys in Qian Shan. They are primitive and modern, and foxes are lonely and lonely. Like a silent oil painting.

Some people park their private cars on the floor in front of their houses. On the hill behind the house or on the roadside, there are mani stone piles and five-color prayer flags printed with scriptures. It seems that the benevolent spirit is around you.

Yun's car passed a flock of sheep. Two sheep with black faces, black necks and black breasts aroused YY's curiosity. The clouds stopped. When the sheepdog jumped out of the car and suddenly appeared in front of the sheep, all the sheep stood up in panic and looked at the sheepdog together.

The horns of those magnificent rams were painted with colorful colors, like a primitive Indian tribe, which scared the young sheepdogs to hide behind the clouds.

The sheep must have thought that there was a bad wolf coming, and the city shepherd had long forgotten what the sheep on the grassland looked like. Until the sheepdog got on the bus and completely disappeared from the sheep's sight, the frightened sheep stood on the low cliff and stared at the cloud car for a long time.

The clouds in the depths of Qilian Mountain are white and flawless, showing different shapes in the spotless sky. There is a cloud that looks like a symbol of Tik Tok. YY jokingly asked, "Is God busy playing Tik Tok? ? "

The thistle flowers on the roadside look like goblins in the depths of Qilian Mountain, with clusters of enchanting fragrance. Those purple flowers are very attractive in the afterglow of the sunset. Don't pick wild flowers by the roadside! Don't pick! Let it be. Charm is there! Once again, the cloud came to Guanyin Cave.

Guanyin cave is on a cliff in a valley. The valley is rich in water plants, and a bay of streams gurgles. The cave leads to a cliff several feet above the ground. The eagle flies high in the sky, the wind blows through the pine forest, and everything is quiet, ethereal and mysterious.

A beautiful young shepherdess, with a flowery smile, is driving the sheep along the stone road under Guanyin Cave, facing the clouds. The clouds stopped. Sheep pushed past Yun's car, and the dust told Yun that it was on the earth.

Looking at the beautiful shepherdess, Yun remembered The Shepherd of Cocoto Sea and the elegant college student with glasses when Yun came last autumn. Like the guardian of Dunhuang, he has piously and silently guarded this inaccessible Guanyin Cave for ten years, but it has extremely high cultural value. How can such an indifferent person not let the cloud move and admire him?

The cloud remembers that there is a pool of clear water in the depths of the cave, which will last for thousands of years. This unknown college student once gave Yun a spoon to drink. The spring water is clear, sweet as dew, with endless aftertaste, which makes the cloud fresh in memory.

"Beautiful grassland, my home, the wind blowing green grass, flowers everywhere. Butterflies fly, birds sing, and a bay of clear water reflects the sunset. Horses are like colorful clouds, cattle and sheep are like pearls. The shepherd girl sang aloud, and the joyful song spread all over the world ... "The wonderful song could not help but ring gently in Yun's mind.

So stop-and-go, take a look, and arrive at Macun, a metropolis deep in Qilian Mountain, where the sun is setting and the home is on the cliff. It's too cold in the mountains in early autumn. Yun put on his coat and didn't wear long trousers, and stood shivering in the street of Macun with his dog.

The road back is rugged, no easier than the Shu Road. In order not to walk at night, the Yun family lived in Yingcuo Village, Macun Village. It is called Mujiale, which is actually the herdsmen's own home. The shopkeeper is over 60 years old and has a good memory. He even knew about the clouds that came during the National Day last year.

There are also eight Jiayuguan men and women who live together in the hotel. The inexperienced dog, thinking that strangers are relatives, stood up directly and squatted enthusiastically on a lady's lap, scared to death. Cloud hurriedly explained that in order to be considered not to cause disputes.

Dinner is cold shredded white radish, wild mushroom noodles and half a catty of lamb chops. The combination of meat and vegetables is delicious and comfortable. The Gesang flowers in the backyard are in full bloom, and the prayer flags in the distance are swaying in the wind. If there is nothing to do, the days deep in the mountains may be lonely and confused.

The shepherd found a Lu Hua chicken lying quietly in the backyard laying eggs. I ran forward and watched curiously. As a result, the hen's croaking scared the dog to run around.

As night falls, the sky is blue at first and dark at last. The night in the mountains is quiet. Looking at the stars in the sky at night, blowing the cold mountain wind. Without the colorful neon of the town, the world is flashy and restless. It gives the impression that everything is safe and quiet.

Daduma is a small Tibetan village, located in a wide and gentle canyon, surrounded by mountains. On both sides of a village road, there are 20 families' houses in turn. In front of the white walls and blue tiles, trees are shaded and flowers are in full bloom. The wall is painted with auspicious patterns with national characteristics.

There is a river called Daduma near the village. The river is crystal-clear, fast-flowing and rolling day and night. One thousand years, ten thousand years, coming from Xuefeng, tireless and never-ending.

One side of the river is the lush seabuckthorn forest on the beach, and the other side is near the foot of the mountain, where the vegetation is lush. Some leaves have turned red and yellow, revealing the gorgeous figure of autumn.

The next morning in Macun, it didn't rain on cloudy days and the air was humid. Smoke rising from herdsmen's kitchens in Ran Ran gradually spread in the air. The whole village is quietly shrouded in a faint milky mist, just like a fairyland.

Yun took the dog to the river with a big belly full of thorns. Passing the herdsmen's barn. There are three goats standing on the grass beside the barn. Father goat saw the dog from a distance and bravely stepped forward. Then all the goats stepped forward to meet the dog. The dog was awed by the heroic momentum of the goat family and quickly turned away.

The dense seabuckthorn forest on the beach is covered with golden seabuckthorn fruits, which makes the clouds feel full of autumn.

Most of the horses and rivers are rich in water, and you can hear its endless, heroic and loud songs from a distance. Clouds walked along the river bank and stepped on the huge beach stones. The dog ran around excitedly and accompanied him. River valleys, grasslands, forests, rugged boulders, majestic snow-capped mountains and clouds seem to be walking in a distant dream.

My wife and YY are still in the warm quilt of the herdsmen's home in the cold mountain area. This may be a Buddhist temple. In a niche on the wall, there is a Thangka Buddha statue with unlit butter lamps and saffron curtains.

It's not yet seven o'clock in the morning, and birds and chickens and dogs occasionally float in the wind. The air in the mountains is very humid, and the bedding in the shop reminds the clouds of the scene of spending the night in Emei Mountain during the rainy season.

The morning light is bright, and the clouds return to Mujiale. Do as Romans do in Rome. The proprietress prepared thick sesame seed cake, highland barley fried noodles, small twist and butter tea for Yunjia. When eating, I pointed to a painting on the living room wall and said to the cloud, "Dad, you should be familiar with this painting!" "

On the cloud is a panoramic view of the magnificent Potala Palace, and I am deeply touched by the pious pilgrims I saw on my way to Tibet. He said, "The Potala Palace is a sacred place in the hearts of countless Tibetans. Many people are indomitable, and their lifelong dream is to go to Tibet to worship! Only people with faith can stick to their own path and never lose their direction in life. "

Life is peaceful, and it is uncertain to gather and disperse. At half past eight, the sunset left the shop in a hurry. Cloud home slowly with butter tea, it's past nine o' clock.

Daduma Village is named after Daduma River and belongs to horseshoe township. The shopkeeper told Yun that "Duma" is Tibetan, which means a tower-shaped offering made of fried noodles and butter or a priest's product, which is used to vividly compare the shape of a mountain peak.

Pharmacist Yun talked with the owner about Zhang Zhijun, the former president of Horseshoe Township Health Center. The shopkeeper is very familiar with it, saying that he is still a relative and has been transferred to Dahe Township under the snow-capped mountains in barrs for several years.

Dahe Township is located deeper in Qilian Mountain and belongs to a relatively remote town on Sunan grassland. It must be hard for Zhang Zhijun to be a dean. Everyone, in this vast mountain and river, is a grain of dust. Do what you should do, the world in the mountains is narrow, but it is also pure. Just like a pair of sons and daughters of the store, they graduated from the health school and took root in the horseshoe township health center with peace of mind. Like nameless flowers, they silently exude the fragrance of life for the herdsmen on the grassland.

The daughter-in-law is a simple herdsman. With a four-year-old boy and a one-year-old girl, I help manage the animal husbandry at home. The business of pastoral music is average, and there are not many guests at ordinary times. All because of the host's hospitality. According to him, vacating a few spare rooms is mainly to provide a place to eat and stay for those who miss the picturesque scenery in the mountains.

Xiao Yun asked the shopkeeper, "Zhang Zhiyuan is old now, can he still drink?" (that's what the cloud problem means. )

Yun met Zhijun in about 1997. After graduating from Cloud Medical College, I came to Hexi from Hedong and worked for one or two years. Zhang Zhiyuan is the first real Tibetan friend on the grassland that Yun knew. He is straightforward, enthusiastic and cheerful. I like drinking very much. I treat my guests with authentic Tibetan customs, singing and toasting, and constantly singing and drinking. He drinks in a big bowl and eats meat in large chunks, which makes Yun unforgettable.

? The shopkeeper replied, "It's still the same, you can still drink so much!" " I can hear that shops still like and admire Zhang Zhiyuan very much. When going out, the cloud asked the kind herdsman uncle? Is there a better scenery nearby?

The kind-hearted herdsman's uncle was disappointed to learn that Yun arrived at Jinta Temple, not far from the village, last year and was not open to the public. So, I told the cloud about a lonely road with infinite scenery. Say that finish specially looked at the cloud's car, said it should be ok. Finally, I told Yun to watch out for the bear!

In fact, there is no better scenery in life, and there is no best scenery. Some people just watch it or not, like it or not.

The herdsmen in the depths of Qilian Mountain live a primitive grazing life. Stay away from the complex and utilitarian modern society and do not compete with the world. Time is simple and leisurely, and life is simple and stable. After breakfast, it was sunny. When we left the village, the shopkeeper went out on a motorcycle, saying that he was going to look after his cattle and sheep.

According to the instructions of the herdsmen's uncle, Yun marched to the village head, crossed the road next to the racecourse and crossed a shallow stream. The car came to a stone bridge. Crossing the bridge is an extremely steep dirt road.

YY was sharp-eyed, and suddenly saw a bear painted on the street sign at the bridge head, prompting: tourists stop, beware of bears! Fortunately, it was daytime and I was sitting in the car. I felt nothing to be afraid of. I continued to drive boldly up the hill.

The road is rugged dirt road and gravel road, which is even more difficult to open than the sky road in Tibet. Yun is worried that the chassis of the car is too low. Finally, the car slowly climbed up the dense forest ridge. On the side of the ridge, there is also a warning sign, beware of bears.

Walk carefully and slowly along the way, and the scenery passing by is really beautiful. Forests and grasslands are more dense and charming than anywhere else. The unique fresh breath of forest and grassland in the air is more intense, emitting warm moisture in the early autumn morning sunshine.

There are white clouds floating in the blue sky, vast and mottled towering snow peaks, swaying pines and cypresses, cattle, sheep and horses freely foraging, rivers and mountains faintly visible in the twilight, quiet roads and beautiful rural houses all present a wonderful and unique landscape. It's refreshing.

It's really a dangerous peak with infinite scenery. It's just that this road has unlimited scenery. If you don't have good car condition and excellent skills, and have the courage and courage to risk your life, you'd better not take risks.

The herdsman's uncle said, don't go back, go all the way, don't take the fork in the road, and you can reach the folk music xin tian zhen. The result is a fork in the road, and the cloud finally asks nothing. After opening the Tencent map, the car retreated a few meters. Mr. Tencent really knew the way and led all the way from the depths of Qilian Mountain to Zhang Ye's home.

Mountains and rivers are like snow, and wind and rain are like flowers for half a century. After experiencing the prosperity of the world, what Yun deeply loves is still simple landscape, natural countryside and leisurely life.

The scenery in the depths of Qilian Mountain is not like the vast desert where the long river sets the yen, nor is it like the charming Jiangnan with apricot flowers and misty rain. Its landscape is simple and clean, and the wind is clear and the day is idle. Lin Quan Xi Yun, the world is independent. Country shepherd, simple and quiet. Snow peaks are holy and beautiful, and white clouds are quiet and peaceful. The pen is too poor to describe (fortunately, there are pictures and the truth). Its scenery needs you to enjoy it yourself.

If life is a journey, then life is a passing by. Look at the scenery along the way, smell the beautiful and fragrant flowers around you, and enjoy the leisure time in rainy and sunny days. This is probably the best treasure in a snowy day.

Qilian Mountain is beautiful, pure, primitive and quiet in the depths, which is a place worthy of people's souls to fly. There will make people feel empty and let go of all worldly troubles and entanglements.

Light years fly, and the past is like a dream. When Yunhe wrote this travel note, the chapter of the New Year had turned a page, and the time was the fifth day of the first month of 2022. It's a big day, and everyone is busy welcoming the God of Wealth. I hope that in this world, everyone has leisure, everyone has money, everyone is happy and everyone is comfortable.