Daily necessities of the ancients. (200 points of information)!

China ancient textile printing and dyeing

China ancient textile and printing and dyeing technology has a very long history. As early as in primitive society, in order to adapt to climate change, the ancients knew how to use local materials and natural resources as raw materials for textile and printing and dyeing to make simple textile tools. Until today, our daily clothes, some daily necessities and artworks are all products of textile and printing and dyeing technology.

China weaving originated from the spinning wheel and waist machine in the Neolithic Age 5000 years ago. During the Western Zhou Dynasty, simple mechanical looms, spinning wheels and looms with traditional properties appeared one after another. Jacquard machines and oblique looms were widely used in Han Dynasty. After the Tang Dynasty, China's textile machinery became more and more perfect, which greatly promoted the development of textile industry.

Diversification of textile materials

The development of textile processing technology and equipment in ancient and modern times is designed according to textile raw materials, so raw materials occupy an important position in textile processing. In ancient times, all the fibers used in textile in the world were natural fibers, generally three kinds of short fibers: wool, hemp and cotton. For example, the only fibers used for textile in the Mediterranean region are wool and flax. Cotton used to be used in the Indian Peninsula. In addition to these three kinds of fibers, silk, a long fiber, was widely used in ancient China.

Silk is the best, longest and thinnest textile fiber among all natural fibers, and can be used to weave all kinds of complex jacquard fabrics. The extensive use of silk fiber greatly promoted the progress of textile processing and machinery in ancient China, thus making silk production technology the most distinctive and representative textile technology in ancient China.

Various types of textile machinery

1. Rotating pendant

Spinning wheel pendant is the earliest tool used for spinning in the history of China, and its appearance can be traced back to at least the Neolithic Age. Archaeological data show that almost all the early residential sites excavated in more than 30 provinces and cities in China have unearthed spinning wheels, which are the main components of spinning wheel pendants. Spinning wheels unearthed in the early days were generally made of stones or pottery pieces by simple polishing, with different shapes, mostly drum-shaped, round, oblate and quadrangular, and some wheels were painted with decorative patterns.

Author: Chu 2008- 1-29 17:23 reply to this speech.

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2 Reply: China ancient textile printing and dyeing (transferred from China Wind Online)

The appearance of spinning pendants not only changed the textile production in primitive society, but also had a far-reaching impact on the development of spinning tools in later generations. As a simple spinning tool, it has been used for thousands of years. Even in the twentieth century, some nomadic Tibetans in Tibet still used it for spinning.

2. spinning wheel

According to the structure, the common spinning wheels in ancient times can be divided into two types: manual spinning wheels and pedal spinning wheels. The image data of hand-cranked spinning wheels have been found many times in cultural relics unearthed in Han Dynasty, which shows that hand-cranked spinning wheels have been very popular as early as Han Dynasty. Pedal spinning wheel is developed on the basis of manual spinning wheel. At present, the earliest image data is the Eastern Han Dynasty stone relief unearthed in Sihong County, Jiangsu Province. The power to drive the spinning wheel by hand comes from hand. When operating, you need one hand spinning wheel and one hand spinning. The power of pedal spinning wheel driving spinning wheel comes from feet. During operation, the spinning woman can spin with both hands, which greatly improves the work efficiency. The spinning wheel has been the most popular spinning machine since its appearance. Even in modern times, some remote areas still regard it as the main spinning tool.

3. Hydraulic spinning wheel

The number of spindles in ancient spinning wheels was generally 2 to 3, with a maximum of 5. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, with the development of social economy, large spinning machines with dozens of spindles gradually appeared on the basis of various handed down spinning machines. The big spinning wheel is different from the original spinning wheel, which is characterized by dozens of spindles and hydraulic drive. These characteristics make the spinning wheel have the embryonic form of modern spinning machinery and adapt to large-scale specialized production. Take spinning hemp as an example, the average spinning wheel can spin at most 3 kilograms a day, and the big spinning wheel can spin 100 kilograms a day and night. In spinning performance, enough hemp is needed to meet its production capacity. The water spinning wheel is an important invention of applying natural forces to textile machinery in ancient China. For example, in terms of water-powered spinning machines, China was more than four centuries ahead of the West.

4. Pedal loom

Pedal loom is the general name of textile machinery with pedal heald shedding device. There is no reliable historical explanation for the earliest appearance of pedal loom. According to historical records, the amount of cloth and silk presented by governors in the Warring States period was as high as 100 times that in the Spring and Autumn Period. In addition, the historical materials of Chinese paintings engraved with pedal looms unearthed in recent years, the researchers speculated that the appearance of pedal looms could be traced back to the Warring States period at the earliest. By the Qin and Han dynasties, it had been widely used in the Yellow River basin and the Yangtze River basin. Lifting heddle with pedal is an important invention in the history of loom development. It frees the weaver's hands from the heald lifting action and focuses on picking and beating-up, which greatly improves the productivity. Take plain weave fabric as an example, it is 20 to 60 times higher than the original loom, and each person can weave 0.3 to 1 m per hour.

Fabric dyeing

The materials used for coloring in ancient China can be divided into mineral pigments and plant dyes, the latter being the main dyes in ancient times. Ancient ancestors mastered the properties of various plant dyes long ago and invented a variety of dyeing techniques and anti-dyeing printing techniques, which were called "Valium Tablets". All kinds of dyes have their coloring principles. Although mineral pigments and plant dyes are both pigments, their coloring principles are different. The coloring of mineral pigment is to attach it to the surface of fabric through adhesive, but it is easy to fade when it meets water. On the other hand, plant dyes are not. When dyeing, their pigment molecules change the color of the fiber through their affinity with the fabric fiber. Although the color is washed in the sun, it does not fall off easily or rarely.

There are countless mineral plant dyes commonly used in ancient times, and the dyeing processes created by the ancients according to different dye characteristics are: direct dyeing, mordant dyeing, vat dyeing, preventive dyeing, overprint dyeing and so on. The diversity of dye varieties and process methods makes the chromatography of ancient printing and dyeing industry very rich. There are hundreds of kinds recorded in ancient books, especially dozens of similar colors are clearly divided in one tone, so it is necessary to master the combination and formula of various dyes and change the process conditions.

Main fabric

China textile has a long history. Textiles can be divided into four categories: embroidery, silk, clothing and carpets. These four varieties have different production techniques and unique styles. Here, a brief introduction.

embroidery

Embroidery, as a handicraft embroidery, is developed on the basis of ordinary sewing. Sewing clothes with needles is a great progress of human civilization.

Chinese embroidery has a long history. In the Neolithic Age in China, Hemudu people used not only bone needles, but also textiles more than 7,000 years ago. For thousands of years, China's embroidery has generally developed along such a line: first, it embroidered clothes, then extended to embroidered daily necessities, and then rose to embroidered ornamental products. Until now, it is still divided into two categories, embroidery daily necessities and embroidery calligraphy and painting.

Embroidery is a primary art, which is created for the beauty of one's life. Embroidery is simple and pure, which shows the deep affection of the embroidery artist.

silk

Silk is a kind of liquid that silkworms spit out when they cocoon. It is formed by air coagulation of silk protein and sericin protein. Silk has excellent properties, high toughness and good elasticity. A silkworm can spin silk about 1000 meters long. Silk reeling and embroidery became the main labor of ancient women in China. A little worm has played such a big role in China people's life and caused a shock all over the world.

When did China's silk products appear? According to archaeological data, China's silk fabrics started from Liangzhu culture in the Neolithic age in the southeast of China, and the age was about 2735-2 BC175 BC.

The appearance of spinning pendants not only changed the textile production in primitive society, but also had a far-reaching impact on the development of spinning tools in later generations. As a simple spinning tool, it has been used for thousands of years. Even in the twentieth century, some nomadic Tibetans in Tibet still used it for spinning.

2. spinning wheel

According to the structure, the common spinning wheels in ancient times can be divided into two types: manual spinning wheels and pedal spinning wheels. The image data of hand-cranked spinning wheels have been found many times in cultural relics unearthed in Han Dynasty, which shows that hand-cranked spinning wheels have been very popular as early as Han Dynasty. Pedal spinning wheel is developed on the basis of manual spinning wheel. At present, the earliest image data is the Eastern Han Dynasty stone relief unearthed in Sihong County, Jiangsu Province. The power to drive the spinning wheel by hand comes from hand. When operating, you need one hand spinning wheel and one hand spinning. The power of pedal spinning wheel driving spinning wheel comes from feet. During operation, the spinning woman can spin with both hands, which greatly improves the work efficiency. The spinning wheel has been the most popular spinning machine since its appearance. Even in modern times, some remote areas still regard it as the main spinning tool.

3. Hydraulic spinning wheel

The number of spindles in ancient spinning wheels was generally 2 to 3, with a maximum of 5. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, with the development of social economy, large spinning machines with dozens of spindles gradually appeared on the basis of various handed down spinning machines. The big spinning wheel is different from the original spinning wheel, which is characterized by dozens of spindles and hydraulic drive. These characteristics make the spinning wheel have the embryonic form of modern spinning machinery and adapt to large-scale specialized production. Take spinning hemp as an example, the average spinning wheel can spin at most 3 kilograms a day, and the big spinning wheel can spin 100 kilograms a day and night. In spinning performance, enough hemp is needed to meet its production capacity. The water spinning wheel is an important invention of applying natural forces to textile machinery in ancient China. For example, in terms of water-powered spinning machines, China was more than four centuries ahead of the West.

4. Pedal loom

Pedal loom is the general name of textile machinery with pedal heald shedding device. There is no reliable historical explanation for the earliest appearance of pedal loom. According to historical records, the amount of cloth and silk presented by governors in the Warring States period was as high as 100 times that in the Spring and Autumn Period. In addition, the historical materials of Chinese paintings engraved with pedal looms unearthed in recent years, the researchers speculated that the appearance of pedal looms could be traced back to the Warring States period at the earliest. By the Qin and Han dynasties, it had been widely used in the Yellow River basin and the Yangtze River basin. Lifting heddle with pedal is an important invention in the history of loom development. It frees the weaver's hands from the heald lifting action and focuses on picking and beating-up, which greatly improves the productivity. Take plain weave fabric as an example, it is 20 to 60 times higher than the original loom, and each person can weave 0.3 to 1 m per hour.

Fabric dyeing

The materials used for coloring in ancient China can be divided into mineral pigments and plant dyes, the latter being the main dyes in ancient times. Ancient ancestors mastered the properties of various plant dyes long ago and invented a variety of dyeing techniques and anti-dyeing printing techniques, which were called "Valium Tablets". All kinds of dyes have their coloring principles. Although mineral pigments and plant dyes are both pigments, their coloring principles are different. The coloring of mineral pigment is to attach it to the surface of fabric through adhesive, but it is easy to fade when it meets water. On the other hand, plant dyes are not. When dyeing, their pigment molecules change the color of the fiber through their affinity with the fabric fiber. Although the color is washed in the sun, it does not fall off easily or rarely.

There are countless mineral plant dyes commonly used in ancient times, and the dyeing processes created by the ancients according to different dye characteristics are: direct dyeing, mordant dyeing, vat dyeing, preventive dyeing, overprint dyeing and so on. The diversity of dye varieties and process methods makes the chromatography of ancient printing and dyeing industry very rich. There are hundreds of kinds recorded in ancient books, especially dozens of similar colors are clearly divided in one tone, so it is necessary to master the combination and formula of various dyes and change the process conditions.

Main fabric

China textile has a long history. Textiles can be divided into four categories: embroidery, silk, clothing and carpets. These four varieties have different production techniques and unique styles. Here, a brief introduction.

embroidery

Embroidery, as a handicraft embroidery, is developed on the basis of ordinary sewing. Sewing clothes with needles is a great progress of human civilization.

Chinese embroidery has a long history. In the Neolithic Age in China, Hemudu people used not only bone needles, but also textiles more than 7,000 years ago. For thousands of years, China's embroidery has generally developed along such a line: first, it embroidered clothes, then extended to embroidered daily necessities, and then rose to embroidered ornamental products. Until now, it is still divided into two categories, embroidery daily necessities and embroidery calligraphy and painting.

Embroidery is a primary art, which is created for the beauty of one's life. Embroidery is simple and pure, which shows the deep affection of the embroidery artist.

silk

Silk is a kind of liquid that silkworms spit out when they cocoon. It is formed by air coagulation of silk protein and sericin protein. Silk has excellent properties, high toughness and good elasticity. A silkworm can spin silk about 1000 meters long. Silk reeling and embroidery became the main labor of ancient women in China. A little worm has played such a big role in China people's life and caused a shock all over the world.

When did China's silk products appear? According to archaeological data, China's silk fabrics started from Liangzhu culture in the Neolithic age in the southeast of China, and the age was about 2735-2 BC175 BC. The Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD) and the Tang Dynasty (6 18-907 AD) in China were two heydays. Silk weaving is also an unprecedented development, reaching a peak and many physical objects have been handed down. For a long time, China is not only the country that invented silk, but also the only country with this handicraft industry. Because of exporting high-grade silk products, China is praised as "silk" by all countries in the world.

Country. "

Now the so-called "silk" is a kind of silk fabric. Silk is of good quality, but not too thin. It can be divided into raw weaving, cooked weaving, plain weaving and plain weaving.

From the very beginning, the patterns of China silk fabrics presented colorful scenes. Whether it is small flowers, large flowers, monochrome, color, or geometric natural shapes, they all adapt to the structure and practicality of silk, reflecting contemporary artistic decoration. The traditional decorative patterns in China not only pay attention to the formal aesthetic feeling, but also emphasize the auspicious meaning. Those ideas of exorcism are also for peace and happiness.

Silk brocade, with its gorgeous and noble quality, has won the treasure of all mankind, and its complex and diverse weaving technology, coupled with unique artistic ingenuity, has created a glory of 3 thousand years.

Dress

Clothing is a unique result of human labor, not only the crystallization of material civilization, but also the significance of spiritual civilization. Almost from the day when clothing originated, people accumulated their own living customs, aesthetic tastes, color hobbies and various cultural mentality in clothing, and constructed the spiritual civilization connotation of clothing culture.

China's clothing, like China's culture, is produced by the mutual infiltration and influence of all ethnic groups. Since the Han and Tang Dynasties (206 BC-907 AD), especially after modern times, it has absorbed and melted the outstanding crystals of foreign cultures of all nationalities in the world, and only then has it evolved into a set of so-called China costume culture with the Han nationality as the main body.

In the Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644-1911), men's clothes were mainly robes and mandarin jackets. In the Qing Dynasty, Manchu and Han costumes coexisted. Manchu women mainly wear robes, while Han women wear clothes and skirts as the fashion. There are more and more styles and varieties of women's wear in Qing Dynasty, including vests, skirts, coats, scarves, belts and glasses.

Cheongsam, popular in the 1920s, was born out of Manchu women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, and was shaped by the continuous improvement of western clothing styles absorbed by Han women. From the 1920s to the end of the 1940s, China cheongsam was popular for more than 20 years, and its style changed several times. For example, the collar completely got rid of the old style, which fully showed the beauty of women's posture and curves, just suitable for the fashion at that time. Later, cheongsam also spread abroad and was worn by women in other countries.

carpet

China began to produce carpets from the tenth year of Xianfeng to the tenth year of Tongzhi (1860- 187 1). Carpet pattern design appeared in the last years of19th century. At the beginning of the 20th century, China carpets gradually matured in pattern design, color setting and technology, and in the 1920s, a unique China carpet was formed.

China carpet standard system;

The basic composition of carpet pattern is mainly reflected in: the layout of the inner pattern mainly occupies the center of the carpet, the four corners are decorated with equilateral triangular corner clouds, the outside of the carpet is surrounded by small sides and large sides, and the edge of the carpet is a narrow circle without any decoration.

Carpets of Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644-1911). It is mainly used for court etiquette, the later life of emperors and Beijing officials' families, and a few for folk festive activities.

The patterns and ornamentation of carpet patterns in China are famous for their magnificence, solemnity, elegant colors and not kitsch. After 1920, China carpets produced colorful branches and artistic patterns.