Yiliang roast duck

According to Yang Dechun, a disciple who is still alive, the improvement and innovation of roast duck technology mainly include the following points:

First, Beijing used sorghum stalks as supporting pipes, and Liu Wen used local materials to switch to reeds growing everywhere along the Nanpanjiang River in the old days. Four for each duck. There are not only two supporting pipes under the wings; The other is placed in the chest cavity to empty the cavity, which is beneficial to the penetration of heat; And a fart tube stuffed in a duck's ass. According to the principle of roast duck, it is actually cooked inside and roasted outside. After confirming that the open flame is burnt out, the furnace temperature reaches 400℃. Put the striped duck into the furnace, with the continuous heating, the water in the duck overflowed, accumulated in the body cavity, and soon boiled. The inner cavity is steamed with boiling water and hot air that can't be dispersed in the cavity. The skin is baked directly by the furnace temperature. Therefore, the fart tube inserted from the lower anus (there must be a knot in the middle) not only prevents the water in the bore from leaking out and makes it stay in the body for a long time, but also makes the duck mature more thoroughly, thus realizing the crisp separation of the flesh and blood; In addition, in the process of cooking and baking, it gives off its clear fragrance, so its taste is unique (using fresh reed as an auxiliary material should be inspired by the clear fragrance of wrapping zongzi with reed leaves in Duanyang Festival). In addition, due to the use of the support tube, the cooked duck is beautiful in shape, with its head held high and its chest held high. The proverb "roast duck has a burden on its chest" is an accurate description of its inherent commodity form and has long been deeply rooted in people's hearts.

Second, Beijing used maltose water as the coating of duck embryo epidermis, and Liu Wen replaced it with honey water produced in Yunnan. Duck skin is easily absorbed after repeated rubbing with honey water. Liu Wenying was inspired by this method), so he can raise the color to golden red after baking. However, maltose is less absorbed than honey, and the sugar juice left on the epidermis is easy to zoom and turn black after baking, and the color of the finished product is slightly darker. Yunnan Scenery commented that "Yiliang roast duck has a little honey", which is an affirmation and high evaluation of the success of this improved technology.

Third, Liu Wen has also made great improvements in fuel. In Beijing, wood used as fuel is burned into charcoal and roasted in raw ducks. Liu Wen used pine wool knots as fuel in combination with local conditions. The burning time of loose wool knot is shorter than that of wood, which can make the furnace temperature rise rapidly and make full use of heat. There is no smoke, but there is a clear fragrance, and the burning heat is uniform and lasting. The used earthen stove has good heat preservation and heat storage, which ensures sufficient barbecue temperature. After repeated experiments, the covering barbecue time for each duck is 40 minutes. You can't lift the cover before the time, and you can't release heat in the middle of the flash fire. When the time is up, you can open the lid and eat. Yan Zishu, a well-known city official, said in the poem "Eating Roast Duck": "The cannon is burned with fire, and the earthen stove is scented with smoke. The transpiration of waste gas and the fragrance produced by hands are vivid portrayal of this situation. Liu Wen roast duck, as soon as the leg bone is shaken, the leg meat falls off the bone. As the saying goes: cold chicken hot duck. When the roast duck is eaten hot, the cartilage is chewy. A duck only lost four bones (two legs and two wings), and the rest were chewed up. The more you chew, the better it tastes.

Liu Wen roast duck is the first choice of ingredients. The traditional duck species in Yiliang is Dianma duck. Ma duck is a lean duck. In the past, most folk farming was hatched by hens, and the number was limited, so farming was more particular. In the Republic of China 12 (1923), Renwang of Jiangchuan County (living in Tuqiao Village, Kuangyuan Town) entered Yiliang with the family-style grain bucket (cooking) technique invented in his hometown, and gradually popularized this advanced hatching method, and the number of ducks in Yiliang increased significantly. According to a preliminary estimate, before the introduction of duck roasting technology in Wang Huo, the number of ducks in the county was more than 1000, but it developed rapidly since then, reaching tens of thousands by the end of 1940s. Jiangchuan has a history of incubating ducks with fire for a hundred years, and the scale of raising ducks in this county has been wandering for a hundred years, but it has not grown. Yiliang, separated by a mountain, has developed rapidly, mainly due to the success of "Kyoto Roast Duck". Ma duck lives in the middle of Yunnan for a long time, and its basic growth law is: except for the old duck that lays eggs, the general fattening duck can't survive the winter. Duck eggs accumulated in winter usually hatch when the weather gets warmer after spring. In the old society, there were no electric heating facilities, so the newly hatched ducklings could not stand the low temperature, did not keep warm or hatch. After the first batch of ducklings hatched, it was already the vernal equinox season. After that, they will hatch one after another, and stop hatching in summer and May to ensure that the last batch of ducklings can be fattened and slaughtered in late autumn. Because this season, the growing period of ducks is generally the same as the time when Bazi planted rice in a large area. Yiliang Bazi has a wide paddy field, and all ducks are kept in the paddy field. At that time, chemical fertilizers and pesticides were not used, and there were many creatures such as fish, shrimp and snails in the rice fields. Ma duck is mainly fed on organisms rich in organic matter, which contains a variety of vitamins and amino acids, so its meat is particularly delicious and is a real organic food. In the rice harvest season, all the ducks have grown up gradually, and they can eat the grain that has just matured and fallen into the ground, and they will soon gain weight. The couplet "Milk duck fat after autumn in Nishimura" quoted above is a true portrayal of this fattening method, and it is also the best season to eat Yunnan roast duck. Yiliang used to say that after the late autumn and early frost, the bones of ducks will harden, the meat will get old and tasteless, and the roast duck will be eaten for one year. Strong seasonality has become a remarkable feature of Yunnan duck production and barbecue processing in the past.

The duck source selected by Liu Wen is also fattened according to the above seasonal characteristics. The ducks raised by others can't enter Liu Wen's eyes, that is, they can't meet his requirements for material selection. Therefore, the third son, Liu Rongkui, raised ducks and created a set of technical specifications for raising ducks. The ducklings that began to be stocked were picked and transported with big bamboo baskets, and the spacious bamboo baskets were stacked and filled with four baskets, with about 300 ducklings as a group. Since then, ducklings have been trained and educated. Teach the password repeatedly every time you feed. Yiliang county's duck-training passwords are unified, and they are all called "Yilai Yilai ...", which has both the charm of the old saying and the personification of human feelings. Therefore, it can be considered that this password was generated in the Ming Dynasty. At that time, a large number of troops with relatively high cultural level in the south of the Yangtze River have been used and continued since they entered Yiliang. Although the pronunciation of the password is the same, the tone and intonation of each owner are different, and ducks can easily distinguish it. When two groups of ducks are walking in the field, they don't have to worry about making mistakes. As long as the master gives the password, the ducks will voluntarily return to the team and separate from each other.

When the duckling grows up, people can't lift it, so they abandon the rack and rush to release it. Liu Wen's ducks also grew up in paddy fields. Liu Wen called the content of this organic food "dark fat", and he thought that the adult ducks that meet his standards must be dark fat, educated and mentally and psychologically stable. Ducks without education and training will be very alarmed when they encounter a little trouble, and their mood will fluctuate greatly, which will make the ducks lose weight and the food taste will inevitably be poor. The ducks raised by Liu Wen are different. A large group of ducks are locked in cages, which one is slaughtered and which one is pulled. Companions are fearless and have the demeanor of a general who dies calmly. In today's words, "animal welfare" has been ahead of duck slaughter in Liu Wen. Other ducks can't do this. This is the characteristic of his own flock of ducks.

In addition, adult ducks near slaughter can't eat grass in yellow mud, because muddy water pollutes the skin and is not easy to sell. However, ducks that graze in the blue-green mature mud will have bright, white and elastic skin after slaughter and depilation. In addition, a week before slaughter, ducks must be herded into a big pond with shade for a few days to prevent them from being exposed to strong sunlight after autumn, which is also a link to ensure bright and delicate skin color after slaughter. The psychological quality of adult ducks is stable, and there is no beating during slaughter, and there is no congestion under the skin, which is also a key point.

Liu Wenzai killed a duck, and his swordsmanship is also very particular. The neck butcher is only allowed to be as big as a soybean, but because of the precise location, he can control the whole body blood, leaving no drop in his body. So the roast duck is bright in color and has no ecchymosis. Moreover, due to the contraction of the neck epidermis after barbecue, the butcher's mouth can hardly be seen, which looks excellent and hygienic, and flies can't find the gap between biting and laying eggs. Under threat, only the thumb joint size is allowed, and the skill can only be seen. These are all difficult for people to do at the same time. Its quality requirements are strict, so it is natural to create a famous brand.

Its founding situation, 1 9971June1,the author leisurely interviewed the third generation Yang Dechun of Liu Wen, and it was really true. Later, I wrote an article in the book Interpretation of Yiliang. According to Yang Dechun (born 1934), when he first became sensible, it was probably in the early 1940s. Once, the provincial capital Long Mansion (located in Zhenzhuang, Beijing Road) invited Liu Wen to Shanghai to cook roast duck. He went with his father Yang and his master Liu Wen. Ducks, floss and other items are all taken from the dog street, not from other places. Building a furnace a few days in advance requires water and mud. His father and other young people didn't understand the way of the world, so they put all the buckets of clear water that the Long family was soaking in the smoked soil into the mud. When the stove is dry, the baked earthen stove will give off a strange smell. Several young people realized that they had made a big disaster before they ran back to Yiliang in fear. In fact, Long Fu did not pursue this matter. When ducks are barbecued formally, the smell of duck and smoke is mixed together, and the more fragrant it is, the more mouth-watering it is. As soon as the stove was turned on, the fragrance drifted with the wind and was heard far and near. People who don't know the details all praise Liu Wen's roast duck as delicious and mellow, and Liu Wen is becoming more and more famous. The dog street "Kyoto Roast Duck" founded by Liu Wen is created by his strict to almost harsh quality control, Excellence and meticulousness. As for the inheritance of Liu Wen's skills, there are three formal apprentices: Liu Rongchang, the fourth son of Liu Wen, and Yang He in the same village. Liu and Wang died young, and there was no biography. Yang Dechun, the son of Yang, was born in 1934. When he studied art, Liu Wen was still alive and was taught by Liu's father. Yang Dechun is alive today and mentally healthy, especially from time to time to guide the younger generation, and his art is endless.

Liu Wen died on 1945. Before him, he was very famous in central Yunnan. He left this famous brand to later generations, which made many Yiliang people embark on the road of getting rich today, forming the duck industry, which was also the fastest growing industry in our county in the last century. To this end, the author once wrote a poem praising him, saying:

The west village is ripe in autumn, the duck is fat, and Liu Wen is brilliant.

Fresh fragrance can frustrate the emperor, and crisp and tender can satisfy the hunger of Buddha.

Ge Kun's nature is to dry in the stove, and the knife in the kitchen is mysterious.

Now the county's industry is developed, and Hui Ze's grandchildren are not tired.

last or end syllable

Yiliang has a long history of raising ducks. Schumann by Tang Fanchu (AD 864) recorded that ducks were raised in Yunnan. By the 30th year of Daoguang in Qing Dynasty (1850), Dianma duck had been raised in Yiliangba area, and the creation of Kyoto roast duck and the technology of roasted duck introduced by Jiangchuan Wang greatly promoted the development of duck industry in our county. 1956, the number of animals raised has exceeded 65438+ 10,000. After three years (1959 ~ 196 1), the duck industry recovered, and by 1965 it had grown to 135000. Ducks can't go to rice fields after ten years of catastrophe, so they only wander around 654.38+ million for many years. In the late 1970s, the county organized six people, including Wang Shuizhong, the son of Wang, to study in Beijing and introduced the electric incubation technology. In the 1980s, the duck industry developed healthily, with198/kloc-0 reaching 258,000 per year. At that time, Yiliang roast duck had been popularized to the whole province on a large scale. Yunnan duck began to hatch in late spring and early summer, and the seasonal defect of not eating roast duck in winter and spring has seriously restricted the large-scale development of duck breeding industry. 1983165438+10. In October, under the guidance of the county science and technology commission, Dog Street Agriculture, Industry and Commerce Joint Farm (later renamed Dog Street Beijing Duck Farm) implemented the first batch of "Spark Project" listed by provincial and municipal science and technology commissions, and introduced170,000 from Kunming Agriculture, Industry and Commerce Haigeng Park. It has realized that ducks often bark in spring, summer, autumn and winter, and roast ducks are fragrant all year round. 1987, panjiang headquarters introduced Campbell duck (lean meat type) from Shangzhi county, Heilongjiang province. There is no ancestral duck breeding factory in our county or even in our province. Therefore, it is necessary to continuously introduce parental breeding to ensure the supply of duck sources. From 65438 to 0992, Lan Xuecheng went to Beijing to attend the exhibition and ordering meeting of the National Poultry Association, and introduced 3,000 parents' ducks and their breeding techniques from Shuangqiao Duck Farm in Beijing. Breeding in Lanjiaying, sold to Shilin, Lvliang and other counties and towns. From 65438 to 0995, Yiliang Duck Breeding Factory introduced 3000 Sichuan Tianfu meat ducks. In 2003, Sun and Chen Suo of Dog Street introduced cherry valley duck SM3 (parent generation) from Huaying Company in Henan. A large number of 2000 ducks are bred, which are mainly supplied to duck farmers in the county and exported to Honghe Prefecture. In 2004, 3600 ducks were introduced, which greatly promoted the development of duck industry in our county and promoted the large-scale breeding and improved breeding of Yiliang ducks. In the early 1980s, a senior Sichuan cuisine chef once opened a restaurant in Lion Building, Yiliang. He was deeply impressed and said, "Sichuan style is invincible in China and in the world, and nothing is untenable. Only in Yiliang, I can't eat or drive. The reason is that Yiliang has roast duck. " It can be slaughtered in 28-40 days after feeding the complete granular compound feed, which shortens the feeding cycle and improves the economic benefit. Duck industry has developed rapidly in just a few years. 1986 broke through the million mark, 199 1 year broke through the two million mark, and 1993 reached 4.285 million. By the year 2000, it will reach 8 million. Since 200 1, duck infectious diseases have been plaguing the majority of duck farmers. As a special project, the county science and technology bureau relies on relevant experts from provinces and cities to tackle key problems, which reduces the mortality rate from 27% to 7% and ensures the healthy development of duck industry in our county. In 2003, it reached 1.0 1.8 million. In the spring of 2004, a highly pathogenic avian influenza epidemic occurred in China. Shilin in the east, Songming in the north, Chenggong and Guandu in the west of Yiliang County were all infected, but the duck industry in Yiliang County was safe and sound. This is really a miracle. It shows that the duck industry in Yiliang County is mature and the scientific and technological level is successful. In the improvement of barbecue technology, firstly, the earthen stew stove which is not suitable for moving is made into a patented iron stove, which makes Yiliang roast duck stride to all parts of the province; Second, use chestnut charcoal as fuel where there is no raw material for loose hair and knots. The original striped duck needs to blow air between the epidermis and subcutaneous fat to make it swell. The purpose is to make the white-striped duck full and wrinkle-free before entering the furnace, and it is also convenient to show that it is air-dried. After barbecue, the sebum is separated and the skin is crisp. Because the butcher's mouth leaks too much and it is difficult to inflate, Lan Xuecheng improved it and dried it with a blower for 24 hours to ensure that the roast duck skin is crisp and the meat is fresh. He also introduced the sliced duck technology of Shanghai Jinjiang Group, with 25 pieces of duck skin each, and made exquisite sweet noodle sauce to replace the traditional pepper and salt seasoning and improve it. In addition, soft packaging products such as roast duck, traditional dried salted duck, rose duck and "fragrant roast duck" (that is, adding seasoning before barbecue, eating without seasoning) created by "Shuixiaoyu" company have come out one after another, which really makes Yiliang roast duck fly all over the sky.

However, with the excessive use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, the ecological environment is deteriorating day by day, and problems such as drug residues in Yiliang roast duck and Beijing duck are increasingly exposed. The duck industry in Yiliang is facing increasingly severe market challenges. Since 2002, the county science and technology bureau has started the green ecological duck breeding project and achieved initial results. Also from 2002, Dog Street and Nanyang Town resumed the traditional duck raising and barbecue in Yunnan, which became the new fashion of duck raising and catering industry in our county. In order to carry forward the tradition of authentic roast duck, Goujie Town has formulated a feasible development plan, introduced policies and measures, promoted the famous brand "Kyoto Roast Duck", and increased the research and excavation of duck culture to increase its cultural content. On September 6th, 2003, Dog Street Town organized and implemented the revitalization plan of Dog Street Roast Duck, and invited many people to hold the "Dog Street Traditional Roast Duck Promotion Conference". It is planned to further standardize the barbecue technology, award the license to the designated reception, take the road of brand development, and make the dog street roast duck industry bigger and stronger. In 2003, the county science and technology bureau declared the pollution-free duck project in Yiliang as the "Spark Plan" project of the provincial science and technology department, and implemented it in Gubei Town, and achieved initial results. In May 2004, it was certified as "pollution-free" agricultural products by the Provincial Department of Agriculture. In 2004, it is planned to carry out the project of "rice-duck co-breeding" in Goujie, where the amount of chemical fertilizer is reduced by more than half (mainly used in the early stage of rice growth), and safe pesticides are properly applied to produce high-quality rice and Yunnan ducks at low cost. In 2004, it will be a year in which the duck breeding industry in Dog Street and traditional Yunnan ducks have achieved great development and gained great fame. "Kyoto Roast Duck" starts from Dog Street and will be revived in Dog Street.