Soy sauce fermentation

China is the grandmother's home of "soy sauce", and it is the earliest history that people in China began to eat soy sauce. Nowadays, soy sauce has become an indispensable necessity in any crowded area in the world. In the history of China, soy sauce was customarily called "clear sauce", "clear sauce", "clear soy sauce", "black soy sauce" and "soy sauce". The standard interpretation of soy sauce in brewing industry is that plant or animal protein and carbohydrates (mainly starch) are used as main raw materials, and various amino acids and saccharides are generated through the catalytic hydrolysis of microbial enzymes or other catalysts, and based on these substances, a seasoning liquid with special color, fragrance, taste and appearance is synthesized through complex biochemical changes. To understand "China Soy Sauce" according to historical and cultural standards, it should be expressed as the following concept: a salty and fragrant seasoning liquid brewed with soybean protein as the main raw material through the process of "making koji with all materials" and "naturally stepping on yellow". China proverb says: "Seven things to open the door, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea." Refers to the core part of people's daily life-the basic content of "diet". As the saying goes, "oil and salt sauce vinegar". That is the basic seasoning of traditional cooking in China. It is used to refer to kitchen or cooking, and it is also extended to trivial matters. The universality of social significance reflected by this custom culture is just enough to show the great importance of soy sauce in the daily life of the people all over the country. In view of the close kinship and dependence between China soy sauce and the Chinese nation's diet life history and national culture for thousands of years, the author tries to make a historical investigation from the perspectives of food science and technology, diet life and cultural changes, so as to deeply understand the deeper connotation of China's diet culture and enhance our further understanding of national diet culture.

First of all, look at the national cultural characteristics of China soy sauce from the historical evolution of appellation.

Soy sauce in the history of China, or traditional Chinese soy sauce, has the following two obvious characteristics: one is the relationship with Chinese sauce, that is, clear or juicy sauce or black bean sauce, or conversely, it is called clear sauce or black bean sauce; The second is that some original titles are still almost used after more than two thousand years. These two characteristics of China soy sauce, or two cultural attributes, at least explain the following meanings: the appellation has strong rationality and affinity with public psychological cognition. Of course, under these two points, an important economic factor can not be ignored, that is, since the first generation of soy sauce appeared in the history of China, the lifestyle of China people, determined by the self-sufficient small-scale peasant economy, has almost always been a "cycle-by-cycle" operation, and the production mode of soy sauce has long been basically a "sauce garden" workshop mode. Probably because of this, the traditional appellation of China soy sauce can stand the rough test of historical time and remain in the mouth of hundreds of millions of people. Just like soy sauce itself, it is still fragrant and does not fade. Although there are so many names of China soy sauce, there is no ambiguity, but in comparison, people call it "clear sauce" in daily life. We say "I'm used to it" here because China people have used the name "clear sauce" for at least 2,200 years. At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Cui Ya (? ~ 169 or 170) the four people's monthly order clearly records the major events of the production and life of ordinary people in a year, including the exact bibliography of the first month ... which can be used as various sauces, meat sauces and clear sauces 1.

Judging from the existing literature, the earliest document that recorded the detailed information of Qing sauce should be Qi Yao Min Shu, which was written around 1930s. In the sauce making method in this book, it is recorded as follows: "Two Jin of mutton and one Jin of pork are cooked together and finely cut. 50% off ginger, 2 pieces of orange peel, 15 chickens, 1 catty of raw mutton, 50% off bean paste. Firstly, steaming cooked meat and mixing with raw meat; Sauce, ginger, orange and it. " Here, "bean paste clear" and "sauce clear" appear separately and are the same thing. Also: "One catty of mutton, four ounces of pork, bean paste to remove stains, cut into pieces. Ginger and chicken are used in spring and autumn, and they are spicy. " It is worth noting that Jia Sixie quoted Cui Ai, the author of "Four-person Moon Order", as saying: "In the first month, you can make all kinds of sauces, meat sauces and clear sauces." Cui Ai was a native of the Eastern Han Dynasty, and Jia Sixie saw the original text of the Moon Order for Four People. In other words, the word "clear sauce" has become a household name in Cui Ai's life, and this "clear sauce" is a special food. It is conceivable that at least in the Han Dynasty, the early varieties of Qingjiang and China soy sauce have become indispensable condiments for people to cook animal raw materials. Here, we should thank Jia Sixie's Book of Qi Yaomin, which has preserved a lot of such evidence for us since the Han Dynasty:

The practice of duck soup: use six ducklings, two Jin of mutton and five big ducks. Three liters of onion, twenty taro plants, three orange peel leaves, five inches of magnolia, twelve ounces of ginger, five times of soy sauce and one liter of rice. Have a fight. Cook the duck with eight liters of wine first. six

Method of making soft-shelled turtle: the soft-shelled turtle is completely cooked, and then the nail is removed. One catty of mutton, three liters of onion, five portions of black beans (the word "juice" should be removed here-introducer), half of japonica rice, five portions of ginger, one inch of Mulan, two liters of wine, and boiled turtle. Salt tastes the same as bitter wine. seven

Make a pig's trotters sour soup: three pig's trotters, boiled in water and smashed with big bones. It is to add onions, soy sauce, bitter wine and salt to adjust its taste. The old method used six pounds, but now it has been removed (both the old method and the traditional method have references). eight

Method of making sheep's hoof: seven sheep's hoofs and fifteen catties of mutton. Three liters of onion, five liters of soy sauce, one liter of rice, twelve ounces of ginger and three slices of orange peel. nine

Method of making sour soup: use two sets of sheep intestines, 6 kg of preserved vegetables and 6 kg of preserved leaves. Two liters of onion, three liters of garlic, three liters of flour, soy sauce, ginger and orange peel. 10

Making bamboo shoots ●(gě ge) Duck soup Method: A fat duck makes soup, and so does the pot. ● Four liters, the washing sequence is extremely clean; Wash the salt, don't boil water several times, take it out and wash it more. Scallion and scallion, soy sauce and the like, so that it will be cooked when boiled. 1 1

Take five liters of sheep's blood, remove the pockmarked midvein and crack it. Fine-cut sheep fat 2 liters, ginger 1 kg, orange peel 3 pieces, chopped pepper 1 liter, clear soy sauce 1 liter, light soy sauce 5 liters, flour 1 liter, rice 1 liter, all combined, and poured with 3 liters of water. Decompose the large intestine, destroy it, then wash the intestine with white wine, and then use flexion and extension and enema. Bend five inches and cook until you can't see the blood. Cut every inch and eat it with bitter wine dipped in sauce. 12

Stone eats fish and soup: soup is the first course. Fish, soup and cold water ... Cook soy sauce and soup in a special pot ... 13.

"Shi Jing" said: "Soup: Fish is two inches long, but not cut. ..... Cook it three times, making the headland muddy. Use soy sauce and salt. " 14

Vinegar goose and duck soup: accurate to the square inch, boil it. With black bean juice and rice juice. 15

Snakehead sauce: if it is used to a great extent, it is not suitable for use below one foot ... soy sauce and fish are in the water. 16

Face? Mix pork intestines with water, boil, and add black beans ... 17.

Black fish soup: ... black bean juice and fish, both in the water. 18

? Soup paste, remove the belly, ... clear soup with black beans, cooked well. 19

Steamed bear method: take three liters of meat and one bear, wash them, cook them until they are not half cooked, and wash them with black beans overnight. ..... steamed sheep, dolphins, geese and ducks, that's all. 20

Steamed bear method: sprinkle with three liters of pig paste and one liter of soy sauce. 2 1

Steamed dolphin method: the best fat dolphin, wash the scales, cook until half cooked, and dye with soy sauce. ... rice with thick soy sauce ... sprinkled with soy sauce ... steamed bears and sheep in .......................................................................................................................................................... are like dolphins, and so are geese. 22

Steamed chicken method: one fat chicken, ... three liters of soy sauce ... 23

Dolphin licking method: each fat dolphin weighs 15 Jin, and fried with ... soy sauce? To make sandwiches, season them with sauce. 24

Goose licking method: fat goose ... mixed with black bean juice ... transparent sauce ... 25

Method of steaming sheep: cut a catty of mutton and mix with soy sauce ... 26

Suspension cooking method: ten Jin of pork ... five-in-one soy sauce and seasoning. 27

Bear Steamed: Big, peeled and rotten. ..... Douchi cooked glutinous rice ... 28

Steamed raw fish: ... cooked glutinous rice in soy sauce like steamed bears. 29

Steamed fish with wool: fish is accurate ... in soy sauce. 30

? Tart method: minced raw chicken, soy sauce, tart, ... soup and soy sauce ... 3 1

Pure? Fishing methods: pike ... and black bean juice ... 32

Braised chicken: a chicken ... soy sauce ... 33

White meat: a kind of "white meat" ... black bean sauce. 34

Le Xiao Ya: Fine grinding and boiling are like cakes ... re-cooking meat with soy sauce ...

Fried duck method: if the newborn duck is particularly fat, it will be as big as a pheasant ... add salt and soy sauce and stir-fry until it is 80% cooked. 36

Mix method: If pork, sheep and deer are used as fertilizer, the leaves are cut and boiled, and mixed with salt and soy sauce. 37

Green meat method: cook with pork, chicken and duck, ... with salt and soy sauce. 38

Sour dolphin method: fry dolphins in milk ... with soy sauce ... plus soy sauce. 39

Braised in soy sauce: sheep, cattle and deer all have it ... and salt and soy sauce, but they drown each other. 40

Roasted liver: beef liver, sheep liver and pig liver ... with black bean sauce. 4 1

Enema method: Take sheep intestines, mix them with …… salt, soy sauce, ginger and pepper to make them salty and palatable, and then enema can be performed. Forty two.

How to cook and roast white fish: White fish is two feet long ... When the soy sauce is combined, it will be cooked ... soy sauce ... 43.

? Barbecue: Use goose, duck, sheep ... soy sauce, mix meat and make meatballs. Forty-four

Cooking on the Allium macrostemon Bunge; ... sprinkle with five liters of soy sauce ... use soy sauce three times ...

Eggplant method: if you don't use seeds, ... the fragrant sauce is clear, the onion eggplant is chopped and cooked. 46

Cooking recipe: use 20 Jin of mutton ... seven and a half liters of soy sauce, and cut five liters of onions. 47

Auricularia auricula fermented grains: take jujube, mulberry, elm and willow, which are very soft and wet, ... add soy sauce, clear sauce and vinegar ...

Above, we have taken pains to collect and sort out the cases of using "clear sauce", "clear sauce" and "black bean juice" in the processing of animal food mainly composed of poultry, livestock and fish (individual wild animals and birds) recorded in Qi Yaomin's Book. We can easily draw the following conclusions: In the era of Jia Sixie, sauce such as clear sauce has become an indispensable and important condiment for the utilization of animal food. Of course, at the same time, it is not difficult to imagine the following points: First, Jia Sixie was born in the 5th-6th century, and what he saw and heard was mainly popular in the social phenomena and customs in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River; Secondly, Jia Sixie collected and recorded at least the folk traditions below the Han Dynasty. As for some documents that he witnessed and now lost, it is natural for Jia Sixie to record their historical contents. Thirdly, The Book of Qi Yaomin should be incomplete in three aspects: not the overall situation of China at that time, not the overall situation of northern China, and not all the information records of historical inheritance and learning. Today, however, we are very grateful to Jia Sixie, because in the troubled history of China, which despised "raising children and preventing women" and books, we were really lucky to see Qi Yao Min's book, which recorded people's livelihood and food. Obviously, Jia Sixie was not the initiator of such words as "clear sauce", "fermented bean juice" and "clear fermented bean juice", but he only recorded these common sayings and idioms. For example, in Cao Zhi's famous seven-step poem, "Boil beans for soup, and black beans for juice" 49. Obviously, "Douchi is used as juice" should be understood as a poem of "Douchi juice".

Historical appellations such as "clear sauce" have been used up to now, which is one of the historical characteristics of China soy sauce culture, and the word "soy sauce" reappeared during this period. The word "soy sauce" is clearly recorded in historical documents. What we see today is in the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, the word "soy sauce" often appeared in the records of literati. For example, in the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Shi (1036 ~101) recorded his life experience of cleaning ink stains with vinegar, soy sauce or wick: "The gold letterhead and fan-shaped words were wrongly written, so vinegar or soy sauce was replaced. Lin Hong, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote Du Fu's Spring Leeks Cut in the Night Rain, which is often mistaken for being cut at the border. I don't know the word "cut" is very reasonable: when covering the border, it must be neat first (such as cooking garden, which means the head of Chyi Yu), so hold it in your left hand and stand on its original position. However, it must be cut with a bamboo knife. If the leek is tender, add some shredded ginger, soy sauce and vinegar to help drain the water and cure strangulation. The appearance of the word' soy sauce' in "5 1" has special significance. This significance lies not only in the emergence of a more standardized and refined title for China soy sauce, but also in the updated content of historical and cultural connotation under this new title. The appearance of the word "soy sauce" is a logical reflection of scientific and technological progress in the history of soy sauce in China. After the word "soy sauce" appeared, it gradually replaced the phenomenon of "clear sauce" and other appellations, which is undoubtedly the process of soy sauce entering the daily life of ordinary people more widely. In the meantime, although the word "clear sauce" still stays at the oral language expression level of people's secular life in some northern areas to a certain extent, its meaning is completely different from the original meaning of "clear sauce" in the four-person monthly order and Qi Yaomin's book before the Tang Dynasty and after the Han and Wei Dynasties. Later, there were soybean oil 52, soybean oil 53, autumn oil 54, mother oil 55, wheat oil 56, oil 57, oil cover 58, soy sauce 59, and soy sauce, which is still popular in modern times. All these fully illustrate China's colorful soy sauce culture and China people's profound and unique understanding of soy sauce taste.

Second, the historical evolution and significance of China soy sauce brewing technology after the Tang Dynasty.

The book Four Seasons, written by Tang people, first recorded the innovation and change of China soy sauce production technology to the tradition of Han Dynasty and even earlier. Before the Tang Dynasty, the traditional production technology of China sauce was to make the sauce mash first, then add the mash and mix the beans. "Four Seasons" first recorded the drying method of "sauce yellow", that is, wheat and beans were combined into "sauce yellow" and dried for later use, so the two processes of making bream and mixing beans, which have been passed down for many years, were combined into one. Up to now, the practice of "sauce blank+water+salt" that people have kept in their homes has been developed on the basis of this method. The production method of "soy sauce" is also produced on the basis of this technology. The record of the book is as follows:

A bucket of bean yellow, washed in pottery for three times, soaked overnight, percolated out and steamed. Pour it down and stir it with two barrels of five liters of flour, so that the flour is covered with bean yellow. Steam it again, so that the face is familiar, but the atmosphere is scattered, waiting like a human body. Spread the ground with rice leaves, put bean yellow on it, spread it well, cover it with rice leaves, and it will not be thick. On the third or fourth day, the clothes turn yellow all over, that is, they are dried and put away. When mixing the sauce, add a bucket of water and five liters of salt to each barrel to make a salt soup, such as human body, filter it, and put the yolk in a jar to seal it. After seven days, stir, take three ounces of pepper, put it in a silk bag and put it in an urn. Add a catty of cooked cold oil and a liter of wine, and it will be cooked in ten days. Tastes like meat sauce. It is especially good to take out its peppers in three or two months, dry them in the sun and adjust the tripod. 60

This "all-koji-making" fermentation process, in which all raw materials such as beans and flour participate in koji-making, is not only an innovation in the traditional koji-making process of China soy sauce, but also a technical guarantee for China soy sauce to break through the "clear sauce" mode of directly extracting sauce. The historical fact that sauces such as "clear sauce" are widely used in Qi Yaomin's Book quoted above shows that the social demand for clear sauce should be great, although the purchasing power of ordinary people is actually limited. However, the large-scale production of soy sauce will inevitably produce a lot of sauce residue, which not only increases the cost of soy sauce production, but also is an unacceptable food waste for China society where people have been struggling for food. Therefore, under the historical conditions of the Middle Ages, there are only two theoretical outlets for the development of soy sauce production: one is the great abundance and low price of raw materials, and the other is the technological development to improve the utilization rate of limited raw materials. The self-sufficient small-scale peasant production mode determines that the first way out does not actually exist. So we can only explore the second way to save raw materials. The emergence of "full koji making" technology is obviously of great significance to strengthen the enzymatic hydrolysis of microorganisms and improve the utilization rate of raw materials. After the appearance of "all-koji-making" technology, it soon became a common method of making Chinese sauce among the people and replaced it as a traditional method. Lu Mingshan's Summary of Agriculture, Mulberry, Food and Clothing in Yuan Dynasty is a proof of this: 6 1.

However, the earliest document we can see today is Compendium of Materia Medica published by Li Shizhen in the 24th year of Ming Shenzong Wanli (15 18 ~ 1593). The book Compendium of Materia Medica records the preparation of soy sauce as follows: "Soy sauce includes soybeans, adzuki beans, peas and soybean oil. Soybean oil method: use three buckets of soybeans, boil them in water and turn them yellow with 24 kilograms of flour. Every 10 kg, 8 kg of salt and 40 kg of well water are added, stirred and dried into oil, and collected. " Interestingly, the Compendium of Materia Medica calls "soy sauce" "soybean oil". The "soybean oil" here is obviously soy sauce rather than the "soybean oil" that people use as edible oil today. Compendium of Materia Medica records that soy sauce is "soybean oil", which should be very intriguing. I think it can be explained as follows:

1. The term "soybean oil" refers to "soy sauce", which is a social title in the history of soy sauce in China in the16th century.

Second, the "soy sauce" made by the method of "full koji making" is called "soybean oil", which has three meanings: 1, and this "oil" comes from "beans"; 2. "Oil" is the essence of "bean"; 3. Since16th century, soy sauce in China has been dominated by soybeans. This is also in line with Li Shizhen's quotation from Tao Hongjing (456 ~ 536) that "soy sauce is mostly made of beans, and pure wheat is less".

Thirdly, according to Li Shizhen's statement that "soy sauce belongs to soybean, adzuki bean, pea and soybean oil", it shows that China soy sauce and China soy sauce are still closely related in production form and technology in Li Shizhen era.

After Li Shizhen, a large number of literatures about soy sauce appeared, the most important of which are: The Moon Rising by Daixi in the late Ming Dynasty;

Use 20 Jin of good flour for each bucket of big soybeans. Boil the beans first, put them in water and put a palm on them. Cook, spread and cool, and leave the juice. Mix beans and noodles evenly in a large basin, dry (and then) pour juice, so that beans, noodles and juice are drained and granulated. Spread it on the door, use reed mats from top to bottom, and spread bean yellow in the middle pot. Then clamp it with a clamp, heat it and remove the quilt. Serve the bean table in three days. Take it out until July 17, and spread it out with a single cloth; Sun drying, dust, mold and dust should not be abandoned and washed. When sowing, sieve one catty of soybeans, one catty of salt and six liters of fresh cold well water, mix them evenly, and expose them to the sun at night until they are ripe. Sift the juice with a sieve and let it stand and listen. Its bean powder (? ) and mud feet, or add half salt and half water as before, and dry them before taking them. Beans are extremely salty, so you can chop up all vegetables and radishes, mix well and dry them in the sun. It can be used to make lobster sauce, but it is a little deaf to sand and mud. 63

Mix vegetable oil, use sesame oil, add pepper, and cook pepper once or twice first; When it is cold, add half a catty of soy sauce and vinegar to every catty of oil, and a penny of sugar, San Qian and licorice. Everything is mixed with oil, just the right amount of vegetables, which is wonderful. 64

Steam shad, remove intestines and scales, wash with coarse tea, wipe blood with cloth, and cut into large pieces. Spread the vegetables first, put the fish, and then cover them with fresh bamboo shoots and minced meat. Crush a little pepper and Amomum villosum, add a catty of wine, pour in soy sauce and vinegar, and cook in a heavy soup pot. 65

Gu Zhong's "keeping a small notebook" in the early Qing Dynasty;

Soy sauce: red beans are steamed into bowls and chunks, which should be dry and not wet. Cover it with grass and put it in a warm place, and dry it with white film. By February of the following year, grind half a slice with white beans, peel the orange, boil it in water overnight, and use a water mill (not too much water). Wash the old noodles with water, dry them in the sun, roll them into powder, fry them, mix with salt as appropriate, and put them in a jar. The sun is red, use another jar with a thin bamboo grate at the bottom, put the sauce on the grate and pour the soy sauce; Pick it up and cook it in the pot. Put it in a large pot, and the more you bask in it, the better. The remaining sauce is used to make pickles and tomatoes.

Another method: Boil soybeans or black beans until they are rotten, and add bean juice to white flour to make it hard, which can be made into cakes or nests. Cover Artemisia annua, yellow grind, add salt soup, and sun it into a paste. Earn out the lower part of the jar with a bamboo grate, store the sauce on the table and drain the soy sauce.

The secret recipe for making soy sauce: a barrel of good bean dregs, very cooked and steamed, and a barrel of good bran, stirred; Become a yellow children. A catty of licorice is fried in thick soup, about fifteen or sixteen catties, and two and a half catties of good salt are put into the jar. Sun-dried, filtered to remove residue, and placed in an urn. The longer it is, the fresher it is, and it will be unbeaten for several years.

Urgent soy sauce: five liters of wheat bran, three liters of wheat flour, fried red and yellow; Ten Jin of salt water, plus soy sauce. 66

The most detailed written record is Li Huanan's "Wake Up the Garden":

Boil the black beans badly first, take them out and warm them a little. Add white flour and mix well (3 kg of flour per bucket of beans, but not more than 5 kg). Spread them out half an inch thick, cover them with cloth and eat whatever you want. When it's moldy and hairy, it will dry after seven days. It will be hot for five or six days, but it will be cool for six or seven days. The more hair, the better. But don't let it rot. When the weather is fine, dry it with cold tea soup (if it is mixed with tea soup, I hope it is sweet, not limited to several times, the more the better). 1 kg of bean curd, 2 kg of salt 14, 4 kg of water, boiled in salt, clarified, removed from the mud, air-cooled, and soaked in salt water for 49 days. If you want to be fragrant, you can add a little mushroom, star anise, pepper, shredded ginger and sesame. Take out the bean dregs, mix with salt water and boil again, and add water (one catty of water and three ounces of salt) as appropriate; Then take out three kinds of bean dregs, add salt water and boil again; Slag removal Then mix water once or twice at will, or air it for a few more days, or smoke it with chaff fire. Its bean dregs can also be used for home cooking. Squeezing: bean dregs are slightly dried in the sun, and spices are added to make fragrant fermented beans. ……

Another method: pick a bucket of soybeans at a time and boil them in water. The color is red. Even the bean juice is served. Use 24 kilograms of white flour for each bucket, mix well with soup beans, or divide bamboo willows, spread them out and flatten them. Put the barnyard grass in a windless room, cover it with straw, and after seven days, remove the grass, take it out of the sun, bring it back at night, and sun it again the next day for fourteen days. In rainy weather, it takes fourteen days to make up for it, and it is always extremely dry. This is also the practice of Huang Zhi sauce. When the mold is cured, the sauce will turn yellow. First, use five barrels of well water, accurately measure it and inject it into the cylinder. Then use 15 kg of raw salt for each bucket of sauce, weigh it, put the salt in a bamboo basket or basket, dissolve it in water, put it in a jar, and remove the dregs at the bottom. Then put the yellow sauce in the jar for three days, and turn it out with a wooden shovel the next morning (don't move while it is hot). After two days, if this method is repeated, it will be repeated three or four times. After drying for 20 days, it will become a clear sauce and can be eaten.

The best way to clear the sauce is to weave bamboo into a cylinder surrounded by bottomless mouths. Southerners are famous doctors. It is sold in Huaer City, Beijing, and can also be bought in Huaer City. Put the sauce in the jar when you are forced, and when you reach the bottom of the jar, dig out the mud sauce and gradually bottom out. Press the pot with bricks to prevent the sauce from floating up and the mud sauce from flowing into the bottom of the pot. Open the lid the next morning, only clear sauce. You can slowly dig it out in a bowl and put it in a clean jar. There is another place to bask, and then bask for half a month. The altar mouth must be wrapped with yarn or linen to prevent flies from being thrown in. If you want to cook more, you can increase the number of beans, noodles, water and salt. The clear sauce is ready, but it hasn't been soaked thoroughly. First, pick up half floating bean dregs and dry them, and you can make fragrant fermented beans.

Another method: yellow the whole piece of the previous method (yellow sauce, even the person who makes sweet sauce, see the previous article), first cool it with rice soup and get wet one by one; Do it like the law. Dry again, four or five degrees a day; If the sun is burning, I feel it will be better six or seven times until it turns red. (Sauce) Yellow is mixed with four or two salts and ten bowls of water per catty. Boil the salt water first, clarify and cool, soak the sauce yellow, and dry in the sun, that is, add the original amount of boiling water. Stir it from time to time, but don't break the yellow ear of the sauce. When it turns red, filter the salt water, add the fragrant herbs, star anise, fennel, pepper (whole core) and sesame (in a bag), fry for three or four times, add a small bottle of old wine, then roll it and put it in a jar to listen. Add salt to the residue, fry it in water as before, then sun it, fry it in a pot for a few times, and store it for cooking.

The production method of wheat oil (clear sauce): Wash the wheat, put it in a pot and add water to cook it, stew it dry, take it out, spread it on a big flat plate (the same below), expose it to the sun, stir it with chopsticks until it is half dry from time to time, carry it into a cool room and cover it with a flat cover. After three days, if the weather is too hot, the wheat will grow vigorously, and it will not be covered during the day and will still be covered at night; If the weather is not hot, the wheat is not very strong, but it is good to open the flat seam during the day; If the weather is hot and the wheat is not hot, that is, when the cover is right, don't be discouraged. After seven days, take it out and dry it. If a bucket is doubled, that's the best. It will be made into wheat yellow, and there will be green hair without bleaching with rice bran like soybean oil. (The following is similar to the "and law" clause, so it is omitted.)

Another way: make the wheat yellow as before. But when drying in the sun, you should rub it with your hands, winnow it off and grind it into fine flour. Ten catties of yellow, three catties of salt and ten catties of water. Boil the salt with water, remove the mud feet, and make a big piece with yellow noodles. It is neither hard nor soft to knead, just like making a cake. Put it in a jar and cover it. Open it the next day, hold water in one hand, sprinkle it one by one, and add water once in a sunny day until it can be stirred with a stick. Even if it rains, there will be no maggots. 67

Although the above quotation is a bit lengthy, we can still get a clear effect on the problem we want to explain. It is precisely because the "all-koji-making" process has achieved the ideal effect of not wasting any raw materials that it is possible to make China soy sauce a simple and easy folk way that ordinary families can brew, and thus it is possible to finally popularize soy sauce. As for using wheat as soy sauce (the same is true for soy sauce), it not only shows the regionality of people in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River and other southern regions in terms of food raw materials and tastes, but also probably cannot rule out the deep-seated factors of the difference in protein's source dependence between north and south people. For the achievements and characteristics of soy sauce brewing technology in China before modern science and technology, researchers have made a good summary: broadening the selection of raw materials, improving koji-making equipment, improving the extraction method of finished products, paying attention to the aroma of soy sauce, product hygiene and accumulating experience.

Thirdly, the history of China's "sauce garden" and soy sauce have entered the homes of ordinary people.

Before the introduction of modern science and technology and industrial production, the soy sauce production in China was basically a traditional "soy sauce garden" and a household consumption production mode. "Sauce Garden", also known as "Sauce Workshop", refers to the workshops or shops that made and sold sauces in the history of China. The reason why the sauce garden is a sauce workshop-production and processing and a sauce shop-is the same reference of two functions, which is the historical characteristics and limitations of China sauce culture or soy sauce culture. Because, under normal circumstances, the workshops that produce and process soy sauce or the shops that sell soy sauce in the history of China are very small in scale, and they are usually "front shops and back shops", integrating production and sales. In history, there are countless such sauce gardens in China. Every town with hundreds of settlements must have a sauce garden for people to live at home. As for Datong, its distribution should be counted as Daoli block. Among them, there are many famous shops with good management, traditional time-honored, high visibility and long history. For example, Liubiju, Huaimao, Yutang and Jimei, which are known as the four sauce gardens in Jiangbei, are representatives. Among them, Beijing's "Six Habitats" is the most typical. According to the newspaper data in the 1920s, there are no fewer than 140 sauce gardens in Beijing, and the "Liubiju sauce garden" founded in the 9th year of Jiajing in Ming Dynasty (1530) is the best. In addition, there are well-known Jingpai sauce gardens, such as Guixinzhai (1736) built in the first year of Qing Qianlong, Wang Zhihe Nanjiangyuan (1678) built in the seventeenth year of Qing Kangxi, and Tianyuan sauce garden (1869) built in the eighth year of Qing Tongzhi. The other three of the four sauce gardens in Jiangbei are the tenth year of Kangxi in Qing Dynasty (167 1), Yutang sauce garden in Jining, Shandong Province (17 14) and Jimei sauce garden in Linqing. Jining Yutang Sauce Garden, thanks to the convenient transportation, is sold all over the world under the blessing of the North-South Grand Canal, and its pickles are known as "famous in Beijing, and the taste is better than Jiangnan." At the same time, Liubiju in Beijing, Zhimeizhai in Guangzhou, Jiuruzhai in Changsha and Sanhe Sauce Garden in Yangzhou (or Guan Sheng Garden in Shanghai) are also known as the four major sauce gardens in China. In short, in modern times, there are countless well-known sauce gardens in China, such as Hengshun sauce garden in Zhenjiang in 1926, Jingyangguan sauce garden in Hangzhou in the 33rd year of Guangxu (1907) and Renchang sauce garden in Shaoxing in the 18th year of Guangxu (1892). Guangzhou Zhimeizhai Soy Sauce Garden, which was built in the reign of Qianlong in Qing Dynasty (1736 ~ 1795), was founded in the sixth year of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty (1880) and the Longguan Soy Sauce Garden in Qianwan in Shanghai in the twelfth year of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty (1886). Of course, in history, the fact that the Chinese sauce garden exists is much earlier than the name "sauce garden". At least the scene of "the capital is a big city, and the village brews sour sauce a thousand times at one year old" recorded by Sima Qian in the Historical Records of the Han Dynasty is 70 ... and the salt sauce is a thousand times ",which is a real record of the very active development of the urban sauce garden economy before the 22 nd century. As for the popularity of the 7 1 proverb "Seven things to get up in the morning, rice, oil, salt, sauce and vinegar tea" in the homes of urban residents in the Yuan Dynasty, it is a vivid historical reflection of the high development of urban sauce garden culture. The "sauce" here, as far as urban residents are concerned, should generally refer to two kinds of sauce and soy sauce, not just one of them, or even mainly to soy sauce instead of soy sauce. This is because the original intention of "seven things to open the door, rice, oil, salt, sauce and vinegar tea" means that people have essential basic expenses in their daily home life-they all have to spend money to get by, that is to say, they all have to rely on the market and exchange. Since every household can brew soy sauce-as the saying goes, "a hundred sauces are tasted a hundred times", people's demand for soy sauce can only be bought in the soy sauce garden. "Add a little soy sauce when cooking white" has become a simple and interesting habit for urban residents to make and eat many dishes in the history of China. Before 1980s, the food and drink life of many ordinary families in Chinese mainland was extremely difficult. The average monthly consumption of a family of five is usually less than 65,438+0 kg of soy sauce. Everyone who has experienced from that poor era has unforgettable feelings. The author's own experience, which I often hear among my peers, makes everyone feel: "At that time, soy sauce tasted delicious." Soy sauce is really an important and delicious food for ordinary people.

Many sauce gardens are scattered all over the capital, which not only facilitates the needs of people living in the city and guests from four places, but also decorates the city culture, making it colorful and full of vitality. Taking Changsha as an example, we can see that the sauce garden culture in Changsha has a long history. There is a record of "four assets of salt and sauce" in the dispatching strategy of Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb. Although the unearthed Douchi ginger has a history of more than 2000 years, its quality and color can still be distinguished. The commercial operation of Changsha Soy Sauce Garden began in the Shunzhi period in the early Qing Dynasty (1644 ~ 16 1), and there were four gangs in Suzhou, Hunan, Nanjing and Zhejiang, which developed to 36 in the late Qing Dynasty. The "Yu He Sauce Garden" initiated by Subang was established in the sixth year of Shunzhi (1649). It is the oldest sauce garden in Changsha, with five workshops of sauce, vinegar and wine. After that, Subang has opened one after another for a long time, including Integration, Songmaoheng, Cai and Heyuan Chunfang. The "Demaolong Sauce Garden" was founded by Hunan Gang in Tongzhi for three years (1864). There are Dai Tongxing, Wang Hexin and Dai Tongxing in the South Gang, among which Dai Tongxing is the largest. Dai Tongxing was founded in the first year of Jiaqing (1796). There are four gangs in Zhejiang: Wu Yuantai, South Wu Hengtai, Wu Donghengtai and North Wu Hengtai. Wu Hengtai, the North Gate established by 19 13, is the first commercially developed one.