Types of robes

Types and origins of monk's clothes Author: Sakyamuni Chang Yuan

Robe (five clothes, seven clothes, coat, dung sweeping, robe, robe)

"cassock" is Sanskrit, and it was not until Ge Hong wrote the word garden in the Jin Dynasty that it was changed to "cassock". "Robe" is also called "Robe Field" or "Garosha Tuo", which means "turbid, bad color, abnormal color, red color" or "dyed".

The cassock is the "cassock" of monks and nuns, named after the "color" of clothes; Therefore, it can also be called "dirty clothes" or "dirty clothes" because the sewing method of "cassock" requires cutting the cloth into pieces before sewing it; So it can be called "chop suey" or "tailoring". According to the 40th law of quadruple random karma, "cassock" was sewed by Ananda Buddha to imitate the shape of rice fields. Shi Tian grows grain to make a living. In the field of vestments, long-term cultivation of dharma wisdom is worthy of Futian in the world; So it is also called "Tianxiangyi" and "Futian Yi".

The system of "cassock" also has certain truth and significance. First: India is located in the tropics and people wear white clothes. Buddhism requires clothes to be dyed to distinguish monks from customs. Second: white vulgar clothes are more vivid; The color of the cassock is not good, not good-looking. Third: Cutting and sewing can be sold as Du Fangdian and cannot be used for other purposes. Fourth: Contamination and chop suey can remove the psychology of loving beauty. Fifth: Cutting and dyeing can prevent thieves from taking clothes.

Although "cassock" is named after "color", there are different opinions on its color.

The three colors are cyan, black (or "mud color and soap color") and magnolia (or "alizarin color, overlapping color, red, multicolor and uneven color"). These three colors are the colors of cassock.

There is an explanation for the so-called "bad color": "blue-black magnolia" is "bad color" Any color of a bhikkhu is regarded as "similar to the law". Another explanation is that "blue, black and magnolia" must be mixed together to be considered "bad color" Another explanation is that "green" and the other five colors must be mixed together to be a "bad color". -For example, the Sanskrit, a Buddhist master, said: "The cassock is a colorless cloud. It means that five colors such as green are mixed with each other and dyed into an unhealthy color, which is called' bad color'. "

In the eighth volume of Bodhi Mother Sutra, the monk's clothes are faded, and the Buddha's ears are stained with ten colors: one is mud, the other is Shiva's skin, the third is Shiva's skin, the fourth is not grass, the fifth is Ganduo, the sixth is walnut root, the seventh is Amogoku, the eighth is Fatuopi, the ninth is Shiva's skin, and the tenth is variegated.

There are still some explanations about the color of cassock, so I can't introduce them more for the time being. To sum up, the main purpose of dyeing Buddhist cassock is to "destroy its shape and make monks and customs different". For example, the Brahma Sutra says: "No matter where the country is, the costumes of monks must be different from those of their compatriots."

The material for making cassock is called "body" or "material". On this item, the Buddhist system also has some regulations. According to Article 14 of the Law on Good Knowledge, Vipo Sha. There are six kinds of materials such as Qumo, Gubei, Kunaiye, Chimbora, Dina and Poxingjia. Article 16 of "On Pipa Living in the Sand" quoted six kinds of materials such as "grabbing shells, cooking, eating, drinking, kenaf and white hemp". The seventh substance listed in Article 28 of the Maha Monk Law is "Chimbora, Jebel, Chumo, Jiesheye, Ashe, Hemp and Muti". According to article 39 of the quadrant method, there are ten substances.

In addition, article 16 of "On Neipo Shaju" mentioned the name of "dung-sweeping clothes". This kind of clothes, according to the Tibetan scriptures of the Ministry of Ahan, are made of cloth pieces used to pick up bodies in bags from the wilderness, or other worn-out cloth pieces, washed and sewn.

There are three main types of "cassock", which are "five clothes, seven clothes and coats", collectively referred to as "three clothes". Now they are introduced respectively in the following:

First, "Five Clothes": "Five Clothes" Sanskrit "An Tuohui", literally translated as "Dressing". This dress is made of five pieces of cloth, one is long and the other is short, and the interval is ten pieces.

Two, Seven Clothes: Seven Clothes, Sanskrit, Yuduoluo Monk, literally translated as coat. This dress is made of seven pieces of cloth, each piece of cloth is two long and one short, with 2 1 interval.

3. "Coat": "Coat" means "Sinhalese" in Sanskrit, which literally means "gathering clothes" or "coat". This dress is divided into nine categories. -Nine "poor quality", eleven "poor quality" and thirteen "poor quality". These three kinds of clothes are both long and short. 15 "poor quality", 17 "medium quality" and 19 "medium quality". These three kinds of clothes are three long and one short. Twenty-one "Shang Xia Pin", twenty-three "Shang Zhong Pin" and twenty-five "Shang Ding Pin". These three kinds of clothes are all four long and one short. These nine-grade coats: nine "inferior" coats, each with three sections, counting 27 sections. And even the "top grade" 25, each four long and one short, * * * meter one hundred and twenty-five intervals.

Usage of "three clothes": "five clothes" are generally used when lying up. It is said that it is also used for work, so it is also called "work clothes". However, in China, monks and nuns wear Hanfu trousers jackets to work, instead of "five clothes". "Seven clothes" are used for listening to scriptures, chanting scriptures, ceremonies, or mass gatherings, so they are also called "wearing clothes". The "coat" is used for saying, arguing, karma, or welcoming the king.

According to Article 28 of Maha Monk Law and Article 7 of Quadrant Law, the sewing method of "Sanfu" is described in detail.

The original "cassock" was not equipped with a "clothes hook". Later, Buddhist disciple Sharifutsu entered the White House for fear that the wind would blow the cassock to the ground. Because of this karma, the Buddha listened to the monks in Xu Zhu and tied the cassock on his left shoulder and chest. Put on a nail hook to fasten the cassock. Later, it evolved into a "wishful" shape such as "clothes hook and clothes ring".

"Three clothes" must be worn three times. Depending on the hot or cold weather, you can wear one, two or three. If it is too cold at night, you can also cover your body with an "overcoat".

In addition to "three clothes", there is another kind called "golden cassock" or "golden robe"; This "cassock" is actually a kind of "coat", but its material is very precious and it is woven with gold thread. There are different opinions about the origin of this "golden robe". According to Han Jing, the inscription "Zhangmen" on the statue of Zen Forest was quoted, and the "Golden Robe" was a "cassock" presented to the Buddha by his aunt, Mrs. Mohobo Amboti. According to the Sutra of Bodhisattva, the "Golden Robe" is a "cassock" made of 84,000 gold threads, which is dedicated to the Buddha with the blessing of heaven and man.

The "cassocks" mentioned above are all "vestments" used by monks and nuns. In addition to those, there is also a kind of "cassock" called "hoodie". This "vestment" is made of a large piece of cloth, and is used for "new nuns" who have not been ordained at home and for men and women who have been ordained at home. Because they haven't got the "big precept" of becoming monks, they can't bear to "bless the world". Therefore, the "clothes" they use can't be sewn into "Tianxiang". There is also the Sami generation who are not familiar with the methods of cutting and making clothes, so they wear "pull clothes".

Furthermore, there are certain patterns in dressing, pulling clothes (taking off robes), taking clothes and folding clothes, and at the same time, we must recite "mantra". These ceremonies are explained in detail in Chapter 3 (Dressing Ceremony) of the Buddhist Ritual Description. Here, not much narrative.

Everything mentioned above is related to the Fu Tong rule of "cassock". After Buddhism came to the east, the original image of "cassock" has been somewhat damaged due to the shift of space and the change of time! The current "cassock": the format is reduced, and the material is more and more flashy; When you use it, you just turn around and put it on your shoulder.

Finally, I need to remind you of the advantages of cassock. -According to the altar training, "Five clothes show greed and clean body." . All seven clothes are torn and the net mouth is clean. Clothes and fields, how long and how short, indicate the increase or decrease of saints. And the table is broken, and the net meaning is also. The Sutra of Sorrow for China says: "The Buddha wishes to become a Buddha before he treasures the Buddha. There are five merits in the cassock. One: Entering the French Open and committing serious crimes such as Jaken; In a moment, respect for the heart will be remembered in three transgressions. Celestial Dragons Ghost, if you can respect this cassock and score less points, you will get three times and never come back. Three: "If there are ghosts and gods, you have to have a cassock or even four inches to eat. Four: All sentient beings are against each other, so we should learn from their strength and seek mercy. Five: If you hold this (cassock) less points, respect it and respect it, and always win him. " (Excerpt from Stone Summary)

According to the Tripitaka: "The dragon gets the cassock, and each wears less points, that is, to avoid the difficulty of the golden-winged bird." The Ten Round Scriptures of Tibet said: "There was a prisoner who was sentenced, tied up and dumped in the wilderness. Pointing at the top of your head, you can avoid the difficulties of ghosts. " Another cloud said, "When the monk is away, there are macaques playing cassock; Jump for joy and fall into the valley, and life will eventually be born in heaven. After the 90 th robbery, the world painted. " Agama said: "The shabby robes are unbearable and more useful, hanging in the wilderness of Shan Ye; People, livestock, birds and beasts are blessed when they see it. "

The "cassock" is a symbol of Buddhism and a manifestation of saints. Is it unusual to compare its advantages and disadvantages? I don't blame the emperor shunzhi, the Lord of the Qing Dynasty, for praising him, saying that "gold and jade are not expensive, but wearing robes is the most difficult"!

bedclothes

"Bedding" is also one of the clothes made by Buddha. Shi's main point is that his Vatican name is "altar". Basically, Peneyer said, its Vatican name is "Sidana". Among the related ancient books, some are translated as "mat" or "bedding", and some are translated as "clothes" or "clothes with the mat". There are also "tools" for short.

According to the measurement of "furniture", according to the statue of Zen forest, people who meet tall people are also allowed to enlarge the tangential sides as appropriate.

The color of "Ju" needs to be dyed as bad as the cassock. The so-called "bad color" means "stained color". The material of "furniture" should be old cloth, which will destroy its aesthetic feeling.

The sewing method of "Ju" is to sew two pieces of cloth by overlapping them and sticking cloth strips on four sides. According to the Japanese Dojo master (the author of The Elephant in the Zen Forest), sticking cloth on all sides may be to destroy its beauty.

What is the purpose of "furniture"? Daoxuan lawyers in the Tang Dynasty believed that "vessels" were used by worshippers. Master Yijing said: "Living" is for sitting and lying down, not suitable for worshipping Buddha. -Two good people. They have their own evidence.

According to the law, "furniture" is also an instrument that monks must carry with them. When you use it, you should spread it yourself and put it away yourself. You can't fake your hands on others. When carrying, fold it and put it under the left arm cassock, or put it in a clothing bag. As for the gestures of "lifting, exhibition and lifting" in etiquette, it is not easy to express them in words. It is better for someone to do "demonstration actions".

The Buddhist Sutra on the Ring of the Altar, written by Daoxuan, once said: "The altar of Nishi, like a tower, has a foundation, and when you become a monk, you are bound by the ring, that is, the tower of five dharma bodies." If we realize from here, "residence" still has sacred significance!

Christina

"Hai Qing" is one of the main costumes of monks in China. Its style: wide waist and sleeves, round neck and square front, much fatter than other clothes. Therefore, it is often called "big robe".

The word "Christina" has an etymological explanation: "Wuzhong called the man with wide sleeves" Christina ". According to Li Bai's poem:' Wide-sleeved dancing is like a bird from the East'. Gaiyan's wide-sleeved dance is like Haidong Julia. Today, it is also called "Hai Qing". According to Silent Singing written by Master Xing Yun, "Christina is the name of a carved bird. She is handsome and elegant, and often flies around the Liaodong seaside, which looks like a big sleeve of a shirt. So I borrowed the name of the sea bluebird as the robe name. "

The clothing style of "Christina" originally came from the clothing style of China during the Han and Tang Dynasties. In the past, monks and nuns wore it. However, due to the evolution of the world trend and the change of lifestyle, the secular masses have already changed into "formal clothes" and "suits", and even wore colorful "fashions".

Buddhism respects the ancient system, and the life of "monks" is relatively conservative. At the same time, in order to clean up appearance and solemn morality, "Christina" is not a "cassock", but it can still be worn today.

Although "Christina" was born out of Hanfu, it still has some characteristics. The collar of Christina is made of three layers of cloth. This is called "three treasures collar". There are fifty-three blue lines in the front and middle section of the collar; This is called "fifty-three ginseng of the lucky boy" These words, in fact, are all talk in a mirror. In fact, it is nothing more than to strengthen the durability of the collar. In addition, the cuffs of vulgar robes are open, while the cuffs of "Christina" are sewn up. This is also the difference between a monk robe and a vulgar robe.

"Christina" sews cuffs, and there is also a Fu Shuo. It is said: "Liang Wudi's empresses and Xi's empresses don't believe in Buddhism, and they often try their best to falsely accuse monks and nuns. Once, she ordered the imperial secretary to make some pork buns, and invited Master Baozhi and his disciples to fast with them. To cause monks to break the precepts and humiliate Buddhism. If the monks didn't eat it at that time, it would constitute a crime against the will of the queen. Master Bao Zhi, a Taoist monk, had predicted his intention. So he ordered his disciples to sew Christina's cuffs first and hide the steamed bread in the sleeves. At the palace luncheon, put the steamed bread in the empty sleeve with one hand and take it out with the other. In this way, I escaped Xi's trick. " -Whether this Fu Shuo is true or not remains to be verified.

Colors like "navy" have always been dominated by cyan and black. Only a few aristocratic elders, such as "abbot, chief priest, mage ...", wear Tan's Christina.

Among the monks in China, besides the cassock, Christina is the most respected monk costume. Wearing "Christina" is mostly in important occasions such as "chanting, listening to scriptures, meeting guests, talking about business" and meeting elders.

Because Christina is huge and uses too much cloth; And it's loose and wobbly, so it's not convenient to move. At the same time, it is not a "Buddha system"; Therefore, since modern times, some people have proposed reforms. During the Republic of China, Master Taixu and others advocated the new monk's clothing. But at the same time, some people hold the opposite opinion. It is considered that Fu Tong's service style is solemn and solemn, and it is not appropriate to talk lightly about reform. Therefore, in the case of "different opinions", there is still no conclusion.

Long shirt, two shirts, three shirts.

"Robe" is also one of the costumes of monks and nuns in China. Its style is made up of the waist and sleeves of "Sambo Collar" and "Cheongsam". The button is on the right side of the armpit. The colors of the "dress" are black, gray and brown. Length of "robe": it is called "robe" when it reaches the instep. Those above the knee are called "two shirts". Those below the knee are called "three shirts"

"Long gown" is the outing costume of monks and nuns, which is the most popular in Central China and South China. "Ershan" is generally worn in temples. "Three shirts" are for work. In the past 40 years, "robes" have been the most popular among Buddhists in Taiwan Province Province. As for the "two shirts" and "three shirts", they have long since disappeared.

Lohan jacket

Since the Republic of China, China's folk costumes have gradually become simple and applicable. It's just that the clothes of monks and nuns are still so loose that it's not convenient to move. Therefore, some monks intend to reform it. Master Tai Xu also designed a new type of long clothes and shorts. The dress he designed is just knee-deep. This collar is sewn by overlapping two layers of cloth. Double-breasted buttons are opened in the middle of the chest, and the buttons are nailed on the edge of the double-breasted buttons. This gown was originally called "Taixu Gua" because it was advocated by Taixu Master. But in recent years, it has been renamed "Lohan Jacket" everywhere.

"Lohan jacket" not only saves cloth, but also is convenient to move. But its style and style are not as solemn and elegant as that kind of oversized gown. So there are still few people wearing them.

Shorts and pants

"Shorts": the upper body is short and the lower body is fat pants. This kind of underwear is the inner robe of Chinese monks and nuns, which is worn under the "robe". At the same time, it is also used as "pajamas".

The length of the blouse is too long for the hips. Its cutting style is exactly the same as that of the double-breasted "Lohan Jacket". In the past, this was biased. "Pants" were originally folk pants in ancient China, but they were longer and fatter. When you wear it, you must put the trouser legs under your knees into the monk's socks.

Heshangxie

Because India is located in the tropics, it is generally believed that monks and nuns never wore shoes when Sakyamuni was alive. Actually, it's not. According to the Buddhist scriptures of digging Moro, if there is a donor, it is useful to sell the cow to the butcher, buy the skin and let people make leather. According to Shimengui Jing Yi, "In Tianzhu, the land is hot and humid. Take leather as a guide and let it serve you. If you see the Lord, you will be removed. " According to these textual researches, we can know that Buddhist monks and nuns in ancient India were allowed to wear shoes.

Our country belongs to cold and warm areas, so people need to wear shoes to keep out the cold. About the use of shoes. There are already some provisions in the ancient books, such as daily norms, four-point law, clearing rules, ancestral courts and so on.

There are roughly three kinds of shoes worn by monks and nuns in China: one is "awn shoes", which are woven from grass, so they are also called "straw shoes". Monks who used to live in the countryside or mountains of the mainland usually wear these shoes. The second kind is "Lohan shoes", which are made of cloth. The vamp and toe of this kind of shoes are sewn firmly with three pieces of cloth, and some square holes are sewn on the vamp, which is similar to the style of "mango shoes". Now everyone who becomes a monk wears these shoes. It is said that this kind of shoes has the meaning of teaching people to see through everything. The third kind is "monk shoes", which are also made of cloth. There is no hole in this kind of shoe, but a hard beam is sewn at the front end of the upper. This kind of "monk shoes" style is no different from the secular "casual shoes".

"Lohan shoes" and "monk shoes" are actually "monk shoes". The colors of "monk shoes" are black, gray, yellow and brown, among which yellow and brown seem to be considered more noble.

Monk socks

In our country, monks and nuns wear long-tube "monk socks" in addition to "monk shoes". The so-called "monk socks" are actually socks in ancient China; Now some people call it "Lohan socks". The color of "Lohan socks" is traditionally dominated by gray. Wearing "Lohan socks" can not only keep out the cold in winter, but also prevent insects and snakes in summer; But also dignified and dignified.

Speaking of the system of "monk socks", there is also a source. The quartering says, "listen to socks." Shi said, "Qian Yun: socks are clothes, too." He also said: "Interpretation of the name cloud: socks are always the same; At the end of the foot. " Another Ma Su of the Five Dynasties wrote a note about China in ancient and modern times, saying, "In the Three Dynasties and the Zhou Dynasty, you wore' horn socks' to tie your ankles. In Wei Wendi, Wu Fei has changed.