Yunnan, the fun of literati ink painting

Tips: You need to have enough love for words to understand this article. Because there are too many words? ……)?

A long time ago, we discussed such a topic: If you find a place to live, regardless of worldly complexity, with sunshine, rain and dew, amiable people and beloved people, where would you choose? Undoubtedly, Yunnan is the choice of most people.

And my standard is nothing more than three points. There is food that suits my appetite, the weather here is just right, and the scenery here is just right for me. No way, it is still a good choice for people to escape from Yunnan. It has sunny days and cold snowy mountains. It has vast plateau and mild grassland. It has the romance of Dali, but it also has the simplicity and generosity of architectural water ... Whether it is Dali or Lijiang, Tengchong or Shangri-La, there is a poetic romance defined by literati, here is the happy rivers and lakes written by Jin Yong, and here is the old Wang Man's Zeng Qi chanting.

Jin Yong's novel Tianlong Babu is about Dali Kingdom, starting with Duan Yu, the son of Nanwang in Dali Town, entering the mysterious Wuliang Mountain. But before he wrote Dali, he had never been to Dali, and based on his accumulated thinking about Yunnan, he described Dali as a fairyland on earth. He said that if he had been to Dali before writing, he might have written better. People are so fascinated by a place that even if they have never been to a place, they can still create an environment for their novels, which makes people feel deja vu. Think about it carefully, how much historical materials are needed to make people feel immersive. In Eight Dragons, Jin Yong vividly described the scenery and customs of Tianlong Temple (Chongsheng Temple), Dali Ancient City, Wuliangshan, Lancang River, Jianhu Lake, singing and dancing, Camellia and so on, although there were only a few strokes. He didn't describe the beauty here with a large section of scenery, but set off the culture and history here with vivid characters. Duan Yu is such a man of flesh and blood. Duan Yu, the king of Dali in history, was an excellent emperor with literary talent and superb military skills. During his reign, the country was stable, the economy was prosperous and he lived a long life, at the age of 94.

There are many temples in Dali, and there are many people with Buddhist karma in go to dali. Dali has Duan's nine emperors, who became monks here. Master Eden, who appeared in Jin Yong's Legend of the Condor Heroes and The Condor Heroes, became a monk in frustration.

Lijiang many years ago, before I went to Lijiang, was probably the spiritual home that everyone yearned for. Lijiang is always associated with many familiar writers. In the winter of 20 16, my friends and I went to the Lijiang River to participate in activities and listened to Da Bing's speech at the conference. I don't know much about Da Bing's written works, but his words infected me. "When it comes to Lijiang or Lhasa, many people will say-that place is too commercialized and disappointing! Why can't I accept this view so much! Whose hometown has not experienced the gradual process of commercialization from disorder to order? Lijiang and Lhasa are remote and poor minority areas, and they can only rely on tourism as a pillar industry to develop their economy. Don't local people have the right to enjoy the convenience brought by modernization? We have the right to live in the elevator room and take the elevator in our hometown. With 7-eleven, don't local people have the right to drink tap water? Is there no right to enjoy a comprehensive and normal business system? " I don't know when Lijiang has become a tourist destination for everyone, so people have placed some expectations on this destination, hoping that it will not be eroded by commercialization, that it will remain primitive as always, and that people there will pursue their ideals in a unpretentious way ... However, neither Lijiang nor Dali exist for your travel. Every era has its own scenes. Lijiang now is the scene in the eyes of post-80s and post-90s. No matter how simple and primitive it used to be, Lijiang now presents what the society has developed to the present. We can't travel through the past by time machine, even if it's only in the 1980s. Yes, the Apple phone in your pocket has been changed from generation to generation. Why do we Lijiang people basically rely on propaganda to communicate?

The writer Alai went to Lijiang in the 1980s. At that time, Sifang Street was really just a market. People sell livestock and agricultural products in the market. Cow dung, sheep dung and rotten vegetable leaves are everywhere on the ground. After the market is over, someone will open the floodgates and wash the streets clean. At that time, Lijiang was the shining Lijiang of the stone road in everyone's heart.

Later, Alai wrote "A Drop of Lijiang", which was included in the primary school Chinese textbook. In this article, the author turned himself into a drop of water, a piece of snow, crossed the caravan post road, crossed the Naxi village and ran on the meadow of Lijiang Bazi. He wrote: "I passed the jade shop with jasper like water. Passing a yard, an old man with a white beard and drooping chest was playing ancient music. After selling Naxi Dongba hieroglyphic calligraphy and painting shop. I want to stop and see how the word' water' is written in Dongba. " We are looking for Lijiang in the 1980s in Alai's works. Compared with Lijiang, which we have been to, there is not much change, except that there are more "silverware shops" and the "woman who waters flowers" has become the proprietress of the inn. The aunt who sells chicken bean powder cries loudly and has her own rhythm. In order to let you go to the "noisy Jinsha River" smoothly, there are people everywhere in Sifang Street to attract customers to send you there.

Can you say that the proprietress who opened the inn at that time was not happier and more comfortable than watering the flowers? Just like our parents who learn to use smart phones, when they think of the scene where someone had to walk over and knock on the door, they will sincerely sigh that social changes and technological progress have made people's lives more and more convenient and comfortable.

However, people who settled in Lijiang and opened inn tea did not complain. As the Lijiang gang who moved here from all directions, they have given up their wandering life in Yunnan and started a carefree and restless "old age" career in Xingwen Lane with their dogs every day. Just think about it. Lijiang people have used more modern living facilities, and those who came to Lijiang in those days finally found a reason to stay.

My affection for Jianshui is also very coincidental. This ancient city is completely different from Dali's high-profile Lijiang. It attracts people who really like it with simplicity and introversion. If you want to find a city in Yunnan that suits your temperament, Jianshui is it. It's a pity that my temper can't settle down. Even if I settle down in this favorite city, being at home around the world is still my most common state. I have to pay for my ever-changing ideas. Jianshui is a place where you can catch your breath when you are tired of flying. Go to a familiar shop to eat grass and sprout rice noodles, order baked tofu and chat with the boss's ice powder, or go to Zitao Street to see the new works of artists I interviewed ... and then I go to another city alone. Unlike Dali, there are not many foreign settlers in Jianshui. Few people talk about building water and then settling down. Jianshui has a magazine called Jianshui in my hometown, which is very affectionate. Therefore, Jianshui defines himself as a homesickness that is hard to give up. Most of the wanderers who have left their homes will eventually leave their leaves and return to their hometown to build water, where they will start a family and carry forward the cultural heritage left by their ancestors. There are essential differences between Huijianshui and go to dali. When most people grow up, they choose to leave their homes to find a more wonderful world. Where they can stay, there must be too much emotional traction, which is the deepest recognition of local culture and temperament.

1939, Wang Zengqi, 19 years old, the first choice was admitted to the China Literature Department of National Southwest Associated University. After graduating at the age of 24, I worked as a teacher for two years in China Jianshe Middle School run by the National The National SouthWest Associated University Students. Mr. Wang Lao's seven years in Kunming is undoubtedly an authentic Yunnan gang. Later, Wang Lao described his seven-year life in many words. Outside the west gate of Kunming. Rice market, vegetable market, meat market. Wooden bag, charcoal bag. Horse manure. Thick and thin porcelain bowl, casserole iron pot, braised chicken rice noodles, bait block. Money sliced legs, beef jerky. Cooking smoke, the suffocating smell of fried peppers.

Red, yellow, blue, white and black, sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty. "Mr. Wang is familiar with the scale of Kunming Teahouses." On Phoenix Street, there are teahouses run by women in selling groceries, new teahouses specially attracting college students, teahouses run by Shaoxing people and selling points, and teahouses run by father and son. There are fashion cafes with pictures of American movie stars on the streets of Linwen, and tea houses selling blood sausages; You can rent an old teahouse with hookah on Qianju Street. There is a teahouse with a glass for making tea in the government corridor, and Guangfa teahouse opened by Cantonese people. "Now, the bright colors he painted can only be imagined in his words. Now, if you want to see it carefully in Kunming, you may be a little sad. People always lament the lost years.

Speaking of Yunnan Gang, I have to mention Dong Zi, the innkeeper I met in Tengchong. We were just netizens at first, but we don't know why we met. We had a chat on the Internet. When my official WeChat account 20 18 was released, he was the first person to pay attention to it. I remember that the first article was about Adi's feelings, but occasionally I felt the same way. We added WeChat to each other when we interacted with the official WeChat account. It is also very predestined to want to come. When chatting, he will tell me his thoughts on how to operate the official WeChat account without reservation. It is really the greatest support and encouragement for me, although we are strangers.

Dong Zi's inn in Tengchong has opened to more than ten courtyards. He has been contracting the surrounding courtyards and subletting the inns that others can't do. Now he wants to live in an inn, which has become an accommodation brand in Tengchong. This time in Tengchong, he just opened a new real estate project in Jietou, and learned that he had lobbied the whole family to settle in Tengchong, and his children were also in primary school in Tengchong. To be sure, his love for this place has reached the point of obsession. Want to interview some of his impressions of Tengchong, basically can't catch his shadow. Later, I was relieved to learn that there were still people who couldn't catch his shadow and his wife and children. I didn't invite me to tea until the night before I left. It's already late at night, and it's estimated that I'll sleep until dawn after another cup of tea. Dong Zi sent someone from the inn to send me a book called Notes on Traveling in Yunnan. I watched it in the soft light for a long time until it was a little brighter. Is there no teahouse here?

I haven't contacted since I left Tengchong. One day, I had tea with the owner of Yangshuo backyard hotel. I, a bad drinker, have always remembered him in Yangshuo's red wine winery. When we talk about Tengchong, we know that he and Dong Zi have known each other for a long time, and there are also some short stories that happened in extreme places.

I feel relieved. Many fates may not be accidental. The encounter between people is always a movie-like coincidence. It is these experiences that make me unable to give up my fascination with travel and accommodation. I would like to spend my own time in your city, wandering in familiar and unfamiliar alleys, finding a seat for tea and a glass of red wine, chatting until dawn, listening to your story and being happy for this moment of meeting.

This is something I can't quit. I am obsessed with uncertain emotions, unexpected surprises and encounters in my life. This stop in Yunnan may be just the beginning.