What are the characteristics of chrysanthemum?

Chrysanthemum Also called chrysanthemum. It is a perennial herb of Compositae. It is cultivated all over the country. Location: Henan, Anhui, Zhejiang, Sichuan and other provinces. Take flowers as medicine. It is a commonly used Chinese medicine. The flowers, leaves and stems of chrysanthemum contain volatile oil, stevioside, adenine, choline, stachydrine, trace vitamins A and B, amino acids, Robinia pseudoacacia, borneol and 3,4-dihydroxyacetophenone. Sweet, bitter, slightly cold. Has the effects of nourishing liver, improving eyesight, expelling pathogenic wind and clearing heat. Indications: common cold, fever, headache, tinnitus, red eyes, sore throat and other symptoms.

I. Morphological characteristics

Plant height 60- 150 cm. The whole plant is densely covered with white fluff, the stem is erect, the base is slightly lignified and purplish, the upper part is multi-branched, and the young branches are slightly angular. Simple leaves alternate, petiolate, oval or oblong, 3.5-5 cm long and 3-4 cm wide, with notched and serrated edges, heart-shaped base and white fluff at the lower part. The head is terminal or axillary, 2.5-5 cm in diameter, with a hemispherical involucre, 3 or 4 bracts, green and hairy; Tongue-shaped flowers are inserted at the edge of inflorescence, with white tongue, reddish or lavender, stamen-free, pistil1; The tubular flower is located in the middle of the inflorescence, bisexual, yellow, 5-lobed at the top, 5 stamens, pistil 1, and lower ovary. Achenes are oblong and hairless (fig.18-13).

Fig. 18 —— 13 chrysanthemum morphological diagram.

1 .cuttlefish 2. Tongue flower 3. tubular flower

Second, biological characteristics.

(1) growth and development

Chrysanthemums wither in winter. Overwintering with perennial roots, underground stems are still developing underground. After spring, the stem nodes germinate or form buds in the rhizosphere. With the elongation of stem nodes, many fibrous roots grow densely at the base. Growth at seedling stage is slow. After seedling height 10cm, the growth accelerated. When the seedlings grow to 50 cm, they begin to branch. Plants develop in mid-September and no longer grow and branch. It germinates in late September,1blooms in the middle and late October165438+1blooms in the early and middle October for 30-40 days. After winter, the stems and leaves on the ground die, and the underground stems grow in the soil. The next spring, new buds germinated and new plants formed. Generally, mother plants can live for 3-4 years. With the senescence and death of stems, root clusters die one after another. Achene columnar, yellowish brown. The seeds are small, and the 1000-grain weight is only1g. Can germinate at low temperature. Seed vigor can be maintained for 3-4 years under sealed conditions.

(2) Environmental requirements

1. temperature

Chrysanthemum is cold-resistant and warm, and the flowers can withstand slight frost without being hurt. It can grow at 0- 10℃ and is frost resistant. The optimum growth temperature is about 20℃. For example, the annual average temperature in Zhongjiang, the producing area of medicinal chrysanthemum in Sichuan, is about 17℃. However, in the seedling growth period, higher temperature conditions are needed from branching to budding. The temperature is too low, and the plants are stunted, which affects flowering. The flowering period can tolerate the low temperature of -4℃. The underground perennial roots can tolerate the low temperature of-17℃. But at -23℃, the root system was also damaged by freezing.

Step 2: Moisture

Chrysanthemum is slightly drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. With the different stages of growth and development, the requirements for water are different. From seedling stage to pre-bud stage, it is the most vigorous period of plant development and suitable for humid conditions. In case of drought, the development is slow and there are few branches. The flowering period is better under dry conditions. If there is too much rain, the inflorescence will rot due to irrigation, resulting in reduced production.

3. Land

Chrysanthemum has low requirements on soil, and can be cultivated in both dry land and paddy field. But it should be planted in sandy soil with abundant sunshine, good drainage and fertile soil, and the pH value should be in the range of 6-8. Too sticky soil or alkaline soil has poor growth and development, and continuous cropping diseases are serious. Low-lying waterlogged land is not suitable for farming.

lamplight

Chrysanthemums love light. The total sunshine hours in Sichuan chrysanthemum production area are 1, 210-1,230 hours. Only when the short sunshine is below 1.2 hours and the night temperature is around 10℃ can the flower buds differentiate. After artificial shading reduces sunshine hours, it can bloom early. If you shade for a long time, the flowering period can be postponed, but if you shade too much, the number of branches will decrease.

Third, cultivation techniques.

(1) variety

The product names of chrysanthemums vary with the origin and varieties (Table 18— 13).

Table18 ——13 Chrysanthemum Varieties and Characteristics

(2) Breeding methods

There are four propagation methods: rooting, cutting, layering and grafting, but rooting is the most common.

1. Rooting propagation

One is to cover the selected chrysanthemum roots with fertilizer in the field where chrysanthemum is harvested to keep warm for the winter and prevent freezing injury from affecting the survival rate. From April 20th to early May of the following year, when new buds appear, the plants can be transplanted separately.

When dividing plants, dig out the whole chrysanthemum tree, gently shake off the soil, and then separate along the chrysanthemum seedlings. Each seedling should have white roots, the excessively long roots and seedling tops should be cut off, the roots should be 6-7 cm long, and the overground parts should be 16cm long. Chrysanthemum seedlings can be planted per mu 10-30 mu. Dig holes with spacing of 40×30cm, and plant 1-2 plants per hole. The other is to dig out some roots of chrysanthemum after harvest, put them in a place or ditch, cover them with 6 cm of fine soil, and then cover them with some grass or leaves to keep out the cold. Take it out after the first ten days of April in the following spring, with a spacing of 40cm and a depth of 15cm. The root system of ramet propagation is underdeveloped and prone to premature aging. At the flowering stage, most of the leaves have withered, which has a certain impact on flowering, and the flowers are few and small, which is easy to cause variety degradation.

2. Cutting

Cutting time depends on the characteristics of varieties and climatic conditions in different places. Chrysanthemum morifolium, chrysanthemum morifolium and chrysanthemum morifolium in Shanghai suburbs are usually cut in late April, and chrysanthemum morifolium can be cut from late April to early June. Cut healthy new branches without plant diseases and insect pests into cuttings with the length of 10- 13 cm, and cut as you insert. The seedbed should be flat, the suitable temperature should be 15- 18℃, and the soil should not be too dry or too wet. When cutting, all the leaves in the range of 5-7 cm at the lower end of the cutting are picked, and the upper leaves are reserved, and the cutting is inserted into the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm. The top is about 3 cm above the soil surface. Water it and cover it with straw. Take root for about 20 days. In Shanghai and other areas, the "secondary cutting method" is also used to plant Chrysanthemum morifolium, which can delay the transplanting and avoid the rainy season. Because Chrysanthemum morifolium is afraid of water, it is easy to damage the roots and cause rotten roots and dead seedlings when it meets too much water or rain during the cutting period or the early stage of field planting. The method is as follows: the branches are cut off from the new seedlings of winter perennial roots for the first time, and the row spacing is 13cm; when the new seedlings are 20-23 cm high, the branches are taken for the second time, and the row spacing is 8cm, and the seedling height is17-20-23cm, and the seedlings are transplanted for 30-35 days. Cutting propagation has developed root system, strong vitality and long growth period. After entering the flowering period, leaves wither less and flowers are large and many.

(3) transplantation

When cutting chrysanthemum, Huang Ju and Chuju, we should master the seedling age of 40 days and transplant them into the field from late May to early June. Chrysanthemum is transplanted from late May to late July. When cutting for the second time, sowing in early and middle July is the most suitable. It is not good to transplant too late, because the growth period is too short, and in the early years when the cold wave goes south, the buds often don't open at harvest, which affects the yield.

Transplanting should be carried out in cloudy or sunny days, and planting is not allowed in rainy days or when the soil is too wet after rain. When cutting propagation, in case of continuous rainy days and the seedling age has reached, the heads of chrysanthemum seedlings can be cut off and transplanted for a few days. Water the seedbed the day before transplanting, and transplant the seedlings with soil after raising them. Planting density: For those planted before mid-June, the row spacing is 40× 40cm; for those planted in early and mid-July, the row spacing is 33× 26cm, and about 5,500 plants are planted per mu. Digging and planting, planting per hole 1 plant.

(4) Site management

1. Rational fertilization

Chrysanthemum is a fertilizer-loving crop with developed root system, deep buried depth and many fine roots, and strong fertility. However, it is not advisable to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer in the early stage to prevent excessive growth, easy lodging in the later stage, or easy to get sick and reduce production. In the medium term, we should concentrate on fertilization, promote rooting and increase flowering branches. Reasonable application of phosphorus fertilizer can make chrysanthemum flower bud early, blossom early, bud more and yield more. Fertilize in four times. In mid-March, hand in base fertilizer, 5000-7500 kg of river mud per mu, compost 1500 kg, and apply 250-400 kg of diluted human manure when transplanting. The second time was around early May, when chrysanthemum seedlings turned green and survived, 400 kilograms of rare human excrement was applied, which was called seedling-promoting fertilizer. The third time around the end of June, when the plants began to branch, the rotten silkworm excrement was applied, with a weight of 750- 1000 kg per mu, combined with soil cultivation. The fourth time around the end of September, when the chrysanthemums are budding, 5 kilograms of ammonium sulfate is applied per mu. Calcium superphosphate can also be used as topdressing outside the root, 5 kg per mu, and sprayed evenly on the leaves with 2% solution at night to promote more buds, more flowers and thicker petals, and improve yield and quality.

2. intertillage weeding

Chrysanthemum is a shallow-rooted plant, so the intertillage should not be too deep, only 3-5 cm of superficial soil should be loosened, which is beneficial to the growth of chrysanthemum seedlings. In particular, it turns fine after the rain, the soil is hardened and weeds are easy to breed. Generally, it is cultured for 2-3 times, and the first time is about 10 day after transplantation; The second time was in late July; The third time was in early September. In addition, after each heavy rain, in order to prevent soil hardening, a shallow intertillage can be properly carried out.

Step 3 get to the top in time

Topping is one of the key measures to make the main stem of chrysanthemum strong, increase branches, reduce lodging, proliferate flowers and improve yield. Topping is divided into three times, and it should be done on a sunny day. For the first time, one week before the chrysanthemum seedlings are transplanted, the height is about 33cm, and the terminal buds of the main stems are removed by 7-8 cm. The second time around the first ten days of June, when the plant extracts 3-4 new branches with a length of 33cm, the terminal buds of the branches are removed; For the third time, according to the growth of plants, topping should be done before the beginning of July (light summer). In addition, it is necessary to remove the overgrown branches. The chrysanthemum heads removed by topping each time are taken out for field treatment.

4. Cultivate the soil in time

It can keep soil moisture and increase drought resistance. In late June, the soil was cultivated to make plants have more roots and lodging resistance.

5. Drought resistance and drainage

When cutting or transplanting, water should be used to ensure the survival of seedlings, water should be paid attention to when the bud period is dry, and ditches should be cleaned and drained in time in rainy season to prevent water from rotting roots.

(5) Pests and diseases and their control

1. Leaf blight

(Septoria chrysanthemum Sacc. )

Also known as leaf blight. It usually occurs in the middle and late April, which has done harm to chrysanthemum harvest. The lower leaves of the plant are the first to get sick, with round or oval purple-brown spots with different sizes, gray-white center and green periphery, which are brown and round. In the later stage, black spots (conidia of pathogenic bacteria) grow on the diseased leaves. In severe cases, the lesions converge, the leaves turn black and dry, and hang on the stems. When there is more rain from April to September, the condition is serious. Prevention and control methods: after the last chrysanthemum picking, cut off some plants on the ground, collect them and burn them to reduce the source of bacteria; Selecting healthy and disease-free chrysanthemum seedlings and cultivating strong seedlings; Appropriate application of nitrogen fertilizer, ditch drainage after rain, reduce field humidity and reduce injury; At the early stage of the disease, the diseased leaves were removed and alternately sprayed with 1: 1: 100 bordeaux solution and 50% tobrazine 1000 times solution. On sunny days, after dew is dry, spray the medicine once every 7- 10 day for more than 3 consecutive times.

2. Fusarium wilt disease

"Fusarium solani (Mart. )App.et Wollenw】

Commonly known as "rotten roots." It starts from the beginning of June to the beginning of July and ends in165438+1October, especially before and after flowering. The leaves of the affected plants turned purple or yellow-green, and spread from bottom to top, resulting in the death of the whole plant. The roots of diseased plants are dark brown and rot like water stains. There are many underground pests, and the land with low-lying water is prone to disease. Prevention and control methods: select the old roots of disease-free plots to keep seeds; No more planting, raising ridges, digging deep ditches, draining water and reducing humidity; Select strong and disease-free seedlings; Pull out the diseased plants and apply quicklime powder or 50% carbendazim 1000 times water.

3. Downy mildew

(downy mildew of Denmark g? umann)

A layer of gray mold (pathogen sporangium and sporangium) appeared on the damaged leaves. Generally, it occurs after chrysanthemum sprouts in mid-March and ends in early and mid-June. The second attack occurred ten days before 10. When it rains, it spreads quickly, and infected plants die and cannot bloom, which affects yield and quality. Control method: Soak the seedlings in 300-400 times solution of 40% EC for 65438 00 minutes and then plant them; At the onset, 40% shuangyiling 200 times solution or 50% erysipelas 500 times solution can be sprayed for treatment; Implement crop rotation to improve the field management level.

4. Mosaic virus

The diseased plants have yellow-green leaves and are transparent to light. The diseased plants are short or clustered with small branches, few flowers, low yield and poor quality. It takes a long time to cause harm, and aphids are the media.

Prevention and control methods: breeding excellent varieties with disease resistance; Deal with aphids in time to prevent diseases; Spraying agricultural streptomycin solution with concentration of 25-50 ppm after onset.

5.longicorn beetle

(phytophagoides fuscipes)

Also known as the giant tiger. Adults bite the stem tip of chrysanthemum into a circle of small holes and lay eggs in the pith of L-2 cm below the circle, which makes the stem tip lose water and droop easily. After hatching, the larvae feed downward in the stem. Sometimes it breaks at the branch of the bitten stem, and after healing, it becomes a slightly swollen nodule, and the injured branch cannot bloom or the whole branch dies. It has one generation a year, overwinters as an adult in the root, and the host is Compositae 14 species. Control method: cut off the branches laid 3-5 cm below the spawning hole; In the adult stage, in the sunny morning, 5% carbaryl powder 1 time and twice were sprayed on the plants and the ground every five days to remove weeds, and the swollen-legged bees were released for biological control in July.

6. Apple yellow aphid

"Zamboni Mocrosiphoniella sanborni (Gillette)"

During the period from September to June, 5438+ 10, the tender shoots of chrysanthemum were damaged, resulting in damage to flower buds and leaf backs, juice absorption, shrinking leaves and reduced or shrunk flowers. Chrysanthemum aphids occur for more than 20 generations a year. Control methods: remove weeds and avoid continuous cropping and interplanting with compositae plants; Spraying 40% omethoate for 2000 times during the occurrence period, once every 7 days or so, and continuously spraying for 2-3 times.

7. Gall mite

The chrysanthemum area in Tongxiang, Zhejiang Province is called "tumor sore bug" and the suburb of Shanghai is called "chrysanthemum leaf spikelet". Parasitic on chrysanthemum leaves, forming irregular galls, which are grayish white. It usually occurs from the beginning of March to the end of June165438+1October. In severe cases, the whole leaf is covered with galls, which affects the growth and reduces the flower yield. Prevention and control methods: select strong branches or seedlings; Implement crop rotation; Spraying 40% omethoate 2000 times solution and 20% diflubenzuron 800 times solution or spraying 73% propargite 3000 times solution before the early occurrence of galls, and stopping spraying before the end of September to ensure germination.

Others are black gill scarab, green blind stinkbug, Spodoptera litura (Fabricius), Selena RIA Schiffer Mü ller et Denis and Adoxophyes Orana (Fischer von R. Slerstam)], thrips, etc.

Third, harvesting and processing.

(1) Harvest

Chrysanthemums bloom in order, and the petals unfold in the morning and evening of the day, so they need to be harvested in stages. Too early or too late will affect the yield and quality. The standard of flower picking is that the petals are straight, 80% of the flowers are scattered and the color is white. It is usually harvested in sunny days or afternoons after dewdrops are dried. Don't pick dew flowers, lest dew flow into petals, which is not easy to dry and cause rot. Generally, it is picked in three stages, and the headdress flower is harvested 3-4 days before and after the first ten days of 165438+ 10, accounting for about 50% of the total output; The second flower must be picked every 5-7 days, accounting for about 30% of the total output; The third flower will be picked about 7 days after the second flower is picked, accounting for 20% of the total output. If the weather forecast is continuous rain and it is time to pick flowers, it is necessary to pick a batch before it rains to avoid losses. When picking, it should be graded while picking, and the large and small flowers should be separated to facilitate processing and ensure the quality of goods.

When the buds in a field are basically in full bloom and the petals are generally white, you can pick chrysanthemums. When picking, fold the branches at the bifurcation of the flower branches and tie them into sticks at will.

(2) Processing

Tongxiang, the main producing area of Hangju, has always used the method of steaming dried flowers. After harvesting, yellow and white flowers are separated from rotten flowers, and the flowers are thinly spread and dried for half a day to reduce the water content of flowers, especially dew flowers or rain flowers, which must be dried before processing.

The processing steps are cage culture, cooking and sun drying. The method is simple, but highly technical. A slight negligence will affect the color or quality, lower the grade and reduce the income.

1. Upper cage

After picking, put the withered chrysanthemums into a small steamer with a diameter of about 33cm. Generally, the thickness of Sihua is good, about 1.6cm thick. If it is too thick, it is difficult to dry, and the flowers in the middle are prone to mildew and deterioration, thus lowering the product grade.

cook

Put the steamer with arranged chrysanthemums on an iron pot filled with water, one pot and one cage, and the firepower should be even when steaming. Don't put too much water in the basin to prevent boiling water from overflowing and soaking the flowers. You can put four or five pairs of bamboo chopsticks in the pot, and the temperature in the cage should be kept at about 90℃. Steam the flowers once and add water once, and the cooking time is controlled at 3-5 minutes. Too long, too ripe, too short and not ripe, lowering the product grade.

bask

After the chrysanthemum is cooked, pour it on the reed curtain or bamboo curtain to keep the color white and the shape complete. A cage of flowers occupies a position, evenly arranged on the bamboo curtain, turned once after three days of sun exposure, and then placed in a ventilated indoor booth to dry. Don't press anything else on the chrysanthemum, so as not to affect the quality. A week later, collect it for a few days before drying it. After drying, you find wet blocks, so you should pick them out and dry them again. Dried flowers should pay attention to hygiene, and should not be dried in dusty places and beside livestock sheds.

Collecting chrysanthemum, drying in the shade, fumigating with sulfur, and drying in the sun. Hang the branches of Chrysanthemum morifolium upside down under the eaves, under the porch or in a ventilated empty room and dry them in the shade for about 20 days. When dried, take it off and put it in a fumigation room to smoke with sulfur. Put the flowers loosely and shallowly into the basket, do not press them tightly, and do not exceed 3/4 of the basket capacity, so as to facilitate the penetration of sulfur gas, and then smoke them with sulfur in the fumigation room. Generally, it takes 24-36 hours to smoke them continuously, with an average of 65,438+00-65,438+05 kilograms of dried flowers per kilogram of sulfur. Smoked to white, diluted outdoors and dried for one day. If there are too many ashes and broken petals, be sure to sieve them out.

(3) keep the seeds.

Chrysanthemum is propagated by perennial roots, so it is necessary to keep good seed roots and choose fields without pests or slight damage. When chrysanthemum is harvested, the aboveground parts should be cut off in time to remove weeds, that is, the roots should be covered with miscellaneous fertilizers, and the soil should be cultivated to prevent freezing, so as to promote more healthy seedlings in the next spring. If the seedlings need to be transferred, the old roots should be transferred after the chrysanthemum is harvested. Sow the seeds as soon as they arrive, and new seedlings can be sent out for reproduction in the next spring.