There is no cold noodles in Xianxing? Pyongyang's first gourmet cold noodles should be eaten in winter.

Generally speaking, as long as cold noodles are mentioned, people usually think of people who have left North Korea and come to other places, pinning their homesickness on the cold broth of Pyongyang cold noodles and the hot sauce of Xianxing cold noodles.

Cold noodles are the pride of the Korean people, a work that gathers everyone's creativity, and an inherent traditional diet in Korea. Kim Il Sung even asked to keep the cold taste of Liu Yu Pavilion in North Korea.

Why do you eat buckwheat noodles?

Cold noodles are made of buckwheat and have been widely planted since the Song Dynasty. Presumably, it should have been spread to Korea a long time ago and began to be cultivated.

Buckwheat likes a cool and dry environment, and it will grow better on such land. Buckwheat is a kind of crop with good barren tolerance and short growth period, which can be harvested in 60 to 100 days. Therefore, compared with the southern region, it is more suitable for planting in North Korea with poor land and cool weather, or in the plateau area with flat terrain like Pyeongchang.

Buckwheat is used to make noodles, mainly because the ancestors used their wisdom to discover its medicinal ingredients from the experience of eating buckwheat. Regarding the efficacy of buckwheat,

In the Korean era, it was not easy to see a doctor in North Korea, so it was necessary to develop healthy food by using the characteristics of buckwheat. Although the best season to sell cold noodles is summer, there are also records related to cold noodles in the Year of the East 1 1 monthly.

"Use buckwheat noodles to sink cucumbers (radish pickles), fermented grains (cabbage pickles) and pork to make cold noodles, and use miscellaneous vegetables, pears, chestnuts, cows and pigs, and oil sauce to make bone noodles. Kansai noodles are the best. According to this record, the cold noodles in the past are different from the cold noodles we like to eat now. Although all the cold noodles we eat now are beef, pork is recorded in Dongguo Age in the19th century.

From this content, we can also know that it is not a simple matter to seek beef as an ingredient in the Korean era. In the cold winter in North Korea, buckwheat is used to make noodles and eat them with radishes and pickles, especially after drinking.

In the Korean era, making noodles was a very difficult job.

Confucian scholars in the Korean era like to write five-character poems or seven-character poems, some of which are related to cold noodles. Ding Ruoyong of Chashan visited Haizhou with Sui 'an as the examiner there. On his way back to Beijing, he wrote a poem to Ambassador Rui Xingdu in a playful mood, which completely presented the chill of eating cold noodles in winter.

Ruixing protects Tai Hansheng,

Selling prostitutes in crooked houses is like parrots in cages.

Gold-rimmed bamboo bag,

Prostitutes burn amorous feelings.

Ten miles of snow in Xiguan are full of feet,

Pay back the account, retain the customer,

Like a warm hat, the deer is red,

Hold on to the cold noodles.

As you can know from the poem, at that time, roe deer meat was used to make hot pot, and radish and kimchi were added to the cold noodles to eat together. Since we have mentioned the poem Noodles and Zhangzi, let's introduce an interesting record describing the friendship between Cui Ying and Li Chenggui in A Record of the Korean Dynasty.

When the King of Qi was in office, Cui Ying would break into a furious rage and reprimand if someone mentioned framing Li Chenggui in front of Cui Ying. It can be seen from the following that they have a very deep friendship.

..... Every time I entertain a guest, I will call Mao and say, "I prepare noodles and meat. 」

Mao said, "promise. 」

One day, Taizu led his men to hunt, and one of them came down from Gaoling. The terrain is so steep that all soldiers are not allowed to get off. They stumbled out from the foot of the mountain and gathered again. Suddenly, they heard the sound of a big whistle whistling. From top to bottom, they looked up, and it was Taizu who went straight down from the ridge, and walked far away with great speed. He was right in front of the camera and died in his words in Yingying. Yingying enjoyed the audience for a long time.

The first volume of Shi Mao Record is the seventy-third record of the book.

As can be seen from this record, because it was a self-sufficient era, people had to hunt the dishes on the table by themselves. On the cooked noodles, add the elastic white meat slices made by the roe deer that Mao just caught, which is a food that is difficult for modern people to eat.

In the story, Cui Ying is responsible for preparing noodles. Although I don't know if the noodles he prepared are cold noodles, in the Korean era, if you want to make cold noodles, you must first knead buckwheat dough and then make noodles. The procedure is quite troublesome and can be said to be an arduous task.

If you want to make cold noodles slightly thicker than silk thread, you must have a "noodle press". In Xu Youxiu's encyclopedia "Chronicle of Garden Economy", there are records about flour mills.

The content is as follows: "First, drill a round hole with a diameter of four to five inches in the middle of the big log, cover the hole with iron wire, and then drill countless small holes at the bottom. Then fix this noodle press in a large iron pot, put the dough into the lever, and the pressed noodles will fall into the boiling water in the iron pot one by one. 」

Squeezing noodles out of the dough press is a very hard job. After the civilized period, Ji Jungen took various customs as the theme and left many genre paintings. One of his works is called Suppressing Noodles. How hard it is to suppress noodles, which consumes a lot of manpower, can be seen in this painting.

In the picture, a person climbs up a ladder, as if trying his best to press it down, so that the noodles put into the machine can be pressed into noodles. The birth of noodles is really hard-won. Later, in 1932, Jin Guihong, director of Jingang Iron Works in Zhouxian County, South Hamgyong Province, invented the mechanical cold noodle making machine, which made great contributions to the popularization of cold noodles.

There is no cold noodles in Xianxing? Is the place of origin sashimi?

As mentioned earlier, Hong, who wrote "The Story of the Dongguo Times", also listed Pyongyang cold noodles made in Kansai as the first delicious food. But no matter how to find it, I can't find the relevant records of cold noodles in Guanbei area, that is, Xianxing cold noodles. Just as there is no slag river in China, it is strange that the cold noodles in Xianxing are not Xianxing. Even if I go to Xianxing now, I can't find a place to sell Xianxing cold noodles.

The truth of the matter is that the noodles made of potatoes in Xianxing area were originally called starch noodles (bean jelly). After the February 25th War, Xianxing people who were displaced by the war lived in sokcho and sold noodles in the name of Xianxing cold noodles.

In addition, tourists in Xianxing mainly provide dried aquatic products to the middle market in Wuzhuangdong, so this kind of cold noodles spread all over the country through this market. In Xianxing area, a kind of plaice sashimi, which is often caught in the sea, is eaten together with noodles. This kind of noodles is called sashimi mixed noodles, not salty cold noodles.

People who have left their hometown made starch noodles that Xianxing often eats, that is, noodles made of potato starch, which is more biting than Pyongyang cold noodles made of buckwheat, and then added Chili powder with the memory of sashimi noodles as seasoning to remove the fishy smell of sashimi, thus developing spicy and strong cold noodles.

Originally, the name was just sashimi noodles, but in order to compare it with Pyongyang cold noodles, people called it Xianxing cold noodles because it was developed by people who escaped from Xianxing.

The sashimi noodles they ate were fresh flounder just caught from the sea, made into sashimi and mixed with sauce. The spicy sauce is chewed. Taste it with sashimi and a little fish bones. You must order it.

After the taste of starch noodles reappeared in Korea, sweet potato starch, which is abundant in Jeju Island and other places, was gradually used instead of potato starch. The raw sole fish originally used has also been changed to the spotted sole, which is abundant in the south. Although the ingredients are different, they are more delicious than the cold noodles eaten in North Korea and have become a dish that Xianxing people are proud of.

Cold noodles that Chunzu and Gaozong like.

Kings of North Korea also like to eat cold noodles, especially Chunzu and Gaozong left anecdotes related to cold noodles. Li Yuyuan, who was in charge of state affairs during the Emperor Gaozong period, wrote a collection of poems, Notes under the Forest? Stories about Chunming recorded anecdotes about Chunzu and cold noodles.

Briefly explain its content, to the effect that Chunzu often enjoys the moon with military attache and propaganda officer. It is said that Chunzu wanted to eat cold noodles with them one night, so he asked them to buy cold noodles. But one of them bought pork, and Chunzu asked him why he bought pork. The other party replied that he wanted to eat cold noodles.

So when Chunzu sends cold noodles, he only gives them to others, not to people who buy pork. He also told others, "He just needs to eat something else. Through this record, we can not only know that Chunzu likes to eat cold noodles, but also know that some people will eat pork together in cold noodles. In addition, we can also observe from the dialogue what kind of benchmark Chunzu uses to judge the character of a courtier.

In addition, there is a well-known story that Emperor Gaozong took cold noodles as a special dish. In the story told by the Jin family in Sanzhutang, the eighth palace, the cold noodles that the emperor loved were once served. The cold noodles that Gao Zong likes to eat are characterized by adding a lot of water pears and pickled radish soup, and adding sliced meat, water pears and pine nuts as decorations.

Jin Mingji Shanggong, who worked beside Yin Shi, the last queen of the Korean Empire, introduced the cold noodles that Gao Zong liked in her book Around Le Shanzhai published in her later years. According to her instructions, the cold noodles eaten by Emperor Gaozong will be decorated with ingredients, the meat slices will be placed in the middle in the shape of a cross, and the rest of the space will be filled with pears and pine nuts. Water pears must be sliced with a spoon to make them take on the shape of a crescent moon.

If a large banquet is held in the court, pasta will never be absent, but the dishes of pasta are mostly warm noodles. However, after studying the documents such as "The Ceremony of Entering the Basket" and "The Ceremony of Joining the Knight", scholars found that 1848, when Xian Zong entered the banquet in the 14th year, and 1873, at the banquet held after the reconstruction of Jingfu Palace, which was destroyed by the fire in Kangning Hall, it was confirmed that there was a cold face on the menu.

According to scholars' investigation, buckwheat noodles, beef breasts, pork legs, Chinese cabbage and pickles, pears, honey and pine nuts were used in 1848 cold noodles. In addition, 1873 used buckwheat noodles, pork legs, pickles, pears, Chili powder and pine nuts for cold noodles. It can be seen that the cold noodles eaten by the court generally belong to Pyongyang-style cold noodles, and in 1873, Chili powder was added to the cold noodles, and the taste became spicy.

In addition, the cold noodles introduced in The Book of History and Quan Yi are very similar to those eaten by Emperor Gaozong. "Add refreshing radish slices and pickles or delicious radish pickles soup, pour some honey on it, then cut all three ingredients, namely beef breast, water pear and pickled whole cabbage pickles, into filaments, put them on cold noodles as decoration, and finally sprinkle with Chili powder and pine nuts to enhance fragrance. The only difference is that beef breast is used instead of pork.

With the popularity of cold noodles, the meat pieces placed on cold noodles have also been replaced with pork. 19 10 After the * * * of the Korean Empire was deprived, ladies-in-waiting and skilled workers who moved out of the court opened restaurants outside in order to make a living according to the cooking methods they learned in the court, the most representative of which was the Yue Ming Pavilion. In "What Women Must Know", the cold noodles provided by Yue Ming Pavilion are briefly introduced.

"Put the noodles in the radish pickle soup, and then cut the white radish, water pear, grapefruit and pork into thin slices. Fried eggs are made into shredded eggs, placed on cold noodles as decoration, and finally seasoned with peppers, pears and pine nuts. This is the so-called' moon restaurant cold noodles'. It can be seen from this record that pork has been used for cold noodles after its popularization.

There are also a lot of records about cold noodles in the documents of Japanese imperialist occupation. In addition, after the 20th century 10, the Japanese invented the seasoning "Wei Zhengsu (Wei)", which also made Pyongyang's cold noodles delicious. Cold noodles in this period are divided into summer cold noodles and winter cold noodles, and even their respective cooking methods are introduced.

A cold story alone is enough to write a heavy book, and it is difficult to write all the cold stories on a limited page. If we want to sort it out simply, we can probably draw the conclusion that cold noodles are the ancestor of Pyongyang's cold noodles. Even in the Korean era, it was a favorite dish from the king down to the people. It is an inherent traditional food in Korea.