Xu Hongzu’s Diary of Traveling to Huangshan Mountain in Classical Chinese

Diary of a Visit to Huangshan (Part Two)

[Ming Dynasty] Xu Hongzu

On the third day of September in Wuwu, I left Baiyue Langmei Temple and arrived at Taoyuan Bridge. From the lower right side of the small bridge, it is very steep, which is the old road to Huangshan. Seventy miles away, Sujiang Village.

Fifteen miles on the fourth day of the lunar month, we arrived at Tangkou. After five miles, we arrived at Tang Temple and bathed in the soup pool. Holding a stick and looking at Cinnabar Monastery, he climbed up. Ten miles away, go up to Huangnigang. The peaks in the clouds gradually emerged, and gradually fell to the bottom of my staff. Turning into the stone gate, crossing the threat of Tiandu and coming down, the tops of Tiandu and Lotus both appear half way up the sky. There is a Qiqi on the road going up to the east, which is something that has never been seen before. Then it goes straight up, almost reaching the side of Tiandu. Go north again and walk among the rocks. The stone peaks are picked up piece by piece, and the road twists and turns among the stones. The blockers are cut out, the steep ones are graded, the broken ones are connected by wooden structures, and the hanging ones are connected by planting ladders. Looking down, the steep ravine is dark and gloomy, with maples and pines alternating with five colors, as bright as a picture. Because I have thought about Mount Huangshan for a lifetime of wonders, and there are wonders like this that I have never explored before, so I feel ashamed to travel quickly!

After my husband and his servants blocked the dangerous journey, I couldn't stop. The wonderful scenery along the way unknowingly led me to go alone. After reaching the top of the peak, there is a nunnery, which is Wenshu Monastery. There are also those who wanted to climb but have not yet climbed. Tiandu on the left, lotus on the right, leaning against a jade screen on the back, the beauty of the two peaks can be lifted by hand. Looking around you are surrounded by strange peaks and ravines, which is truly the most beautiful place in Mount Huangshan! Unless you come again, how can you know how strange it is? When he met the traveling monk Chengyuan, he became very brave. It was past noon, and the slaves arrived and stood in front of the nunnery to point out the two peaks. The monk said: "Although Tiandu is close but there is no road, the lotus can be climbed but the road is far away. It is better to get close to Tiandu and climb to the top of the lotus tomorrow." I refused and decided to visit Tiandu. Carrying Chengyuan and Nuzi, we still went down the Xia Road to the Tiandu side. We snaked up from the flowing stones, climbed the grass and pulled the thorns. If the rocks were piled up, we would break them. If the stone cliffs were cut sideways, we would support the cliffs. Whenever there is no place for his hands and feet to rest, Chengyuan must first climb up and connect. If this is the case every time I think about it, how can I be so embarrassed below? Never mind. After several adventures, we reached the top. The only stone on the top wall rises several tens of feet. Chengyuan looked at the side of it, found the level, and climbed it with his hands. Tens of thousands of peaks are all crouching down, and only the lotus flower can resist the ear. At that time, the thick fog was half coming, and every time it came, the other side was nowhere to be seen. Looking at the lotus peaks, most of them are in the mist. If you go to the capital of heaven alone, if you go in front of it, the fog will move behind; if you cross it to the right, the fog will move to the left. Some of its pines are straight and straight, and although their cypress trunks are as big as arms, they are all as flat as moss on the stones. The mountains are high and the wind is strong, and the fog comes and goes indefinitely. Looking down at the peaks, when they appear they are blue mountains, and when they disappear they are silver seas. Looking down the mountain again, the sun shines brightly, making it a different place. It was getting dusk, so he put his feet forward and his hands behind his back to rest on the ground, then sat down and took off his clothes. At the critical point, Chengyuan stood shoulder to shoulder and held hands. After overcoming the danger, we descended to the mountain col, where the darkness had already closed. From the gorge to the top of Duzhan, it ends at Wenshu Monastery.

At dawn on the fifth day of the lunar month, walking two miles north from the middle of Tiandu Peak Col, I saw a jagged stone wall. Below it, the Lotus Cave is facing the stalagmites in the front pit, a quiet place. Farewell to Chengyuan, go down the mountain to the side of Qianqi Road and head towards Lianhua Peak. Along the way to the west along the dangerous wall, if you go up again, you will go down a hundred steps of the ladder, and there is a way to reach the Lotus Peak. Once it's overturned, it's gone, and then it's doubtful and then it's down again. A monk across the peak shouted: "This is the true lotus path!" The stone gap was cut from the side of the stone slope. The diameter is small and steep. The top of the peak is full of huge rocks and is as hollow as a room. From there, there are stacks of steps going straight up, and the steps turn into narrow holes and twists and turns. As you go up to the pavilion, you forget that it is so steep that it goes out of the sky. One mile away, I found a thatched cottage, leaning against a stone crevice. Just as he was wandering about to ascend, the monk who called out to him arrived. The monk's name is Lingxu, and those who form a twig here will use the handles to hold the top of the mountain. There is a stone on the top, hanging two feet apart. The monk takes a ladder to reach it, and the top is clearly visible. Looking around, the sky is blue, even the sky is bowing its head. Gaishi Peak is located among the Huangshan Mountains, and stands alone among other peaks. It is surrounded by towering rock walls. When encountering the bright colors of the morning sun, it is reflected in layers, making people scream and dance.

After a long time, when he returned to the thatched hut, Lingxu took out porridge and sipped a bowl. Then go down to the side of Qi Road, pass through Dabei Peak, and go up to Tianmen. Three miles to the alchemy platform. Walking down from the mouth of the platform, you can see the jade screen and the peaks of Sanhaimen, all rising from the middle wall of the deep dock. Its Dantai hangs down in the middle of a hill, which is not particularly steep. However, when you look at the back of Cuiwei, the peaks in the middle of the dock are staggered and reflected above and below. After returning to Pingtian, go down to Houhai and enter Zhikong nunnery. Three miles away, I went down to the lion forest, where I walked toward the stalagmites, and then on the pinnacle that I climbed to Xiangnian, I sat down against a pine tree. Looking at the peaks of Wuwu where the rocks are piled up and covered with algae, I realize that Kuanglu and Shimen are either integrated or missing one side, and they are not as magnificent as this Hongbo! After a long time, while looking up at Yin Cliff and down at the dock, I felt a strange feeling. Returning to the side of the sharp peak on the hillock, we trampled on the flowing stones and supported the thorn grass, and followed the pit down, getting deeper and deeper. The peaks cover each other and cannot be seen at a glance. At dusk, return to the Lion Forest.

On the sixth day of the lunar month, I bid farewell to the glow and walked down from the mountain pit to the Prime Minister. Seven miles to Baisha Ridge. When Xiaguang came back, I wanted to see the archway stone, but I was afraid that someone without a finger in Baisha Temple would chase me to guide me. So the same as the upper ridge, pointing to the right side of the ridge across the slope, there are clusters of stones, the lower part is divided and the upper part is merged, which is the archway stone. I want to cross the pit and go back to the stream, and go straight down. The monk said: "There is no way to go through the thorny maze. If this pit goes straight down to the Prime Minister's Plain, there is no need to go back to this ridge; if you want to go from the fairy lamp, it is better to go east of this ridge." I followed him and followed the ridge of the ridge. OK. The ridge stretches across Tiandu and the north of Lianhua. It is so narrow that there is no room for footwear. It is flanked by high peaks in the north and south. From the end of the ridge to the north, look up at the Arhat Stone on the right peak, with its round head and bald head, just like two monks. Go down to the pit, cross the stream and go up for four miles, and climb to the Fairy Lantern Cave. The cave faces south, facing the Yin of Tiandu. The monk's pavilion is connected to the outside, but the inside is still like a sky, and the beauty of heaven is not exhausted. Return to the south for three miles and pass the Prime Minister's Plain, where you will find a patch of land in the mountains. The nunnery is quite neat, and there is nothing strange about it, but I can't even enter it. Walking southward along the mountainside for five miles, gradually descending, the sound of springs in the stream is boiling, and it flows down nine levels between the rocks. At the bottom of each level, there is a deep blue pool, which is called Jiulongtan. There are no hanging waterfalls in Huangshan Mountain, but this is the only one. Go down another five miles, pass Kuzhutan, turn to Taiping County Road, and head northeast.

——Selected from the punctuated edition of "Xu Xiake's Travels" by Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House

Translation:

On the third day of September in the forty-sixth year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty, our group left Baidu. From Yueshan Langmei Temple, when you arrive at Taoyuan Bridge, go down from the right side of the small bridge. The mountain road is extremely steep. This is the road you took when you visited Huangshan Mountain last time. Walk forward seventy miles and stay overnight in Jiangcun.

On the fourth day of the Lunar New Year, we walked fifteen miles to Tangkou. After another five miles, we came to Tang Temple, took a bath in the soup pool, and then climbed towards Zhusha Temple with a walking stick. After walking for ten miles, I climbed up Huangnigang. The peaks that were originally obscured by clouds and mist gradually emerged, and then gradually fell under my walking stick. Turn into Shimen and pass halfway down the mountainside of Tiandu Peak, where you will see the two peaks of Tiandu and Lotus, both standing in the air with beautiful and heroic postures. There is a fork in the road heading eastward, but it is a place that has not been reached in the past, so we go straight up and almost reach Tiandu Peak. Go further north and climb through the rock gaps. I saw peaks and rocks rising up one by one on both sides. The mountain path twists and turns among the rocks. If it encounters a rock obstruction, it will be dug through it. If the cliff is steep, stone steps will be built. If it encounters a broken wall, it will be built with wooden bridges. , when you encounter a cliff, put up a ladder to pick it up. Looking down at the lonely and steep valley, it is a gloomy place, with maple trees and pine trees intertwined and colorful, as brilliant as paintings and brocades. Therefore, I think that Huangshan is worthy of being a wonder that I have seen in my life, and it is so strange that I have never explored it in the past. It is not only a pleasure to visit again this time, but also a feeling of shame.

At this time, all the porters and servants were lagging behind due to the dangerous mountain road, and I stopped going up. But the wonderful scenery along the way unknowingly attracted me to go alone. After climbing to the top of the mountain, you can see the eaves of a Buddhist temple like a bird spreading its wings, which is Wenshu Monastery. This is also a place I wanted to visit last time but didn’t. On the left side of Wenshu Monastery is Tiandu Peak, on the right is Lotus Peak, and on the back is Yuping Peak. The beautiful scenery of Tiandu and Lotus Peaks is just within reach. Looking around, we can see a staggered arrangement of strange peaks and numerous criss-crossing valleys. This is indeed the most fascinating place in Huangshan Mountain. If I hadn’t visited again this time, how would I have known that Huangshan was so magical? It happened that Yunyou monk Chengyuan arrived, and you were very happy. It was past noon when the servants came up. Everyone stood in front of Wenshu Monastery, pointing to the two peaks on the left and right. The monk in the temple said: "Although Tiandu Peak is close, there is no way to climb it. Lotus Peak can be climbed but the journey is far away. I have to look at Tiandu Peak nearby and climb to Lotus Peak tomorrow." I didn't want to listen and decided to climb it. When traveling to Tiandu Peak, I still walked down the mountain gorge path with Chengyuan and his servant in between, and arrived at Tiandu Peak. Then he crawled up from the rocks flowing by the impact of the stream, or grabbed the weeds, or pulled the thorns, climbed over the clusters of rocks, and climbed up the sharp cliffs. Every time he reached a place where even his hands and feet could not reach, Chengyuan Always be the first to board, and then take care of you. Every time I think about how hard it is to go up the mountain, how can it be even easier to go down the mountain? But in the end I couldn’t care less. After several hardships, we finally reached the top of Tiandu Peak. I saw a cliff stone rising upright like a cut wall on the top, about dozens of feet high. Chengyuan looked at its side and found stone steps, so he helped me climb them. All I saw were thousands of mountains and ridges prostrating themselves beneath it, with only Lotus Peak standing up to it. At this time, the thick fog came and went, and every time it drifted over, you couldn't even see the other side. Looking at Lotus and other mountain peaks from a distance, most of them are submerged in clouds and mist. Only when I climbed Tiandu Peak, I walked to the front of the peak, and the clouds and mist moved to the back of the peak. When I came to the back of the peak, the clouds and mist moved to the left of the peak. There are also pine trees growing tall and zigzag in a criss-cross pattern on the top of the peak. Although the cypress trees are as big as arms, they are all flat on the cliffs and rocks, like moss. The mountains are high, the wind is fierce, and the fog is erratic. Looking down at the mountain peaks, the green spiers are revealed for a while, and then submerged into a sea of ??silver. Looking down the mountain again, I saw the sun was shining brightly, as if it was a whole other world. Dusk gradually fell, so everyone stretched their legs forward, put their hands behind their backs on the ground, and sat down to slide down. When they reached the most dangerous place, Cheng Yuan used his hands and shoulders to help. After crossing the dangerous zone and descending to the mountain col, night has enveloped the earth. Then climb the plank road from the mountain gorge and stay at Wenshu Monastery.

At dawn on the fifth day of the lunar month, we walked two miles north from the Tiandu Peak Mountain Col. The stone walls here were deep. The Lotus Cave below it is opposite to the stalagmites in the front pit, and the mountain col is extremely quiet. Say goodbye to Chengyuan, go down the mountain to the fork in front, and head towards Lotus Peak. Along the way, we walked west along the dangerous cliffs. After going up and down many times, when we were about to descend the hundred-step ladder, we found a way to go straight up to Lotus Peak. After climbing up, I couldn't find the stone steps. I had doubts, so I climbed down again. A monk from across the peak shouted loudly: "This is the way to climb Lotus Peak!" So he walked through the stone gap from the side of the stone slope. The mountain road was narrow and steep. The top of the peak was full of huge rocks standing in opposition to each other, and the middle was empty like a house. From the middle, the stone steps go straight up, and the steps turn into caves, twists and turns, as if you are walking up and down in a pavilion. You almost forget that it is towering in the sky. After walking about a mile, I saw a thatched hut leaning among the rocks. When he was hesitating to go up to the top of the mountain, he saw the monk who had just shouted directions coming. The monk's name is Lingxu, and he has a thatched nunnery here. So we climbed to the top arm in arm with him. There was a rock on the top, hanging two feet in the air. Lingxu moved a ladder and climbed up. The top of the mountain was very empty. Looking around, the sky is blue, and even Tiandu Peak seems to have its head lowered. Because this peak is located in the Huangshan Mountains, towering independently above the other peaks, surrounded by rock walls. When the sun rises and the weather is clear, the layers of peaks reflect bright colors, making people scream with joy, and it is so graceful. dance.

After staying at the peak for a long time, we returned to Mao'an. Monk Lingxu brought out porridge to entertain me, and I drank a bowlful of it.

So we went down to the fork in the road, passed the Great Bei Peak, and climbed to the Tianmen. Walk about three miles further to reach the alchemy platform. Walking down the platform entrance, you can see peaks such as Yupingfeng and Sanhaimen, all of which rise from the deep valley like walls. The alchemy platform stands vertically among the mountains, without any sense of strangeness or steepness. Just looking down at the back of Cuiwei Peak, the peaks in the mountain dock are intertwined, and the upper and lower sides complement each other. You can't fully appreciate the wonders of the mountain scenery except here. Returning through Pingtianxi, went to Houhai, entered the Buddhist temple presided over by monk Zhikong, and said goodbye to him. After walking for three miles, we descended into the Lion Forest and walked toward the stalagmites. We reached the pinnacles we had visited in the past and sat down with our backs against the pine trees. Looking down at the mountain dock, the peaks and rocks are clustered around each other, and the scenery is as beautiful as a brocade. I feel that Lushan Mountain and Shimen Mountain may only have a certain shape of Huangshan, or they may lack a certain aspect of Huangshan, and are not as grand as Huangshan. Gorgeous. After watching it for a long time, I climbed onto Jieyin Cliff. Looking down into the mountain dock, I felt that it was eerie and strangely strange. Returning to the peak on the hill, I stepped on the sliding stones and held the thorns and weeds with my hands as I descended down the pit, getting deeper and deeper. The peaks obscured each other, making it impossible to see the end at a glance. After the sun went down, we returned to the Lion Forest.

On the sixth day of the lunar month, we bid farewell to Monk Xiaguang and descended from the mountain pit in the direction of Prime Minister Yuan. After walking seven miles, we came to Baisha Ridge. Monk Xiaguang arrived later. Because I wanted to see the archway stone, he was worried that no one would lead the way at Baisha Temple, so he chased me to guide me. So they climbed up to Baisha Ridge together. Xiaguang pointed to the hillside on the right side of the ridge on the opposite side. There were clusters of rocks standing there. The lower part was separated and the upper part was closed. He said that it was the archway stone. I wanted to cross the pit, go up the mountain stream, and then go straight down. Xiaguang said: "The thorns cover the road and the mountain road is blocked, so it must be inaccessible. If you go straight down from the mountain pit to the Prime Minister's Plain, there is no need to go up this ridge; if you want to go from the Fairy Deng Cave, it is better to go east from here." I listened to him. views, walking along the ridge. Baisha Ridge stretches across the north side of Tiandu and Lotus Peaks. It is extremely narrow and cannot even accommodate a foot on the roadside. The north and south sides are full of high mountains and ridges. When we reach the end of Baisha Ridge, we head north and look up at the Luohan Stone on the peak on the right. They have round heads and bald heads, just like two monks. Descend into the mountain pit, go up the mountain stream, and walk four miles to the fairy lantern cave. The entrance of the cave faces south, directly facing the north of Tiandu Peak. The monks built a plank road outside the cave, but the inside of the cave is still broad and deep, maintaining its natural interest. Walking further south for three miles, you will pass the Prime Minister's Plain, which is just a narrow flat land in the mountains. There was a Buddhist temple that was built quite neatly. Looking around, there was nothing unusual about it, so I finally didn’t go inside. After walking south for five miles along the mountainside, and gradually descending the mountain, I suddenly heard the noisy sound of spring water coming from the mountain stream. The spring water flows down from the rocks in nine levels. Under each level there is a deep and green pool, which is the so-called Jiulong Pool. Apart from this pool, there are no other hanging waterfalls in Huangshan. Go down the mountain for another five miles, pass by Kuzhutan, then turn and follow the road in Taiping County, heading northeast.