The Historical Development of Cheongsam

The Historical Development of Cheongsam

In daily study, no matter what you learn, you need to master some knowledge points. Knowledge point is the smallest unit of knowledge and the most specific content, sometimes called "test center". Mastering knowledge points will help everyone to study better. The following are the knowledge points of the historical development of cheongsam that I have compiled for you, hoping to help you.

The Historical Development of Cheongsam

The ancestors of cheongsam can be traced back to Manchu people living outside the customs. This kind of "cheongsam" is connected from top to bottom, with round neck, wide front and back, long hem and narrow sleeves, which can be worn by both men and women, but the women's "cheongsam" is decorated with embroidery in some details. After becoming a court costume, cheongsam has become more and more exquisite and complicated in decoration and accessories. It was not until 1929 that the government announced that cheongsam was officially designated as the national costume.

Historical origin

Under the interweaving of nationality, concept, custom and fashion, the evolutionary history of cheongsam is full of tension in the process of cultural collision and blending.

The ancestors of cheongsam can be traced back to Manchu people living outside the customs. This kind of "cheongsam" is connected up and down, with round neck, wide front and back, long hem and tight sleeves, which can be worn by both men and women-only the "cheongsam" worn by women has embroidery decoration on the collar, front and cuffs. The unusually cold weather outside the customs and the nomadic lifestyle of riding and shooting are all important factors that give birth to this kind of warm and comfortable clothing. 1644, cheongsam entered Beijing with Manchu rulers. At that time, Manchu people were called "standard bearers", so the robes they wore were called "cheongsam".

After cheongsam became a court costume, its decoration and accessories became more and more exquisite and complicated. When court women wear cheongsam, they often wear a bun called "big wings" and a flag shoe called "flowerpot bottom". Dressed like this, the flag girl is getting slimmer and more graceful. However, the cheongsam at this time is far from the modern reference cheongsam in style, cutting and decoration.

According to the regulation of "ten obedience and ten disobedience" in Qing dynasty, Han women were not allowed to wear flag clothes at that time. Compared with the strict regulations of the Qing court on Manchu costumes for Han men, Han women have the freedom not to wear flag clothes. However, the change of dress customs often changes subtly with the change of social fashion. During the more than 300 years of Manchu rule, the costumes of Manchu and Han women have quietly merged in each other's vision and imitation, and there are many similarities in style and style.

Until 19 10, after the demise of the Qing dynasty, after a short silence, the flag dress quietly appeared on Han women. As early as 19 13, Han women wearing cheongsam appeared on the streets of Shanghai and other places. It is said that the earliest Han women wearing cheongsam were a group of Shanghai female students. They walked in the street in blue cheongsam, which aroused the envy of women from all walks of life. At the beginning of the 20th century, female students represented the image of free and liberated women, and their behavior and dress often became the vane of social fashion, so the cheongsam they wore became a symbol of civilization and fashion, attracting women from all walks of life to follow suit.

192 1 year, cheongsam became popular among women in Shanghai, and then quickly spread to all walks of life in China, gradually becoming the daily dress of exclusive women. In the modern sense, cheongsam is a Shanghai-style cheongsam based on flag dress and widely absorbs western-style cutting techniques. Shanghai has become the birthplace of cheongsam.

1929 "Regulations on Clothing System of the Republic of China" stipulates that cheongsam is officially designated as the national service, that is, the national service. There are two kinds of women's clothes, one is a blue blouse and a black skirt, and the other is a long cheongsam. To standardize cheongsam in the form of government regulations is enough to show that cheongsam has conquered China women with its unique charm in just over ten years. From then until the end of 1940s, cheongsam once became the "national costume" of China and the most important daily dress for women in China.

Style change

At the beginning of the popularity in the 1920s, the style of cheongsam was quite different from that of Manchu flag dress, with the decoration from complicated to simple, and the style from generous to moderate. The length of the robe is shortened to between the knee and ankle; The sleeves are slightly tightened and shortened, revealing a wrist; The collar was also influenced by Han women, and once became a "high-necked ingot", and then gradually became shorter. From 1926 to 1927, the hem height of cheongsam is relatively moderate, and the cuffs absorb the characteristics of "civilized new clothes" and are cut into inverted sleeves to expose women's arms to a greater extent. During the Great Revolution, women showed their individuality in the trend of liberation. Influenced by social atmosphere and popular short skirts in Europe and America, its style and decoration change more boldly. The hypocycloid of cheongsam is raised to the knee, and the cuffs begin to get smaller. 1928, decorative inlays became more and more concise and even disappeared. The cheongsam of female students has been improved by one inch on the basis of the previous one, so that the youthful and fit calves are exposed. Female students wear this style of cheongsam, and even playing ball games and cycling are not hindered. By the end of the1920s, the cheongsam began to shrink its waist, and its figure gradually fitted, boldly revealing the beautiful and moving curves of women.

The 1930s was the heyday of the development of cheongsam, and the improvement of cheongsam was the mainstream of cheongsam in this period. 10 years, cheongsam was colorful and varied in style. The collar, sleeves, hem and split have all changed under the influence of fashion: high collar, low collar, no collar before fashion; Long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves all show their beauty; The length of cheongsam, long mopping the floor at the edge of the dress, short exposing the knees and even thighs, has reached the extreme. European and American pop elements appeared in turn, with colorful fabrics and dazzling accessories, showing the most gorgeous era in the history of cheongsam development.

In the early 1930s, the length of cheongsam followed the style of the 1920s. Short cheongsam was popular, with the hem slightly above the knee, but 1932 began to lengthen until the hem of the dress mopped the floor. This is mainly because high-heeled shoes became popular among urban women around 1932. This kind of leather shoes from Europe and America with cheongsam has changed the fashion trend of cheongsam. It turns out that the cycloid below has been improved into a fashionable cheongsam, which lengthens the hem of the cheongsam to increase the beauty of high heels and make women look slender and sexy. By 1934, the length of cheongsam can cover the foot surface. This kind of "sweeping cheongsam" is mostly high-necked, with three buttons, and the collar is as high as the chin, even in hot summer. With the lengthening of cheongsam, the slit of cheongsam is higher and higher. To 1934, almost to the ass, walking at first glance appeared jade legs. 1935, cheongsam became popular again, and the slit only reached the calf, but the robe body was still very long. Wearing this style of cheongsam, sitting looks subtle and generous, walking looks elegant and slow, but walking is inconvenient. 1937 when War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression broke out, women from all walks of life actively participated in the anti-Japanese national salvation movement. In order to facilitate walking, the robe body is shortened year by year, the split is gradually raised, and the sleeves become slender and fit.

In addition, that period was also an extremely rich era of cheongsam fabrics. A large number of imported textiles, from all kinds of silks and satins to cotton, woolen cloth and leno. Especially after the appearance of hollow fabric, translucent chemical fiber and silk, the "transparent, exposed and thin" cheongsam became popular. Pure and lovely, sexy and dignified, elegant style can be shown in cheongsam. Cheongsam and suit are further combined, and western-style clothing practices are adopted for cutting, including chest saving, waist saving and shoulder pad. At that time, collars and sleeves were popular, with western-style lapels, sleeves with lotus leaf sleeves, split sleeves and ruffled or asymmetrical lace at the hem. It is more fashionable to wear a suit jacket directly outside the cheongsam.

technical characteristics

After the Manchu entered the customs, the cheongsam absorbed a variety of crafts of the Han nationality, and the decoration became more and more complicated. Originally used to protect the neckline, cuffs and hem, plain skirts that are easy to be damaged are gradually embroidered with patterns and become inlays. Three-inlay, three-inlay, five-inlay, five-inlay to "eighteen-inlay", the decorative patterns of court aristocratic women and even the whole dress almost cover up the true colors of their fabrics.

Cheongsam has many detailed technological processes, and the main production processes are "inlay, inlay, rolling, hanging, rolling, pasting, embroidery and painting". That is, edge rolling, edge wrapping, line embedding (strip), strip laying, button rolling, edge sticking, embroidery and painting. These techniques make cheongsam interlocking in every detail and matching at every level, so as to achieve the purpose of smooth lines, fitting the human body and beautiful decoration. The making process of cheongsam is also a process of comprehensive application of traditional techniques in China. These technical secrets inherit and carry forward the essence of China traditional clothing technology. The making of a cheongsam often requires the craftspeople to use the whole process of "inlaying, inlaying, rolling, spreading, sticking, embroidering and painting" to ensure the smooth charm and unified style of the cheongsam. In addition, cheongsam can also be regarded as a model of combining Chinese and western styles in tailoring. Western-style techniques, such as chest saving, waist saving, sleeve fitting and shoulder sewing, are combined with traditional techniques in China, so that cheongsam can not only reflect the subtle and gentle charm of traditional women in China, but also reflect the concise and capable style of modern women.

Qipao etiquette knowledge

When wearing cheongsam, you should pay attention to:

1, the fabric and color of cheongsam should be coordinated with the occasion of dressing. Ordinary cotton cloth and silk brocade make the same style of cheongsam, and the styles will be completely different: one is simple and elegant, the other is gorgeous and noble. When buying cheongsam, you must consider the occasion of wearing it and choose the fabric and color of the corresponding style. The neckline of cheongsam is tightly closed. When buying short-sleeved sleeveless cheongsam in hot weather, it is best to choose comfortable fabrics that absorb sweat and breathe freely.

When choosing cheongsam, you should pay attention to the coordination between the style of cheongsam and your identity. Avant-garde sleeveless or bare-chested cheongsam, as well as ultra-short cheongsam with fur piping and boots, will be particularly outstanding for stars, but it is not suitable for conservative industry workers to wear every day.

3. The neck circumference, neck height, shoulder width, chest circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference of cheongsam should fit. Anything too tight or too loose will greatly reduce the aesthetic feeling and make you uncomfortable to wear.

4. Check all buttons before wearing. If there are buttons with loose stitches, they must be reinforced again before wearing to ensure that the buttons will not fall off when wearing.

5. The overall feeling of the style of cheongsam is "solemnity and sexiness in rigor". If you release the button, you will immediately feel "dust". Therefore, when a lady wears a cheongsam, all buttons of the cheongsam must be buckled no matter what the weather is like. Any unbuttoned button will leave an indelible "frivolous" impression on others.

6. Ankle-high slit cheongsam and ankle-high western-style evening dress have the same effect. Therefore, only in formal dinner or performance occasions, or in hotels, guesthouses and other occasions that require specific Chinese work clothes, women can wear cheongsam with high slit above the middle thigh. The slit of the cheongsam should not be higher than the upper edge of the knee 10 cm during daily work or leisure.

7. It's best to wear pantyhose in cheongsam, so don't worry about socks opening. However, it should be noted that the fabric of cheongsam must be selected without static electricity from stockings.

8. The style of shoes should match the style of cheongsam.

9. Don't expose your underwear. Underwear matching cheongsam should also be carefully selected in style and color, suitable and comfortable, and the outline of underwear should be seamless.

10, when wearing cheongsam, pay special attention to maintaining good manners. Because the shape of cheongsam is very close to the natural curve of women, the indecent standing and sitting posture will be completely exposed to everyone.

Maintenance method of cheongsam

A, clothes washing method:

Before cleaning, we must consider the nature and requirements of the clothes to be washed and choose the type of detergent reasonably. For cotton and linen clothing, its alkali resistance is better. Choosing alkaline detergents such as ordinary soap or ordinary washing powder will not only damage the fiber, but also help to decontaminate.

For silk or woolen clothing, because protein fiber is not alkali-resistant, neutral soap flakes, neutral washing powder or weakly alkaline detergent should be used when washing to avoid fiber damage and affect hand feeling.

For clothes with milk stains, gravy, soy sauce, blood stains, etc., enzyme washing powder should also be used to remove the stains through alkaline protease decomposition.

Second, the clothing maintenance method:

Maintenance of cotton and linen clothes

Generally speaking, cotton and linen clothing is not afraid of crystal exposure, but exposure to the sun for a long time will reduce the wearing fastness, which is especially easy to make the clothing fade or yellow. Therefore, it is necessary to avoid exposure and negative air. During wearing, corrosion and damage caused by acidic solution should be avoided.

Corduroy, velveteen clothing should try to reduce the pressure and grinding of elbows, arms, knees and buttocks to prevent calendering and shedding, and cannot be dried after being polluted by glue and paste, so as not to pull out fluff. It is best to brush suede frequently at ordinary times. After washing, drying and ironing, cotton and linen clothes should be stacked flat, and dark and light clothes should be stored separately. Cotton and linen clothes are easy to absorb moisture, so it is necessary to avoid mildew due to humidity, sultry, poor ventilation and unclean wardrobes, boxes and cabinets.

Maintenance of woolen goods

Wool clothing should be dried in a cool and ventilated place. Exposure to sunlight will cause fading and decrease in luster, elasticity and strength. Thick dark clothes can be dried for a longer time, while thin light clothes can be dried for a shorter time. Don't touch sharp, rough objects and strong alkaline substances when wearing woolen clothes to prevent spinning, fuzzing and corrosion. Wool clothing with felting treatment should also pay attention to reducing friction as much as possible to avoid fluff falling off and revealing shading. Wool clothing should be washed, ironed and aired before collection, and then folded and stored after it is fully dry and cool.

High-grade woolen clothes had better not be hung in the wardrobe, so as not to be deformed and affect the appearance. At the same time, put sanitary balls or camphor tablets wrapped in paper in the pockets, inner pockets and cabinets of clothes to prevent insects from eating. In the process of collection, the cabinet should be properly opened to make it ventilated. In the summer with high humidity and high temperature, it is necessary to dry it several times to prevent mildew. Plush clothes can't be stressed, otherwise the fluff will fall off.

Maintenance of silk clothing

Silk clothing belongs to high-grade clothing, which is generally not suitable for exposure in the sun to avoid fading, strength, feel and luster deterioration. When wearing, be careful not to contact with rough and sharp objects to prevent bumping, alkali, acid and other substances to prevent fiber damage. Tussah should avoid water stains than clothes, otherwise it is difficult to remove. When collecting silk garments, they should be washed, ironed and dried first, preferably folded, wrapped in cloth and put in the cupboard. Hanging on a hanger often makes some silk clothes longer because of their own weight. White or light-colored silk clothing should not be put in sanitary balls and mothballs, nor in mothballs boxes, otherwise it will turn yellow.

Maintenance of chemical fiber clothing

Chemical fiber clothing should not be exposed to the sun for a long time, otherwise it will age and harden, reduce strength, change color or fade. Chemical fiber clothes should be washed, ironed, dried and stacked flat, and should not be hung in the wardrobe for a long time, so as not to make the clothes droop and elongate. Because chemical fiber is generally not moth-eaten and moldy, sanitary balls or camphor tablets can be stored without storage. For example, when storing its blended fabric clothes, a small amount of sanitary balls or camphor tablets should be put in, but they should be wrapped in paper to avoid direct contact with the clothes, because these agents will make the chemical fibers swell and deform, make them sticky and reduce their strength, and even damage the clothes, making them unable to wear. Proper ventilation and air drying are needed to prevent mildew.

Three, cheongsam ironing elements:

Ironing temperature Ironing is heat setting. Different fibers have different structures and properties, so the temperature required for ironing is also different. Too low temperature can't achieve the purpose of heat setting, while too high temperature will damage the fiber, even melt or carbonize. So the ironing of clothes needs a certain temperature control. For blended interwoven fabrics, the ironing temperature should be low or high, that is, according to the ironing temperature of the fiber with the worst heat resistance. The choice of ironing temperature should also consider the thickness and color of its texture. Thick, the ironing temperature can be appropriately higher; Thin, lower ironing temperature. The ironing temperature that is easy to change color should also be reduced appropriately.

Moisture content Usually, when ironing, you should sprinkle some water or spread a layer of wet cloth on the clothes to make the fibers wet, expand and stretch, and quickly enter the predetermined arrangement position with the lubrication of water molecules, and then set them under the action of heat. Tussah silk clothing should not be sprayed with water, otherwise it will be easy to get water stains. Vinylon clothing cannot be sprayed with water, and it is not suitable for ironing with wet cloth. Usually use dry cloth to iron, because vinylon will shrink or even melt when exposed to high temperature in wet state.

;